
■ill 




Book ■ n 4- S i ( o 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSfE 



THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 



The Pure Food Cook Book 



The Good Housekeeping Recipes 
Just How to Buy — Just How to Cook 



Edited by MILDRED MADDOCKS 

Associate Editor of Good Housekeeping Magazine 

Editor of the "Family Cook Book"; ** Every Day Dishes"; " Brosia 

Meal Cook Book" 



■ ? ■ I 



With an Introduction and Notes on Food and Food Values by 

HARVEY W. WILEY, M.D. 




Over 70 Illustrations 



HEARST'S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY CO. 

NEW YORK 1914 



Copyright, 1Q14, by 
Hearst's International Library Co., Inc. 



TX7^5 



All rights reserved, includmg the trans- 
lation into foreign languages, including 
the Scandinavian. 



SEP 30 1914 



CI,A379817 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 



Good Cooking. By H. W. Wiley, M.D. . 3 

1 Just How to Plan the Menus ... 9 

2 Spring Menus .14 

3 Summer Menus 28 

4 Autumn Menus •41 

5 Winter Menus 56 

6 Bread 71 

7 Just How to Make Bread 75 

8 Just How to Make Breakfast Breads . . 81 

9 Rice . . . ^ 95 

10 Just How to Cook Rice 97 

11 Soups iii 

12 Just How to Make Soups 113 

13 Eggs 123 

14 Just How to Preserve Eggs .... 125 

15 Just How to Cook Eggs 128 

16 Fish 145 

17 Just How to Cook Fish 147 

18 Poultry 171 

19 Just How to Buy and Cook Poultry . . 173 

20 Meat 185 

21 Just How to Buy Meats 187 

22 Just How to Roast Meats . . . . . 200 

23 Just How to Broil Beefsteak .... 202 

24 Just How to Cook Pot Roast of Beef . . 205 



VI 



COXTENTS 



25 Just How to Casserole Meats 

26 Just How to Cook Meats . 



2y Desserts 



28 Just How to AIake Desserts . 

29 Salads 

30 A Chapter of Salads . . . 

31 Potatoes and Other \'egetables . 

32 Just How to Cook Potatoes 

33 Just How to ]vIake Jellies and Preserves 
3^ Just How to Cook A'egetables . 

35 Just How to Make Pickles 

36 Ice Cream axd Cake 

37 Just How to Make Frozen Desserts 

38 Just How to ]\Iake Cake .... 

39 Just How to Buy and IMake Coffee 



PAGE 
209 

214 

239 
265 

267 

281 

297 

343 
357 
359 
375 
399 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

A Tea Tray and Tea Service for the Porch or Indoor Use. 

Frontispiece 
Detail of a Luncheon Service, with the Correct Appoint- 
ments for Serving Fruit Cocktails lo 

One of the Newest Serving Trays, with Dresden China 

Bottom and Wicker Sides ii 

A^ Group of Sandwich Cutters for Use in Making the Tea 

Tray Attractive . . . i8 

A Glass Server for the Cheese Course 19 

A Luncheon Table Decorated for a Suffrage Function . 32 
A School Luncheon Box in which Each Food is Wrapped 

in its Separate Paraffin Case ;^^ 

A Thanksgiving Table Decorated Especially for the Children 48 
Cracker Dish Designed Especially for the Porch Tea Table 49 
Puree of Tomato. A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving 

Relishes 60 

Casaba Melon . . . 61 

Cream Scones. Sally Lunns 72 

Rusk Squares in an Attractive Porringer. A Service for the 

Breakfast Orange ys 

Ragga Muffins. Parker House Rolls 82 

A Luncheon Table for a Washington's Birthday Celebra- 
tion 83 

Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. Rolling 
and Cutting the Dough. Peanut Butter Pinwheels . 88 

Brioche Cakes 89 

Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. A Chafing Dish and 

Alcohol Lamp 98 

Rice Steamed in One of the Newest of Kitchen Novelties : 

a Rice Ball. Raised Muffins 99 

Escalloped Oysters, Served in Scallop Shells . . . . 104 

Planked Salmon, with Potato Balls 105 

vii 



viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS 

FACING PAGE 

Steamed Squash in Shell. Boiled Asparagus . . . 174 . 
Roast Turkey, Garnished with Cranberries .... 175 
Flank Steak. Inferior Ham. Choice Ham .... 188 
Standing Rib Roast. Common Porterhouse Steak from 

Stripper Loin 189 

Sheep or Lamb, Marked to Show the Retail Cuts. Showing 

Where the Chops and Cutlets of Veal Come in the 

Carcass 194 

The Retail Cuts of Pork, as Seen in the Whole Pig. The 

'■ Beef Creature," ]\Iarked Off to Show the Retail Cuts . 195 

Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon 198 

Mutton Loin Roasts 199 

Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades . . 204 

Sausage Bundles 205 

Casserole of Beef. Corn Cakes to serve with ]\Ieat . . 212 
Casseroled Veal. Creamed Asparagus Tips .... 213 
Ivory Cream. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake . . 244 
Gooseberry Amber. Steamed Rice, ^Molded and Garnished 

with Cherries 245 

Strawberry Compote. Orange Surprise 258 

Choux Pastry. Strawberry Charlotte 259 

Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. Cucumbers and Cress . 266 
Tomatoes and Endive Salad, Garnished with Capers. Pond 

Lily Salad 267 

Hawaiian Salad. Grape Salad in Tent 274 

A Spring Luncheon Table, with Violets for the Centerpiece, 

laid with the Service Plates, and ready for the 

Soup Service ,. . • ■ 275 



Potatoes, French Fried. Stuffed Eggplant 

Apples and Sweet Potatoes. A Christmas Garnish for the 

]\Iashed Potatoes 

Celery Croquettes. Shad Roe Croquettes 

Lentils Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. Green 

Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower .... 

A Souffle Tin. Raspberry Jelh', 

Acorn Cakes. Devil's Food Pudding .... 

Flag Cakes. Date Sandwiches 

Red and White Currant and Raspberry. Cherry Salad 



286 

287 
330 

331 
358 
359 
376 
Z77 



PREFACE 

In compiling this cook book the pages of Good House- 
keeping have been freely drawn upon. To the following 
experts our readers are especially indebted : 

Dr. Louis M. Hall, Market Specialist for the Federal 
Department of Agriculture. 

Mr. William B. Harris, Coffee Expert for the Fed- 
eral Department of Agriculture. 

Miss Bertha E. Shapleigh, School of Cookery, 
Teachers College, New York City. 

Mrs. Mary J. Lincoln, Author of the Boston Cook 
Book. 

Mrs. Linda Hull Earned, Author of Hostess of 
To-day. 

Miss Helen Louise Johnson, Chairman of Home 
Economics Section of National Federation of Women's 
Clubs. 

Riley M. Fletcher Berry, Author of Fruit Recipes. 

Professor B. E. Powell, Editor of Publications, 
Illinois College of Agriculture. 

Mildred Maddocks. 



IMPORTANT NEW FEATURES 

Blank pages are provided at the end of each chapter in 
order that each owner of the Pure Food Cook Book 
may increase its value. 

Write or paste in the proper place your favorite old 
recipes, as well as the best new recipes that you find. 

The publishers will be pleased to receive suggestions to 
be included in future editions of the book. 



GOOD COOKING 

BY 
H. W, WILEY 



GOOD COOKING* 



By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 




WO or three years ago I drove with some 

C friends through the vineyards of Burgundy, 
along that hillside which, because of its great 
agricultural wealth, is called the Cote d'Or, 
the hill of gold. Late in the afternoon we 
drove over the crest of the hill where there 
were no longer vines, but undulating fields of 
grain and grass. At sundown, high upon a h'Uside, we 
came to a peasant's cot. The peasant with his family 
were at supper. They were not expecting visitors and 
we w^ere not expecting to be visitors. They invited us 
to supper. The peasant's wife did not do as my mother 
used to when I was a boy, when we were at supper and 
the minister came into the lane. In such a case she 
would take away the corn mush and sorghum molasses 
and skimmed milk and get out the loaf of bread, the 
preserves and jams, and the chickens would come and 
lay their heads upon the block ready for the ax. All in 
honor of the minister. The peasant's wife did not put 
anything on the table she did not have there when we 
came in, only more of it. And such bread ! the whole 
wheat grown in the field nearby and ground in the old- 
fashioned windmill in plain sight. The wheat was not 
deprived of all of its most important mineral ingredients 

* The special articles by Dr. Wiley herein have been written 
expressly for " The Pure Food Cook Book." 

3 



4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

by bolting and sifting. It was just what nature made 
it. The vegetables were crisp from the garden and the 
butter and milk from the spring-house nearby ; and the 
cold lamb had never known the rigors of cold storage, 
but a day or two before was feeding on the aromatic 
grass of the hillside. The cooking was perfect. It was 
a feast fit for Lucullus. And this condition of affairs 
can be found in every part of France; good cooks are 
not the exceptions. They are the rule among the coun- 
try people of that great country. And who has ever 
heard of a divorce in rural France? It is unknown. 
Occasionally we read of divorces in French cities but 
never among the peasantry of the fields. Why should 
anyone want to get a divorce when he is so well pro- 
vided with simple and well-cooked food? There is 
nothing which is more conducive to tranquillity and hap- 
piness than good cooking. Unfortunately it is not con- 
sidered good form to be a cook. The girls of our country 
are set down at a piano at six years of age and compelled 
to pound ivory five hours a day for fifteen years, unless 
in sheer desperation they should run off with the chauf- 
feur. And when they have finished this long and ex- 
pensive course someone comes along and invents a 
pianolo or victrola that plays better music in a minute 
than a girl does after fifteen years of study. She is 
robbed of all her glory. But suppose she had spent 
fifteen years in learning to cook. Who could rob her of 
that glory? No one. It would remain a blessing to 
her, her parents, her husband, and her children for her 
whole life. 

What we need in this country is fewer pianos and 
more stoves. With a good cook in every household, 
and preferably not a hired one, the divorce mills of the 
country might as well shut up ; they would have nothing 



GOOD COOKING 5 

more to do. Domestic life would be peaceful, happy, 
and unbroken. We must get away from the idea that 
cooking is drudgery. There is no drudgery, except in 
the mind. The man who goes out and breaks stone 
evenly so that a lasting road can be built over which 
future generations may pass with comfort and safety is 
not a drudge ; he is an artist. The boy who goes out 
into the field and plows a straight and deep furrow in 
which more corn will grow is not a drudge. He is an 
artist; and the girl who goes into the kitchen and cooks 
a meal that is good, that tastes well, that is properly bal- 
anced and properly served is no drudge ; she is an 
artist. The attitude is the principal thing in this mat- 
ter. If one has the spirit of the artist, the mere physical 
exertion which is necessary to paint the picture is no 
longer feared nor dreaded. 

A cook book such as this will do much to stimulate 
the artistic spirit in the cook, and thus make her forget 
the warmth of the kitchen, the heat of the fire, and the 
manipulations necessary to success. She has before her 
her canvas ; she is painting on it a picture ; that picture is 
the finished meal. She has the enthusiasm of art. There 
is no place for the depressing sense of fatigue. 

Good cooking is also one of the fundamental principles 
of good health. This country has an abundance of food. 
There is no country in the world that has so much in 
proportion to the population ; and there are few coun- 
tries, I imagine, where so large a percentage of it is 
spoiled in the kitchen, before it reaches the table. What 
an infinite blessing it would be to all the people of this 
country if that spoiling of the food in the kitchen could 
be stopped ! How much of comfort, good health, and 
happiness that would imply. How great the economy 
which it would work. The cook who '' knows how " is 



6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

the economical cook. And the food that is properly 
prepared for the table is the food which in the end costs 
less and goes further than any other. The high cost 
of living would have no terrors for the good cook who 
liked the simple and nutritious dishes. 

Good Housekeeping in its ministration, looking to the 
betterment of the food supply and the increasing excel- 
lence of cooking, is doing a world's service which will 
be only measured by the gratitude of the millions who 
are benefited by its work, ^^^e have Good Housekeep- 
ing stores that are selling foods approved by Good 
Housekeeping and the household utensils which receive 
the approbation of its Institute. We now want to com- 
plete that work by instituting Good Housekeeping 
kitchens in which the mistress of the kitchen will know 
the principles of nutrition as well as the technique of 
cooking. She will know how to select her foods for 
the purpose for which they are intended, namely, to 
restore waste, build tissue, and furnish heat and energy. 
Every meal will- be selected for its fundamental proper- 
ties and then prepared with an art which will render 
each component of the food more completely assimilable 
and useful. Thus at the same time the Good House- 
keeping kitchen will minister to the taste and to the 
nutrition of the body. It is not necessarily scientific 
cooking in the strictest sense of that art. but it is rather 
artistic cooking in the broadest sense of that word. It 
is that form of equipment which will enable one to first 
select the foods best suited for the purpose and then 
manipulate them with skill to fulfill that purpose more 
completely. 

A cook book, therefore, should be not a mere cata- 
logue of recipes. This cook book is more than that. It 
is a selection of means to an end. skillfully adapted to 



GOOD COOKING 7 

its purpose, and made as attractive as possible. The 
cook who is interested in this matter sufficiently to catch 
the spirit of the book will find her work lessened, her 
joy increased, and the benefits of her ministrations 
enjoyed. 



THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 




AKING out the bills of fare for the three hun- 
dred and sixty-five days of the year is a bug- 
bear to many a woman. This feeling is apt 
to come from trying to plan at the wrong time. 
Few women can stand before an ice-box con- 
taining the remnants of '' gone-before meals," 
immediately after eating One, and plan out the 
next meal with zest or any great success. But take your 
pad and pencil and all the cook books you have. First 
look through these and put down under their respective 
headings those dishes which seem to you practicable or 
desirable for any of the three meals. Then plan the 
meals for a week, making out the probable market lists 
at the same time. Then when you stand before the ice- 
box with this week's bill of fare in your hand, you can 
adjust the meals to suit the exigencies of left-overs or lack 
of them, or to the incidents of company and unexpected 
changes. 

By this plan you will soon find your meals more varied, 
the cost should be lessened, and it is actually easier to 
plan better meals for less money in this way than to do 
so each day by itself. Of course you must make yourself 
familiar with the market supplies, and know how to 
choose. 

Knowing how to choose involves the whole subject of 
nutrition, and most housekeepers quail before its neces- 
sarily scientific rules and formulas. But there are little, 
common, everyday things which are great helps. For 

9 



lo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

instance, there is an understood rule that any one food 
shall not be used twice in any form. That is, it is quite 
out of place to have chicken soup and boiled fowl in the 
same meal ; the connection is too obvious. This rule is a 
good one to use in planning the day's meals at any time. 
Eggs, certain kinds of meat or fish, should not be re- 
peated ; tomatoes stewed for luncheon should not be 
served again in that meal. This rule is applicable all 
through and leads to the oft-repeated one w^hich calls for 
the disguising of left-overs. Every meal should be a 
creation. 

Any one meal should not be colorless or flat. Do not 
serve more than one creamed dish. A cream soup, and 
baked custards for dessert is another example of this, 
for both would be white and creamy and as both in 
color and flavor the dinner would be flat and tasteless, it 
could not attract nor stimulate the appetite. Care always 
should be taken to aid digestion by the appearance as 
well as the flavor of the food. Within reasonable limits, 
dietetic errors do far less damage if the food is enjoyed 
when eaten. 

With fish, especially the fat fish, should be served some 
vegetable, sauce, or condiment acid in its nature, or to 
which acid is added. When spinach is served with 
fish, the inference is that vinegar will be used with it. 
Hot slaw is preferable to creamed cabbage, and cauliflower 
should be served with a hollandaise in place of a cream 
sauce, when either accompanies fish. It is often very 
difficult to accomplish this proper serving of vegetables 
with certain dinner dishes, and this is especially true 
when no meat is used. Fish and meat substitutes are 
flat, and the feeling induced by the thought of them 
indicates a tart accompaniment. 

Where there are no small children at the table a soup 




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JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS it. 

or a salad served with each dinner would be preferable 
to a dessert. Desserts are often unnecessary, . taking 
more time, labor, and money than they return in food 
value. Often they add the extra proteid or carbohydrate 
which overloads the digestive organs. After a hearty 
dinner, an Qgg dessert, for instance, containing sufficient 
nourishment for the main dish of luncheon, is out of 
place. If, when planning, you can Gay to yourself, 
" There are two cupfuls of milk, three or four eggs, 
sugar, etc., in that dessert, and that is all unnecessary," 
you will find yourself planning more and more simple, 
wholesome things. Where the family at table consists of 
adults they are many times, far better ofif with two pieces 
of candy, or a sweet cracker with a cup of clear after- 
dinner coHee, than with any made dessert. 

Baked or stewed apples, apple sauce, or apple durnp- 
lings are better and cheaper than apple pie, but most of 
us like apple pie, and should have it as a reward of 
virtue once in a while. But why take time, labor, and 
material to make an under crust for a custard baked in 
a pie tin, instead of in cups, without any crust? They 
are less expensive and more wholesome in the cup form. 
Where there are growing children at the table desserts 
are required as vehicles for the fats and sugar needed 
in their diet. 

In planning the dinner the question of soups is an im- 
portant one. Where fresh meat is to be served or dishes 
containing considerable food value, the soup should be a 
clear one. There is little food value to soup stock, but 
clear soup acts as a stimulant to the digestion and pre- 
pares the way for the rest of the dinner. Cream soups 
of any kind are nutritious, and should be employed for 
dinner when there is a lack in the rest of the bill of fare. 
This is why cream soups are suggested for luncheon so 



12 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

often and with little else. A well-made cream soup, with 
crackers or bread, followed by a dessert or fresh or 
stewed fruit with plain cake, cookies, or gingerbread is 
all that is needed for an adequate luncheon. 

Any left-overs may often be used in the making of 
soups. Where the midday meal is merely luncheon, not 
a luncheon-dinner, planned for the children, the left-overs 
should be utilized and served then. 

In no department of cooking is skill more needed than 
in making over dishes — hashes, in reality. The basis 
for most reheated meats, fish, and vegetables is a sauce 
of some kind. ^Master the making of sauces and one is 
master of the well-made entree. Remember, it is not 
the simplicity of the bill of fare, but how its dishes are 
cooked and served, that makes of the meal a feast. 

What to Serve for Breakfast 

Fruit may be served at every breakfast, but do not 
serve acid fruits like oranges and grapefruit when a 
cereal is served. 

Serve plain foods simply cooked. 

Serve home cooked, coarse cereals with eggs. 

Serve baked potatoes with creamed fish. 

Serve creamed potatoes with smoked fish. 

Serve creamed potatoes with lamb chops. 

Serve nuts and dates, or figs, with cereal in place 
of meat. 

Do not ser\'e elaborate made dishes for breakfast. 

What to Serve for Luncheon 

Use the left-overs for luncheon. 

Serve a soup with watties or griddle cakes for dessert. 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 13 

It will be an innovation in some families, but the waffles 
are even better than at breakfast. 

Or serve a made-meat dish, a salad, and a dessert. 

Serve mayonnaise with tgg, meat, fish, or shellfish 
salads. Also with the more delicate vegetable salads, as 
tomato, asparagus, or celery. 

Serve a boiled salad dressing with vegetable salads. 

Serve French dressing with all green salads. 

Serve plain lemon with all fat fish, as salmon, herring, 
mackerel — or a green salad with French dressing. 

Serve a rich butter sauce or hoUandaise with the white 
fish like halibut, cusk, haddock, and smeUs. 

Tomatoes may be served with fish in place of lemon. 

What to Serve for Dinner 

The following combinations may be helpful in plan- 
ning the family dinner : they all are correct in supplying a 
well-balanced meal. 

Serve a clear soup, meat, potatoes, or a starchy vege- 
table like rice or hominy, a green vegetable, and dessert. 
Or meat, potatoes or a substitute, a salad, and dessert. 
Or a cream soup, a made dish of meat and potatoes, and 
dessert. 

With roast meats serve potatoes mashed, or roasted 
in the pan with the meat. 

' With fricasseed meats, serve baked potatoes. 
" Serve potatoes plain boiled, only when new. 

With broiled steak, serve creamed potatoes and a crisp 
fried vegetable like eggplant. 

With roast pork, serve baked potatoes, a green vege- 
table, and a sour apple sauce. 

With roast beef, serve potatoes baked in the pan and 
a sweet watermelon or peach pickle. 

Any vegetable harmonizes with beef. 



14 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

\A^ith roast chicken, serve mashed potato, onions, and 
a sour jelly. 

\\\Xh. roast lamb, serve mashed potato, green peas or 
string beans, and a mint sauce. 

Serve caper sauce only with mutton. 

Serve tomatoes, in some form, with veal. 

For dinner salads, use only the simple green salads, 
with French dressing. 

What to Serve for Supper 

Use made dishes for supper as well as for luncheon. 

Use at least one hot dish in winter. 

Serve a cream soup followed by waffles. 

Do not serve a cream soup followed by a salad. 

Salads may be used at supper in warm weather. 

Choose a vegetable or meat salad, using boiled dressing 
or mayonnaise. 

Serve pickles or a sour sauce with baked beans if there 
be any pork baked with them. 

Serve cakes or cookies, with fruit, for dessert at supper. 

SPRING MENUS— MARCH 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Bacon and potato omelet 

Corn muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana and nut salad 

Hot biscuit Currant cake 

Tea 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 15 

Dinner 

Cream of lettuce soup 

Lamb chops 

Stuffed potatoes Peas 

Steamed pudding with vanilla sauce 

Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Baked beans Brown bread 

Fish balls 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken pie 

Sweet potato croquettes 

Cauliflower 

Cheese and red pepper salad 

Coffee ice cream, marshmallow sauce 

Snow cake 

Coffee 

Supper 

Spinach omelet 

Currant buns Preserves 

Gold cake 

Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed apricots 

Uncooked cereal 

Omelet Rolls 

Coffee 



i6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Baked bean soup 

Toasted brown bread 

Apple sauce 

Gingerbread 

Tea 

Dinner 

Beef a la mode 

Mashed potatoes 

Red cabbage 

Nut pie 

Coffee 



TUESDAY 



Biscuit 



Cup cakes 



Breakfast 

Bananas 

Cereal 

Fried fish 

Luncheon 
Bread griddle cakes 

Dinner 

Shepherd pie 



Coffee 



String beans 

Fruit jelly 



Tea 



Squash 
Coffee 



WEDNESDAY 



Breakfast 

Grapes 



Cereal 



Bacon 



Toast 



Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 17 

Luncheon 

Cream tomato soup 

Muffins 

Preserves 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled mutton, caper sauce 

Mashed potatoes Turnips 

Lima beans 

Hawaiian salad 

Coffee 



THURSDAY 



Breakfast 



Apples 

Creamed dried beef 

Baked potatoes 

Rolls Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sausages 

Muffins 

Sliced oranges 

Cake Tea 

Dinner 

Onion soup 

Scalloped mutton 

Potato croquettes 

Baked squash 

Lettuce salad, French dressing 

Apple pie Coffee 



i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Cereal 

Poached eggs 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Vegetable soup 

Crisp crackers 

Jellied prunes 

Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Baked stuffed haddock with hollandaise sauce 

Boiled potatoes Spinach 

Tomato jelly salad 

Chocolate nut blancmange 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with figs 

/ Buttered toast 

Coft'ee 

Luncheon 

Rice with cheese 

Fruit cakes Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato soup 

Hamburg steak 

Carrots and peas in potato cases 

Watercress 

Baked rice pudding 

Coffee 







to 

O 

O 



o 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 19 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Bacon and buckwheat cakes 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast turkey Cranberry sauce 

Mashed potatoes Onions 

Celery Baked squash 

Mince pie Coffee 

Supper 

Orange, nut and raisin salad 

Hot biscuit 

Chocolate layer cake 

Tea 

SPRING MENUS— APRIL 
MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Scrambled eggs Biscuit 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Corn chowder 

Preserves Ginger snaps 

Tea 

Dinner 

Roast pork 

Apple sauce Celery 

Mashed potato Squash 

Orange jelly 

Coffee 



2Q THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with bananas 

Creamed fish Rolls 

Coftee 

Luncheon 

Eggs and celery- 
Nut bread 
Cake Tea 

Dinner 
Cold roast pork 
Baked potatoes Apple sauce 

Onions Turnips 

Rice pudding 
Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Griddle cakes and syrup 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream toast 
Baked apples with nuts Molasses cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cannelon of beef 

Riced potatoes Shell beans 

Lettuce with French dressing 

Fruit roll 

Coft"ee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 21 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal 

Broiled bacon 

Corn muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Macaroni and cheese 

Sliced oranges 

Almond cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Lamb chops 

Mint potatoes Peas 

Apple and celery salad 

Caramel bread pudding 

Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with figs 

Buttered toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Egg salad 

Clam fritters Preserves 

Cake Tea 

Dinner 

Baked shad 

Potatoes hollandaise 

Cucumbers Scalloped tomatoes 

Apple pie Cheese 

Coffee 



22 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Apples and sausage 
Baked potatoes 



Rolls 



Luncheon 

Cold roast beef 

Lyonnaise potatoes 

Pickles 

Dutch apple cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Irish stew with dumplings 

Cheese and olive salad 

Fruit jelly 

Coffee 



Coffee 



SUNDAY 



Breakfast 

Grapefruit marmalade 

Boiled eggs Biscuit 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast beef 

Potatoes baked in pan 

Celery Squash 

Asparagus salad 

Vienna peach parfait 

Sponge cake Coffee 

Supper 

Oyster patties 

Preserves Chocolate cake 

Tea 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 23 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Uncooked cereal 

Broiled honeycomb tripe 

Graham rolls Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana and nut salad 
Biscuit Preserves 

Sugar cookies 
Tea 

Dinner 

Roast beef in Mexican sauce 

Boiled potatoes Spinach 

Steamed chocolate pudding with creamy sauce 

Coffee 
TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Omelet 

Toast Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream tomato soup 

Croutons 

Maple gingerbread 

Tea 

Dinner 

Roast stuffed veal 

Mashed potatoes Lettuce 

Succotash 

Lemon sherbet 

Cake Coffee 



24 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

SPRING MENUS— MAY 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with figs and cream 

Crisp bacon 

Muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Vegetable salad 

Corn sticks Cold sliced ham 

Fruit Cookies 

Dinner 

Broiled steak 
Mashed potatoes Peas 

Lettuce with dressing 

Spanish cream 
Chocolate sponge cake 
THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Eggs baked in casseroles 

Hominy muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Spanish fricassee of chicken 

Rolls 

Bananas and cream 

Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Clear soup with croutons 
Potroast of beef 
Boiled potatoes Brown gravy 

String beans 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 25 

Spiced rice pudding 
Small coffee 
FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Cereal with cream 

Broiled bacon Rye muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped salmon 

Dandelion and mint salad 

Gingerbread 

Cream cheese 

Dinner 

Mackerel (baked in paper bag) 

Baked potatoes Peas 

Tomato salad 

Steamed fruit pudding with hard sauce 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked rhubarb with orange 

Fish hash 

Corn bread Coffee 

Luncheon 

Escalloped potatoes and eggs 

Dandelion salad 

Sugar cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Panned mutton chops 

Mashed potato Creamed onions 

Radishes 

Ginger cream 

Lady fingers 



26 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced oranges 

Omelet 

Sally Lunns Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast beef 

Potatoes baked in pan 

Celery Asparagus on toast 

Ice cream with maple sauce 

Small cakes Small coffee 

Supper 

Shrimp mystery in chafing dish 

Toast 

Sponge cake Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Country sausage 

Bread-crumb griddle cakes with syrup 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream of celery soup 

Crisp crackers 

Potato salad Cheese balls 

Preserved peaches Cake 

Dinner 

Roast beef (reheated) 

Potato puff' Spanish onions 

Rhubarb tarts Small coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 2y 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with dates and cream 

Broiled finnan haddie 

Plain muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Potato omelet 

Lettuce with French dressing 

Fruit dumplings Tea 

Dinner 

Veal in casserole with vegetables 

Succotash Celery 

Orange and lemon sherbet 
Cake Small coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Fruit 

Cereal with cream 

Crisp bacon Potato cakes 

Toast Coffee 

Luncheon 

Macaroni with sausages 

Apple and celery salad 

Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Roast beef pie 

Spinach Tomato salad 

Pineapple Bavarian cream 

Small coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Fruit Cereal 



28 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Boiled eggs Coffee 

Luncheon 

Baked sliced ham 
Preserves Small cakes 

Orange Pekoe tea 

Dinner 

Beef stew with dumplings 

String beans 

Tomato and horseradish salad 

Crackers 

Charlotte russe Small coffee 

SUMMER MENUS— JUNE 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Strawberries and cream 

Baked eggs Bacon curls 

Raised muffins Coft"ee 

Dinner 

Alock bisque soup 

Roast lamb Brown gravy 

]\Iashed potatoes 

Fresh asparagus with drawn butter 

Vanilla ice cream 
Strawberry sauce Coffee 

Supper 

Fruit salad 

Cream mayonnaise 

Toast Chocolate 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Fruit 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 29 

Baked salt mackerel 
Graham muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Poached eggs with asparagus 
Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Lamb timbales 

Creamed carrots Baked potatoes 

Lemon bread pudding 

Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Strawberries Cereal 

Bacon Corn cake 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Luncheon cheese 

Strawberries 

Cake Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of pea soup 

Broiled steak 

Fried potatoes Lettuce salad 

Cream cheese Wafers 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges sliced 

Minced lamb on toast 

Hot rolls Coffee 



30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Sausages with bananas 

Graham toast 

Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato soup 

Crisp crackers Baked stuffed shad 

Potato balls 

Maitre d'hotel butter 

Sponge cake with whipped cream 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Boiled shad roe 

Corn muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped fish in shells 

Rye biscuit 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato soup 

Tongue in casserole 

Boiled new potatoes 

Buttered string beans 

Strawberry parfait Coffee 

FRIDAY . 

Breakfast 

Sliced bananas 

Creamed codfish on toast 

Corn cake Coft'ee 

Luncheon 

Egg salad 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 31 

Cheese breadsticks 

Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Clam chowder 

Baked halibut 

Hashed brown potatoes 

Sliced cucumbers Chiffonade dressing 

Caramel custard Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with cream 

Broiled ham Fried potatoes 

Toast Coffee 

Luncheon 

Curried eggs 

Rice border 

Cake Coffee 

Dinner 

Crearh of fish soup 

Cold tongue with jellied vegetables 

Baked macaroni 

Gingerbread Coffee 



SUNDAY 



Breakfast 

Hominy and cream 

Fish balls and bacon 

Parker House rolls 

Coffee 

Dinner 
Planked salmon with potato balls 
Fresh asparagus on cream toast 



32 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Fresh cherry pie Coffee 

Supper 

Welsh rarebit 

Pineapple salad 

Cream cheese Crackers 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Cereal with cream Plain omelet 

Muffins Coffee 

Dinner 

Casserole of lamb 

Boiled new potatoes 

Tomato and olive salad with mayonnaise 

Toasted crackers 

Nut tapioca Coffee 

Supper 

Cold deviled eggs 

Hot rolls 

Strawberries and cream 

Cocoa 

SUMMER MENUS— JULY 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries and cream 

Cereal Muffins 

Broiled bacon Coffee 

Luncheon 

Codfish puff 

Sliced tomatoes Rolls 

Iced tea Wafers 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 33 

Dinner 

Broiled lamb chops 

Currant mint sauce 

Boiled rice 

Tomato and lettuce salad 

Blancmange with raspberry sauce 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal with cream 

Plain omelet Toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Finnan haddie on toast 

Muffins 

Gingerbread Tea 

Dinner 

Clear soup 

Baked ham 

New buttered potatoes 

Swiss chard 
Stuffed tomato salad 
Crackers Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced bananas 

Scrambled eggs on toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cold sliced ham 

Cream toast 

Cocoa 



34 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Dinner 

Roast lamb Mint sauce 

Roasted potatoes 

Green string beans 

Lettuce salad 

Chili dressing 

Caramel bread pudding 

Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries 

Boiled cooked ham 

(left from Wednesday) 

Creamed potatoes Hot rolls 

Coft'ee 

Dinner 

Consomme, garnish of rice and red peppers 

Baked halibut 

Fresh green peas 

New buttered potatoes 

Dressed cucumbers 

Vanilla ice cream 

Hot chocolate sauce 

Cake Coffee 

Supper 

Shrimp and green pea salad 

Lettuce sandwiches 

Fruit punch Cake 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed rhubarb 

Minced lamb on toast 

Biscuits Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 35 

Luncheon 
Eggs in baked potatoes 
Popovers Tea 

Dinner 

Mock bisque soup 

Creamed salmon in shells 

Rice timbales 

Vegetable salad with mayonnaise 

Lemon bread pudding , Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Hominy and cream 

Fish balls Baked beans 

Rolls Coffee 

Dinner 

Clear soup 

Baked chicken with stuffing 

Mashed potato 

Boiled Bermuda onions 

Romaine salad 

Cheese Crackers 

Raspberry shortcake Coffee 

Supper (Company) 

Creamed crab meat (in chafing dish) 

Toast Ripe olives 

Mint punch ^ Cake 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal 
Omelet Muffins 

Coffee # 



36 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Dinner 

Cream of onion soup 

Potroast of beef 

Scalloped tomatoes 

Baked macaroni 

Fruit Crackers and cheese 

Supper 

Jellied chicken and eggs 

Hot biscuits 

Gingerbread with marshmallow sauce 

Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Currants 

Poached eggs on toast 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Baked stuft'ed fish 

Sliced cucumbers 

French fried potatoes 

Scalloped eggplant 

Graham torte 

Coffee 

Supper 

Cold potroast of beef 

Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes 

Soft custard 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Beef hash Corn muffins 

Coft'ee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 37 

Dinner 

Veal cutlet, brown sauce 

Green peas Mashed potatoes 

Tomato salad 

Cold cabinet pudding 

Coffee 

Supper 

Fish croquettes with tomato sauce 

Rolls 

Macedoine of fruit 

SUMMER MENUS— AUGUST 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Blueberries 

Broiled fresh mackerel 

Corn muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scrambled eggs on cream toast 

Blueberry cake 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato and corn soup 

Baked halibut with hollandaise sauce 

Boiled potatoes Green peas 

Apricot pie - Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal 

Shirred eggs 

Blueberry muffins Coffee 



38 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Salad of halibut and peas with piquant mayonnaise 

Rolls Iced tea 

Cookies 

Dinner 

Boiled fowl wdth celery sauce 

Rice Green corn on cob 

Tomato and cucumber salad 

Lemon pudding 

Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Cantaloupe 

Hominy and cream 

Fish balls and bacon 

Hot rolls Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of lettuce soup 

Roast lamb 

Currant jelly sauce 

Riced potatoes 

Baked, stuffed tomatoes 

Frozen apricots Coffee 

Supper 

Chicken rechauffe (chafing dish) 

Graham bread and butter 

Preserved figs Iced tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal and cream 

Creamed dried beef 

Corn cake Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 39 

Luncheon 

Baked beans (reheated) 

Toasted graham bread 

Cocoa — hot or iced 

Dinner 

Cold roast lamb 

Potato croquettes 

Scalloped eggplant 

Blueberry pie Coffee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked sweet apples with cream 

Toast Broiled bacon 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Luncheon cheese 

Sliced tomatoes with French dressing 

Tea Cookies 

Dinner 

Spanish fricassee of chicken 

Green corn on cob 

Lettuce salad 

Cream cheese with currant jelly 

Wafers Cold caramel custard 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Minced lamb on toast 

Plain muffins 

Coffee 



40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Scalloped chicken and corn 

Toast Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken soup 

Broiled steak 

Baked stuffed tomatoes 

flashed potatoes 

Baked blueberry pudding with ^lunroe sauce 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Blackberries 

Calves' liver and bacon 

Sour cream biscuit Coffee 

Luncheon 

Escallop of green corn 

Sliced cucumbers 

Fresh rolls 

Tea Cake 

Dinner 

Vegetable soup 

Veal loaf 

Boiled macaroni and tomato sauce 

Spinach 

Coffee ice cream 

Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Cooked cereal 

Baked eggs 

Muffins Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 41 

Luncheon 

Cold ham 
Spinach salad and mayonnaise 
Rolls Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato soup with macaroni 

Baked stuffed bluefish 

Fried potatoes Creamed cucumbers 

Grape juice souffle 

Coffee 



SATURDAY 



Toast 



Breakfast 

Blueberries 

Broiled cooked ham 

Luncheon 

Scalloped fish in shells 

Peanut butter pinwheels 

Iced coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of cucumber soup 

Broiled chops 
Baked creamed potatoes 

Green corn 

Tomato and lettuce salad 

Rolled, toasted sandwiches 

Coffee 



Coffee 



AUTUMN MENUS— SEPTEMBER 



MONDAY 



Breakfast 

Cooked cereal 



42 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Poached eggs on toast 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Tomato soup (without stock) 

Crisp crackers 

Broiled steak 

Hashed potatoes Fried summer squash 

Apple pie Coffee 

Supper 

Cold corned beef 

Vegetable salad Bread 

Peaches — sliced 

Cake Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Raspberries (late) and cream 

Broiled tomatoes on cream toast 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of cucumber soup 

Cold sliced lamb 

Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes 

Cherry tapioca 

Coffee 

Supper 

Corn chowder (green corn) 

Hot gingerbread 

Cottaee cheese 



*&' 



WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 
Fried corn meal mush 



43 



Bacon 



Green corn 



Coffee 



Dinner 

Clear soup 
Roast chicken 

Orange salad 
Sour cream pie 

Supper 

Lamb souffle 

Fresh rolls 

Macedoine of fruit 



Boiled rice 



THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Cooked cereal 

Creamed dried beef 

Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Vegetable soup 

Lamb chops Turkish pilaf 

Fried eggplant 

Blueberry pie Coffee 

Supper 

Lobster and spinach salad 

Rolls 

Iced tea Cookies 



FRIDAY 



Coffee 



Breakfast 

Baked apples and cream 
Bacon and potato omelet 

Rolls (reheated) 



44 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Dinner 

Chicken and corn soup 

Baked bluefish 

Dressed sliced cucumbers 

Pear condet Coffee 

Supper 

Baked chicken hash 

Sliced tomatoes 

Sponge cake Iced tea 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal 

Sliced bananas and cream 

Muffins Coffee 

Dinner 
Roast beef 

Franconia potatoes 

Scalloped squash 

Tomato and lettuce salad with French dressing 

Banana compote Coft'ee 

Supper 

Baked beans 

Steamed brown bread 

Custards 



SUNDAY 



Breakfast 

Cantaloupe 

Fish balls 

Parker House rolls 

Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 45 

Dinner (Company) 

Consomme 

Chicken Marengo (served in small casseroles) 

Green corn on cob 

Fried summer squash 

Dressed lettuce 

Cream cheese Bar-le-duc 

Peach ice cream 

Coffee 

Supper 

Crab and tomato salad with mayonnaise 

Rolls (reheated) 

Grape juice punch 



MONDAY 



Breakfast 

Sliced peaches 
Uncooked cereal and cream 
Scrambled eggs 
Toast and coffee 

Luncheon 

Fried tomatoes on toast 

Hot gingerbread 

Cottage cheese Tea 

Dinner 

Corn and tomato soup 

Baked shoulder of lamb with currant mint sauce 

Green peas and pimientos 

Mashed potatoes 

Peach ice cream 

Coffee 



46 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Creamed chicken on toast 

(chicken left from Sunday) 

Muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Lamb broth Baked corn custard 

Popovers 

Cake Cocoa 

Dinner 

Steak a la Stanley 

Baked potatoes 

Lima beans 

Spinach salad 

Spanish cream Coffee 

AUTUMN MENUS— OCTOBER 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Pears and grapes 

Hominy and cream 

Plain omelet 

Popovers Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream of rice soup 

Toasted crackers 

Cold ham with lettuce salad 

Bread and butter folds Cocoa 

Dinner 

Clear soup with spaghetti 

Roast veal (loin) 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 47 

Sour cream gravy 

Mashed potatoes 

Scalloped eggplant and tomato 

Romaine salad Chiffonade dressing 

Apple pie Cheese 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges Uncooked cereal 

Cream toast Boiled bacon 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped eggs and potatoes 

Fresh rolls 

Sliced peaches Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of tomato soup 

Croutons Cold sliced veal 

Baked potatoes 

Creamed cauliflower 

Spanish cream Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit (removed from shell) 

Creamed ham on toast 

Rolls (reheated) Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sardines with potato salad 
Toast Cocoa 

Dinner 
Boiled cod Hollandaise sauce 



48 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Potato rissolees 

Buttered beets 

Cabbage and celery salad 

Baked caramel custard Caramel sauce 

Coffee 



SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Cooked cereal with cream 

Fish hash 

Corn cake Coffee 

Luncheon 

Creamed veal in mashed potato border 
Hot biscuits 
Fruitcake Tea 

Dinner 

Fish soup (Swedish) 

Broiled steak French fried potatoes 

Baked stuffed onions Celery 

Cold cabinet pudding 

Coft'ee 



SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes Hominy and cream 

Fish balls 

Parker House rolls 

Coffee 




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JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 49 

Dinner 

Consomme 

Olives Celery. 

Rolled fillets of flounder creamed 

Lobster sauce 

Roast lamb Currant jelly 

Roasted potatoes Creamed turnips 

Peach ice cream Coffee 

Supper 

Lobster salad Ripe olives 

Bread and butter sandwiches 

Cake Coffee 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced pears with cream 

Poached ^gg with cream 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Casserole of beef stew 

Lettuce and tomato salad 

Steamed fig pudding 

Foamy sauce 

Supper 

Cream of corn soup 

Crisp crackers 

Lettuce and beet salad with mayonnaise 

Hot biscuits 

Gingerbread Tea 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal (uncooked) 



50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Sliced bananas and cream 

Corn muffins Bacon 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled tongue 

Plain boiled potatoes 

Scalloped cabbage Beet and green pepper salad 

Brown Betty Coffee 

Supper 

Eggs and celery Creamed potatoes 

Baking powder biscuits 

Preserved figs 

Cake Tea 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Oranges 
' Minced lamb on toast 

IMuffins Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of cabbage soup (made from left-over 

scalloped cabbage) 

Salmi of lamb Stuffed baked potatoes 

Fried eggplant 

Prune whip Custard sauce 

Supper 

Cold tongue Potato salad 

Rolls 

Baked pears with Bangor Brownies 

Tea 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 
Stewed figs Uncooked cereal 



JUST HOW TO FLAN THE MENUS 51 

Baked eggs Corn muffins 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of pea soup 

Baked sliced ham 

Turkish pilaf Green string beans 

Orange and mint salad 

Custard souffle 

Supper 

Cheese pudding 

Popovers 

String bean and pimiento salad 

Cocoa shells Cake 



AUTUMN MENUS— NOVEMBER 
SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples with cream 

Buckwheat cakes 

Maple syrup Coffee 

Luncheon 

Minced lamb on toast 

Baked potatoes 

Fruit Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato soup 

Veal cutlets in casserole 

Scalloped tomatoes 

Lettuce and cream cheese salad 

Pumpkin pie Coffee 



52 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Hominy and cream 

Baked sausages 

Waffles 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Clear soup 

Roast capon, giblet gravy 

Cranberry relish Southern sweet peppers 

Baked stuffed potatoes 

Caramel ice cream 

Cake Coffee 

Supper 

Milk rabbit 

Olives Pickles 

Lemon sticks 

Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Uncooked cereal 

Scrambled eggs with bacon 

Muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

French toast 
Chocolate 

Dinner 

Creole soup (using remainder of peppers and stuffing) 

Meat balls, curried rice 

Peas Onion salad 

Bread and butter pudding 

Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 53 



TUESDAY 



Cake 



Breakfast 

Stewed apples 

Date muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cold chicken 

Hot rolls 

Asparagus salad 

Dinner 

Broiled lamb chops 

Delmonico potatoes 

Green string beans 

Orange salad 

Cheese souffle 

Coffee 



Tea 



WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges, sliced 

Minced chicken on toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Summer hot pot 

Gingerbread Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of pea soup 

Roast loin of pork 

Apple sauce 

Roasted potatoes Creamed onions 

Prune souffle 

Coffee 



54 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Sliced bananas 

Oatmeal and cream 

Bacon Eggs to order 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream of , onion soup 

Crisp crackers 

Pear salad, cream mayonnaise 

Rolls Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken soup with rice 

Cold roast pork (gravy reheated) 

Browned sweet potatoes 

Baked squash 

Apple fritters, vanilla sauce 

Coffee 



FRIDAY 



Breakfast 

Creamed codfish 

Johnnycake 

Baked potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Salmon salad 

Popovers 

Baked custard 

Tea 

Dinner 

Plain tomato soup 

Baked cod, oyster stuffing 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 55 

Mock hollandaise 

French fried potatoes 

Lettuce salad, chili dressing 

Toasted crackers Cheese 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Bacon omelet 

Muffins Coffee 

Luncheon 

Scalloped fish 

Steamed brown bread 

Sliced oranges 

Cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Mock pork 

Hot rolls Fruit salad 

Crackers Cheeese Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples with cream 

Fish balls 

Brown bread 

Waffles Coffee 

Dinner 

Consomme with noodles 

Roast beef, horseradish sauce 

Roasted potatoes Boiled buttered onions 

Molded tomato salad 

Crackers Cheese 



56 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Cold cabinet pudding 

Coffee 

Supper 

Chicken salad 

Lettuce sandwiches 

Chocolate nut wafers Preserves 

Tea 

WINTER MENUS— DECEMBER 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed apricots Uncooked cereal 

Scrambled eggs 

Buttered toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sweet potato toast 
Apple sauce Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled halibut 

Hollandaise sauce 

Potatoes with parsley String beans 

Apple pie Cheese 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes Cereal 

Bacon Creamed potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Stuffed sweet potatoes 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS $7 

Biscuits Preserves 

Tea 

Dinner 

Braised tongue, caper sauce 
Mashed potatoes Parsnip fritters . 

Creamed lima beans 
Mock cherry pie Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked apples 

Uncooked cereal Cream toast 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Beefsteak with onions 

Mashed potatoes Squash 

Celery and nut salad 

Orange ice 

Angel cake Coffee 

Supper 

Sweetbread in ramekins 

Rolls Preserves 

Marshmallow cake Tea 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes Cereal 

Poached eggs on toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Breaded tongue, tomato sauce 

Scalloped potatoes 

Cake Tea 



58 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Dinner 

Flank steak en casserole 

Apple and celery salad 

Lemon jelly with soft custard sauce 

Goitee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes Uncooked cereal 

Greamed dried beef on toast 

Goffee 

Luncheon 

Gream tomato soup 

Doughnuts Gheese 

Tea 

Dinner 

Mutton chops 

Griddled sweet potatoes Peas 

Brussels sprouts 

Rice pudding Gofifee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapefruit 

Gereal 
Sausages Rolls 

Goffee 

Luncheon 

Gorn soup 

Grisp crackers Toasted English muffins 

Marmalade Tea 

Dinner 
Meat loaf with hard cooked eggs 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 59 

Mashed potatoes 

Spinach Lima beans 

Prune souffle Coffee 

CHRISTMAS DAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Baked sausages 

Waffles, syrup 

Coffee 

Christmas Dinner 

Oyster cocktails 
Brown bread folds 
Pimolas Ripe olives 

Clear consomme, garnish of pimiento stars 
Roast goose, potato stuffing (garnish of fried apple- 
rings and sausages) 
Candied sweet potatoes Boiled onions 

Dinner salad 
Crackers Cream cheese 

English plum pudding, brandy sauce 
(Garnish with holly and send lighted to table) 
Vanilla ice cream with red bar-le-duc currants 
Cakes, candies, nuts, and raisins 
ApoUinaris Black coffee 

Supper 
Eggs Creole (chafing-dish) 
Toasted crackers Olives 

Fruit cake Tea 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes Cereal 

Broiled bacon Corn muffins 

Coffee 



6o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Italian Polenta 
Baked apples Tea 

Dinner 

Baked whitefish 

Boiled potatoes Cold slaw 

Scalloped tomatoes 

Mince turnovers 

Coffee 

SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Uncooked cereal 

Scrambled eggs Toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream toast 

Cake Chocolate 

Dinner 

Cold roast goose 

Stuffed potatoes Creamed celery 

Cream cheese and currant salad 

Fruit Coffee 

WINTER MENUS— JANUARY 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Cereal with dates 

French toast 

Coffee 




Puree of Tomato. 
Recipe on Page ii8. 




A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving Relishes. 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 6i 

Dinner 

Veal with sour cream gravy 

Mashed potatoes 

Celery Olives 

Mushrooms in cream 

Charlotte russe Coffee 

Supper 

Oyster stew 

Rolls Caramel nut cake 

Tea 



MONDAY 



Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Sausage pats 

Baked potatoes 

Rolls Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream of corn soup 
Crackers Tea 

Dinner 

Roast lamb . 

Potatoes baked in pan 

Green beans Turnips 

Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce 

Coffee 



TUESDAY 



Breakfast 

Apple sauce 

Fried fish 

Corn muffins 

Coffee 



62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Cheese and nut salad 

Spice cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cottage pie with sweet potato crust 

CauHflower Shell beans 

Lemon jelly, soft custard 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Uncooked cereal 

Minced lamb on toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sweet potatoes and apples 

Biscuit IMolasses drop cakes 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled ham 

Mashed potatoes 

Celery Scalloped tomatoes 

Fig pudding, hard sauce 

Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapes 

Eggs a la goldenrod 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Sardines 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 63 

Rolls 

Sliced oranges Oatmeal cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Macaroni soup 

Cold ham Scalloped potatoes 

Spinach Corn 

Pineapple tapioca 

Coffee 



FRIDAY 



Breakfast 

Oranges 

Griddle cakes with syrup 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Ham in ramekins 

Muffins 

Cocoa shells 

Dinner 

Southern tomato soup 

Baked haddock 

French fried potatoes 

Jellied vegetable salad 

Cheese straws Indian pudding 

Coffee 



SATURDAY 



Breakfast 

Baked apples 
Uncooked cereal 
Broiled bacon 
Muffins Coffee 



64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Luncheon 

Split pea soup 

Croutons 

Preserves Cake Tea 

Dinner 

Veal loaf with mushrooms 

Boiled rice 

Celery Escalloped tomatoes 

Apple turnovers 

Cheese Coffee 

SUNDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 
Baked beans Brown bread 

Fish cakes Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast beef 

Mashed potatoes Carrots and peas 

Apple and date salad --- 

Chocolate ice cream 

Sponge cake Coffee 

Supper 

Scallops a la Newburgh 

Biscuits 

Grape marmalade 

Tea 



MONDAY 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Fried mush with syrup 

Coffee 



JUST HOW TO FLAN THE MENUS 65 

Luncheon 

Baked bean soup 

Apple sauce 

Cocoanut cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Beef and vegetables in casserole 
Romaine, French dressing 
Jellied walnuts 
Chocolate cake Coffee 

WINTER MENUS— FEBRUARY 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Cereal 

Buckwheat cakes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Creamed codfish with cheese 

Oatmeal muffins 

Maple apple sauce 

Cookies 

Dinner 

English beef soup 

Ham and macaroni timbales 

Cole slaw 

Chocolate blancmange 

Coffee 

WEDNESDAY 

Breakfast 

Grapefruit 



66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Uncooked cereal 

Creamed dried beef on toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Chicken salad 

Preserves 

Cake Chocolate 

Dinner 

Roast lamb 

Mashed potatoes Peas 

Carrots Apple mint jelly 

Indian pudding Coffee 

THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Baked bananas 

Sausages Corn cake 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Banana and nut salad 

Lettuce sandwiches 

Jumbles Tea 

Dinner 

Consomme 

Cold roast lamb 

French fried potatoes 

. Celery relish Shell beans 

Apricot trifle Coffee 

FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

L^ncooked cereal 

Poached eggs Coffee 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 67 

Luncheon 

Hashed lamb with EngUsh walnuts 

Pickles 

Chocolate cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Finnan haddie baked in milk 

Boiled potatoes Tomatoes 

Asparagus salad 

Valentine cakes Coffee 



SATURDAY 



Breakfast 

Cereal with dates 

Muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Omelet 

Toasted English muffins 

Orange marmalade 

Tea 

Dinner 

Hamburg steak 

Scalloped potatoes 

String beans Corn 

Lemon jelly 

Coffee 



SUNDAY 



Breakfast 

Apples 
Uncooked cereal 



68 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Broiled bacon 

Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast duck 

Mashed potatoes Onions 

Celery Apple sauce 

Mince pie 

Cheese Coft'ee 

Supper 

Pineapple and grapefruit salad 

Graham nut bread 

]\Iarshmallow cake 

Cocoa 

MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Oranges 

Broiled ham 

Baked potatoes 

Rolls Coft"ee 

Luncheon 

Potato soup 

Date loaf cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cold roast beef 
Mashed potatoes Turnips 

Cabbage and apple salad 

Steamed chocolate pudding — Creamy sauce 

Coft'ee 

TUESDAY 

Breakfast 
Grapes 



JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 69 

Fried fish 
Biscuits Coffee 

Luncheon 

Rice waffles with maple syrup 

Grapefruit 

Tea 

Dinner 

Duck soup 

Vegetables en casserole 

Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce 

Coffee 



WEDNESDAY 



Breakfast 

Grapes 
Hamburg steak 
Baked potatoes 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Potato puffs 

Maple apple sauce 

Nut cookies Tea 

Dinner 

Baked fresh ham 

Potatoes Cauliflower 

Spinach salad Orange sherbet 

Cocoanut cake 

Coffee 



BREAD 



By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 




HE term bread to the American means a 
product made of white flour. I am not an 
enemy of white flour, but I am a friend of 
whole wheat flour. _ There are many brands 
of white flour. For practical purposes in 
the kitchen we need only consider flour for 
bread making and for pastry making. The 
difference between these two classes of flours is chemical 
and correspondingly physical. Bread making flours are 
those which have a high content of very sticky gluten. 
This characteristic favors the entangling of bubbles of 
gas produced in the leavening process and their subse- 
quent expansion held in the meshes of the gluten to 
make a porous bread. In pastry the leavening process 
is of less importance and hence a flour with a smaller 
content of gluten, a less sticky kind, may be employed. 
Or, again, a flour of second grade containing a great deal 
of what is known as middlings may be very useful for 
pastry making, especially when the whiteness of the fin- 
ished product is not a matter of very great importance. 
White flour is the typical product for bread making in 
the United States. In Germany and Russia rye is the 
principal source of bread, and rye is used among our 
own foreign-born citizens to a large extent. Indian corn 
ranks next to wheat as a source of bread supply in the 
United States. This is especially true in the border 

71 



^2 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

and southern states, where a meal without corn bread is 
considered incomplete. There is no very great differ- 
ence in the nutritive properties of the different cereals. 
Indian corn has less protein and the protein is less 
suitable for very young children. Oat flour has the 
largest amount of protein, and it is quite suitable for 
nutritive purposes, though it does not rank high as a 
bread maker. Barley, rye, and buckwheat occupy in- 
termediate positions. 

So important is bread that it is a synonym for all 
food. It is called by the poet " the staff' of life." Bread 
making should be an art which every cook should learn. 
With the same raw materials two cooks will turn out 
products so different in character as to be hardly recog- 
nized as kin. The French and Austrians make the best 
bread among the nations of the earth. The characteris- 
tics of the loaf are largely brought about by the amount 
of manipulation, the kind and setting of the yeast, and 
the speed and completeness of cooking. Most of us 
like a bread which is largely crust. The long, so-called 
French loaf may very properly be called the '' staff of 
life " as it might be used for a walking stick. Bread, 
that is to say cereals, is the ideal food. It is ideal both 
by reason of its economy and because of its nutritive 
properties. The cook should learn especially to make 
the so-called brown breads, which are not only palatable 
but highly wholesome. It is a mistake to feed a family 
nothing but white flour bread. It is both a dietetic and 
a nutritional mistake. Nevertheless white flour bread 
will continue to be, perhaps for many years, the prin- 
cipal kind of bread used by large numbers of people, 
hence the methods of making it in the right way are of 
supreme importance. 

In connection with the subject of bread, it is well that 




Cream Scones. 
Recipe on Page go. 




Sally Liinns. 
Recipe on Page 8p. 




Rusk Squares in an Attractive Porringer are an Acceptable 
Dish for the Invalid. 




A Service for the Breakfast Orange that is Most 
Popular where the Fruit is Grown. 



BREAD 73 

attention should be called to leavening agents. There 
are three methods for leavening bread. • First, the me- 
chanical method, which consists in the admixture of air 
or carbon dioxid in the kneading of the dough. This 
method has been highly praised because of the fact that 
it introduces no foreign substances into the loaf. It 
requires, however, machinery and as a rule is not avail- 
able for family purposes. The second method of aeration 
consists in the use of yeast. Yeast-made breads are 
generally the best, whether eaten cold, as is advisable in 
most cases, or in hot rolls, which are perhaps the most 
delicious of the bread products. Good yeast, skillfully 
employed, produces from the sugar of the flour equal 
quantities of carbon dioxid and alcohol. Both of these 
are in a gaseous form when the bread is baked and are 
active in the aeration process. Only small quantities of 
these bodies are formed and the alcohol is rapidly dis- 
sipated during the process of baking and on standing. 
Even the strictest prohibitionist may not refuse to eat 
yeast-raised bread because it may contain a mere trace 
of alcohol ! Good yeasts also add a distinctive and de- 
sirable flavor to the loaf. 

The third method of aeration is all too common be- 
cause of its cheapness and speed, namely, the use of 
leavening powders. These " baking powders," so-called, 
are of three general classes ; first, those made with cream 
of tartar, as the acid constituent of the powder; second, 
those made with phosphoric acid, or acid calcium phos- 
phate, as the acid reagent, and third, those in which alum 
furnishes the acid ingredient. There is a great differ- 
ence of opinion respecting the excellence and wholesome- 
ness of these classes of powder. We all have our in- 
dividual preferences and as all of these powders are on 
the market, and usually correctly labeled, there is no 



74 THE PURE EOOD COOK BOOK 

reason why everyone should not be able to secure the 
one he wants. All of these leavening agents leave min- 
eral residues in the finished loaf. The cream of tartar 
powders leave a residue of rochelle salts, that is, a 
double tartrate of sodium and potassium. The phosphate 
powders leave a residue of sodium phosphate and the 
alum powders leave a residue consisting of aluminum 
hydrate and sulphate of soda (glauber's salts). In my 
opinion, the ingestion of any considerable quantities of 
any of these ingredients is objectionable. Personally, I 
prefer the cream of tartar powders; others prefer the 
phosphate powders, and some believe the alum powders 
to be no more objectionable than the others. " You pays 
vour monev and vou takes vour choice." 




JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 

HE first and most important " must-have " is 
good yeast. I have come to depend almost 
wholly and with the most perfect trust on 
compressed yeast. If your grocer keeps yeast 
at all, it will be fresh, the manufacturer sees 
to that, as the stock of each day is renewed 
and the old yeast cakes are taken away. Still, 
if you keep it yourself for a few days in a refrigerator 
it will not spoil. Yeast which is moist, light colored, and 
of " reviving smell," as an old lady I know expressed it, 
is all right. If it gets dry, brittle, streaky, and smells the 
opposite of " reviving," throw it away ; better lose two 
cents than twenty cents' worth of flour, with fire and labor 
added. Be very careful of the heat of the water in which 
yeast is softened. If you have a thermometer, let the 
water be sixty-eight degrees; if you have to trust to your 
hand, let it be very surely no more than lukewarm. 

Then the flour — it is an invariable rule to use bread 
flour when yeast is to be added. Bread flour will make 
tolerable pie or cake, but pastry flour will not make good 
bread. If, as occasionally occurs, you have flour whose 
nature you cannot determine, use the following test: 
take a handful and close the fingers tightly over it. 
If it remains in a soft velvety lump, even after the fin- 
gers are loosened, it is pastry flour. Bread flour will 
be dry and loose, it will not keep in shape. 

According to the time at your disposal, allow sufficient 
yeast for raising. For instance, if bread is wanted made 

75 



yd THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

and baked in four hours, two yeast cakes would have 
to be allowed to the recipe I have given. There is no 
danger, should compressed yeast be used, of its tasting 
in the bread. This is called the quick-raising method. 
In a temperature of about sixty-eight degrees it will be 
ready to mold two and a half hours from the time it was 
set. It wdll be quite as good bread as that made after 
the slow^-raising method, although I think the latter will 
keep moist for a longer time. 

I have heard many housewives complain of bread 
souring. Bread sours only because of two reasons — 
uncleanliness in the making or the utensils, or because 
it was allowed to stand too long after mixing. When 
that occurs, the yeast has done its work completely, and 
the dangerous bacteria get in their work, exactly in the 
same w^ay as at the point where cider changes to vinegar. 
I have found, too, that in hot weather milk bread will 
sour much more quickly than if bread is mixed with 
water. Then there is the dry bread, with a heavy feel- 
ing about it, both to the touch and to the palate. Usually 
this is caused either by too much flour being worked into 
the dough or by heavy-handed kneading. Bread, like 
cake, pastry, cookies, and biscuit, has a point w^here just 
enough flour has been added and where no more ought 
to go in. This amount it is almost impossible for a 
recipe maker to determine, because there are so many 
flours and the wetting capacities of two are hardly ever 
alike. It is a case of experience. A practiced hand can 
tell almost the instant when enough flour has gone into 
bread by a certain springy feeling. Then tip it out and 
begin kneading. It may seem moist, but it is not moist 
enough to stick if you intervene with well-floured 
fingers between the dough and the cloth. Knead quickly 
and lightly; a heavy hand which pounds bread instead 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DREAD yy 

of molding it will soon thump all the life out of it, and 
the bread will have the texture of cheese. 



Bread 

Put four tablespoonfuls of shortening, either butter 
and lard mixed or one of the good fats on the market, 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt 
into a bread-raiser, and pour over it one quart of boiling 
water. Place one yeast cake in half a cupful of luke- 
warm water and stir with a teaspoon till softened. When 
the water in the bread pan becomes lukewarm, pour in 
the yeast and stir thoroughly. Add five cupfuls of sifted 
bread flour, beating it as it goes in with a wire whisk. 
When it becomes too thick to move with the whisk, use 
a slitted wooden spoon and stir thoroughly, so that the 
flour and wetting may become well , mixed. Add flour 
enough to knead. When it is spongy but not dry, turn it 
out on a well-floured molding cloth and knead. It is the 
kneading that gives it the satiny smoothness and the 
elasticity which are invariable tests of good bread. It 
ought, even during this process, to begin to show bubbles 
in its textiire. Knead them out, as much as possible. 
When dough is put back in the pan to rise with bubbles 
showing here and there, it will be full of holes and poor 
of taste when baked. After the kneading is finished and 
the dough feels as smooth as silk, wash the bread-raiser 
and dry it, then rub well inside with butter or lard before 
putting the dough back again for the second raising. In 
the morning, when well risen, cut it down. By this 
process I mean cutting the light spongy mass through 
and through half a dozen times and then turning it over 
and over to check fermentation for a short time. The 
cutting takes only a minute or two, and one can feel 



78 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

that if it is not attended to for half an hour, the bread 
win not sour. It does not hurt it at all if it has to be 
cut down a second time. When ready to care for it, 
toss on the floured molding board and knead again — 
slightly this time — till every air bubble disappears, then 
put it in greased pans, having each one about half full. 
Cover lightly, set in a warm place, and allow it to double 
its bulk before putting to bake. 

This recipe will make four good-sized loaves. The 
oven, to give satisfactory results, ought to be quite hot 
when the bread is first put in. If you bake it in a gas 
stove, the best plan is to light both burners seven or 
eight minutes before the bread goes in. Set it on the 
bottom shelf, then allow it to rise to double its bulk and 
begin to brown very slightly. Turn out one burner and 
finish the baking in a cooler oven. This does away with 
any fear of burning; it bakes the bread perfectly and 
gives a much nicer crust than if the oven is very hot 
all the time. The management of dampers in a coal or 
wood stove will give the same results. According to the 
size of your loaves, bread will require from forty-five to 
sixty minutes to bake well. On taking it from the oven 
set the loaves on a wire stand or sieve to cOol. Never 
wrap them steaming hot in a towel. Frequently one 
tastes the cloth in which bread has been wrapped, or the 
soap with which the cloth was washed. Besides, it shuts 
the steam up in the loaf, making it damp and clammy, a 
sure medium for the cultivation of mold. Allow the 
bread to become perfectly cold before putting it away in 
the bread-box or jar, then keep it closely covered. 

Swedish Biscuit 

One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of lard, three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half 



JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 79 

of a compressed yeast cake. Over hot water, scald the 
milk and set it aside to cool, adding to it the lard, sugar, 
and salt. When it is lukewarm stir in sufficient flour 
to make a' hatter, then heat in the yeast cake which has 
previously heen softened in a little sweetened water. Add 
enough more flour to make a batter as stiff as you can 
stir. Cover, and set in a warm place for the night. 
In the morning work into the dough a piece of soft butter 
as large as the piece of lard, and if eggs are plentiful the 
biscuits are improved by working in an unbeaten ^gg, but 
this is not necessary. Knead upon the molding board, 
adding flour until it ceases to stick. When shaping them 
use just as little flour as possible, and make into round 
balls either by working on the board or by flouring the 
hands and rolling between the palms. Place in a drip- 
ping pan, an inch or more apart. Cover the pans with 
paper and set dough to raise. As they raise they will 
gradually flatten out. When light and fluffy bake in 
quick oven. This wilhrnake about three dozen biscuits. 



Coffee Cakes 

These coffee cakes are made from the same dough as 
the Swedish biscuits, except that a little more shortening, 
than is directed, is worked in, in the morning. When 
ready to shape them stir enough powdered cinnamon 
into about three tablespoonfuls of sugar to give it a 
brownish color. Take a piece of dough two-thirds the 
size of a biscuit and roll it either on the board or be- 
tween the hands, until you have a long round strip like 
a pencil, six or seven inches in length. Drop it lightly 
upon the board, coiling it round and round, and then 
lightly drop it into the cinnamon and sugar, and from 



8o THE PURE_ FOOD COOK BOOK 

there to the pan to raise. Bake in a quick oven until 
a golden brown. 

Bread Puffs 

Knead raised bread dough and roll three-fourths of 
an inch thick. Cut in squares, rounds, or strips, and 
fry in deep fat hot enough to brown a bit of bread in 
60 counts. 

Parker House Rolls 

Put one-half cake of compressed yeast to soak in one- 
half cupful of lukewarm water. In a mixing bowl place 
four cupfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one of lard, and two 
cupfuls of boiling milk. AMien lukew^arm, add dissolved 
yeast, stir well, and set in a warm place to rise, adding 
sufficient flour to make a soft dough. After the dough 
has risen to double its size, form into rolls, adding no 
flour at this time, but rubbing the fingers and board with 
the butter, if necessary, to prevent it from sticking. Roll 
one-half inch thick, cut with a small biscuit cutter, then 
roll each biscuit to make them oblong in shape, spread 
with a little butter, fold over, and place on the baking 
pan. Let them rise before baking. If mixed in the 
morning, knead at noon. This quantity will make three 
dozen rolls. 

Pennsylvania Dutch Bread 

Four cupfuls of soft bread sponge, one and one-half 
cupfuls of sugar (or a little less), one cupful of currants 



JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 



8i 



and raisins (seed the raisins), two eggs beaten separately, 
and enough flour to make stiff". Do not knead, but stir 
with a wooden spoon, then set it to rise, and when twice 
its original size, bake in two bread pans. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE HOT BREAKFAST 

BREADS 




HE family of hot breakfast breads is a large 
one. The raised roll appears often because 
the bread raised with yeast is almost always 
welcome, and as home-made bread is made 
as often as two or three times a week, it is 
very easy to save a little of the dough before 
its last raising for the morning roll. This 
is accomplished by reserving part of the dough when 
putting into the pans. Set away in a well-greased bowl, 
covered closely, and keep in the refrigerator until early 
the next morning. Then the cold dough is made into 
rolls, placed in pans, and put in a warm place for half 
or three-quarters of an hour, when they will be quite 
light and ready for the fifteen or twenty minutes' baking 
in a rather hot oven. If these rolls are brushed with 
melted butter just before they go into the oven, it will 
insure a rich tender crust. A little butter and a very 
little sugar and occasionally an ^gg are often worked into 
the dough when making into rolls, as this secures a rich 
roll. 

Wherever clarified fat is suggested for uses in the 
place of butter, double the quantity of salt should be 
used. The drop biscuit and the split rolls are suggested 
for use at luncheon, afternoon tea, or for supper, in the 
place of a sandwich. These, if filled with a salad may- 



82 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

onnaise mixture, or any good sandwich filling, will prove 
a most satisfactory and dainty substitute for the bread 
sandwich. 

Sally Lunn 

At ten or eleven o'clock cream four tablespoonfuls of 
butter, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, then two yolks 
of eggs, beaten, one teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful 
of milk. Xow add one-half a yeast cake dissolved in 
two tablespoonfuls of tepid water and three cupfuls of 
flour. Beat well, add the two whites beaten stiff. Put 
in a buttered, round pan with a center tube. In the 
morning bake in a moderate oven half an hour. Cover 
Avith maple sugar boiled down to almost a candy. This 
will form a crisp crust and be delicious. 



Ragga Muffin 

Roll bread dough out in thin, long strips, spread them 
with a hard sauce of butter and sugar creamed together 
and flavor with vanilla, nutmeg, or cinnamon, sprinkle 
with currants and raisins, roll up and cut into buns. 
When light, bake and glaze over with sugar and hot 
water. 

Graham Crisps 

^lix two cupfuls of graham flour with one teaspoonful 
of salt and one cupful of water. Roll out rather thin. 
Cut into rounds. Put a layer on a greased pan, brush 
them with melted butter and put on another layer, pinch 
edges together, brush again with butter, prick clear 




Ragga Muffins. 
Recipe on Page 82. 




Parker House Rolls. 
Recipe on Page 80. 




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JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 83 

through both layers in several places and bake twenty 
minutes in a hot oven. 



Raised Split Rolls 

In the evening, perhaps just after dinner, take one cup- 
ful of hot potato, v^hich has been pressed through a 
coarse sieve — the potato may be either boiled, steamed, 
or baked — and mix it v^ith two tablespoonfuls of lard 
and the same of butter — both soft, but not melted. Now 
add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-half 
cupful of tepid milk, add one tablespoonful of sugar, 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one tgg yolk, well beaten. 
Stir weir and sift in one and one-half cupfuls of flour. 
Beat again and add egg white beaten stifif, and place bowl 
in a warm place until sponge is light and double in bulk ; 
then add enough flour to- knead, but use as little flour as 
possible. About ten o'clock roll out very thin, less than 
one-quarter of an inch, cut with finger biscuit cutter, 
place on well-buttered tin and brush each one with melted 
butter. Put another layer of biscuit on top of these, 
brush tops with melted butter, cover and set in very cool 
place until morning. Then put the biscuits in a warm 
place to rise. When double in bulk again — this will take 
about half an hour — bake about fifteen minutes in a hot 
oven. The secret of their success is to roll them very, 
very thin. 

Entire Wheat or Graham Muffin 

Mix one cupful of flour, one cupful of entire wheat or 
graham flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three and one- 
half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful 



84 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of butter or clarified fat, 
melted. Add one cupful of milk and one tgg beaten 
separately. Half fill buttered mufiin pans and bake 
twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. 



Entire Wheat Pancakes 

Mix one cupful of entire w^heat with one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
thin with milk, add ^gg yolk, beaten ; then, the last mo- 
ment, the white beaten stiff. Bake on a griddle. 



Raised MufHn 

To one cupful of scalded milk and one cupful of boiled 
water add three tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- 
fuls sugar, and one teaspoonful of salt. Cool and add 
one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-quarter cupful 
of warm water, one tgg yolk, and three and one-half 
cupfuls of flour. Then fold in the &gg white, beaten 
stiff. Beat w^ell, cover, and let raise until morning. But- 
ter muffin rings, fill half full, let raise half an hour, and 
bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. 



Buckwheat Cakes 

Soak one-third cupful of fine bread crumbs in two cup- 
fuls of scalded milk thirty minutes ; add one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one-half 
cupful of water, and real buckwheat to make a batter 
thin enough to pour. In the morning, stir well, add one 



JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 85 

tablespoonful of molasses, one-quarter teaspoonful of 
soda in one-quarter cupful of lukewarm water, and bake 
on a griddle. Save one-half cupful of the mixture for 
" seed." This " seed " should be put in a glass jar, cov- 
ered, and put on ice or in a cool place until required again 
and then used in the following manner : Put two cupfuls 
of water or milk in a bowl at night: add enough buck- 
wheat to make a thin batter, then add the " seed." Cover 
and put in a warm place to rise. In the morning add 
salt, molasses, and soda and a little bread flour, if neces- 
sary, to make batter the right consistency. These should 
be baked as soon as the soda is put in. One tablespoonful 
of maple syrup improves them if added just before 
baking. Use the old-fashioned buckwheat flour. 



Apple Johnnycake 

Very few people have ever heard of this old-fashioned 
dish, apple johnnycake, which is always an acceptable 
addition to the breakfast menu. Make as follows : One 
cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one tablespoonful of melted butter or 
shortening, one cupful of cornmeal, and two-thirds of a 
cupful of flour sifted together with one-quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Cut into small pieces four apples and 
stir well into the batter. Bake in a quick oven. 



Nut Bread 

Sift together four cupfuls of flour and four teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder. To one-half of this, add one 
cupful of chopped walnut meats and half a cupful of 



86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

raisins. Now beat together three-fourths of a cupful of 
sugar, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and one ^gg. 
Add the sifted flour, then the flour containing the nuts 
and raisins. Put it in two well-greased pans, let it stand 
about twenty minutes, and bake for nearly an hour in a 
moderate oven. 

Custard Corn Bread 

Four cupfuls of boiling milk, and three cupfuls of 
cornmeal. Stir the meal into the milk as for mush, add 
one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, and 
let this cool. When cool add two well-beaten eggs, one 
teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. Bake as other corn bread. 



Rough Robin 

Six cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of rice flour, one cup- 
ful of lard or butter, one cupful of sugar, three cupfuls 
of currants, three cupfuls of Sultana raisins, three tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of ground 
caraway seeds, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and half 
a teaspoonful of salt. Rub the butter or lard into the 
flour and rice flour, add the sugar, baking powder, salt, 
spices, and fruit. Mix with buttermilk to make a stiff 
batter. Turn into a large buttered and floured cake tin. 
Bake slowly for two hours. 

Bishop's Bread 

Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one cupful of raisins, 
one cupful of split, unblanched almonds, two cupfuls of 



JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 87 

flour, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Flavor with 
lemon or vanilla. Beat the eggs and sugar until very 
light. Then add flour, soda, and cream of tartar, and 
lastly the nuts and raisins. Spread in thin sheet on but- 
tered tin, and cut in small oblongs or squares before it is 
cold. 

Hominy Spoon Bread 

Beat one ^gg light without separating, add one-half 
cupful of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and two cup- 
fuls of boiled hominy. Make a smooth mixture and 
pour into a baking dish. Put a few small pieces of but- 
ter, measuring one rounded teaspoonful in all, over the 
top and bake in a moderately hot oven from twenty to 
thirty minutes. It should be firm and of a golden brown 
color when done. Boiled rice may be used in place of 
hominy if desired. The bread should be brought to the 
table in the dish in which it is baked, and served with a 
spoon. 

Buttermilk Biscuit 

To one cupful of buttermilk add one-half teaspoonful 
of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls 
of butter or shortening, and sifted flour to make a dough. 
Knead until smooth and elastic as for light bread. Roll 
out one-half inch thick, cut out, and bake in a quick 
oven for ten or fifteen minutes. 

Buttermilk Spoon Biscuit 

One quart of buttermilk, one teaspoonful each of soda 
and salt, two tablespoonfuls of soft butter or shortening, 



88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem 
pans and bake in a quick oven. 

Peanut Butter Pinwheels 

Sift, then measure two cupfuls of flour. Sift again 
with one-half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder. Work into this two tablespoonfuls of 
shortening and mix to a dough, stiff enough to roll, with 
milk. About three-fourths of a cup will be needed. 
Roll out lightly into a strip one-half inch thick, spread 
with a very thin layer of softened peanut butter. Roll 
up like a jelly roll and cut in half-inch slices. Put them 
on a buttered cookie sheet or biscuit tin so they will 
not touch. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. 

Cream Rye Gems 

One cupful of cream, two cupfuls of sour milk or 
buttermilk, one-half cupful of sugar, one well beaten tgg, 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda. 
Thicken to a stiff batter with one part of white flour to 
two parts of rye. If sour cream is used, add another half 
teaspoonful of soda. Bake in gem pans in a quick oven. 

Sour Cream Biscuit 

One cupful of sour cream, one-half cupful of sour 
milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one-half teaspoonful of 
salt, and flour to make a soft dough ; about one quart. 
Handle as little as possible, roll thin, and bake in a hot 
oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Note : If there is 
any doubt about the state of sourness of the milk and 




Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. 
Rolling and Cutting the Dough. 




Peanut Butter Pin-wheels. Page 88. 










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JUST HOW TO MAKE BRTAD 89 

cream, add three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, as if 
sweet milk were used. 



Brioche Cakes 

Add one-fourth cupful of sugar to one cupful of 
scalded milk. When lukewarm add one-third yeast-cake 
softened in warm water, then add one and one-half cup- 
fuls of flour, and let rise. When bubbly, add two eggs, 
beaten, one-fourth cup melted butter, one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of salt, the grated rind and juice of half a 
lemon, and one and one-half cupfuls more flour. Cover 
and let rise until light. Mold on a board to horseshoe 
shape and let rise again. Bake twenty minutes in a 
moderate oven. 



Sally Lunns 

Four cupfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
four tablespoonfuls of butter, quarter of a teaspoonful 
of salt, one yeast cake, two eggs, half a cupful of milk, 
and water. Crumble the yeast cake into a cup, put with 
it one teaspoonful of flour and sugar. Half fill the cup 
with lukewarm water, stand in a warm place for a 
quarter of an hour. Sift into a bowl the flour, salt, and 
sugar, rub in the butter. Pour the yeast into the center 
of the flour, and the eggs well beaten, milk, and enough 
lukewarm water to make a very soft dough. Mix and 
beat well with a wooden spoon, set in a warm place to 
rise for one hour. Grease three round cake tins, place 
the mixture equally in these. Stand in a warm place till 
risen to the top of the tins. Brush over with beaten eggs. 
Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. They should be 



90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

lightly browned all over. Stand a minute before turning 
out. They may be buttered and eaten fresh, but are 
usually split in three and toasted when a day old. 



Cream Scones 

Sift two cupfuls of flour with three teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Mix 
with one-fourth cupful of butter, then one-half cupful of 
cream with two beaten eggs. i\lix lightly, cut in tri- 
angles, and bake in a hot oven. 

Buckwheat Cakes 

Pour a pint of boiling water or milk on half a cup of 
fine cornmeal ; add half a teaspoonful of salt. ]\Iix well, 
and when lukewarm add half a cup of white flour, one 
cup of buckwheat flour, one-fourth cup of yeast or one 
softened yeast cake. Beat vigorously. Let it rise over- 
night. In the morning stir down and beat again. When 
risen and ready to bake, add one saltspoonful of soda, 
sifted through a strainer. Beat again, and fry in large 
cakes. Buckwheat cakes, even if not really sour, usually 
require the addition of soda just before baking, to make 
them light and tender. They should be eaten only in 
very cold weather, and but seldom even then. They taste 
better and brown better when made with boiling milk in- 
stead of water. 

Graham Gems 

One-half cupful of good syrup or brown sugar, one 
cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half 



JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 91 

teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter (melted), 
graham flour enough to make a stiff batter. Mix in the 
order given, and bake in hissing-hot gem-pans. 



Spider Corn Cake 

Sift together three-fourths of a cupful of cornmeal, 
one-fourth cupful flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of soda. 
Beat one ^gg until light; add one cupful of sour milk, one 
tablespoonful of melted butter, and combine with' dry 
ingredients. Turn into a well-buttered iron frying-pan. 
Pour over the mixture one cupful of sweet milk. Bake 
in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. 



92 AW RE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 93 



94 MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 



RICE 



By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 




ICE is a cereal which is rarely, if ever, used in 
bread making. It is, however, an important 
article of diet, consisting largely of starch, 
and furnishing an abundant source of heat 
and energy. In order to secure the best, 
nutritional rice, only unpolished kernels 
should be used. These, however, are not 
found very generally on the market because our people 
seem to have a passion, in cereals at least, for that which 
is pure white. Rice is often adulterated, that is, it is 
coated with glucose, talc, paraffin, etc. The purpose of 
treating rice in this way is to make it look better and 
thus appeal to the eye of the purchaser and consumer. 
In doing this, however, it loses often its right to appeal 
to the nutrition of the consumer. The average content 
of protein in polished rice is about seven per cent, while 
the protein of wheat is 12.25 per cent. On the other 
hand, rice has nearly eighty per cent, of starch, while 
wheat has a little over seventy per cent. Rice, there- 
fore, is not to be regarded as the equal of the ordinary 
cereals, as a builder of protein tissues, but it is superior 
to them in its power to furnish heat and energy, hence a 
diet of rice for a hard working man is ideal, because 
of the amount of heat required to furnish the energy for 
the labor. People of sedentary habits should be careful, 
however, not to eat too much rice. 

95 



96 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

The unpolished rice contains about eight per cent. 
of protein, and more than twice as much fat and mineral 
ingredients as the unpolished kernels. Recent inves- 
tigations indicate that vitamins, constituents which are 
of the greatest importance, are also lost when the outer 
coating of the rice is removed, and the absence of these 
and the other ingredients lost in polishing doubtless 
accounts for the occurrence of beri-beri among people 
living exclusively on polished rice, thus indicating the 
value of the materials removed, though the results, of 
course, are not so dire when rice forms only a part of 
the menu. Such facts are of great importance, however, 
in indicating the dangers and losses arising from the 
manipulation of natural foods and their over-refinement. 



JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 




OW comes a time when potatoes are high in 
price and may soar higher; why wouldn't it 
be a good plan to use rice sometimes instead 
of potatoes — rice which is not only a good 
cereal, vegetable, and dessert, but an unex- 
celled "left-over"? 

Rice is most valuable as a starchy food. It 
has more starch than potatoes, although it has less tissue 
building material. It has a very slight mineral content 
and practically no fat. In fact it has less fat than any 
cereal that we use. It furnishes heat and energy, and 
is well adapted as a food for those engaged in hard 
physical labor, or extreme exertion. Rice is not adapted, 
on account of the lack of proteid and fat, for a sole 
article of diet, but it is an admirable carrier for eggs, 
milk, and cheese, which impart to rice a valuable position 
in our dietary. In this way, strange to say, rice has come 
to be called an exclusive food in some Oriental nations, 
where it is used in combination with condiments to stimu- 
late digestion, and with eggs, tomatoes, curries, cheese, 
for their added food value. 

The Eastern rice has more nitrogenous value than 
most of the rice grown in America. The rice that we 
use in America is often highly polished — for appearance' 
sake — and is often coated with talc, to render the brown- 
ish kernels white and attractive. The public should de- 
mand either the unpolished rice, which has more nutri- 
tive value, or insist upon a digestible coating. This 

97 



98 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

should not only be a nutritive saving but a money one, 
as the polishing process is an added cost to the produc- 
tion of American rice. At present, however, unpolished 
rice is more expensive because of the small demand for it. 

'* It is a disgrace that the most intelligent nation in the 
world should be so ignorant of the food value of the 
crops on which more people live than on any other, that 
they should insist on having their rice made as shiny as 
polished glass beads, although in so doing they are throw- 
ing away the best part of it. Xo rice eating people treat 
their rice as we do, and it is to be hoped that the small 
markets that have been started for the unpolished rice 
will lead to a general propaganda," so said the late Ellen 
H. Richards, the home economics' leader. 

Most of the rice used and grown in Louisiana and 
Texas is Kiusha, — from Japan originally, — a short kernel 
which does not break as readily in the polishing process 
as the long grain, golden Carolinian rice. Buy the best 
quality of rice whose kernels are not mashed and broken. 
This is the first step in cooking rice successfully. Al- 
though there are numerous methods employed, yet every- 
one seems to agree that rice should be dry. and each 
kernel separate and distinct. All the Eastern nations like 
their rice harder than we, even as the Italians think that 
we cook our macaroni until it is too soft. Perhaps the 
rice eating people unconsciously feel that if their rice is 
hard, they are forced to masticate it more thoroughly, 
and thereby digest it more completely. 

Cook the polished rice in the following way in order 
to remove practically all the talc coating. Do not wash 
first, but place directly into plenty of rapidly boiling salted 
water. Boil hard twenty minutes, then pour all through 
a colander and wash the rice in plenty of hot water. 
When washed, place all in the oven to steam and dry. If 




Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. 
Recipe on Page JJ5. 




A Chafing Dish and Alcohol Lamp. The Casserole is an 
Attractive Novelt^). 



Rice Steamed in One of the Xewesf of Kitchen Novelties: 
a Rice Ball. Recipe on Page pp. 




Raised Miiffijis. 
Recipe on Page 84. 



JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 99 

washed before being cooked, the tale is not entirely re- 
moved as it has a tendency to stick on. It is not advis- 
able to use the water in which this rice was boiled for 
other cooking. A rice ball is now made in which the 
rice is placed raw and the whole put into boiling water. 
When cooked, the water is drained through the perfora- 
tions. This rice ball is illustrated. 

Rice increases from two and a half to five times its 
bulk in the cooking process, its swelling depending upon 
the variety of the rice and its age. The older the rice 
the more water it will absorb. In boiling unpolished 
rice it must be remembered that it should be washed 
thoroughly in at least three waters, or put in a strainer 
and washed until the water from the rice is quite clear; 
rubbed briskly between the hands ; boiled rapidly, so that 
the kernels do not adhere to the pot or to each other ; and 
not stirred, else the rice will stick to the bottom of the 
pot and burn. Do not cook rice with a cover on the pot. 

Rice, like other cereals, must be thoroughly cooked, 
as it takes an appreciable length of time, at least twenty 
minutes, to render its starch content digestible. The 
Indian method, after the rice is cooked, is to put it in 
the oven for about five minutes, with the door open, and 
allow the moisture to evaporate. 

Steaming is the best method of cooking unpolished 
rice, as in this way its scant proteid and mineral content 
is not lost in the water. If this rice is boiled, the water 
may be used for soup or sauce, in order to save the 
nutritive elements which escaped in the boiling process. 

Steamed Rice 

Two and three-quarters tablespoonfuls of rice, three- 
quarters of a cupful of water, one-quarter of a teaspoon- 



loo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

ful of salt. Put salt and water in top of double boiler, 
place on range, and add gradually the well-washed rice, 
stirring with a fork. Boil three minutes, cover, place 
over under part of double boiler, and steam forty-five 
minutes; uncover, that steam may escape. Serve with 
sugar and cream. Rice when used as a dessert may be 
cooked with half milk and half water instead of all water. 



Mexican Rice 

One-half cupful of rice, washed and drained well. Fry 
the rice in one heaping tablespoonful of butter until a 
delicate brown; add to this one-half cupful of strained 
tomatoes and a little chopped onion. Let this cook for 
two minutes ; then add one cupful of thin soup stock, salt, 
and pepper. Cover and let simmer until all the water has 
been absorbed (about three-quarters of an hour). The 
rice when done will be perfectly soft, retain its shape, and 
will be a delicate pink color. 

Boiled Rice, Japanese 

Put rice in a basin of water and rub it between the 
hands, sometimes using the side of the dish as if it were 
a washboard, and literally scrubbing the rice. When 
thoroughly rinsed, place in a skillet and pour cold water 
over it. The water should stand two inches above the 
rice. Then boil over a moderate fire. When the water 
is absorbed and the rice soft, put the skillet on the back 
of the range (cover off) and let all the moisture dry out. 
The rice should be beautifully tender, perfectly dry, each 
grain distinct and very hot. (Salt added to the water in 
which it is boiled is more to the Western taste.) 



JUST HOW TO COOK RICE loi 

Persian " Piloh " 

One cupful of rice, one tablespoonful of salt, three 
tablespoonfuls of butter, four cupfuls of boiling water. 
Soak rice an hour in enough cold water to cover, or wash 
it in diiiferent waters until the water no longer becomes 
milky. Drain, and cook in the boiling salted water fifteen 
minutes, until nearly soft, leaving dish uncovered. Turn 
into a colander and pour cold water over it to separate the 
kernels. Melt the butter and pour into a baking dish ; 
then turn the butter out into a cup. Put the rice into 
the buttered bake-dish, pour the melted butter over it, 
and bake in a moderate oven one hour, leaving the dish 
uncovered. If rice be covered during cooking, the ker- 
nels are sticky and water-soaked instead of dry and flaky. 
If this " Piloh " is to be served with a stew, as is cus- 
tomary in the Orient, two tablespoonfuls of butter for 
baking is enough. 

Baked Rice 

One cupful of rice, one-half pound cheese, one cupful 
of milk, one-half of a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of 
cayenne. Boil the rice rapidly twenty minutes, wash, and 
drain. Grate the cheese. Put a layer of rice in the bot- 
tom of a baking dish, then a layer of cheese, flavoring 
with salt and cayenne ; then alternate rice and cheese 
until you have the ingredients used. Pour in the milk, 
■cover the pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. 

Vegetarian Rice 

Boil the rice until flaky, wash it, then mold into the 
shape of a loaf of bread. Cut the loaf in half and insert 



I02 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

three tablespoonfuls of butter and push together again. 
Grate strong cheese over the top of the loaf and bake 
in the oven until the cheese runs and glazes the top. 
Serve with asparagus tips in melted butter. 

Boiled Rice — Carolina Method 

This, perhaps the simplest and easiest of all methods, 
is the way rice is cooked by the rice planters and rice 
eaters in the coast cotmtry of South Carolina, where the 
famous Carolina head-rice is grown. 

Salt three quarts of water and place to boil. Thor- 
oughly wash and drain one cup of impolished rice. When 
the water is boiling briskly, empty the rice into the pot of 
water. Leave uncovered and keep the water boiling so 
rapidly that all through the pot the rice is in. constant 
motion. After twelve or fifteen minutes drain all the 
water from the rice, shake up in the pot once or twice. 
cover, and place on the back of the stove, or over a faint 
flame to dry out, until ready to ser^'e. This should take 
about twenty minutes. 

Hindu Rice as a Vegetable 

W ash the rice thoroughly, rubbing the grains between 
the hands, and using many waters, until all starchiness 
disappears. Then let the rice soak in cold water for at 
least fifteen minutes — longer if possible. Cut three or 
four large carrots in long, thin strips, as for soup, and 
boil them in one quart of water until it is reduced to a 
pint. Then throw away the carrots and use the water, 
which will contain their essence, in which to cook the 
rice. ^lelt one tablespoonful of butter in a double cooker, 



JUSr HOW TO COOK RICE 103 

placing it, for tlie time being, directly over the fire, let 
the rice fry in it for a few minutes until it shows a 
tendency to brown, stirring constantly. Then add the 
water in which the carrots were cooked, and salt and 
cayenne pepper to suit the taste. Place the rice cooker 
in its proper vessel and let it cook until all the liquid is 
absorbed and the rice is well done. Test the rice by 
pressing a grain of it between the thumb and finger. If 
it crushes readily, it is sufficiently cooked. The essence 
of any vegetable secured in the same way as that of the 
carrots described in this recipe may be used for cooking 
rice as a vegetable. Thus the flavor may be constantly 
varied. 

Cream of Rice Soup 

To one quart milk add one cupful of cooked rice which 
has been left from a previous meal when rice was served 
as a vegetable. Cook in a double boiler for half an hour, 
then rub through a sieve. Return to the boiler, season 
with salt, pepper, and a suspicion of cinnamon. Add one 
cup of top milk or thin cream, and serve as soon as the 
soup is thoroughly heated. Be very careful about the 
cinnamon, that it is only a " suspicion," as too much 
spoils the flavor of the soup. 



Baked Rice and Sausages 

For six persons use one small teacupful of unpolished 
rice, eight sausages, two quarts of boiling water, one 
tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Wash the 
rice in three waters, and then put it into a large stew- 
pan with the boiling water. Boil with the cover off the 



104 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

pan for twenty-five minutes, adding the salt at the end 
of the first fifteen minutes. When the rice is cooked, 
drain in a colander. Sprinkle lightly with pepper, using 
about one-third of a teaspoonful, and then spread in a 
rather shallow dish. Cut the sausages into slices about 
one-third of an inch thick and lay them on the rice. Bake 
in a rather hot oven for twenty minutes and serve at once 
in the dish in which the cooking is done. 



Rice Cups 

Prepare a thick custard by boiling a cupful of washed 
rice in slightly salted milk ; cook until the rice is dry and 
tender, stirring in one well-beaten ^gg, a scant table- 
spoonful of sugar, a few drops of vanilla extract, and 
two tablespoonfuls of cream ; beat until light and pour 
into shallow china cups, placing in the ice-box to be- 
come firm ; when cold unmold and, with a sharp spoon, 
remove a portion of the rice from the center of each cup, 
filling the depressions with sliced preserved peaches and 
a little of the syrup ; cover the top with powdered maca- 
roon crumbs, and after arranging on a baking sheet run 
into a hot oven for about five minutes : serve with thick 
cream. 

' Carrotina Rice 

Put one and one-quarter cupfuls of the best rice 
(picked but not washed) in covered stew-pan with two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half of a tablespoonful of 
paprika (Hungarian pepper), and one teaspoonful of 
salt. Mix well. Place, covered, in hot oven for ten 
minutes, take out, add a good-sized carrot cut into cubes 




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JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 105 

(dice shape), and six cupfuls chicken or mutton broth; 
cook slowly, one or two hours, in a double boiler. Any 
herbs put in must be removed before serving. 



East Indian Soup 

Having had on the previous day a curry of veal with 
rice border, and finding it difficult to serve any which may 
remain, the housekeeper will find this a very good soup 
to use up the meat and rice. Cover that which remains 
with cold water, adding one peeled and sliced sour apple. 
Simmer slowly for an hour, rub through a sieve, season 
more if necessary, with salt and pepper, reheat, and add, 
at serving, one cupful of hot milk or cream, and one 
tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Tiny cubes of 
the meat may be reserved, before rubbing through the 
sieve, and added with the cream. 

Cheese Cream with Rice 

Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful 
of flour, add one cupful of cream, a little salt and pepper, 
and one-half cupful of cold boiled rice. When boiling 
add one-third cupful of grated cheese and a generous 
dusting of paprika. Mustard may be added if liked. 
Pour this over entire wheat toast, spread with minced 
ham or tongue. 

Caramelized Rice and Apple Pudding 

Caramelize one cupful of sugar in an agate saucepan. 
Add three cupfuls of boiling water; simmer and stir 
frequently until smooth, then add half a cupful of thor- 



io6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

oughly washed rice. Boil for five minutes and turn into 
a pudding-dish into which have been sUced five pared 
cooking apples. Place in a hot oven and stir down fre- 
quently until the rice is soft. Bake five minutes longer. 
Serve cold with cream. 



Iced Compote of Rice and Quinces 

Put into a double boiler one and one-half pints of milk 
and a little grated lemon rind. Add, when this boils, 
one-half cupful of washed rice and a saltspoonful of 
salt ; cook until the rice is tender and the milk nearly 
boiled away, then stir in the stiffly whipped white of one 
Qgg, half a cupful of sugar, and one-half ounce of gelatine 
that has been dissolved in a little hot water. Allow the 
mixture to cool, but before it stiffens fold in half a pint 
of sweetened whipped cream and a few drops of lemon 
juice; pour immediately into a ring mold and place in the 
ice-box to become firm. Serve unmolded with the center 
filled with preserved quinces that have been drained and 
sliced. 

Frozen Rice Pudding 

Boil in slightly salted milk until tender a cupful of 
washed rice and stir while hot into a pint and a half of 
rich boiled custard, flavored with vanilla ; allow the rice 
custard to become cold, and then fold in half a pint of 
sweetened whipped cream, beaten solid. Turn into a 
chilled freezer, freezing to the consistency of soft snow, 
when a large cupful of chopped preserved ginger and 
two tablespoonfuls of the syrup should be added. Freeze 
until firm and smooth, and serve in wide-brimmed sherbet 
glasses garnished with stars of whipped cream. 



JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 107 

Rice Croquettes 

Wash one cupful of rice through several cold waters 
and put in a double-boiler with one quart of milk. Cover, 
and cook until all the milk has been absorbed — about 
one hour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, one of onion juice, 
a saltspoonful of pepper, and the yolks of four eggs. 
Mix well and turn out to cool. When cold, form into 
cylinders ; dip these in an tgg beaten with a tablespoonful 
of warm water; roll in bread-crumbs and fry in deep 
hot fat. 



io8 MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE 109 



no MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE 




SOUPS 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

OUPS of all kinds except those thickened 
with vegetables or meats are to be regarded 
rather as condiments than as foods. They 
are usually served in this country merely as 
an introduction to the meal, and for this pur- 
pose they have a value much higher than 
that due to the nutriment they contain. For 
this reason, personally, I prefer what is known as the 
clear soups, whether of vegetable or animal origin. 
When soups contain the whole of the vegetable as the 
pea or bean soups, or when they are simply used as a 
vehicle for carrying animal or vegetable fats, they lose 
their special character as soups and acquire the distinc- 
tive character of foods. A good plate of pea or bean or 
vegetable soup or mulligatawny, etc., when eaten with 
bread or with the addition of rice or macaroni, as is 
done abroad, becomes a square meal, while a cup of clear 
soup like that extracted from the bones of meat animals, 
from which the oil is carefully removed, becomes purely 
condimental. As a rule; I think I can safely say that the 
American people do not recognize the true value of 
■ soups. In many families, soup is seldom served except 
perhaps when company is present. This, I think is a 
dietetic mistake. There is scarcely any dinner that may 
not be made better by being introduced by a palatable 
soup. 

Ill 



JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 

Royal Bouillon 

To make three pints of rich bouiUon, take two and a 
half pounds of lean beef, that has been finely chopped, 
and cover with two and a half quarts of cold water, 
allowing it to stand for one hour; then cover and place 
on a moderate fire, only just simmering for three hours; 
remove any scum that may arise; now add one small 
onion, one carrot, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf, two 
cloves, four peppercorns, and two stalks of celery, all 
cut into dice, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. 
Strain into an earthenware bowl and let cool without 
covering. When ready to serve, remove any grease and 
place in a granite saucepan with the white of one tgg, 
stirring until it boils ; then strain again through a fine 
cloth without pressing and serve immediately. 

Jellied Bouillon 

For jellied soups use well-made beef or chicken con- 
somme. Add just enough gelatin to make it jelly slightly, 
one-half tablespoonful to each pint. Place in cracked ice 
till needed. Serve in bouillon cups. 

Mushroom Soup 

Add one tablespoonful of beef extract to one quart of 
water. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirred 
into two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Let simmer, 

113 



114 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

stirring; add one can mushrooms (cut in slices) with 
their Hquor. Heat one quart of cream in double boiler. 
Add just before serving and season to taste. This makes 
enough for twelve people. 

Puree Jackson 

Cook three potatoes and three stalks of celery, cut in 
slices, in one quart of chicken stock, until tender. Rub 
through a sieve. Scald one pint of milk with a slice of 
onion, a blade of mace, and a bit of bay leaf; strain 
and add three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, 
rubbed to a paste ; cook five minutes. Combine mixtures, 
season to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika. 

Vegetable Stock 

The stock is made by boiling a pint of chopped-up okra 
pods in tw^o quarts of water. Strain them, and set aside 
for the next day ; then bring to the boiling point, add very 
young carrots, chopped fine, — about half a cupful, — 
about the same quantity of young leeks or the tops of 
green onions, cut into little bits ; half a cup of green peas, 
and salt and pepper to taste. 

Mexican Delight 

When making the okra stock, above, to be used for 
the foundation of this soup, add a slice of salt pork or fat 
bacon, and half a dried herring. Strain before setting 
aside to cool. Next day, bring to the boiling point, add 
two sweet red and green peppers, chopped fine; twelve 
very small okra pods, cut into thin slices ; two thin green 
onions, also sliced; half a cup of small green peas. Boil 



JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 115 

twenty-five minutes. Moisten a teaspoonfuK of curry 
powder with a little cream, rub to a smooth paste and 
add. Simmer five minutes. Remove the shell from two 
hard cooked eggs, chop the yolks and whites separately, 
and stir into the soup just before serving: at the same 
time add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. This is always a 
special favorite with men folks. 

White Soup 

White soup we like for the chilly days which come 
occasionally in the early summer or fall. Put three pints 
of milk in a double boiler; add two onions with four 
cloves stuck in each; three blades of mace; a little 
lemon peel, cut so thin that it is yellow on both sides ; six 
peppercorns: bring to the boil, then draw to one side 
and let it simmer for half an hour. Remove the condi- 
ments, add a half cup of stale bread, finely grated, and 
a lump of butter; salt and pepper to taste. Simmer 
gently for twenty-five minutes. 

Spanish Soup 

Chop three tablespoonfuls of red and green peppers 
and cook in two tablespoonfuls of flour and butter for 
five minutes. Add three cupfuls of stock, two cupfuls 
or a can of tomatoes. Cover this and allow it to simmer 
for twenty minutes; then strain and add one-half of a 
cupful of plain boiled macaroni. 

Creole Soup 

Wash and cut into slices one-half dozen good-sized 
turnips, adding half a can of tomatoes, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sweet red peppers (canned), half a teaspoonful 



ii6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of allspice, one sliced Bermuda onion, a scant teaspoon- 
ful of salt, four whole cloves, and a large tablespoonful 
of butter. Place these ingredients over the fire, covering 
with water, bring to the boiling point, and cook until the 
vegetables are very tender; now strain and keep hot 
where it will not boil. Heat a pint of rich milk in the 
double boiler, thickening with a level tablespoonful of 
flour moistened with a little cream ; be sure that the 
cream sauce boils ; turn the vegetable puree into a heated 
tureen, stir in a tiny pinch of baking soda to prevent 
curdling, and very gradually pour in the sauce, stirring 
constantly. Serve immediately. 

Southern Tomato Soup 

To a plain tomato soup made without stock add just 
before serving two tablespoonfuls of freshly grated 
horseradish, one teaspoonful of vinegar and one-fourth 
cupful of boiled macaroni, cut in rings. 

Cream of Lettuce Soup 

Remove the hearts from two heads of lettuce and 
reserve for salad. Finely chop the outside leaves and 
cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter ten minutes. Add 
one quart of the liquor in which a fowl has been cooked, 
one-half an onion, two cloves, one-half tablespoonful of 
sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a few gratings of 
nutmeg. Cook slowly one hour, and add three table- 
spoonfuls each of butter and flour, which have been 
rubbed to a paste. Cook five minutes, add one cupful of 
rich milk, let boil up at once, season to taste, rub through 
a sieve and serve at once. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 117 

Crab Soup a la Maryland 

To one pint of water add one small finely chopped 
onion, one blade of whole mace, one-half teaspoonful of 
paprika, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and bring to the boil- 
ing point; then add one pint of fresh milk, and one pint 
of fresh crab meat. When the mixture boils, thicken 
with two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour. Cook 
two minutes, and add one-fourth cupful of butter, a 
little at a time, two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped 
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and serve unstrained. 

Swedish Fish Soup 

Make a stock by putting head, tail, and bones of any 
white fish, such as cod, haddock, or pollock, on in cold 
water to cover, adding a slice each of onion and carrot, 
a bit of bay leaf, a few peppercorns, and cook slowly for 
one hour. Strain, thicken with butter, and flour, using 
three tablespoonfuls each, to one quart of stock, season to 
taste with salt and paprika, and add just before serving a 
pint of milk, or one cupful of milk and one cupful of 
cream which has been scalded. A few peas make a pretty 
garnish, also finely chopped parsley. 

Lentil and Tomato Soup 

Wash a quart of lentils and put them into a large 
saucepan with four quarts of cold water. Add four small 
onions, each stuck with two cloves, two teaspoonfuls of 
lemon juice, half the rind of the lemon, four large sprigs 
of parsley, six or eight red peppers, two teaspoonfuls of 
salt, and the same quantity of granulated sugar. Cook 



ii8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

gently until the lentils are very soft. Then add a dozen 
small tomatoes cut into quarters. Boil for a quarter of 
an hour longer, or until the whole is soft enough to put 
through a coarse sieve. Strain into a hot dish and add 
some tiny pieces of butter on the top of the soup. Crackers 
or dice-shaped croutons should be served with the soup. 
German lentils will greatly increase the nourishment in 
the soup and it will also be of a richer color. 

Any kind of meat stock instead of water may be used 
to boil the lentils. 



Mock Oyster Soup 

Peel and cut into cubes two small oyster plants and 
cover with cold water, seasoning with a scant teaspoonful 
of salt, a pinch of pepper, one bay leaf, and a cupful of 
chopped celery tops ; cook until the oyster plant is very 
tender, and then press through a puree sieve. Reheat in a 
granite saucepan, pouring in two cupfuls of boiling milk, 
and stir in a tablespoonful of butter ; serve very hot, ac- 
companied by oyster crackers. 



Puree of Tomato 

To one can of tomatoes and one pint of stock add a 
small onion, chopped, a blade of mace, and a level tea- 
spoonful of salt. Cook ten minutes in a saucepan, then 
add two level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch moistened 
with a little cold water, and cook five minutes longer. 
Strain through a fine sieve, reheat, add a drop of 
tabasco and a half-cupful of good cream. This will serve 
six persons. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 119 

Cream of Celery Soup 

One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of flour, one table- 
spoonful of butter, one head of celery, a large slice of 
onion, and a small piece of mace ; boil the diced celery in 
one pint of water for thirty or forty minutes ; heat mace, 
onion, and milk together ; mix flour with two tablespoon- 
fuls of cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Add but- 
ter, season with salt and pepper to taste, then add celery 
and let simmer about two minutes ; then strain and serve 
immediately. The flavor is improved by adding one cup- 
ful of whipped cream when soup is in the tureen. 

Cream of Corn Soup 

One can corn, one pint boiling water, one pint milk, 
one slice onion, two tablespoonfuls butter, two table- 
spoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful salt, few grains pepper, 
one-half cup thick cream. Chop the corn, add water, and 
simmer twenty minutes ; rub through a sieve, scald milk 
with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Thicken 
with butter and flour stirred together. Heat, add salt and 
pepper, and when very hot, just before serving, add one- 
half cupful of thick cream. 



I20 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS i2i 



122 MORE ]VAYS OF MAKIXG SOUPS 




EGGS 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

HE value of the egg as a food product is not 
fully appreciated. Eggs are often used be- 
cause they are so conveniently and so easily 
cooked and also because when properly pre- 
pared they appeal to the appetite. A person 
who eats an tgg, however, should not forget 
that it contains very essential food ingredients 
in an ideal condition for nutrition. The white of an 
egg, though largely water, contains a pure protein, in 
the form known as albumen, which not only is a splendid 
protein-tissue builder, but also lends itself easily to di- 
gestion. The yolk of the tgg contains not only protein, 
but also almost an equal amount of fat. In addition to 
these valuable food products, it is very rich in phosphorus 
and lime, two of the elements so necessary to the build- 
ing of the bones. The yolk also contains phosphorus 
in a peculiarly valuable form, which is known to the 
chemist as lecithin. 

While of late the egg has not been an economic diet, 
it continues to be one of the most valuable armaments 
of the table. The various attractive forms in which eggs 
can be served, therefore, appeal particularly to the con- 
sumer from the nutritional point of view. 



123 



JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS 




HEN eggs are their cheapest and best, in 

May or early June, and before the really hot 

weather has come, the wise householder will 

put away, in water glass, a liberal quantity. 

If possible, " put down " enough to carry the 

family through the months when eggs 

" soar." If carefully packed, and if there 

are not more than three or four dozen in a crock, and 

again if they are kept covered with the water glass, they 

will keep well. 

The present writer is now using the first of a hundred 
dozen thus stored, and finds them good, not only for 
cooking, but for omelets and scrambled eggs. These 
particular eggs cost, including water glass, twenty-two 
cents a dozen. 

Thus it seems only necessary for us as housekeepers to 
look ahead a bit, and there would be less need of " egg- 
less " cookery. The nourishment to be obtained from 
eggs is so desirable, that it is a pity to be under the 
necessity of economizing in eggs. 

Repeated tests at the various state experiment stations 
have demonstrated that eggs properly packed in water 
glass after three and one-half months still appeared to 
be perfectly fresh. For in most packed eggs the yolk 
settles to one side (a sure test of an egg not fresh laid), 
but when packed in water glass, the yolks remained in 
their original position as when fresh ; they lost no weight ; 
they would *' beat up wxll " for cakes or f rostings ; and 

125 



126 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

would keep four weeks after removal from the preserva- 
tive solution. In other words, water glass adds no flavor 
to the eggs, and takes away no flavor from them. 

Dr. Wiley is authority for the statement that the shell 
of an tgg preserved in water glass is apt to burst in boil- 
ing water. The trouble may be avoided by pricking the 
shell carefully with a needle. 

When eggs are cooked in water below boiling, I have 
experienced no trouble with their breaking. 

Water glass or soluble glass is the popular name for 
potassium and sodium silicates. Commercial water glass, 
often a mixture of both silicates, is much cheaper than 
the chemically pure article, and is just as efficient for 
preserving eggs. It is sold in two forms, a sirup thick as 
molasses, and a powder. 

The cost varies. Water glass sometimes sells as low 
as a cent and three-quarters a pound in large quantities. 
The retail price is commonly ten cents a pound. Some 
of the water glass is extremely alkaline in reaction. Eggs 
preserved m such water glass will not keep well, so pur- 
chase as nearly neutral water glass as possible. However, 
it is perfectly safe to use the ordinary commercial water 
glass, provided the dealer understands for what purpose 
it is purchased. It Is true that lime water may be cheaper 
and just as effective as a preservative, but the water glass 
is far preferable from the standpoint of flavor. 

To Preserve Eggs in Water Glass 

If the following directions are carefully observed, 
fresh eggs may be eaten during the winter months at 
approximately June prices : 

Use clean receptacles of glass, earthenware, wood or 
of most any material, if same is paraffined inside, and can 



JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS 127 

be sealed hermetically. I found one-half gallon screw- 
cap glass jars, which will hold fourteen or fifteen eggs, 
most satisfactory, and in every way advisable. 

Common silicate of soda or water glass, a sirup thick 
liquid, gives good results. It should be kept well sealed 
by paraffined or vaselined paper, pasteboard or cork 
stopper, or other cover impermeable to air and moisture, 
to prevent it from hardening. Glass stoppered bottles, 
however, should not be used, as a little silicate may find 
its way to the ground neck, and it will be impossible to 
remove the stopper, later on, as silicate of soda will 
cement the stopper to the neck of the bottle. 

The water should be pure, boiled water being prefer- 
able. 

One part of silicate of soda should be very thoroughly 
mixed with ten parts of water. 

The eggs must be clean, with strong, sound shells, but 
they should not be washed, as this removes some of the 
natural mucilaginous coating. They should be put into 
the preserving fluid, if possible, the same day they are 
laid, especially in summer, but this is not imperative. 
Unfertilized eggs are not likely to spoil, even if they are 
not so fresh. However, it is one of the strongest points 
of this preserving method that fertilized eggs will keep 
perfectly well, if the above precautions are taken. (In- 
cubation is said to start on fresh, fertile eggs, if they are 
kept for about twenty-four hours at a temperature of at 
least 80 degrees F., but if the proper incubating tem- 
perature — about 102.5 degrees F. — is not reached soon 
and maintained, the tgg germs will die and cause the 
eggs to decay.) Hence the necessity for immediate im- 
mersion in the case of fertilized eggs. 

As soon as the eggs are packed in the preserving 
liquid, the receptacle should be carefully sealed with 3> 



128 



THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 



paraffined or vaselined paper or pasteboard, or with a 
screw cap or other reliable and tight cover. This is 
necessary not only to prevent water from volatilizing, 
which would finally expose the upper eggs to the atmos- 
phere, but also to prevent the carbonic acid of the air 
from decomposing the silicate. 

The eggs packed in well-sealed jars should be stored in 
a cool place, especially at first, that is, before the tgg germs 
have lost their vitality. However, the temperature must 
not drop below the freezing point. 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 




.^.^ , HY is it I can never get an ^gg cooked to suit 
ril me in my own house ? " asks many a man. 

Because, oftentimes, the ^gg is put into cold 
water, and the time is then noted, but even 
when the &gg has been in the water the re- 
quested number of minutes, it has not been 
cooked at a sufficiently high temperature for 
a sufficiently long period. The difficulty is to obtain 
uniform results, many factors affect the result : the size 
and age of the ^gg, the size and kind of utensil and its 
position on the stove, the temperature of the tgg (an 
^gg from a refrigerator takes, of course, longer to react 
to heat) and the amount of water. The table-cooked 
tgg is probably the surest, in obtaining uniformly cooked 
eggs. 

Taking all these possible conditions into account, the 
best way to cook or " boil " an ^gg is not to boil, but to 
cook it below the boiling point, say at about i8o to 190 
degrees, F., because the ^gg albumen is toughened and 
rendered leathery and indigestible when submitted to 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 129 

the boiling point of 212 degrees, but remains jelly-like, 
though firm, at the lower range of heat. Soft cooked 
eggs should be cooked below boiling point. Following 
is a test made in the laboratory of the University of 
Illinois : 

'' Using a granite-ware stewpan of one-quart capacity, 
one pint of water was heated over a gas flame ; when the 
water boiled the gas was turned ofif, and an ^gg, which 
had been kept in a refrigerator, was dropped into the 
water. Without disturbing the vessel, it was covered 
closely and the tgg allowed to remain in the water six 
minutes." It was then cooked soft. When the ^gg was 
dropped into the water the temperature fell immediately 
to 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and then slowly to 170 de- 
grees. If the Qgg remained in the water eight minutes 
it was medium-cooked, the temperature of the water at 
the end of the period having fallen to 162 degrees. 

Hard-" boiled " eggs should be cooked for forty-five 
to sixty minutes at 180 to 190 degrees, or they will be 
tough and not mealy. If cooked below boiling point they 
will be more easily digested. Should the shell crack, 
pierce several small holes with a pin to keep contents 
from flowing out. 

Good results with soft cooked eggs can be obtained 
if attention is given to details, and if the cook will only 
remember the experience gained the last time she cooked 
an Qgg in the same way. It is a safe rule, if one does 
not have a thermometer, to keep the water below boiling 
point. A double boiler is a splendid device for just this 
process, as the water may boil below, while above it can 
be kept below the boiling point. It is best, however, not 
to let the water boil even in the lower saucepan. 

In preparing for an &gg dish of any sort, first break 
the ^gg by a swift stroke of a knife into a dish that is 



I30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

not to be used for the mixing. Then if by mischance 
the egg is not up to the mark, it can be discarded and 
will not spoil the rest of the mixture. 

For poached eggs, have the water a Uttle below 212 
degrees, by pouring boiling water from a saucepan into 
the shallow pan, which has been brushed over with oil 
or butter. Break the egg carefully into a cup and slip 
gently into the water, thinking all the time of having It 
float, so lightly must it be transferred. The egg quickly 
reduces the temperature to 185 degrees, which is correct 
for poaching an egg. The top of the yolk should be 
kept slightly emerging from the water. Let the egg cook 
gently. Spread some water over the egg with a spoon 
and when a film has formed over the yolk and when the 
white is firm, lift each out with a skimmer, drain, smooth 
the edges with a knife, if necessary, and place on hot 
toast, which has been prepared beforehand. If the eggs 
are fresh and cooked correctly, they will not need trim- 
ming. Put a piece of butter, some pepper and salt on the 
egg, and serv^e hot on very hot plates. 

When properly poached the egg is jelly-like throughout 
and the yolk is covered with a white film. Egg poachers 
and mufiin rings are often used for poaching eggs. Salt 
and vinegar are oftentimes put into the water to prevent 
the soluble albumen from being dissolved. This also adds 
flavor to the eggs. Half a teaspoonful of vinegar for 
six eggs will be sufficient. Poaching eggs is no easy 
matter. Even a hotel chef will admit this; but a little 
care will bring good results. 

The varieties of poached and boiled eggs reach the 
hundreds. The eggs are cooked with cream, sauces, 
anchovies, and combined with truffles, mushrooms, cheese, 
sausages, etc., etc. The following recipes are variations 
of the "boiled" and poached egg: 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 131 

Deviled Eggs a la Fromage 

Cut the desired number of hard-boiled eggs into halves, 
taking out the yolks and leaving cup-shaped pieces. 
Mash the yolks to a paste, adding an equal quantity of 
rich cream cheese, a saltspoonful of paprika, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a little minced parsley, and two table- 
spoonfuls of cream ; fill into the halves and arrange on 
a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, garnished with stuffed 
olives. 

A New Deviled Egg 

Six hard-cooked eggs, one lemon, one box of sardines, 
melted butter. Take the yolks out of the eggs, after 
cutting in half mix with the sardines, season with salt, 
paprika, and lemon. Add melted butter and put back in 
the white of the ^gg, which is used as a mold. 

Egg Plums 

Dip some hard-boiled eggs for two days in grape juice, 
to color them ; then stick a twig of plum leaves in one 
end of each. By the use of artificial leaves, one may 
serve " ^gg plums " at any season of the year. Serve 
cold as an hors d'oeuvre. 

Eggs Bollerino 

Poach eggs, and make a cream sauce. Chop six or 
eight mushrooms, add to the cream sauce and place a 
small sausage, cooked and split in half, on the toast be- 
fore placing the &gg upon the round. 



132 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Poached Eggs with Creamed Celery 

Arrange poached eggs in a circle on rounds of hot but- 
tered toast; fill in the center of the circle with two cup- 
fuls of celery, cut into inch lengths and cooked in boil- 
ing water until tender (about two hours), then stir it into 
one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce. In making the 
sauce use the water in which the celery was cooked for 
one half, and the other half cream. 

Ham and Spanish Eggs 

Serve poached eggs on thin slices of broiled or fried 
ham. When served on hot, highly seasoned steamed rice, 
they are called Spanish eggs. 

Eggs Poached in Tomatoes 

Stew slowly for ten minutes half a can of tomatoes 
and one small onion, cut fine. Season highly with salt 
and pepper and butter. Break six eggs into a bowl with- 
out beating, arid when everything else is ready to serve, 
slip them into the hot tomatoes. Lift the white care- 
fully with a fork, as it cooks, until it is all firm; then 
prick the yolks and let them mix with the tomato and 
white. The mixture should be quite soft, but with the 
red tomatoes, the white and yellow of the ^gg, quite dis- 
tinct. Serve at once on toast. 

Hamburg Eggs 

Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- 
fuls of soft bread crumbs, and a teaspoonful of minced 
parsley, seasoning to taste with salt, paprika, and celery 
salt. Work all to a smooth paste, and with it line small 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 133 

individual patty pans that have been brushed with melted 
butter; break an Qgg carefully into each, and, after dust- 
ing lightly with salt, cover with a mixture of melted 
butter and browned bread crumbs, cooking for six min- 
utes in a hot oven. Serve in the pans garnished with 
parsley. 

Whole Eggs with Smoked Beef 

Hard cook six eggs, let them stand in cold water until 
cold, and then carefully remove the shells. Heat three 
cupfuls of milk in a double boiler. Mix one tgg with 
two tablespoonfuls flour and an equal amount of water 
until smooth. Pour a little of the hot milk into it and 
stir quickly, then stir the whole into the remainder of the 
hot milk for a minute. Add a dash of pepper and set 
the saucepan on the back of the stove. Season to taste 
with salt, add the whole eggs and about a third of a 
half-pound jar of smoked beef to the sauce. Heat 
through but do not let mixture boil after salt is added. 

Eggs and Cheese Cream 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two of grated 
cheese and one teaspoonful of minced parsley or chervil. 
When cheese is melted add four eggs, well beaten, a little 
salt and paprika, a dash of nutmeg, and one-half tea- 
spoonful of French mustard. Dust with paprika and 
serve on toast. 

Poached Eggs in Milk or Cream 

Butter an tgg poacher and half fill the pan beneath 
with boiling water. Break in the required number of 



134 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

eggs, and as soon as they begin to grow firm, add two 
tablespoonfuls of milk or cream. When firm, place upon 
rounds of buttered toast and season with butter, salt, and 
pepper. Garnish with parsley. 

Scrambled Eggs, Crisfield 

Take two or three spoonfuls of flaked crab meat, warm 
it in cream, beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, season to 
taste with salt and pepper, place in a buttered omelet 
pan, then throw in crab flakes and cream and scramble 
while cooking. This is sufficient for two. 

Scotch Eggs 

Divide one cupful of sausage meat (one-half pound) 
into four equal portions. Remove four hard cooked 
eggs from their shells and cover them with the sausage 
meat. Roll in beaten tgg and bread crumbs, and fry a 
golden brown in hot deep fat. Cut the eggs through 
the center and serve on rings of toast. This quantity 
will serve four. 

Bread, Eggs, and Bacon in Chafing Dish 

Cut fresh white or entire wheat bread into half-inch 
slices, remove crust, and cut in half-inch cubes. Put 
one tablespoonful of butter in the chafing dish, add three 
cupfuls of the bread, and toss it in the butter until it 
has absorbed the butter and is slightly colored. Add four 
tablespoonfuls of bacon fat and a dusting of salt and 
pepper. Toss again, and when the fat is absorbed add 
three well-beaten eggs, and as soon as they are slightly 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 135 

cooked serve, surrounded with bacon, which has baked 
or dehcately sauted. This breakfast dish will serve four. 

Eggs au Gratin 

Remove shells from five hard-boiled eggs, and cut into 
small pieces. Make a thick and richly seasoned milk 
gravy, and fold in the eggs. Fill six green pepper shells 
with this, sprinkle grated cheese and bits of butter on 
tops, and brown in oven. Serve on chop plate, and gar- 
nish with watercress or parsley. Eat hot, — with toast 
sticks, made of bread cut into long strips, which have 
beer browned in deep fat, seasoned, and drained, but 
kept hot. 

Baked Eggs with Cheese 

Butter a baking platter and cover it with a layer of 
grated cheese ; break six eggs upon it, cover with a layer 
of cheese and dust with salt, pepper, and paprika. Pour 
over it half a cupful of cream, cover with soft bread 
crumbs, rolled in melted butter, then dust with salt, 
paprika, and a light sprinkling of mustard. Bake until 
cheese is melted. 

Piquant Scrambled Eggs 

Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces, add a slice 
of chopped onion, and cook in boiling salted water until 
tender; drain, dredge lightly with flour, and saute in 
butter until brown. Beat four eggs, add three table- 
spoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains 
of paprika, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley; pour 



136 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

into the pan containing the celery and cook, stirring con- 
stantly, until the whole is a light, creamy mass. Serve on 
triangles of hot toast, garnishing with watercress and a 
few grilled sardines, if liked. 

Belmont Eggs 

Brown some slices of bread in the oven. Do not toast 
them but lay them in a rather hot oven till slightly brown. 
Moisten in warm salted milk and butter them. Break 
eggs carefully one at a time into a cup and slip into 
simmering salted water one inch deep in a saucepan. 
Toss the water over the yolks till a delicate pink. Slip 
on to the toast, one to a slice, and surround with chopped 
meat heated in butter. 

Eggs a la Golden Rod 

Cook four eggs for forty-five minutes, and when they 
are cold shell and dice them; meanwhile prepare a rich 
cream sauce by adding to one and one-half tablespoonfuls 
of melted butter the same quantity of flour, when thor- 
oughly blended add two cupfuls of hot milk; as soon as 
the sauce boils season it highly with salt and paprika, 
adding the eggs and a heaping cupful of grated cheese; 
cook only until the cheese is melted and serve on rounds 
of hot buttered toast. 

An English Egg 

Select a small, firm tomato. Cut out the stem end and 
scoop out the seeds and soft center. Sprinkle with salt 
and turn upside down to drain. Then sprinkle with 
pepper and finely chopped parsley. Break a raw Qg^ into 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 137 

the tomato and add salt and pepper. Arrange the pre- 
pared tomatoes (not too close together) in a buttered 
pan and place in a hot oven for a few minutes. 



Cheese Timbales 

Beat four eggs slightly, add one cupful of milk, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, 
ten drops onion juice, and one-half cupful of grated 
cheese. Pour into buttered cups or timbale molds, set 
molds in a pan of hot water, and bake until firm. They 
may be tested as any baked custard, by putting the point 
of a knife into the center of the custard. If it comes 
out with no custard clinging to it, the timbale is done. 
Remove from mold to a hot platter, and serve with a 
cream of tomato sauce. 

Cereal Omelet 

To one cupful of any cold cooked cereal add two well- 
beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of 
paprika, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Melt 
one tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan, turn in 
the mixture, and cook with moderate heat until firm. 
Fold, turn out upon a hot platter, and garnish with 
bacon. 

Rice Omelet 

One cupful of cold boiled rice, one cupful of warm 
milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one level tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
three well-beaten eggs. Melt one tablespoonful of butter 



138 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

in a hot frying-pan, and pour in the mixture. Bake in 
a hot oven ; fold over once, and serve on a hot platter. 



Cheese Custard 

Cut bread into slices one inch thick; remove crusts, 
and cut into cubes. Butter a baking dish, and put in a 
layer of bread cubes, then a layer of grated cheese ; pro- 
ceed until two cupfuls of cheese have been used. Mix 
together one beaten tgg. one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- 
fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one and one-half cup- 
fuls of milk. Pour over cheese, and bake until nicely 
browned. Serve at once. 

Omelet Lattard 

One cupful of eggplant cut in dice, one cupful of 
bacon cut in dice, one-half cupful of apple cut in dice. 
First place a piece of butter in a pan. When melted 
add the bacon, the eggplant, and then the apple in 
succession, so that they will all be cooked tender at the 
same time. Season with salt and pepper. When done, 
take them out of the pan with a perforated spoon or 
skimmer, so as to leave the butter in the pan. 

In the meanwhile beat the five fresh eggs, adding a 
tablespoonful of cold water (not milk or cream) and 
seasoning to taste. Proceed to make the omelet in the 
pan containing the stock in which the above ingredients 
were cooked. 

As soon as the eggs begin to harden, throw in the 
garniture of eggplant, bacon, and apple. When the 
omelet comes to a satisfactory turn, fold, dish out, and 
serve, adding over it a little of the residue in the pan, if 
there be any. 



JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 139 

Potato Omelet 

Beat the yolks of three eggs very Hght. Season one 
cupful of mashed potatoes with one saltspoonful of salt, 
one-half cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of sifted flour, 
a little chopped parsley, pepper to taste, and a little 
lemon juice, if liked. Beat the yolks of the eggs into 
this, then the well beaten whites. Heat an omelet-pan, 
butter, and when piping hot, pour the potato omelet into 
it. Brown lightly, turn, and serve very hot. 

Spinach Omelet 

Make a French omelet, using four eggs, four table- 
spoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and 
pepper. Have the omelet pan hot, put into it one table- 
spoonful of butter, and turn in the egg mixture. As the 
tgg sets, lift with a knife, never allowing it to become 
hard. When nearly all the egg is firm, begin to fold the 
omelet; turn onto a bed of spinach, and serve at once. 
Any left-over spinach may be reheated with cream and 
butter and be used for this omelet. 

Bacon and Potato Omelet 

Cut three slices bacon in tiny dice and fry until crisp. 
Add to fat and bacon dice two cold boiled potatoes, cut in 
small cubes, and season well with salt and pepper. Beat 
two eggs slightly, pour them over the bacon and potatoes. 
Cook until the eggs are set, then fold like an omelet. 

Eggs in Baked Potatoes 

Scrub and bake six large potatoes. When quite done, 
prick to let out the steam, then cut off the tops length- 



I40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

wise of the potatoes. Remove the potato, mash, and 
season. Use plenty of milk, two tablespoonfuls or more 
of butter, salt, paprika, and a grating of nutmeg. Half 
fill the potato shells with the mixture and arrange in a 
baking pan. Break six eggs, and slip one into each potato 
case. Cover with grated cheese and buttered seasoned 
crumbs and bake in a moderate oven until brown and 
the eggs are set. 

Ripe Olive Omelet 

Beat four eggs slightly, add four tablespoonfuls of milk, 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful 
of pepper. Heat three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in an 
omelet-pan, add the tgg, and as soon as it begins to set, 
lift, letting the uncooked mixture run to the bottom of 
the pan. Continue until the egg is set but creamy in 
appearance. Add one-half cupful of ripe olives, cut in 
strips ; fold the omelet, and serve with or without a 
sauce. For a luncheon dish, however, the follow^ing sauce 
is good : 

Ripe Olive Sauce 

Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter; add three table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and continue the browning. Then 
add one cupful of brown stock, or one cupful of boiling 
water and one teaspoonful of meat extract, and cook 
until thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika, 
and add one-fourth cupful of ripe olives (cut into small 
strips), and one tablespoonful each of chopped red and 
green peppers. 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 141 



142 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 143 



144 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 




FISH 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

OMMONLY, we discriminate in our ideas of 
animal products between fish, fowl, and flesh. 
From a nutritional point of view, there is, 
however, little difference between them. 
They all are composed essentially of two 
principal ingredients, namely, protein, which 
is the ideal tissue builder, and fat, which is 
the ideal source of heat and energy. But although from 
a chemical point of view they are of about equal value 
nutritionally, they appeal in quite a different way to the 
taste of the consumer. Fish, as a continued diet, would 
soon pall upon the appetite. It, therefore, should not 
be used at every dinner. This statement may be modi- 
fied, however, when we include with fish the shellfish, 
such as the oyster, the crab, the clam, and the lobster. 
By reason of the different properties of these foods, it 
is entirely possible to serve one of them every day at 
some one of the meals without overstepping the bounds 
of gustatory propriety. As foods, fish are quite the 
equal, weight for weight, with meats, with the exception, 
of course, of the oyster and the clam, which contain a 
great deal more moisture than the ordinary fish, the 
crab, or the lobster. From a nutritional point of view, 
fish is an unbalanced diet; that is, it consists largely of 
protein. It is, therefore, proper to eat with fish a highly 
starchy adjuvant, such as rice, potatoes, or bread. I do 

145 



146 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

not mean by this that these should necessarily be a part 
of the fish course. In my opinion, the best way to eat 
fish is to eat nothing with it but the sauce-, and very 
little of that. The vegetables and other adjuvants of 
the meal are best served separately. One important 
thing about a fish diet is that there are many varieties, 
such as the herring and the cod and the salmon, which 
occur in such large quantities as to render them relatively 
cheap sources of protein. It is true that fish are often 
sold at a high price through the manipulations of the 
market at or near the source of supply, but they are the 
cheapest form of animal food available. Fish, when 
fresh, should be distinctly fresh, and when cured should 
be well cured. The intermediate conditions are danger- 
ous. Those who live near the source of supply can well 
afford, economically and dietetically, to increase their 
rations of fish, and all could profitably increase the 
amounts of dried fish used. Dried herring, salmon, 
haddock, and cod, offer a most palatable and economic 
method of increasing the proteins in the ration, a lesson 
that our European brothers have learned and applied to 
their profit. Our American cooks show a painful lack 
of ingenuity in adapting the less palatable and less ex- 
pensive fish and meats by skillful cooking and the use of 
sauces as is done abroad. In Germany classes were es- 
tablished to teach the art of cooking fish and thus extend 
and improve the menu at small cost. The fish recipes 
offered have, therefore, an economic value as well as an 
interest from the gustatory and nutritional point of 
view. 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 




ISH should be a great resource of the house- 
wife. Its use not only adds another course, 
another possibility, but variety and delicious- 
ness to the diet. 

In buying fish select those showing plainly 
that they are fresh; those with bright 
eyes, firm flesh, shiny scales, red gills, and 
stiff fins. Beware of one with dull, sunken eyes, dry 
scales easily loosened, or flesh so soft that it shows an 
indentation if the finger is pressed against it. Fish is at 
its best when eaten as quickly as possible after being 
caught. Frozen fish is perfectly wholesome but should be 
cooked as soon after thawing as possible, therefore the 
wise housewife purchases the "fish while frozen and thaws 
it in her own home, rather than to have the thawing 
done in the fish market. Frozen fish spoils quickly after 
thawing, so that this is merely a safe precaution. One 
cannot hope to find firm flesh in fish that has once been 
frozen, so that this old-time '' rule for fresh fish " must 
be disregarded in selecting fish that are shipped frozen. 
In buying fish we pay for a great deal of waste ma- 
terial which has to be thrown away. This amounts in 
some cases to 70 per cent, of the total weight. So it 
often proves more economical to buy a solid slice from 
a large fish at a seemingly high price than to buy a whole 
small fish at a lower price per pound. 

147 



148 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Preparation for Cooking 

Did you ever watch a guide or sportsman prepare a 
fish for broihng over a wood fire on the shore, or in the 
woods ? The deftness and ease with which he scales and 
cleans it may be employed with as good results at home. 
He grasps the fish firmly and scales it first, w^orking from 
the tail toward the head. The blade of the knife should 
be held slightly slanting against the fish, so that the 
scales fall back on the knife. When necessary rinse 
the blade in cold water and continue to work until no 
scales are left. Then split the fish open from the gills 
half way down the lower part of the body, take out the 
entrails, and wash the fish carefully inside and out. If 
the fish is small, as smelts, it may be cleaned by cutting 
a slit at the gills, bending back the head, and pressing 
the entrails out through the opening. This leaves the 
body of the fish in better shape than if it were cleaned in 
the usual way. When fish are bought in market they 
are generally cleaned and scaled. If necessary, complete 
the process, being careful to remove every trace of blood 
which may have remained on the inside along the bone. 
Wash the fish under the faucet or wipe it off with a damp 
cloth and then wipe it dry. The fish is now ready for 
cooking unless it is desired boned. 

Any fish may be boned, but those with small bones, 
such as shad, or herring, are not so frequently prepared 
in this way as cod or haddock, from which the bones 
may be more easily removed. Before starting work, rub 
the fingers over with salt, so that the fish may be held 
without slipping. Then cut ofi: the head, cut down both 
sides of the fin on the back the entire length of the fish, 
and pull ofit this strip of skin. Loosen the rest of the skin 
below the head and pull it ofi:, first on one side of the fish 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 149 

and then on the other. Now begin at the tail and work 
toward the head, scraping the flesh from each side of the 
backbone and removing the backbone and spine entire. 
A few small bones will probably be left sticking in the 
flesh, but these may be easily pulled out. 

The fish is now in pieces, freed from skin and bone, 
and ready to cook as desired. These strips of fish are 
called fillets, and may be used whole or cut into small 
pieces. Recipes often call for fillets of halibut or other 
large fish. To prepare these cut off the skin which is 
around the edge of the slice, remove the bone in the cen- 
ter, and cut the flesh into pieces the right size for in- 
dividual service. 

To Boil Fish 

Unless one has risen early in the morning and gone 
in a dory to the salmon weir bringing back her fish with 
her to be broiled for breakfast or boiled for dinner, she 
has not known what salmon is. Hard and firm as beef- 
steak, enticing in color, delicate in flavor, this in its real 
home is a treat. And salmon, because of its texture and 
the distribution of the oil in its body, is one of the best 
of fishes to cook by boiling. Boiling in general is a 
wasteful and tasteless way of cooking fish, but such firm 
and well-flavored varieties as salmon and bluefish may 
be cooked in this way. In the cooking of both meats and 
fish there is a Scylla and a Charybdis to avoid, and 
a middle course which must be pursued. Two things 
have to be kept in view in the boiling of fish — the effect 
of cold water and the appearance of the fish. Cold water 
draws out the juices; boiling water wih contract and 
crack the skin. It is therefore necessary to cook the fish 
at the simmering point and with care. 



I50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Place the fish on a fish rack or sheet, or tie in a piece 
of cheesecloth, and place in hot water to which has been 
added a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar 
or lemon juice to each two quarts of water or stock. 
Bring quickly to boiling point, then let it cook at the 
simmering point until thoroughly done, no longer. Count 
the time from the moment the water reaches boiling 
point, estimating from five to eight minutes to a pound, 
depending upon the thickness of the fish, a thick solid fish 
taking longer than a slim, more delicate one. The fish 
is done when the flesh separates readily from the bones. 
When the fish is cooked lift it carefully from the water, 
drain, remove cloth, and serve on a folded napkin to 
absorb any extra liquid from the fish. Garnish with 
parsley or cress, and slices of lemon or beets, and serve 
with a hollandaise, bechamel, or drawn-butter sauce. • 

The decrease in nutritive value and flavor when a fish 
is boiled causes the use of what is called a court bouillon 
in the place of water. This is merely a stock made by 
sauteing vegetables, such as celery, carrot, and onion, 
chopped fine, in butter, adding vinegar, cloves, bay leaf, 
etc., and boiling with the addition of water until this is 
well-flavored. The fish is cooked in this, or it may be 
put in the water and the vegetables, spices, etc., added 
directly to this for the cooking process. 

Fish is often marinated before cooking. Brush the 
flesh over with olive oil and sprinkle it with lemon juice; 
lay on top, slices of onion and strips of red or green 
pepper. Drain the fish and cook as desired. Cooked 
fish which is to be used as a salad is much improved by 
standing for several hours in equal parts of olive oil and 
vinegar, a little salt and paprika, and a few drops of 
onion juice. Drain, mix with salad dressing, and serve 
on crisp lettuce leaves. 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 151 

The Baking of Fish 

The head and tail may be left on a fish that is to be 
baked. Fill the cavity with dressing, being careful not 
to get it so full that there will be no room for expansion 
of the crumbs during cooking. Sew the sides of the fish 
together over the dressing, using buttered string, so that 
it may be easily removed when the fish is served. If the 
fish is lean and dry, lard it as follows : Cut four or five 
gashes on each side of the backbone and insert in each 
a strip of salt pork to furnish fat during baking, thus 
adding juiciness and flavor to the flesh. 

When the fish is to be served whole it should be trussed 
in an upright position, if possible. It bakes more evenly, 
browns better, and is more easily served. It is better to 
keep a baking dish or pan to be used solely for fish, the 
fishy taste being more difficult to remove ; or use paper 
bags. Dredge the fish with salt and pepper; put pieces 
of salt pork in the pan under and around the fish, but 
add no water unless needed. The oven should be hot at 
first, so that the fish will brown in about thirty minutes. 
Then reduce the heat and bake the fish slowly for a 
second half-hour, basting it often with the fat in the pan. 

Slices or fillets of fish are often baked in milk in an 
earthen dish, and are delicious. The bone may be re- 
moved from the center of a slice of fish, the cavity filled 
with dressing, and the top covered with buttered crumbs. 
Bake for about thirty minutes, and serve with a cream or 
hollandaise sauce. Small pieces of fish can be cooked 
with vegetables in a casserole very much as meat is 
cooked, and are a novelty. 

The Broiling Process 

Any small, flat fish may be broiled, or a slice from a 
large fish used. An oily fish, however, is much better 



152 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

cooked in this way than a dry fish, as the fat present 
prevents the flesh from becoming hard. In fact, there 
are certain fish that connoisseurs say should be cooked 
in no other way. 

If a whole fish is to be broiled, remove all scales, and 
split the fish down the backbone. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and if the flesh of the fish is dry instead of oily, 
spread it with soft butter or olive oil. Heat a wire 
broiler and grease it thoroughly with a piece of salt pork. 
Place the fish inside the broiler, with the thin part in the 
middle folded over so as to have a fish of even thickness. 
Hold the flesh side near the heat until browned ; turn 
and brown on the skin side. Broil slowly on the flesh 
side for about twenty minutes more, then broil on the 
skin side for ten. Remove from the broiler to the serving 
platter, garnish, and serve. 

If the broiling is to be done in a gas stove, the fish 
may be placed in a greased tin, skin side down, and put 
under the flame in the broiling oven. Leave the burners 
on full until the fish is nicely browned; then turn them 
down as low as possible and let the fish cook for about 
thirty minutes. 

A planked fish is prepared in a similar way, except 
that the fish is cooked on an oiled plank instead of a tin. 
Before serving, a border of mashed potatoes is piped 
around the fish and browned slightly in the oven, vege- 
tables are added, the plank is garnished as elaborately 
as desired, and sent to the table. 

How to Fry 

Small fish or fillets of large fish may be covered with 
egg and crumbs and fried in deep fat. Wash the fish 
and dry them thoroughly, being careful not to bruise the 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 153 

flesh. Roll in Qgg, slightly beaten and diluted with two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water, and cover with fine bread 
crumbs. Or, if you prefer, dip the fish in a thin batter. 
The outside of the fish must be completely covered with 
something which will cook instantly when plunged into 
the hot fat. Have enough hot fat in a deep frying pan to 
entirely cover the fish. Put a few fish in a frying basket 
at a time and brown in hot fat. Drain on brown paper 
and serve with tartare or some other as highly seasoned 
sauce. Extreme care must be taken, especially in frying 
fish, to cook long enough to be thoroughly done, but not 
so long that flesh becomes dry and hard. 

The three points to observe in successful frying are to 
have the fat smoking hot, a fat-proof covering over the 
fish, and that after frying the fish should be thoroughly 
drained before serving. 

Sauted Fish 

To saute means to brown first on one side and then on 
the other in a small amount of fat. Rich, oily fish should 
not be cooked in this way, as they are already too rich in 
fat, which changes in flavor if allowed to cook from the 
fish and become overheated. 

Wash the fish and wipe dry. Season with salt and 
pepper, cover with Indian meal or white flour. Cook 
some salt pork in a hot frying pan until the fat is well 
tried out. Put in the fish and let them cook until nicely 
browned on both sides. Be careful not to have the fire 
so hot that the fish will burn before it cooks through. 

Halibut in Lemon Sauce 

Three pounds of halibut, cut into pieces, four inches 
long and one inch thick, two onions, medium size, sliced 



154 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

thin, two cupfuls of water, three tablespoonfuls of oil, 
one tablespoonful each of ground ginger and mace, and 
one-eighth teaspoonful of red pepper dissolved in one 
cupful of boiling water, one cupful of strained lemon 
juice, three tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped parsley, three eggs, one-half cupful of canned 
tom.atoes. Wash the fish, then salt it, let it stand for 
two hours ; take the water, onions, and oil, and boil until 
the onions are cooked, then pour this into a bowl. Put 
the fish in a saucepan, pour the onion mixture over the 
fish, also the dissolved spices and tomatoes ; boil until 
the fish is cooked. Beat the eggs and flour together, then 
add the lemon juice, pour a little of the gravy that is on 
the fish into this, beat well so that the eggs will not 
curdle, pour this on the fish and let it simmer for a few 
minutes, place the fish on a platter, and the sauce in a 
gravy bowl. Set aside to cool. Any fish can be used, 
but it will not be as rich. 

Baked Halibut 

From a slice of halibut about four inches thick, care- 
fully remove the bone and spread the fish apart. Fill 
the hole with bread dressing seasoned with butter, salt, 
a very little onion and sage. Cover the top with thin 
slices of bacon. Place on a rack in a baking pan with a 
little water and baste until baked. Set the bacon aside, 
and when ready to serve, place around the fish. The 
bacon will burn if left on the fish until baked. Thicken 
the gravy and serve separately. 

Mexican Codfish 

Saute to a pale yellow a small onion chopped fine, in 
three tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoon- 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 155 

fuls of flour, half a green pepper minced, and a cupful 
of stewed and strained tomato pulp. When the sauce 
reaches the boiling point, add half a pound of flaked cod- 
fish that has been slightly freshened in cold water, and 
parboiled ; simmer slowly for ten minutes, and serve very 
hot, garnished with triangles of fried bread. 



Planked Salmon with Potato Balls 

Have the salmon cut in steaks one and one-half or two 
inches thick. Two steaks of average size can be placed 
on a medium-sized plank. Oil the plank thoroughly, 
place the fish upon it, and broil under a gas broiler, 
turning the flame low after the first few moments. Or 
it can be baked in the oven of a range. Serve on the 
plank, surrounded by potato balls cut with a French 
vegetable cutter. Heat one-fourth cupful of cream, add 
salt and. pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of finely 
chopped parsley. Shake the potato balls in this until 
well covered with the seasonings. Serve hollandaise 
sauce with the planked salmon. 



Baked Salt Mackerel 

Soak one large mackerel over night, drain and rinse 
in clear water. Place in a well-buttered casserole with 
the flesh side up. Or better still, cook the mackerel in a 
well-buttered paper bag. Cover the fish with two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter and sprinkle well with finely 
grated bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper or paprika. 
If the mackerel is not baked in the paper bag add two 
tablespoonfuls of water, being careful not to get it on top 



156 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of the mackerel, which would destroy its crispness. Bake 
in a moderate oven until the crumbs are brown and the 
fish flaky and white. Serve on a platter with thin slices 
of lemon. 

Baked Halibut, Spanish Style 

Have a slice of halibut weighing two pounds cut three 
inches thick. Place in a buttered pan, cover with one 
cupful of tomatoes (canned, or three fresh ones), one 
thinly sliced onion, one chopped green pepper, salt, pep- 
per, one cupful of water, and one-fourth cupful of but- 
ter. Bake slowly until fish is done, and serve with the 
vegetables. 

Codfish Puff 

Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one pint, add 
one pint of codfish picked in small pieces. Place in a 
saucepan, cover with cold water and bring slowly to 
boiling point. Drain off this water, cover with boiling 
water, and cook until the potato is done ; drain and 
mash fine. Alelt one tablespoonful of butter, add the 
same amount of flour and rub smooth ; add one and one- 
half cupfuls of milk, then the flsh and potato mixture, 
and cook five minutes. Cool, add the beaten yolks of 
three eggs, then the beaten whites, turn into a buttered 
baking dish, and bake slowly thirty-five minutes. Serve 
immediately as for any souffle. 

Salpicon of Codfish 

Prepare rounds of crisp buttered toast, covering each 
with a layer of minced button mushrooms, season highly 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 157 

with salt and paprika, and heap upon each toast circle 
a tablespoonful of flaked boiled codfish ; place in a shal- 
low baking pan, pour over a rich hollandaise sauce and 
bake in a moderate oven until heated through. Serve 
immediately, garnished with crisp, blanched celery. 

Creamed Codfish 

Soak over night some good salt codfish. In the morn- 
ing, drain, and cut into small pieces. To one cup of fish 
add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into cubes. 
Season with salt and pepper, and add cream enough to 
cover. Cook slowly one-half hour. The cream thickens 
by evaporation, and the potatoes and fish are very deli- 
cate prepared this way. Serve with fresh tomatoes, 
dressed with oil and vinegar, in the season of tomatoes. 

Salmon Jelly Salad 

Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatin in two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water; add half a cupful of boil- 
ing water, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. 
Strain and place the bowl in ice water; stir until it 
begins to stifi^en, then add one cupful of cold flaked 
salmon, half a cupful of finely cut celery, and two table- 
spoonfuls of peas. When stiff enough, fill small indi- 
vidual molds, which have been wet with cold water, and 
chill. Turn out upon lettuce leaves and garnish with 
mayonnaise. 

Salmon Shells 

Remove all skin, bones, and oil from a one-pound 
can of salmon. Break into bits. Add a chopped boiled 



158 THE PURE FOOD COOK POOK 

egg. Add one cupful of bread (one day old). Stir 
into thickened cream, a cupful for this amount. Fill 
green pepper shells. Top off with butter, and bread 
or cracker crumbs. Bake till brown, and serve. 



Parisian Salmon 

The salmon should be cut if possible from the middle 
of the fish in rather thick slices. After it is washed 
and dried, wrap it securely in cheesecloth and let it sim- 
mer until tender in soup stock, to which have been added 
a bay leaf, two chopped onions, a stalk of celery, one 
diced carrot, and some parsley, then drain and place on 
a hot platter, pouring over the following sauce : Place in 
the upper part of the double boiler a cupful of milk, 
adding, when hot, half a teaspoonful of meat extract, 
salt, and celery salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of corn- 
starch dissolved in a little cold water; be sure the sauce 
boils at least twice, and then stir in a cupful of asparagus 
tips. Serve garnished with a border of mashed potatoes 
and a tiny circle of green peas. 

Salmon Salad 

A can of salmon makes a delicious salad if used in any 
of these combinations : a few finely cut capers and a 
stalk of celery; a diced cucumber, and a quarter of a 
Bermuda onion finely shaved; two tomatoes sliced, and 
four small cucumber pickles, minced finely. In all these 
the salmon is marinated, broken into pieces, and the 
mayonnaise dressing, in w^hich the vegetables have been 
lightly tossed, is poured over one large mound of salad 
or individual small ones. 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 159 

Molded Mackerel 

Clean and cut a small mackerel in thick slices. Place 
in a kettle, cover with three cupfuls of cold water, and add 
one slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf, 
two whole cloves, and six peppercorns (whole pepper) ; 
simmer for an hour. Remove the fish and separate into 
pieces freed from skin and bones. To the liquor in which 
the tish was cooked, add one tablespoonful of gelatine, 
which has been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold 
water. Season with salt and pepper. Strain into molds, 
which have been wet with cold water, placing pieces of 
the mackerel in the bottom. Chill, unmold on lettuce 
leaves, and serve with the following sauce: Beat one- 
half cupful of cream until stiiT, add two tablespoonfuls 
of grated horseradish, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- 
fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one tablespoonful of 
vinegar. 

New England Fish Chowder 

Select a good haddock or cod. Cut in small pieces. 
Slice a two-inch cube of salt pork into strips, place in a 
stew pan, and fry out the fat. Remove the pork, and put 
in a layer of fish, then a layer of sliced onions, and alter- 
nate in this way until all the fish is used. Mix some 
flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with 
pepper and salt, and boil for half an hour. Have ready 
some crackers, which have been softened by soaking in 
cold water, butter each cracker a little, then put them in 
the chowder just before serving. 

Fish Stew 

Clean and cut into pieces any variety of fish, includ- 
ing clams or lobster — or use again any cooked fish. Allow 



i6o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

a half-pound for each person. Place in a casserole a 
cupful of oil, with an onion, two tomatoes, a tablespoon- 
ful of finely chopped parsley, three crushed cloves of 
garlic, a bay leaf, some fennel, a little orange rind, a 
pinch of saffron, and a dash of cayenne pepper; place 
over a brisk fire for three minutes ; then add the fish, 
the firmest pieces first ; cover with boiling water, allow to 
boil hard for twelve minutes. Pour the bouillon over 
slices of toasted bread. Serve the fish with bones re- 
moved, in a separate dish. 



Cream of Fish Soup 

Whenever one has boiled fish, or perhaps baked fillets 
of haddock, the head and bones should be saved. Put 
into a kettle, cover with cold water, add a slice of onion 
and carrot, a bit of bay leaf, and cook slowly for an 
hour. Strain off the liquor, and for each quart add two 
tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together. 
Boil five minutes, season with one teaspoonful of salt, 
one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and add one cupful of 
thin cream. Let this boil up once, season more if neces- 
sary, and, just before serving, add two tablespoonfuls of 
finely chopped parsley. Sometimes one might have a 
few peas left from dinner, and they may be added to the 
soup, or a tablespoonful of carrot dice, giving a touch 
of color, as well as adding flavor. 



Broiled Oysters a la Francais 

Butter ten scallop shells and place four or five oysters 
in each. Alince one large onion, and half a clove of 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH i6i 

garlic, and cook in five tablespoonfuls of butter until a 
delicate brown. Add oyster liquor, with a half-cupful of 
water, one cupful of crisp bread crumbs, and one tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley ; season with salt, pepper, and 
cayenne. Mix thoroughly and fill scallop shells. Dot 
them with bits of butter and place shells on a tin sheet. 
Broil quickly and serve at once. 



Scalloped Oysters 

Crush a dozen unsweetened crackers and put a layer 
in the bottom of a well-buttered bake-dish. Wet this 
with the liquor of the oyster juice, and milk warmed 
together. Then add a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with 
salt and white pepper, and dot with bits of butter. Then 
add another stratum of the moistened crumbs, and pro- 
ceed in this order until the dish is full. The topmost 
layer should be of crumbs and thicker than the rest. 
Beat the yolk of an tgg into what is left of the oyster 
liquor and milk, and moisten the uppermost layer with 
this. Stick bits of butter thickly all over it and bake, cov- 
ered, for half an hour. Then uncover and brown lightly. 
There is no more delightful preparation of oysters than 
this. 

Savory Shrimps in Chafing Dish 

Melt one tablespoonful of butter in the blazer and 
add two or three drops of onion juice; add one cupful 
of cream and one cupful of boiled rice. Shred one can 
of shrimps, which have been well washed in cold water, 
and add to the mixture. When thoroughly heated, add 



i62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

half a cupful of tomato catsup. Season with salt and 
pepper if necessary, and serve on crackers or toast. 

Crabs and Shrimps, Spanish Style 

For this purpose use the best quality of canned shrimps 
or crabs, if fresh ones are not obtainable. Cook two 
tablespoonfuls of butter with one of minced green pepper, 
one-half teaspoonful of minced o^ion, and one table- 
spoonful of chili sauce, or tomato catsup, until brown. 
Put away until required. Cook one tablespoonful of 
butter with one of flour, add one-half cup of rich milk, 
and when boiling add the green pepper mixture, one- 
half cup of shrimps, and the same of crabs, or use but 
one of these and a few fresh mushrooms cooked in 
butter. These could be cooked in the chafing-dish pan 
before making the sauce. 

Crab Rabbit 

Prepare this on the chafing dish and have the toast 
made beforehand. Melt three teaspoonfuls of butter, 
and add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook this 
well, then add one and one-fourth cupfuls of cream, and 
cook until it is thick, not allowing it to boil ; season it 
with cayenne pepper, salt, and a little minced parsley; 
add to it one and a half cupfuls of chopped, boiled crab 
meat; when it is well heated add three tablespoonfuls 
of Parmesan cheese and two teaspoonfuls of Worcester- 
shire sauce. 

Flaked Crab Meat in the Chafing Dish 

Utilize the contents of a can of crab meat and with a 
silver fork flake it into small pieces, adding two chopped 



JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 163 

hard cooked eggs, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, 
and salt and paprika to taste ; meanwhile prepare in the 
chafing dish about two cupfuls of rich cream sauce, by 
blending together two even tablespoonfuls each of melted 
butter and flour and adding one cupful of milk or cream ; 
be sure that the sauce boils, then stir in the other ingre- 
dients, and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast, gar- 
nishing each portion with a little grated tgg yolk. This 
can be served in crab shells. 

Hollandaise Sauce 

Beat one-half a cupful of butter to a cream. Add the 
yolks of three eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly into 
the butter. Season with salt and paprika or a few grains 
of cayenne pepper. The sauce should not be hot with 
pepper. Put the mixture into a double boiler, gradually 
add one-half a cupful of boiling water, and cook, stirring 
constantly until the sauce thickens. Add one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice and remove from fire. The curdling oc- 
curs when the sauce is overcooked or heated. The eggs 
then cook hard in grains, and it gives the appearance 
of curdling. 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, gradually add two 
tablespoonfuls of flour and one cupful of boiling water. 
When smooth and cooked sufliciently, add one-fourth 
teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. 

Lobster Sauce 

Boil a small lobster and remove meat. Place bones 
and tough meat at end of claws in a sauce-pan with three 



i64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

cupfuls of cold water, a slice of onion, and of carrot, 
sprig of parsley, bit of bayleaf, and a few peppercorns. 
Simmer for half an hour — and strain off the liquor. Melt 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoonfuls 
of flour, and pour on one cupful of the strained liquor. 
When thickened, add one-half cupful of cream, and salt 
and pepper to taste, also one-fourth teaspoonful of 
paprika, and the meat of the lobster cut in small pieces. 
If one wishes to use the meat for a salad, the sauce is ex- 
cellent in flavor without the pieces of meat. 

Mock Hollandaise 

Melt one tablespoonful of butter; add one tablespoon- 
ful of flour, one-half cupful of milk, and cook until 
thickened. Then add one-half cupful of butter a little 
at a time ; yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon 
juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful 
of paprika, and a little cayenne. 

Planked Lake Superior White Fish 

Procure a large w^hite fish (Isle Royale is best), have 
it properly boned; cut thin slices of salt pork; have an 
oak board, long enough for the fish and about one and 
one-half inches thick ; put slices of pork on the board 
for a bed upon which to place the fish. Season with 
pepper, salt, and celery salt. You may add other season- 
ings if you wish. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, 
or until a delicate brown. When the fish has been cooked 
twenty minutes, pipe hot mashed potato arotmd the edge 
of the plank, brush the edges of the potato with the 
beaten yolk of an tgg mixed w4th a tablespoonful of 



JUST HOW TO COOK PISH 165 



milk, and set the plank in a hot oven to brown the edges 
of the potato and finish cooking the fish. Garnish with 
lettuce and thin slices of lemon. Serve hollandaise 
sauce with this. 

Creamed Salt Codfish 

Soak the fish overnight in cold water. Drain, and cut 
or pick the fish into small pieces, having two cupfuls. 
Into an iron frying-pan put the fish, with three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and sprinkle over two level table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Stir until butter is melted, then add 
enough milk just to cover the fish, and allow this to 
cook slowly until thickened. Season with pepper and salt, 
if necessary, and just before serving add one slightly 
beaten ^gg, mixed with a little of the liquid. Serve on 
toast, or in a deep dish, garnished with triangular pieces 
of toast. 

Cape Cod Creamed Fish and Potatoes 

Soak salt codfish for several hours in cold water. 
Drain and cut into small pieces. Cut cold cooked 
potatoes into dice, and mix with the fish, having equal 
quantities of fish and potatoes. Put into a saucepan with 
them sufficient cream to cover the fish and potatoes ; sea- 
son to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and cook 
slowly until cream thickens, about forty minutes. 

Shad Roe Croquettes 

Cover one set of shad roe with boiling water, add a 
teaspoonful of salt, and simmer twenty minutes. Drain, 
remove the membrane with a silver fork, and mash the 



i66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

roe. Season with a teaspoonful of grated onion, a half- 
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a grating of nut- 
meg, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 

Heat a half-pint of milk in a saucepan; when hot, 
stir in two level tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed with the 
same amount of flour. When smooth, take from the fire 
and add a half-cupful of soft bread-crumbs, two hard- 
boiled eggs chopped fine, and a dash of black pepper. 
Add the shad roe ; mix, and cool. Then form into 
cylinders, dip in ^gg beaten with a tablespoonful of 
water, roll in dry bread-crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat. 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 167 



i68 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 169 



170 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 




POULTRY 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 



|^=^==ijLOSELY related to fish is poultry. Poultry 
li^ CX il ^^^ fallen into partial disfavor in this coun- 



try by reason of the insanitary methods of 
handling it. There is perhaps a greater 
quantity of unfit poultry offered on the 
American markets than any other one kind 
of food. Things are getting very much 
better now since Dr. M. E. Pennington, of the U. S. 
Department of Agriculture, has studied and made public 
the proper methods of handling poultry from producer 
to consumer. In years gone by, immense quantities of 
poultry have been put into cold storage in an unfit state 
and, naturally, they were not improved when taken out. 
Cold storage, however, may be used with advantage, 
both with fish and poultry, and other food products, 
when these products are in a proper condition to be 
stored at the time of entry into the warehouse. One 
objection to poultry at the present day is its high price. 
We probably pay more for a given amount of nutrition 
in the form of poultry than in almost any other form of 
meat. Poultry, therefore, is, when properly preserved 
and prepared, more a food for the well-to-do than for 
the poor. 



171 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 




FEW simple rules cover the selection of all 
poultry. In the first place, the bones should 
be tender; that is, if one places the fore- 
finger of the right hand in the hollow of the 
neck (at the elbow of the wishbone) and 
the thumb of the same hand at the end of the 
breastbone and then contracts the hand gently, 
if the bird is young and tender the bone will give ; if it 
is old and tough, the bone will be stiff and hard, and 
impossible to bend. The same is true of the wings. If 
the bones are tender and bend under pressure, the bird 
is young. 

There is another test for wings, akin to that used in 
the testing of fish. If, when the wings are pulled out, 
they spring back into shape when released, it is a sign 
of young meat. The same thing is true of the feet of the 
bird. If, when spread apart, they collapse easily, the bird 
is young. The breastbone and wingbones may be broken 
in order to make the unsophisticated think that the bird 
is young, but it is a simple matter to feel the bones 
crunch under such circumstances, when one may be fairly 
certain that the bird is no longer young. 

Another test is that the skin should be firm and smooth. 
The color, authorities say, should be yellow. This is not 
a question of age or youth, but of the breed, and con- 
sequently is not of special value. On the other hand, 
hairs are a sign of age, and while it is said that pin- 
feathers are a sign of youth, this is not true, because the 

173 



174 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

presence of feathers and the color of them depend upon 
the breed of the chicken and the time of year it is kihed. 
Heavy scales on the feet are also a sign of age ; but with 
a turkey, when the spurs are soft and loose, it is a good 
sign. 

In domestic poultry the flesh of the breast and wings 
will be white, and should be firm and not heavily fatted, 
while the legs are of dark meat. In game, the meat 
of the bird throughout is usually dark and the wings 
will be of a tougher quality than the legs, which is exactly 
the reverse in the domestic bird. This is because in the 
one the wings are used in flying, while in the other the 
legs are the means of locomotion, and in consequence 
the fibers will be heavier and coarser. The breast of 
game should, if it is good, be full and firm and rather fat. 
On the whole, game will have a large percentage of fat 
in its composition and be less easily digested than chicken 
or turkey. 

Chickens which are not a year old are known as 
broilers, and at the present time are usually incubated. 
Chickens which are exactly a year old are known as 
prime roasters, and those over a year old are qualified 
by the term " fowl.'' The so-called spring chicken, which 
appears in the market in January, weighs about one and 
one-half pounds. Fowls are the best from March until 
June. Turkeys are the best in the winter months. 
Geese are usually at their best from May until Sep- 
tember. A goose twelve weeks old is called a " green 
goose." Young geese are often caUed goslings. The 
time of the quail and partridge is limited by the game 
laws, but as a rule we can find them on the market in 
fall, while we have the plover through the spring and 
cold storage at other seasons. The grouse comes in the 




Steamed Squash in Shell. 
Recipe on Page ^35- 




Boiled Asparagus. 
Recipe on Page ji/. 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 175 

available at all times of the year, provided we are willing 
to pay the price. 

In general, the domestic poultry should be well cooked, 
and the game served rare. This statement, however, 
should be qualified by the fact that if the game is white- 
meated it should be better done. The characteristic 
flavor is not a sign of tainted meat, as some occasionally 
think, but of breed and life. Game should never hang 
any longer than until it is just tender. 

Chicken a la King (Waldorf) 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and saute in this 
half of a green pepper, with seeds and midribs removed 
and chopped fine, and one cupful of fresh mushrooms 
carefully peeled and broken in pieces. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and cook until the flour is smooth, but 
not browned. Add two cupfuls of cream, then put where 
it will simmer only and cook until the sauce is thickened 
and the flour thoroughly cooked. Add three cupfuls of 
cooked chicken, cut in dice, and put the mixture over 
hot water in a double boiler. Beat one-fourth of a cupful 
of butter to a cream, add three tgg yolks, one at a time, 
beating steadily. Stir this into the hot chicken and stir 
carefully until the ^gg thickens. Be careful not to cook 
too rapidly, for the sauce should be smooth. Season with 
onion juice, a few drops of lemon juice, salt, and half 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Serve at once on toast. 

Wild Turkey 

Wipe the cavity of the body with a. dry cloth after 
rinsing it out with water to which you have added a little 



176 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

baking soda. Have ready a rich force-meat made of 
bread-crumbs, bits of fat pork, chopped very fine, pepper, 
and salt. Beat in an ^gg and two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter. Use neither onion nor herbs in the sea- 
soning, for they destroy the " gamey " flavor. Stuff and 
truss as you would a domestic fowl and lay in the drip- 
ping-pan. Dash a cupful of boiling water over it to sear 
the skin and keep in the juices. Roast in a steady oven, 
allowing twelve minutes to the pound. Baste frequently 
for an hour with butter and water ; then four times with 
gravy from the dripping-pan, lastly three times with 
melted butter. Dredge wdth flour at the last, and froth 
with butter, to brow^n the whole body. Drain off the 
gravy, keeping the turkey hot over boiling water ; season 
with pepper and salt, thicken with browned flour and 
the giblets, which have been boiled tender arid chopped 
very fine. Garnish with small sausages and curled 
parsley. 

Mint Chicken Cream 

Pick into small pieces sufficient fresh mint leaves to 
fill half a cup, covering with boiling water, and allowing 
it to stand for twenty minutes ; then strain and add a 
scant pint of chicken stock, stirring in half a tablespoonful 
of white-wine vinegar, the juice of half an onion, pepper, 
and salt to taste, and two and a half tablespoonfuls of 
gelatin softened in four tablespoonfuls of cold water. 
Simmer slowly only until the gelatin is dissolved and 
remove from the fire, setting in a cold place, until slightly 
thickened ; add a cupful of cold diced chicken, two table- 
spoonfuls of cooked peas, and a scant cupful of stiffly 
whipped cream ; mold in a ring-mold, placing it directly 
on the ice to chill and harden. When ready to serve, un- 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 177 

mold on a glass platter, filling the center with crisp heart 
lettuce leaves and garnishing with tiny pink radishes. 



Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing 

Select a turkey, preferably a hen turkey, weighing not 
over ten or twelve pounds. If the family be large, it is 
better to have two ten-pound turkeys. See that the breast 
is plump, the legs pliable, and do not be governed by the 
fact that the skin is white and fair — sometimes they are 
not so good as those which are darker in color. Have 
the bird drawn, and if possible the tendons drawn from 
the legs. Singe, cut neck close to body, remove pin- 
feathers, and thoroughly scrub the bird inside and out, 
being careful that it does not stay in the water. Wipe 
well and stuff, then truss and put in a roasting-pan, 
breast down. Sprinkle with flour and salt, and place in 
a hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes the first hour 
of roasting, using butter and hot water. After turning 
the bird over on its back, cover the breast with butter, 
and brown. If a crust is desired, cream together butter 
and flour, using twice as much butter as flour. A ten- 
pound turkey needs three hours to cook, and more time 
v/ill not hurt it. The heart, liver, and gizzard should 
be cooked in water until the last is tender. The neck 
may be cooked with them, and this stock is excellent 
for making gravy, or if a bread stuffing is used, for 
moistening the bread. Chop and add them to the gravy. 

Chestnut Stuffing 

Blanch one pound of Italian chestnuts, boil till very ten- 
der, and put through a ricer. Add one cupful of bread- 



178 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

crumbs, one-half cupful of shortening, one and one-half 
tablespoonfuls of poultry seasoning, one-half cupful of 
seeded raisins, with salt, pepper, celery salt, sugar, and 
cayenne to taste. ]\Iix thoroughly. This is excellent for 
poultry and game. 

Jellied Chicken Sandwiches 

Chop the meat of a cold chicken with one stalk of 
celery, or put all through a food-chopper. Season with a 
little grated onion and minced parsley. Soak one table- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine in one teaspoonful of 
water until soft, then add six tablespoonfuls of sweet 
cream and heat over hot water until the gelatine is dis- 
solved. Add the chicken meat, lemon juice, salt, and 
paprika to taste, beat all together thoroughly and pour 
into a shallow, oblong pan. wet in cold water. Set on 
ice to chill, then cut in slices to fit the bread cut for 
sandwiches. 

Spanish Fricassee of Chicken 

Cut up a chicken or fowl, weighing about four pounds, 
in pieces for serving, put in a kettle with five cups of 
boiling water, and simmer until chicken is tender. Re- 
move meat. cool, then roll each piece in seasoned flour 
and fry a delicate brown in fat. A\'ash and cook in the 
liquor one cupful of rice, (which has been fried in two 
tablespoonfuls of butter), with one tablespoonful each, 
of onion and red and green pepper. Add one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. When 
rice is tender turn on to a platter, and on it arrange the 
pieces of chicken. Garnish with parsley. 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 179 
Chicken Rechauffe 

In blazer of chafing dish put one-half tumbler of cur- 
rant jelly, one cupful of cream, salt and cayenne to taste. 
Bring all to the boiling point, and in it place slices of 
cold cooked chicken. Serve when meat is thoroughly 
heated. Any meat except beef and ham may be utilized 
in this way. 

Roast Goose 

Singe, draw, wash, stuff, and truss a goose. Dredge 
with flour and salt, and lay strips of fat pork over the 
breast. Roast in a hot oven two hours, basting frequently 
with butter and hot water. 

Stuffing 

Chop finely two onions, mix with one-fourth cupful 
of finely chopped pork, and combine with two cupfuls of 
hot mashed potato and one and one-half cupfuls of soft 
stale bread crumbs. Add one-third cupful of butter, one 
beaten Qgg, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, one 
teaspoonful of sage, and one-eighth teaspoonful of 
black pepper. 

Russian Apple Stuffing for Roast Goose 

Chop two cupfuls of tart apples, Greenings or Baldwins 
preferred, with one cupful of seeded raisins. Stuff goose 
and truss as usual. The flavor is delicious and quite 
different. 



i8o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Roman Chicken 

Cook half a pound of vermicelli and drain thoroughly. 
Spread upon a platter and cover it with a highly seasoned 
tomato sauce. Shred the white and dark meat of a small 
cooked chicken into fibers no larger than a match and 
lay them upon the sauce. Cut four sticks of celery and 
a Bermuda onion very fine, season with salt, paprika, a 
dash of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon (if desired), and 
cook brown in a little butter. Spread over the chicken 
and put into the oven to get very hot. Moisten with a 
little chicken stock if needed and serve very hot. 

Chicken Curried 

Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one slice of 
onion, one-fourth of an apple, sliced, one tablespoonful 
of grated cocoanut or minced almonds, a little salt and 
paprika, and one teaspoonful of curry powder dissolved 
in a little water. When required cook one tablespoonful 
of butter with one teaspoonful of flour, add one-half cup- 
ful of chicken stock or gravy, and one cupful of diced 
chicken mixed with one-half cupful of cream. Add the 
curry mixture and serve in ramekins. 

Chicken Cutlets 

One cupful of chopped cooked chicken, seasoned with 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of 
pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice. Make a sauce, using two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one-half cupful of 
cream, and one ^gg] add this to chicken, and cook all 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY i8i 

together three minutes. Cool, shape in the form of cut- 
lets, roll in fine bread-crumbs, dip in tgg, roll in crumbs, 
and fry in deep fat. Serve with a white mushroom sauce. 



White Mushroom Sauce 

Drain half a can of mushrooms, and cut in slices. 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, one cupful of chicken-stock, and cook 
until thick and smooth. Season with one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and 
a slight grating of nutmeg. Add one-half cupful of 
cream, and the mushrooms. Serve as soon as heated. 

Fried Chicken 

Cut up a young chicken in pieces for serving. Roll 
each piece in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Into 
an iron frying-pan put sufficient fat, half lard and half 
butter, to make an inch in depth; lay in the chicken, and 
cook until brown, turning frequently. Cover closely, re- 
move to a cooler part of the range, and let cook for 
twenty-five minutes. Drain on paper and serve very hot. 



i82 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY 183 



i84 MORE WAYS OF COOKIXG POULTRY 



MEAT 



By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 




EXT to cereals, meat in the broad sense of 
that term, inchiding beef, mutton, and pork, 
is the most important of our food products. 
It is important not only from a nutritional 
point of view, but also because of its eco- 
nomical aspects. The number of meat ani- 
mals in this country is actually decreasing for 
some kinds, while none is keeping pace with the in- 
crease of population. The natural result of this, aside 
from manipulation on the markets, is an increasing de- 
mand and a decreasing supply. This has worked out at 
the present time into a condition in which the price of 
meats is higher to the consumer than ever before. This, 
however, does not affect in any way the value of meat 
as a food. With all due deference to our vegetarian 
friends, whose opinions I respect, I am fully convinced 
that man is an omnivorous animal. He makes a mis- 
take when he confines his diet to any one particular form 
of food. Man can thrive quite well, however, on a 
vegetable diet. Perhaps this should be modified by say- 
ing on what is generally called " a vegetable diet " be- 
cause the vegetarian as a rule eats eggs, drinks milk, and 
uses butter, all of which are animal products. The lean 
or muscular part of meat is essentially a tissue builder, 
while the fat is a heat and energy former. Some kinds 
of meat, as, for instance, beef, can be eaten every dav 

185 



i86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

without palling on the appetite. In this respect beef 
occupies the same position as wheat and some other 
vegetables. One caution, however, should be presented 
in regard to meat-eating, and that is that it should not 
be overdone. There are two reasons for this, one, the 
economic aspect of the problem, and second, the nutri- 
tional relations of meat to healthy growth. I should say 
that for grown people meat once a day is quite sufficient, 
while for young children who still consume quantities 
of milk, meat is not at all an essential part of the diet, 
and in my opinion they are better oi¥ without it. To- 
day people, especially those who live at hotels and res- 
taurants, eat too much meat for their own good, and I 
believe that if meat consumption could be placed on a 
scientific basis the economic aspects of the problem might 
well be solved and the demand might not exceed the 
supply. 



JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 



Tests for Fresh Wholesome Meat 




RESH, sound, sweet meat is, of course, the 
only kind to be considered. It is, as a rule, 
almost odorless, but has a slight fleshy smell 
that is pleasant to a normal person. The 
olfactory nerves usually may be depended 
upon to detect a tainted condition contracted 
by contact with fish, vegetables, or unclean 
vessels, cutting-block, or scales; decomposition due to 
exposure or undue delay in selling the meat ; a strong 
natural odor such as is sometimes found in the flesh of 
old animals, especially males ; or a rancid state as in 
stale cured bacon and ham. 

There are those who relish meat, especially beef, that 
has " ripened " by remaining several weeks in cold storage 
at about 38 degrees Fahrenheit, the degree of ripeness 
varying from fresh to near-decay according to the time 
and conditions of storage and the quality of cut or 
carcass, and the objects being to improve both the flavor 
and tenderness of the meat. Only fat, mature beef, and 
mutton usually are subjected to this treatment, and, as a 
rule, only for such customers as city hotels, clubs, and 
the commissaries of other large establishments. The 
dark and sometimes quite moldy surface, high (not to say 
strong) odor, and the unattractive general appearance of 
such meats makes it unsuitable for regular retail trade 

187 



i88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

because many patrons would consider it unsound ; but 
when properly handled it is quite as wholesome as other 
foods which are artificially ripened, such as cheese or 
fruit. For ordinary use, two days to a week in the chill- 
room is sufficient. ]\Ieat used less than thirty-six to 
forty-eight hours after slaughter is likely to be tough. 
due to a set condition of the muscles called "■ rigor 
mortis."' 

Considerable quantities of frozen meat, also, are sold 
in retail market from late winter to summer, having been 
stored at about 15 degrees Fahrenheit since the preceding 
fall. If sold immediately after careful thawing;, it is diffi- 
cult to distinguish frozen meats from fresh, but as handled 
in some retail markets they sometimes become soft, flabby, 
and slimy. "When from animals too young to be suffi- 
ciently developed for food, veal and spring lamb cuts 
have gluey or gelatinous flesh and abnormally soft, 
cartilage-like bone. Such meats should be carefully 
avoided. Although not necessarily dangerous it is at 
best repulsive and unwholesome. 



Judging the Color 

Perhaps the first characteristic that catches the eye 
is the color of the steak or chop under consideration. 
Good beef, when first cut, is a rich, bluish red. which 
turns bright cherry or pale red when exposed a few 
minutes. The blue or purplish shade frequently remains 
until the steak is unwrapped in the kitchen, and is not. as 
sometimes suspected, an indication of poor or old meat. 
\'eal varies from almost white to light red, but should be 
a dull pink to be at its best. Lamb cuts range from ligbt 




Flank Steak. A Juicy Beefsteak — Tender and 
Appetizing if Carefully Cooked. 




Inferior Ham. 



Choice Ham. 




Standing Rib Roast. 
This Cut may be Roasted as it is, or made into a Short Rib 
Roast by Cutting Off the End at the Left; or the Bone 
Removed and the Meat Rolled Up. 




Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin. 

Represents Steaks used in Many Districts where Small 

Markets are Patronized. 



JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 189 

pink to grayish red, according to the age and quaUty 
of the lamb; and mutton is a dull brick red. Pork from 
young pigs is nearly white and that from older animals is 
dull pink or rose color. The fat of all meat should be as 
nearly white as possible, free from clots and spots, and 
of a firm, clear consistency. 

Dark colored flesh, in general, is characteristic of older 
animals ; is usually more pronounced in males than in 
females ; and is sometimes due to incomplete bleeding. 
Generally, therefore, it is not of the best grade. But be 
not deceived by color, for it sometimes '' happens," in 
violation of pure food regulations, that meat wears an 
artificial complexion, purchased at the drug store. Occa- 
sionally, too, a cut that is abnormally dark in color proves 
to be all one can desire as to its " eating qualities." The 
latter statement applies especially to the outer fat which, 
in beef cuts, is sometimes quite yellow, it applies also to 
dried and smoked meats, some of which can be appre- 
ciated only by tasting. 

Now a few words which will serve to guide the reader 
to recognize the general appearance of good beef. Be- 
sides soundness and proper color, a tempting appearance 
in meat requires good shape — full, thick, and plump ac- 
cording to the kind of cut — even, smoothly cut surfaces, 
firm condition and absence of all indications of coarseness 
in the flesh and bone. Words can scarcely describe that 
subtle something called general quality; it must be im- 
pressed by actual observation of the details we are at- 
tempting to define ; by careful attention, for example, to 
the size and shape of the " eye " of a rib-roast ; the 
amount, character, and color of bone, as well as meat 
in a pork chop, the smoothness, thinness, and quality or 
rind on a strip of breakfast bacon. 

As an exception to the rule, the unfavorable influence 



I90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of the ripening process upon external appearance has 
already been mentioned. Certain kinds of cured meat, 
as for example V^irginia hams, which hang for a year 
or two before being used, are most shrunken and un- 
sightly; but the price commanded by such meats (fifty 
cents a pound for Smithfield hams) testifies to their inner 
goodness. 

Signs of Tenderness 

Toughness is the shortcoming that causes more com- 
plaints than any other characteristic of our daily meat; 
so much so, indeed, that more essential points are usually 
sacrificed to overcome it. For instance, veal is in con- 
stant demand even at high prices, merely because it is 
naturally tender; whereas mature beef is much more 
nutritious, has a decidedly richer flavor, loses less weight 
in cooking and, furthermore, if properly cooked, may be 
made practically as tender. 

Although no infallible rule can be stated that will cer- 
tainly indicate w^hether a given cut will turn out tender 
w^hen cooked, nevertheless careful observation w^ill assist 
greatly in making a good guess. Look for fine, smooth 
grain or fiber, little connective tissue, a velvety, pliable 
feeling, and such consistency that the flesh may be pene- 
trated with the finger or easily cut with a knife, yet firm 
in condition rather than soft and flabby. With some ex- 
ceptions, the fatness of the meat and the degree of 
" marbling," or distribution of fat throughout the lean, 
are indications of tenderness ; and a light color shows 
usually that the cut is from a young animal and should 
be tender. 

Whether meat is cut with the grain, or across it, makes 
much difference in its apparent fineness or coarseness of 



JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 191 

fiber, and this must be considered in judging of tender- 
ness. Even the tenderloin of beef or of pork looks 
stringy when cut lengthwise, and the flank steak still more 
so. Lean meat is made up of elongated cells of muscular 
tissue, bound into small bundles by a thin white mem- 
brane called connective tissue. The more of this con- 
nective tissue, the tougher the meat. Fortunately, how- 
ever, it is susceptible to softening by heat, which changes 
it to gelatin ; so that, within certain limits, it is under 
the control of the cook. By adequate treatment, such as 
fireless cooking, the natural toughness of cuts from these 
parts that have been exercised most, like the legs and 
neck, or cuts from old and poorly fattened animals, may 
be largely reduced or eliminated ; and thus meat may be 
selected with due regard not only to tenderness but also 
to flavor, food value, and economy. " Marbling " in 
meat, particularly in beef, also softens the connective 
tissues by filling their cells with globules of fat. 

Another indication of the degree of tenderness in meat 
is the texture and color of bone. Comparatively soft, 
spongy, and reddish colored bones indicate that the cut 
is from a young animal, while hard, dense, white bones 
are characteristic of old ones. The '' lamb joint," or 
" break joint," found on the legs or shanks of lamb is 
a good illustration of this point. In dressing lambs, the 
foot is broken off at a suture, or false joint, just above 
the ankle, while in sheep this suture is knit or ossified, 
and the foot must be removed at the round joint. 

Next to tenderness, the greatest satisfaction in eating 
meat, regardless of the kind, depends upon the juiciness 
and flavor. Dry, stringy meat is neither palatable, nutri- 
tious, nor economical; while a juicy cut meets all three 
requirements. It is the cell substance that makes meats 
juicy; the cell walls and connective tissue that make it 



192 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

stringy. There is a decided difference, too. between meat 

of a juicy nature and that which is merely watery. The 
former, as developed in prime beef or mutton, more 
nearly retains its substance, and shape in cooking, while 
the latter, as in veal, shrinks largely, due to the loss of 
water, leaving it comparatively dry and tasteless. 

Flavor is closely associated with the juiciness of meat. 
As just indicated, it develops with the growth of the 
animal, and is therefore most pronounced in mature fat 
carcasses. A'eal and lamb cuts are deficient in flavoring 
material as compared with beef and mutton. Generally, 
too, " the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat," and the 
cheaper cuts from joints that are exercised most are 
equal, or superior, in point of flavor, to those from the 
more tender parts along the back and loin. 

\\'ell marbled meat has a distinctive flavor, due to the 
rich taste which the intermingled fat gives it when cooked. 
Such meat is also more susceptible to ripening in the 
butcher's cooling-room than very lean or watery cuts. 
In cured meats, particularly sugar-cured ham and 
breakfast-bacon, flavor cuts a large figure, and much de- 
pends upon the methods and materials used in curing and 
smoking. Being generally sold under brand names, the 
purchaser has a fairly good guide in the selection of a 
desired flavor in such meats. It is true that few com- 
mercially cured meats are equal, and none superior, in 
palatability to the genuine farm-cured article at its best ; 
but the latter in these days is almost extinct. 

We Americans, as compared with the English, pay little 
attention to the natural flavor of meats, and our penchant 
for putting artificial relishes on our dishes has almost 
destroyed our sense of discrimination. To some, how- 
ever, who still esteem flavor, a choice shoulder-roast of 
lamb or of pork is equal or superior to the loin, and only 



JUST HOIV TO BUY MEATS 193 

half as expensive; flank steak at eighteen cents is pref- 
erable to tenderloin at fifty; a choice "California" 
round roast is as palatable as a high-priced prime rib of 
beef; and breast of veal or of lamb at ten cents a pound 
is as good as chops or cutlets at twenty-five. Others, 
who are possessed both of rich tastes and of ample means, 
cheerfully pay a premium for beef cuts that have been 
highly " ripened," or for hams that have been specially 
selected, cured, smoked, and aged. 



Choose Meat That Is Fat 

Although most meat is used primarily for the sake 
of the protein, or lean tissue that it provides, the pur- 
chaser makes a serious mistake who objects to the so- 
called " waste fat " that choice meat must have, or who 
chooses unfinished lean cuts in order to avoid it. In 
the first place, the best quality of lean meat requires a 
sufiicient outer layer of fat to give it good keeping 
qualities and a sightly appearance, and at least a moderate 
" marbling " of the cut to make it rich and tender. A 
roast, steak, or chop of good size should carry, usually, 
one-fourth to one-half inch of outside fat, and other cuts 
may have more or less, according to their class and size. 
Some of those who insist on the leanest bacon would find 
the thicker, fatter grades equally palatable and cheaper. 

In the second place, fat meat is two and one-fourth 
times as nutritious from an energy standpoint as lean, 
and although a limited amount of it is sufficient for direct 
use, the remainder need not be wasted, but may be utilized 
in such forms as gravies and drippings, for which it is as 
good, or better, than butter. Finally proper cooking, par- 
ticularly broiling and roasting, is impossible with ex- 



194 THE PURE EOOD COOK BOOK 

tremely lean meat, and the percentage of shrinkage in 
cooking is high. If, from choice or for economy's sake, 
lean steak is ordered, it is well to get with it a piece of 
suet so that it may be made savory and served with 
its own gravy. The trouble is that our fancied economy 
is false ; we would better save by selecting a cheaper class 
of cut, but looking well to its quality. 



Cuts of Meat Are Not Difficult to Learn 

Notwithstanding a prevalent impression that the dif- 
ferent cuts are difficult to distinguish, the truth is that 
they can be learned readily by anyone ; for the structure 
of the bones and muscles is a guide that seldom leaves 
room for doubt as to the identity of any cut in the car- 
cass. By referring to the diagrams and photographs that 
accompany these articles, and then closely observing actual 
cuts that the reader may venture to order from the lists 
given here, it will be found quite easy, after a little ex- 
perience, to recognize at a glance any of the cuts that 
are commonly used. 

Cuts of the quick cooking kind, given in the following 
list, may be either broiled or sauted. Steaks and chops, 
for best results, should be broiled (either grilled or pan- 
broiled) ; and for that purpose steaks should be cut 
three-fourths to one inch thick — thicker if desired — and 
chops one-half to three-fourths of an inch. Thin-cut 
chuck and round steaks, '' drop tenderloins," and pork 
or mutton chops may be sauted if hard, overdone meat is 
preferred, as it is by some people with perverted tastes. 
Ham, bacon, salt pork, and breaded cutlets also are cooked 
by this method. None of the meats in this list ever should 
be actually fried, that is covered completely with hot fat. 



JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 195 

Quick Cooking Cuts 

Weight Retail Price 

Pounds Cents per lb. 

Porterhouse steak iK to 3 20 to 35 

Club steak i to 2 18 to 30 

Sirloin steak 2 to 5 18 to 30 

Round steak 2 to 5 14 to 22 

Top round steak i^ to 3 ' 18 to 26 

Chuck steak 2 to 4 12 to 18 

Flank steak i to 2 15 to 20 

Veal steak i to 2 18 to 25 

Pork steak i to ij4 15 to 20 

Mutton chops Yz to ^ 18 to 25 

Lamb chops i-S to 1-3 20 to 30 

Veal chops ^ to ^ 18 to 25 

Veal cutlets Ya to i^ 20 to 30 

Pork chops /4 to Y2 18 to 22 

Salt pork i to 3 12 to 16 

Fancy breakfast bacon 1-16 to Yd, 25 to 35 

Medium to fat bacon Y?, to Ya 16 to 25 

Below are listed those cuts which are of proper size and 
quality for roasting and baking and require moderately 
quick cooking. Reasonably fat and tender meat is re- 
quired for satisfactory results. Besides the cuts named, 
very thick steaks may be partially broiled and afterwards 
roasted or baked in the oven ; and breasts of lamb and of 
veal are sometimes roasted, though generally stewed. 



Moderately Quick Cooking Meats 

Weight 
Pounds 

Prime ribs of beef (first cut) 4 to 12 

Prime ribs of beef (last cut) 4 to 12 

Shoulder block roast 4 to 8 

Chuck rib roast 4 to 10 

Beef rump 4 to 12 

Beef tenderloin (fillet) 2 to 6 



Reta 


il ] 


Price 


Cents per lb. 


18 


to 


25 


16 


to 


20 


12 


to 


18 


12 


to 


18 


12 


to 


16 


30 


to 


50 



196 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Weight Retail Price 

Pounds Cents per lb. 

Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20 

Loin of mutton 3 to 6 15 to 20 

Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 12 to 15 

Leg of lamb 3^ to 6 18 to 28 

Loin of lamb 2 to 4 20 to 30 

Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20 

Crown lamb roast 3^ to 6 20 to 35 

Hind quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 20 to 25 

Fore quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 15 to 18 

Pork loin 2 to 8 16 to 20 

Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20 

Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 18 to 25 

Pork tenderloin ^ to ^ 28 to 35 

Pork shoulder 2 to 5 12 to 15 

Spare-ribs 1/2 to i 10 to 15 

Veal loin 3 to 6 18 to 22 

Veal leg (fillet) 3 to 12 16 to 20 

Veal shoulder 3 to 8 14 to 18 

The cuts that are best for long, slow methods of cook- 
ing may be subdivided, for convenience' sake, into three 
classes : boiling meats, stewing meats, and soup meats. 
The first, as a rule, are from the leaner parts that are 
more or less toughened by exercise. Some of the cuts 
listed may be chosen either for this purpose or for roast- 
ing, according to the quality of meat. Stewing is suitable 
for fat and fairly tender meats, such as breasts and 
flanks of lamb; but some lean cuts also are so used. 
Soups, broths, and beef tea are made from the bony and 
muscular parts which contain an abundance of flavoring 
substances. 



Slow Cooking Meats 

Weight Retail Price 

Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per lb. 

Beef horseshoe piece (end round).. 4 to 8 10 to 16 

Beef shoulder clod 3 to 6 10 to 16 



JUST HOW TO PUY MEATS 197 

Weight 
Boiling Mea is Pounds 

Rib end of beef 2 to 6 

Cross-ribs of beef 2 to 5 

Beef brisket 3 to 8 

Corned beef, rump, tiank, plate or 

brisket 2 to 8 

Beef tongue (fresh) 3 to 5 

Beef tongue (smoked) 2 to 3 

Leg of mutton 6 to 9 

Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 

Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 

Leg of pork 3 to 12 

Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 

Pork shoulder (fresh) 3 to 8 

Pork shoulder (smoked) 3 to 8 

Pork hocks i^ to 2^ 

Back-bones and neck-bones 2 to 8 

Stewing Meats 

Beef plate 3 to 6 

Beef flank 2 to 6 

Drop tenderloin i to 2 

Beef skirts i to 2 

Beef neck i to 3 

Beef shin 2 to 5 

Breast of mutton 2 to 4 

Breast of lamb i to 2>4 

Veal breast 2 to 5 

Veal neck i to 2 

Soup and Broth Meats 

Shin soup bones i to 4 

Hind shank soup bones i to 5 

Knuckle soup bones 3 to 7 

Oxtail I to 2 

Beef neck i to 3 

Beef shoulder clod i to 2 

Beef round i to 2 

Mutton shouldei i to 2 

Mutton neck i to 2 

Mutton shanks i to 1^/2 



Retc 


lii : 


Price 


Cen1 


:sper lb. 


8 


to 


14 


8 


to 


12 


8 


to 


10 


10 


to 


16 


15 


to 


18 


25 


to 


30 


15 


to 


20 


10 


to 


15 


15 


to 


20 


16 


to 


20 


18 


to 


25 


14 


to 


16 


10 


to 


12 


8 


to 


10 


8 


to 


10 


8 


to 


10 


6 


to 


10 


10 


to 


I2I/4 


8 to 


ID 


8 


to 


12 


6 


to 


12 


6 


to 


8 


8 


to 


i2y2 


12 


to 


15 


8 


to 


10 


4 


to 


6 


4 


to 


8 


4 


to 


6 


8 


to 


ID 


6 


to 


10 


10 


to 


14 


14 


to 


22 


10 


to 


15 


8 


to 


10 


8 


to 


10 



198 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Certain cuts may be made most palatable. Such meats 
are pot roast, braised and browned beef, beef a la mode, 
" gravy stews,'' and baked meats which are previously 
boiled. The preparation of meat in most of these ways 
was more familiar to our grandmothers, in the days of 
pots and kettles, than to us, who live in the era of gas 
stoves. But with the modern fireless cooker, even those 
who have abandoned the coal range may enjoy the meat 
dishes of old, and, what is better, they may do so without 
giving the pot any occasion for uncomplimentary remarks 
to the kettle. 

Pot roasting is especially adapted to shoulder pot roasts 
of beef, the shoulder block roast or " Boston cut,'' and 
the end round cut or "' horseshoe piece." Rumps, bris- 
kets, shoulder clods, plates, and flanks of beef and shoul- 
der of mutton are other cuts that are used in this way. 

Braised beef usually is made from round steak cut two 
or three inches thick (known as " California roast " or 
''Swiss steak"), or from rumps, flanks, or rib ends. 
Beef tenderloins, mutton chops, ox hearts, and ox joints 
(tails) also are braised. 

Boiling followed by baking or oven-roasting is a 
method of cooking to which smoked hams and shoulders 
or " picnics " are especially adapted. Broiled breakfast 
bacon, when extremely salt, is improved for some palates 
by parboiling first for a minute or two. Very thick 
steaks may be made well done without burning the sur- 
face if they are broiled partially and then cooked to the 
desired point in a hot oven. 

'' Made-over dishes " in endless variety may be made 
from many of the meats listed, and especially from the 
cheaper cuts. In this way five to ten pounds of meat 
may be cooked and afterwards served in five to ten differ- 
ent ways, with little loss either of food value or flavor. 





Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon. 

1. Extra Lean. 

2. Medium. 

3. Fat. 

Bacon i sells 100 per cent. Higher than 3, hut the Quality 
and Food Value are Similar. 



200 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

hearts, livers, kidneys, plucks, and tripe are the prin- 
cipal products of this kind. By means of skilful cook- 
ing and seasoning surprisingly palatable and wholesome 
dishes may be made from many of them. 

Armed with these specifications, one need never timidly 
ask for '' boiling meat," for example, but may order 
by name a cut that is suited to the desired purpose, 
and ten to one the butcher will select and put it up with 
special care. Occasional reference to lists like these will 
assist the novice, at least, to introduce variety, obtain 
quality, and at the same time observe economy in select- 
ing meat for the family. 



JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS 

HEN the meat comes from the market, after 
weighing, wipe it thoroughly with a clean 
cheesecloth wrung out of hot water. Do 
not wash it. Then compute the time neces- 
sary for cooking. Beef, if desired rare, 
should be cooked ten minutes for each pound 
counted after the first fifteen, twenty, or 
thirty minutes, depending upon the size of the meat. 
Take a roast, weighing eight pounds, desired rare : count 
eighty plus twenty minutes, or one hour and forty min- 
utes. If dinner is to be at six-thirty, the oven must be 
ready, and the meat go in promptly at ten minutes of 
five. If desired better done, it needs to be placed in the 
oven at four-thirty, as the eight pounds multiplied by 
twelve minutes equals ninety-six, plus twenty equals one 
hundred and sixteen, which is two hours within four 
minutes. 




JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS 201 

The meat should not be seasoned nor dredged with 
flour, but placed in a hot oven, whether the piece be 
large or small. There are directions which say "the 
smaller the meat the hotter the oven," and others that 
state exactly the opposite. Let us make this seeming 
discrepancy quite plain to the beginner. It all depends on 
the size, but especially the shape of the roast. 

When a large roast is put in the oven, it takes with 
it a sufficient proportion of cold to perceptibly lower 
the heat of the oven, and this has to be regained before 
the surfaces of the meat can be seared over and prevent 
escape of the juices. On the other hand, because meat 
is a poor conductor of heat, the surface of a large piece 
of meat becomes burned or charred before the heat 
reaches the interior if the oven be too hot at first. The 
very hot oven sears or coagulates the surfaces of a small 
roast quickly, and therefore aids in the retention of the 
juices in which the meat should cook. 

Hence, the sensible directions are that the oven should 
be relatively hotter for the smaller roast than for the 
large one, and then the heat be more quickly lowered 
to complete the cooking. The first heat of the oven 
should be more moderate relatively for the larger piece, 
but be more evenly maintained. 

Meat in general should not be seas®ned before cook- 
ing. Salt has what is called in physics an affinity for 
water, and when placed on the surface of the meat does 
not penetrate, but draws the juices of the meat toward 
the surface, thus rendering the meat tougher and more 
tasteless. The time to season is when the cooking is 
finished. 

We are fully aware of the skepticism raised in the 
old-fashioned cook's mind by such a statement, but 
science has proved it correct. And we can only request 



202 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

the skeptics to do the fair thing- and try it for them- 
selves. Let them take two roasts, a week or so apart, 
as nearly alike as possible, weighing each before and 
after cooking, salting one and not the other, and not tell- 
ing the family what has been done. Then record and 
compare the results in the two. This is the real way to 
learn " just how." 



JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK 

ROILING is but a method of roasting applied 
to thin pieces of meat. That is, in broiling or 
grilling, the steak or chop is exposed to the 
direct rays of the fire, whether it be coal, gas, 
or electricity. 

A perfect steak should be cut one and one- 
half inches thick and cooked quickly over a 
hot fire, so that both sides are browned, the interior being 
of an even red color. The steak should be pufifed and 
elastic from the confined steam of the juices, and every 
particle of juice and flavor should be preserved, not lost 
in the cooking. 

To do this, first remove the superfluous fat from the 
meat; heat the broiler and grease it well with a piece of 
this fat. Lay the steak on the broiler with the skin or 
outside edge toward the handle. This is done because 
as the broiler is turned it is tipped down, therefore the 
melting fat runs on to the meat instead of into the fire, 
if the steak is placed right. The coals should be red and 
hot, not black nor burned white. Put the broiler close 
to the coals and count ten slowly. Turn and count again. 
In this time, if the fire is right and the steak can be 




JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK 203 

sufficiently near, the surface will be seared over so the 
juices will be retained. 

Repeat this, however, then hold the broiler further 
away from the coals or fire, that the steak may cook 
more slowly. If the meat is broiled too near the fire all 
the time of cooking, the outside will be overdone, the 
inside underdone. If it be held too far away from the fire 
all the timeJt will lose its juices and be flat, and lacking 
in flavor. 

When broiling steak one catmot, or should not, try to 
attend to other things. It requires constant attention ; 
for the steak should be turned every ten seconds, for a 
period of eight to ten minutes, according to the thick- 
ness of the steak. 

When the fat runs into the fire no special harm is 
done, unless the steak is permitted to absorb the smoke, 
when it occasionally gets a smoky taste. The flame will 
not hurt it, the smoke may. When properly done, little 
or no fat or juices will run into the fire. When cooked 
it will be just the right brown, and this look one learns 
only by experience. Moreover it will be puffed up be- 
tween the wires of the broiler and will offer a slight re- 
sistance to the touch. If in doubt remove the broiler to 
a dish on a table and make a clean cut on one side with 
a sharp knife. Do not before, after, or during cooking, 
pierce the steak with a fork, but learn to judge by time 
and appearance as to the condition of the meat. 

If the steak is preferred well done the process is more 
difficult, but after the first quick searing over, which 
must be done as rapidly as possible, remove the steak 
farther from the heat and cook for a long period. It is 
even more necessary to turn it frequently when desired 
well done than when cooked rare, if one wishes a per- 
fectly broiled steak. Cook for twelve or thirteen minutes 



204 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

if wanted well done when the steak is an inch and a 
half thick. A thin steak requires careful handling, but 
can be cooked relatively more quickly than a thicker one, 
when desired well done. A steak two inches thick will 
take from fifteen to eighteen minutes to broil rare, and 
needs constant attention. 

\Miile broiling over a coal fire the flue dampers should 
be open, to carry flame and odors up the chimney. 

Do not let the steak stand before serving if it can be 
avoided. Dredge with salt and pepper after, not before, 
cooking, and when ready to serve spread with butter and 
garnish with parsley. 

Pan-broiling means to broil in a hot pan in place of 
over the coals. It should not be confused with frying, 
sauteing, or any such method. The hot pan should be 
rubbed with a piece of fat just as the broiler is greased 
to keep the steak from sticking, and the steak broiled in 
it precisely as described for broiling over the coals. The 
pan should be very hot at first, the steak seared on both 
sides, then allowed to cook more slowly, but turned every 
ten counts as carefully as if over the coals. In lifting to 
turn it put the fork in the extreme end of the steak, if a 
fork must be used. Any fat that runs out of the steak in 
cooking should be poured ofit in order to prevent the 
fried look or taste that will result if the meat is sauted 
in its own fat. 



Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades. Sirloin 
Steaks arc Cut from the Surface Shown. Note the 
Differences in Shape, Thickness, Outside Fat, Mar- 
bling, Grain, and Quality of Meat. 




Beef Loin, Third Grade. 




Beef Loin, Second Grade. 




Beef Loin, First Grade. 






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HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEET 205 

JUST HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 

OT ROAST is one of the delicious meat dishes 
that can be made of the cheaper (not the 
cheapest) cuts of beef. 

Perhaps it is not fair to call pot roast a 
cheap dish, because the prices vary so widely 
in different localities, and the cuts vary so 
much. In the vicinity of Providence, R. L, 
for example, our correspondents report prices of 12 to 
18 cents a pound ; in Philadelphia, 14 to 20 cents, in 
New York City, 18 to 22 cents. In Boston and vicinity 
20 to 25 cents. 

In Providence they sell for pot roast the rump (14 10 
16 cents), shoulder (12 to 14 cents), and bottom round 
(16 to 18 cents), in Philadelphia and vicinity, the chuck 
roast next to ribs (14 cents), shoulder cut (16 to 18 
cents), and the ribs (18 to 20 cents). In New York 
City and the West, prices are higher, and their range is 
greater. The cuts are bottom round, top sirloin (which 
is expensive, as a rule), top round and brisket, 16 to 22 
cents. 

The " eye " of the beef is considered the epicurean cut 
for pot roast. This is a triangular piece of meat taken 
from the hind-quarter between the top and bottom round 
after the bone has been removed. In the West, pot roast 
is often made by cutting vertically through the bottom 
and top round (inside round) as is done in the East. 
This top round or part on the inside of the hind-quarter 
is exceptionally good for pot roast. 

In different localities the names of beef cuts are en- 
tirely different. In some places, for example, the flank 
is cut so as to include more of the loin, in which case 



2o6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

the upper portion is often called the flank steak. Some- 
times the rump steak, the inside round, is called the rump 
plate, or the rattle. Often the cross-ribs and brisket are 
included together under the name of cross-ribs; the fore 
part of the cross-ribs is sometimes called the shoulder 
clod, and the leg underneath the second round is called 
the hind shoulder. Often, too, the socket and rump to- 
gether are called simply the rump. Consequently one 
must know from what part of the beef the meat should 
be cut and how it looks. This knowledge must be 
acquired in actual marketing. 

The requirements for a successful pot roast are fresh 
meat, slow cooking — about one hour per pound unless the 
top sirloin or tenderer parts are employed — and adequate 
seasoning. Buy from four to six pounds of beef for any 
ordinary meal to be served for from three to five people. 
Remove the meat at once from its wrappings to avoid the 
taste of paper. Before cooking moisten a piece of cheese- 
cloth and rub the beef all over carefully. Never soak in 
water as this wastes good protein material. Remove 
any discolored fat. 

Pot Roast 

Brown two onions, which have been thinly sliced, in 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, in a pot with a cover; then 
add the meat and let it steam in the covered pot with 
just enough water to keep the meat from burning. Let 
it cook for three hours or more if necessary. Place on 
a dish and add to it a sauce made of one can of tomatoes, 
one tablespoonful of flour, and two chopped boiled car- 
rots. Season with a dash of paprika and salt to taste. 



HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 207 
Braised Beef with Oysters 

Two pounds of round steak, one cupful of oysters, one 
cupful of water or stock, one dash of mace, one clove, 
some allspice, one rounding teaspoonful of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one-third teaspoonful of white 
pepper, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, a pinch 
of summer savory, and one-half onion, grated. The 
beef must be in one solid piece. Mix the salt, pepper, 
and summer savory with the onion ; rub the beef well 
with it on both sides ; lay in the kettle with the water, 
spices, and half of the butter, rubbed with half of the 
flour. Cover closely and simmer gently until the beef is 
tender, which will take from two to three hours, or if 
the beef is tough, possibly a little more. When tender, 
heat the frying pan very hot, melt in it a part of the 
remaining butter; lay the beef in the butter, turn once, 
frying until the outside is browned. Be careful not to 
harden it. After placing the beef on a hot platter, fry 
the oysters in the same pan. Lay the fried oysters on 
the beef and keep all warm. Strain the gravy, left from 
stewing the beef, into the frying pan (there should be 
about one pint; add oyster liquor and water or soup to 
make up the quantity, if it is scant), mix the rest of the 
flour until smooth with a few drops of cold water; stir 
it into the boiling gravy and boil for five minutes ; longer 
if not quite thick enough. Pour around the beef and 
serve hot. 

Left-over Pot Roast 

Use what is left over of a pot roast, running it through 
the meat chopper. Pare and quarter one large onion, 
pour boiling water over it and let it stand for about ten 
minutes. Then run it through the chopper, season with 



2o8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

pepper, and add to it a poultry dressing made of one 
Qgg, four rolled crackers, sage, salt, and pepper as de- 
sired. Put all of this into a bowl and work it into a loaf. 
Place it in an earthen dish and put into a moderate oven 
for an hour. Just before serving, remove the cover and 
let it brown. Then take enough boiled macaroni, drain 
off the water, and pour over it the brown gravy that 
has been left from the roast and set it on the back of the 
stove to simmer. Heat a can of tomato soup and serve 
with macaroni around the loaf. 



Epicurean Pot Roast 

Buy the " eye of the beef " which weighs about three * 
pounds. Have the butcher lard it with pork fat. Be- 
fore cooking remove the larding and place it in a bowl 
with chopped canned pimientoes and some of the pimiento 
juice, a few bread crumbs or cracker crumbs to thicken, 
and a few sprigs of chopped parsley. Work all this to- 
gether and press back into the vacant larding home of the 
beef. Place the beef in a covered iron pot on the stove, 
accompanied by a piece of suet, and sear on the outside, 
but do not toughen or harden it. Then let it cook wnth 
just enough soup stock or water to keep it from burning, 
over the slowest fire possible for at least three hours. 
Turn the beef every fifteen minutes. Forty minutes be- 
fore the meat is cooked, scrape five or six potatoes and 
put into the pot with the meat to brown. Serve hot or 
cold. 




JU^T HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 209 



JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 

NCE upon a time, when I went visiting in a 
small family, who lived in a small apartment 
on a small income, I learned the possibilities 
of casserole cooking, and came home so im- 
pressed by its many-sidedness that I adapted 
all sorts of dishes to fit the earthen utensils. 
First, I invested in an entire set of casse- 
roles from one large, red clay, lidded pot with an enameled 
interior to several sets of cunning, handled ramekins 
which afford plenty of crisped brown crust on the small- 
est dish. I have a half-dozen of the smallest size, which 
are just big enough to bake an ^gg, a tomato, or a por- 
tion of creamed potato for one person. There is an- 
other set of larger ramekins, which I use for individual 
chicken pies, or small meat dishes. Last of all comes 
an oval casserole in which you can cook a chicken, a 
steak, a few slices of veal, or a neck of lamb. The oval 
dish fits a chicken better than the round one. By the 
way, when speaking of chicken I mean a tough, old fowl 
which can be made really tender in the casserole. 

While on the utensil subject, let me speak of the oven. 
We use no fuel but gas and I found it rather expensive 
to ''blaze up" the oven every time I wanted to bake a 
few eggs, so I purchased what the clerk called a small 
" spinster oven." In two months it saved its price on 
the gas bill. See to it, however, that it will hold your 
largest casserole ; mine did not and had to be exchanged. 
It is set on top of a burner and, when slow heat is re- 
quired, I use nothing under it but the tiny gas simmerer. 
It can be pushed to the back of the stove out of the way 



2IO THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

and when not in use I keep it on a shelf beside the kitchen 
utensils. 

Now for certain " casseroled " dinner dishes ! You do 
not require tender meat for casserole cooking, therefore 
it is well to study cheap cuts of meat. French and 
'Italian cooks know better than any other nation the value 
of these cheap cuts. At any table d'hote place you find 
very inexpensive meats, which have been converted to 
goodness by this method. Certain pieces of beef, such as 
cuts from the round, shoulder clod, flank, brisket, chuck, 
or even rump, if the latter is cut according to Xew 
York method, are well adapted for casserole cooking. In 
lamb, choose a neck or breast, with no fat, adding to its 
goodness by seasoning and any vegetables which help to 
make a rich gravy. 

The first process before casseroling any meat is to 
cut it in pieces convenient for s'erving, then flour and 
season it, and brown in an iron spider using the fat 
fried from salt pork which adds not a little to the 
flavoring. Put in the vegetables, make a gravy with a 
cupful of water and the brown juice in the spider, or 
if you have stock, use that. Pour it over the meat, cover 
tight and set in a hot oven till it comes to the bubbling 
point, then turn down the gas and let it cook very 
slowly for two or three hours. Chicken and sliced veal 
may be treated in the same fashion and occasionally I 
have transformed a tough duck or rabbit into a delicious 
dish by slow casserole cooking. Kidneys, also a beef or 
calves' hearts, may be made tender and savory in this 
way. 

Casserole of Beef 

One recipe for beef in the casserole will serve as a 
guide for cooking any piece of meat which is not tender 



JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 211 

enough to be roasted or broiled. Take two or three 
pounds of round steak; it need not be from the more 
expensive top of the round, a lower cut is sfood enoudi 
and will be quite tender if properly cooked. Remember, 
the tougher the meat, the more delicious the gravy, and 
the greater your achievement in transforming a cheap 
food into a nutritious and sightly dish. Have the meat 
cut half way across the round. Wipe it, tie into shape, 
salt and pepper it, then roll in flour, till thickly coated, 
sear in hot fat, turning every side of the cut till well 
browned. Have the casserole hot, add two cupfuls of 
canned tomato, half an onion, a sliced carrot, and a tur- 
nip, two stalks of chopped celery, a sprig of parsley, and 
half a teaspoonful of mixed whole spices. Pour a cupful 
of water in the spider, add a teaspoonful of kitchen 
bouquet, and pour over the meat. Cover tightly and set 
in a hot oven. As soon as the meat begins to cook, turn 
the gas low and cook very §lowly for two or three hours. 
If you wish to serve potatoes with this dish, about fifteen 
minutes before taking the casserole from the oven, add 
as many as you wish, sliced and parboiled. Serve on 
a platter with the vegetables as a garnish, and the gravy 
in a boat. 

The variations on casseroled dishes are restricted by 
individual taste and by what is in the pantry. For in- 
stance, if you desire, the steak may be onioned, by add- 
ing, instead of vegetables, four or five onions sliced and 
fried light brown in the spider. Or mushrooms may be 
used instead of the vegetables. If you like the canned 
variety, pour off the liquor and add them to the gravy 
ten minutes before taking the meat from the oven. 



212 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Casseroled Veal 

Casseroled veal is delicious treated like steak, using 
instead of vegetables, one shredded green pepper, half a 
sliced onion, fried light brown, with a cupful of hot 
steamed rice added half an hour before serving. Chicken 
is at its best when cooked in this fashion with mush- 
rooms and potatoes. A dash of onion, green pepper, 
or pimiento, adds to the flavor of chicken, veal, or rabbit. 
When lamb chops — or better still — slices of lamb cut 
from across the leg, are casseroled, make a bed of par- 
boiled vegetables underneath, using diced carrots, 
parsnip, or turnip. 

Put on top of these the browned meat, with a 
sprinkling of finely cut onion and celery, afterward pour 
over all the slightly thickened gravy. 

Beef Tongue en Casserole 

Another delicious casseroled dish is a beef tongue 
which has been slightly corned. Boil it first, trim off 
unsightly bits and skin. Rub with flour, to which has 
been added a dash of ginger, and allspice. Fry a few 
slices of onion in salt pork, then put the tongue in the 
spider, first tying it into shape. Flour it and fry lightly 
on all sides. Make a cupful of gravy, adding the juice of 
a lemon, three tablespoonfuls of shredded almonds, and 
half a cupful of seeded raisins. Put the tongue in a 
round casserole, pour the gravy over it, and bake half 
an hour in a moderate oven. Untie the meat, turn out 
on a chop plate, and serve with the gravy poured over it. 

Calves' Hearts 

A favorite dish in our house is casseroled calves' 
hearts, which are so tender and well flavored they might 




Casserole of Beef. 
Recipe on Page 210. 




Corn Cakes to serve zvith Meat. 
Recipe on Page jjd. 




Casseroled Veal. 
Recipe on Page 212. 




Creamed Asparagus Tips. 

The Individual Casserole Makes an Attractive Way of 

Serving Left-overs. 



JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 213 

almost be palmed off as venison. Fry an onion with 
a few slices of fat bacon ; roll four calves' hearts in flour, 
and brown them all over. Put in a hot casserole, add one 
cupful of stock, a shredded pimiento and half a teaspoon- 
ful of mixed, whole spices. Cover the casserole tightly, 
then bake for two hours. Before serving, garnish the 
meat with crisped bacon. 

When clearing up food remnants, try my plan of scrap- 
ing what can be used in this way into the little dishes 
before the food cools. Sometimes it may be only a few 
spoonfuls of some creamed dish, chicken, fish, oysters, 
lobster, crab, sweetbreads, dried beef, or a remnant of 
some meat with gravy. If it seems too dry, add a spoon- 
ful of milk or gravy. Set the ramekins in the refrigera- 
tor until required. Generally they need to be topped off 
with crumbs, or a film of grated cheese which is a de- 
licious addition. If they are baked in a pan of boiling 
water, the food will be more moist and the dishes easier 
to wash. The only food I do not ramekin in this way is 
a baked tgg, which is improved by a slightly crusted 
bottom. 

Chicken pie ramekins are a favorite luncheon at our 
house. Into the larger ramekin I put bits of stewed 
chicken, first picking it from the bones. Fill the dish 
three-quarters full with meat and gravy, then cover with 
a rich biscuit crust shaped with a cutter about the size 
of the ramekin. Cut a hole in the top and bake crisp. 
It is well to set chicken pies in the oven on a tin, as the 
gravy is liable to ooze out while baking. 

Certain vegetable left-overs may be reheated in rame- 
kins ; potatoes, mushrooms, cauliflower, and cabbage are 
good when gratined. Asparagus tips, peas, beans, or 
onions may be creamed. Macaroni and spaghetti topped 



214 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

off with cheese, make dehcious Uttle side dishes for 
dinner. 

Even left-over desserts may be re-served in ramekins. 
Bread pudding enriched by fruit, cocoanut, chocolate, or 
apples, if moistened slightly with milk or a spoonful of 
cold custard, makes a very respectable appearance when 
served piping hot in ramekins. Do not fill the little dishes 
to the top, but leave space for a garnish of hard sauce 
which adds to its toothsomeness as well as to looks. 
Cabinet, fig, blueberry, tapioca. Indian, rice, cracker, or 
fruit-tapioca as well as plum pudding and, indeed, almost 
any remnant of a steamed pudding may be made over 
successfully by moistening and reheating in ramekins. 
Of course a " musthave " with such a dessert is a spoon- 
ful of hard sauce or a rich liquid sauce which enhances 
the flavor of a pudding. 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 

Planked Beefsteak with Potato Roses 

The housewife who has never thought of planked 
steak except in connection with a restaurant will not 
believe how very simple it is to prepare it until she has 
tried it in her own kitchen ; fasten the steak to the 
plank with galvanized wire tacks, selecting either a 
tenderloin, porterhouse, or Delmonico cut of the beef. 
Have the board very warm and greased with melted 
butter, then run the plank under the gas flame as you 
would to broil, regulate the flame imtil it is cooked to 
your liking, dot with bits of butter, season with salt and 
paprika, and place for a moment on the open oven door. 
Have in readiness hot, creamy mashed potatoes and as 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 215 

quickly as possible pipe them around the edge of the 
plank or form little rosettes at either end, returning 
under the flame for a moment or two to brown ; serve 
garnished with mushrooms, peas, or parsley as you may 
prefer. 

Parker House Roast Beef 

A piece of beef intended for roasting is carefully 
freed of tough membranes. To prevent the meat from 
becoming dry in cooking, it is larded with strips of salt 
pork. Or better still, slices of beef-suet are pounded 
with a wooden beater to the thickness of a slice of bacon, 
and the roast is enveloped in these. It is then roasted in 
a very hot oven, allowing ten minutes for every pound, 
unless the roast happens to be longer than it is wide. 
In the latter case, eight minutes for each pound will be 
sufficient. Serve the roast with only its own juices for 
gravy and with fresh grated horseradish as a relish. This 
method of roasting beef is especially adapted to cooking 
in gas-ovens. 

Swiss Steak 

Select a two-pound steak from the under or upper 
round. See that it is cut one inch or one and one-half 
inches in thickness. Sear it on both sides in a hot skillet. 
Then remove to a platter and dust thickly with flour. 
Place in a casserole with a small piece of suet. Mix one 
chopped onion with one cupful of tomato. Season with 
salt and pepper and place this dressing over one-half 
the meat and fold the other half over. Add a very little 
water, renewing if necessary to keep it from burning, and 
cook very slowly two or three hours. Thicken the gravy, 
if liked, and serve from the casserole. 



2i6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Flank Steak with Onions 

Place in a casserole a flank steak, cut from the thick 
end of the flank, one and one-half inches thick. Cover 
with two inches' depth of onions sliced and well seasoned 
with salt and pepper. Finally cover with thin slices of 
salt pork and add one cupful of water. Cover closely 
and bake in a slow oven or a fireless cooker all the 
afternoon. There will be little evidence of the salt pork 
when done. Just before serving remove cover and brown. 
Serve from the casserole. 

Rolled Beefsteak 

Make a good dressing as for turkey and spread it over 
a two-pound round steak. Roll it up and tie it securely 
and put it in a cloth bag and boil it for two hours. 
About half an hour before serving, take it from the bag 
and brown it in the oven. Serve it with a good brown 
sauce or with a tomato sauce with chopped green peppers. 

Meat Loaf v^^ith Hard Cooked Eggs 

Chop one pound each of raw veal and beef with one- 
fourth pound of salt pork. Add one-half teaspoonful 
each of thyme and marjoram, or one tablespoonful of 
poultry seasoning and one-half teaspoonful of onion 
juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and salt and 
pepper to taste. Mix it with one-half cupful of bread 
crumbs and two well-beaten eggs. Butter a mold and 
fill half full with the meat mixture. On this place 
lengthwise two whole hard cooked eggs, then fill with the 
rest of the mixture. Place a tablespoonful of melted 
butter or beef shortening on top and bake in a slow 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 217 

oven one and one-half hours. When served the meat will 
have a round slice of hard cooked &gg in each slice of 
meat. Parsley may be used for a garnish and the meat 
may be served hot or cold. 

Beef Loaf, Mexican Sauce 

Add one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one cupful of 
stale bread crumbs, to two pounds of lean chopped beef. 
Moisten with strained tomato sauce, and shape in loaf 
bread pan. Turn out into a greased baking pan, and 
bake thirty minutes, basting often with tomato juice. 
Serve on a hot platter, surrounded with Mexican sauce. 

Mexican Sauce 

Cook a fourth of a cupful each of chopped onion, red 
and green peppers, in a fourth of a cupful of butter, or 
beef dripping, until soft. Add four tablespoonfuls of 
flour and, when smooth, one and a half cupfuls of stewed 
tomato. Cook ten minutes, then season with salt. 

Hash in Disguise 

Mince finely enough cold corned beef to fill two cups, 
also an equal amount of potatoes, one slice of onion, if 
desired, and half a green pepper. Mix well together 
and season highly with salt and pepper and if the meat 
is mostly lean, add a tablespoonful of slightly melted 
butter. Rub about three cupfuls of boiled hma beans 
through the sifter or colander to remove the skins. 
Season the pulp with salt and pepper and mix with a well 



2i8 THE PURE EOOD COOK BOOK 

beaten Qgg to bind. Form the hash as nearly as possible 
into a roll, and with the hands cover the entire outside 
with this pulp. Lift carefully on to baking dish. Brush 
the outside with melted butter and bake until thoroughly 
heated. Serve with a white sauce, to which may be 
added, if desired, a little more of the minced green pep- 
per, or two or three drops of onion juice. 

English Cottage Pie 

Put the beef bone of your roast on to stew with cold 
water, one sliced onion, a few cloves, one sprig of parsley, 
and a bit of celery. Chop the left-over meat very fine, 
add pepper and salt. Strain the stock and with it make 
a brown sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter and 
three tablespoonfuls of flour to each cupful of liquid. 
Season with Worcestershire sauce and put half of it into 
the bottom of a baking dish, then add the minced meat, 
the rest of the sauce, and cover with seasoned mashed 
potatoes, having potatoes one inch deep. Bake the pie 
until heated through and very delicately browned. 

Bobtee 

One pint of cold cooked meat chopped fine, one-half 
of a small onion, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful 
of milk, two ounces of bread, eight sweet almonds, three 
eggs, a dash of salt, and one teaspoonful of curry powder. 
Put the butter in a frying pan and slice in the onion. Fry 
a nice brown. Add the milk and bread. Take from the 
fire and let stand ten minutes. Blanch and chop almonds 
and add them, the meat, the curry powder, and the eggs 
well beaten to the ingredients in the frying pan. Rub 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 219 

a baking dish with butter and the juice of a lemon. Put 
the mixture in this and bake in the oven twenty minutes. 



Beef Olives 

Pass through a meat chopper several times, until quite 
fine, half a pound of raw beef, half a pound of cold 
cooked meat, and half a pound of bread, which has been 
soaked in water, a little parsley, and a piece of fat salt 
pork about the size of an ^gg. Season this and add to 
it one t.gg. Mix it well and roll it into balls. Wrap each 
ball in oiled paper to hold together while cooking. Bake 
them in the oven, in a pan, into which have been placed 
some finely chopped carrots and onions, a couple of 
tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes, and a little water. 
Remove to a hot platter, and add a little flour to the 
gravy. Strain the gravy over the beef olives. 

Mock Duck 

Buy a flank steak. Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
onion in one-fourth cupful butter or drippings. Add 
one-half cupful soft stale bread crumbs, one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of mixed seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. 
Spread over the steak, roll and tie. Brown the roll in 
three tablespoonfuls of fat, and remove to a casserole or 
covered dish. To the fat in the pan add an equal quan- 
tity of flour, and brown ; then add one cupful stock or 
boiling water, and one cupful strained tomato, season 
with salt, and pepper, pour over the roll, cover dish, and 
cook slowly until the meat is tender. If cooked in a 
casserole it may be served in the same dish. It may 
also be cooked in a fireless cooker, 



220 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Meat Balls with Horseradish Sauce 

One pound of chopped steak, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one-sixth teaspoonful of paprika, one onion. Chop meat 
and onion together, season, make into firm balls, sear in 
butter in saucepan, reduce temperature, turn balls often 
and serve rare. Horseradish sauce : one-half cupful of 
horseradish, one-half cupful of cracker dust, one tea- 
spoonful of salt,, one-sixteenth teaspoonful of pepper, 
one-half cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
one-quarter cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar. I\Iix salt and pepper, cracker dust, and 
horseradish. ]\Iake a paste of mustard and cream in a 
spoon, add it with cream to the mixture : add full amount 
of vinegar if horseradish is fresh, and heat the materials 
in a double boiler. Serve hot. 



Roast Leg of Mutton 

While roasting tl:fc mutton, as directed in the chapter 
on roasting meats, baste very frequently, that it may be 
moist, then serve surrounded with a puree of French 
beans. Breton style, which is made as follows : Cover 
one pound of white haricot beans with hot water, and 
cook until thoroughly done. The time is not given, be- 
cause it varies with the condition of the beans as well as 
the hardness of the water. The beans should simmer 
slowly, and only enough water used to keep them covered. 
When they are soft, mash them in their own liquor, press 
the beans through a fine sieve, return to the fire and 
reheat, stirring carefully to prevent burning, and if the 
puree is too thick, thin it with a little of the mutton 
gravy. Heap about the mutton, or press through a pastry 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 221 

tube in forms. Serve mutton and beans with currant or 
grape jelly. 

Lamb Souffle 

Pass two cupfuls of cold lamb through the meat chop- 
per, add a little minced parsley, a small cupful of cream 
sauce, a dash of onion juice, pepper and salt to taste; 
two slices of minced cooked bacon, and one beaten ^gg 
yolk. Gook this over hot water until the ingredients are 
all heated and then allow to cook. Fold in when quite 
cold the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, turn into but- 
tered souffle cups that have been placed in a pan of hot 
water, and cook for half an hour in a rather quick oven. 
Serve immediately accompanied by brown bread sand- 
wiches. 

Lamb Timbales 

Cook together for five minutes two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, one-half cupful of soft bread crumbs, and one cup- 
ful of milk. Add one cupful of finely chopped, cold 
cooked lamb, two slightly beaten eggs, one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and turn 
into buttered timbale molds. Bake, having molds sur- 
rounded by water, until the mixture is firm. Serve with 
a cream sauce to which have been added two canned 
pimientos which have been rubbed through a sieve. 



Veal with Sour Cream Gravy 

Prepare a loin or shoulder of veal for roasting, cut 
strips of fat salt pork and lay over the meat and in the 



222. THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

bottom of the pan. Baste frequently with thick sour 
cream and, after the first half-hour, cook slowly until 
meat is done. ]Make a gravy as usual, allowing two 
tablespoonfuls of fat and two tablespoonfuls of flour to 
each cupful, or half-pint, of liquid. The cream gives the 
veal a delicious flavor, and the meat is very white when 
treated in this way. 

Bavarian Veal Chops 

Place in a stew pan six loin chops, with a sliced onion, 
six slices of carrot, two cloves, and a few peppercorns, 
one ounce of butter, and enough boiling water to cover. 
Cook slowly until meat is tender. Drain, season with 
salt and pepper, dip in ^gg. roll in flour, and saute in 
pork-fat until brown. Serve on platter with boiled 
macaroni mixed with soubise sauce. For the sauce, use 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
one cupful of the water in which chops were cooked, salt, 
pepper, and bring to boiling point. A\'hen thickened, add 
one-half cupful of cream or milk, and a puree of boiled 
onions, made by cooking two cupfuls of sliced onions, 
until soft, then forcing them through a puree sieve. 

Veal Cutlet, Baked 

Remove bone and carefully trim a cutlet of veal. 
Place in a buttered baking dish, on a thinly sliced onion. 
Add one cupful of stewed and strained tomato, one table- 
spoonful each of minced green pepper and parsley, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of 
paprika, and a few grains pepper. Bake half an hour. 
Remove to a hot platter, and pour over it the sauce 
from pan. 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 223 

Veal Dandy 

Season a pan with butter, salt and pepper, and a little 
sage (use but a little to give the mere suggestion of its 
flavor). Then place in the pan tiny strips of thinly cut 
fat salt pork, then about a pound and a half of veal 
steak, which has been cut thick and from which all 
outer edge and bone have been removed ; then season, 
and add some squares of thinly cut bread; season again 
and place more strips of pork — (a half-pound of pork 
is enough) — add a good inch of water; start cooking in 
the hot oven as usual, then turn the fire low. If this is 
rightly cooked the veal should be a deep rose color, very 
tender, and no trace of the pork remaining. 



Veal Paprika 

Take two pounds of loin of veal. Have the veal cut 
in good-sized pieces. Put a tablespoonful of fat or drip- 
pings into the pot. Add two onions sliced, make red 
with paprika. Let this cook until the onions are well 
done but not brown. Add the meat, which is well 
sprinkled with salt. Cover and let them brown thor- 
oughly. Turn occasionally so it will brown on all sides. 
Let it simmer for a while in its own juice, then just cover 
it with boiling water and let it simmer for one hour. 
This is very good served with boiled spaghetti which has 
been seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt. 



Creamed Veal 

Cut enough cold veal into fine pieces to fill two cups. 
Season to taste with pepper, salt, mace, and add a little 



224 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

parsley, according to one's liking; pour over this one 
cupful of milk, put this on the stove and let it come to 
a boil, and then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour which 
have been previously rubbed smooth with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Serve on toast. 



Veal Loaf 

]\Iix well together three pounds of finely chopped veal 
(the neck or fore-quarter veal is very good i with one- 
half pound of salt pork. Add four common crackers 
(one-half cupful), rolled fine, one teaspoonful of black 
pepper with one-half teaspoonful of nutmeg and two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt. Add three beaten eggs and make into 
a loaf. Bake one hour and a half or two hours in a slow 
oven. Baste with butter. Put on the outside of the loaf 
a small quantity of the rolled cracker. This loaf may 
be made with only one tgg, using one-fourth cupful of 
milk. 

Spare-Ribs Stuffed with Apples and Prunes 

Sew together several pounds of fresh spare-ribs, so 
that they form a pocket, then stuff with the following : 
One pound of prunes boiled for five minutes (pour the 
juice of the prunes into a bowl ). Peel and cut a quart 
of sour apples into small pieces, then mix them with the 
prunes, adding to this mixture, sugar, a little cinnamon, 
and a tablespoonful of cracker dust. Put this stufiing 
into the spare-ribs and sew the pocket together. Put 
juice of the prunes into pan in which the spare-ribs are 
to be roasted, and cook in the oven for one hour. 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 225 

Parisian Pork Tenderloins in the Chafing Dish 

Remove the small rounds of meat from the under part 
of the pork ribs and place in the chafing dish, together 
with a cupful of the brown gravy, a few drops of 
tabasco sauce, half a cupfirl of tomato catsup, a pinch 
each of salt and celery salt, and a small piece of butter; 
simmer only until the meat is thoroughly heated, then 
place over the hot water pan, stirring in a cupful of 
cooked macaroni that has been cut in small pieces ; serve 
very hot on squares of fried hominy, garnished with crisp 
parsley. 

Philadelphia Scrapple 

Cleanse and scrape well a pig's head and feet and boil 
until tender, putting on the fire in cold water with some 
onions, carrots, two of each, some pieces of turnip, salt, 
and pepper, and a dash of paprika. When tender re- 
move from the liquor and put the meat through a meat 
chopper ; extract all grease and boil again in some good 
rich stock. To each three pounds of meat, add one pound 
of Indian meal and one pound of rolled oats. Cook in 
double boiler for an hour. It should be very thick like 
porridge. Sugar added to the scrapple improves it. 
Wet molds or square bread tins in cold water, fill with 
scrapple, and set away to cool. When wanted for use, 
slice, dip in crumbs, and fry in butter. 



Kentucky Ham 

Select a small ham. Soak over night if very salt. 
Then wash thoroughly in cold water, and cover wnth a 



226 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

layer of baking soda, which is scrubbed into the ham 
with a brush. Rinse oft* and trim neatly and place in 
a bake pan. I\Iix the seasoning, consisting of half a tea- 
spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, celery seed, and 
pepper. Rub the whole into the surface of the ham and 
cover with a very thick layer of onion, minced fine. 
Cover the whole with a layer of pastr\' made by mixing 
smoothly a cup of sifted flour in half a cup of water. 
This pastry is rolled out thin and wound about the ham 
closely. The pan is then filled with boiled cider and 
placed in the oven to bake slowly and steadily for four 
hours with frequent bastings from the cider. Serve with 
candied sweet potatoes, baked squash, and spinach with 
a relish of apple sauce. 



Southern Ham 

Wash and soak for two hours two large slices of lean 
ham. cut at least an inch thick. Butter the bottom of a 
casserole ; then add pepper and a sprinkling of brown 
sugar; then place upon this the ham. add more bits of 
butter, and more sprinklings of the brown sugar, with 
water the depth of the ham. Cover and -cook in a 
casserole, in a slow oven all the afternoon. 



Baked Sliced Ham 

Place in a baking pan a slice of ham cut one inch 
thick. If the ham is not "mild cured" it should be 
soaked in cold water an hour. Sprinkle on top a little 
powdered mustard, brown sugar, and two tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar. Add a little water, bake about forty minutes. 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 227 

basting often. Add a little boiling water to the gravy 
but do not thicken. 

Baked Ham 

Choose a small, thin-skinned ham, and scrub well. Put 
into a kettle, cover with cold water to which is added 
one cup molasses. Bring to a boil, and simmer until 
ham is tender. Remove from water, and place in a 
baking pan. Trim off rind and some fat, leaving a layer 
half an inch thick. Stick full of cloves, cover thickly 
with dark brown sugar, moistened with one cup sherry, 
white wine or cider. Place in a moderate oven, and 
bake slowly for two hours. It is better to cook the ham 
longer in the oven, and less time in the water, as it is 
less likely to drop apart, in which case it is extremely 
difficult to carve. 

Ham Timbales 

To one cupful of lean chopped ham add half a cupful 
of stale bread crumbs and one cupful of cream sauce 
made with one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, one cupful of milk, one-fourth teaspoonful 
of salt, and a few grains of cayenne ; add a slightly beaten 
tgg and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Pour 
into buttered timbale molds or small cups and bake in 
a pan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Arrange on 
a platter or on individual dishes and surround with 
drawn butter sauce. Garnish with parsley. 

Noodle and Ham Pudding 

One-pound package of medium-sized noodles, one cup- 
ful of cream or milk, three-quarters of a pound of cold 
boiled ham, and a dash of pepper or paprika. Boil the 



228 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

noodles about ten minutes in water, add a scant table- 
spoonful of salt, then remove the noodles from boiling 
water, put into a colander, and pour cold water over them. 
(This prevents the noodles from sticking together.) 
Put a layer of noodles in a baking dish and then sprinkle 
ham over the noodles, repeat this, leaving a layer of 
noodles as the final layer, pour over this the milk or 
cream. Bake in the oven for thirty minutes. 

. Ham Trifle 

Chop one cupful of cold boiled ham, three hard cooked 
eggs, and five soda crackers. Heat two cupfuls of milk, 
add to this a good-sized piece of butter, and thicken with 
one teaspoonful of flour and one teaspoonful of dry 
mustard. Stir into this the chopped ham, eggs, and 
crackers, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley. 
Put in a baking dish and bake for half an hour. 

Sausage Bundles 

Roll out plain paste in six-inch squares, rather thin. 
Cut Frankfurt sausages in thin slices, rejecting the skin, 
and lay the slices in two rows in the centers of the pieces 
of paste ; double, pinch ends together, and fold as you 
would do up a bundle, wetting the edges to make them 
stick ; then place them on ice until ready to bake. Bake 
them in a hot oven fifteen minutes, and serve hot with 
French or German mustard. This is a popular dish for 
Sunday night supper, especially with men. 

Liver vi^ith Bechamel Sauce 

Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful 
of flour, add a little salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 229 

and cayenne, and one-half cupful of stock. When boil- 
ing add one teaspoonful each of Worcestershire sauce 
and lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls of cream mixed 
with one yolk and one cupful of cold, cooked liver cut 
in dice. Serve in ramekins. 



German Luncheon Dish 

Cook spinach in the usual way, and heap on the middle 
of a platter. Garnish with slices of hard cooked eggs, 
and place round all, some thin slices of broiled bacon. 

Deviled Kidney 

Soak the kidney in cold water and cook in soup 
stock to which have been added a minced onion, a bay 
leaf, a stalk of chopped celery, and diced carrot. When 
tender drain and chop as finely as possible (rejecting any 
skin or strings). Season highly with salt and paprika, 
and add two tablespoonfuls of grated bread crumbs and 
a small cupful of tomato catsup; then turn into shallow 
baking shells, and after sprinkling with browned bread 
crumbs, bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes; serve 
in the shells garnished with parsley. 

Masked Sweetbreads 

Blanch one pound of sweetbreads, remove pipes and 
skin, and put through the meat grinder with two slices 
of salt pork. Form into cutlet shapes, and pin them 
tight in cheesecloth to keep their shapes. Place on ice. 
After an hour or two saute them on one side only in a 
little butter for five minutes and place them in a buttered 



230 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

baking-pan, cooked side up. When cool, cover them 
with a masking preparation made as follows : Cover a 
small peeled onion with cold water, place on the fire and 
boil for five minutes, drain dry, and cut in slices. Saute 
the slices in one tablespoonful of butter until slightly 
brown, add one cupful of stock, and cook until tender; 
press through a sieve with the stock. i\Ielt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, add a third of a cupful of flour, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a little paprika. Add enough 
cream to the onion and stock mixture to make one and 
a third cupfuls and add this to the mixture in saute pan ; 
when boiling, add one large ^gg, or one tgg and an extra 
yolk, cook for a moment, remove from the fire, and add 
a dash of cayenne and nutmeg. Cover the sweetbreads 
about a fourth of an inch. Cool, then cover with soft 
bread crumbs rolled in melted butter ; place a whole 
mushroom, partly cooked in butter, on each cutlet, and 
garnish with slices or stripes of truffle or red and green 
pepper. Bake ten minutes. Serve with a brown mush- 
room sauce around the edge of platter, with a mound of 
fried eggplant straws in the center. 

Apples Stuffed for Roast Pork 

xA-dd a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of minced onion, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper to two 
and a half cupfuls of white stock ; simmer for twenty 
minutes and strain. Pare and core ten tart apples. 
Place in the bottom of agate pan ; pour the strained stock 
over them and simmer until they can be pierced with a 
fork ; carefully remove them from the stock, and set 
aside to cool. Blanch two cupfuls of chestnut meats, 
slice, cover with the stock, add four teaspoonfuls of cur- 
rant jelly, and simmer until tender. If the meats are too 



JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 231 

moist, drain. Fill the center of the apples with the 
chestnut mixture and serve with roast pork. This recipe 
will serve a dozen persons. 

Currant Mint Sauce 

Beat one-half tumbler of currant jelly with a fork 
until quite smooth ; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
fresh mint, the grated rind of half an orange, one-fourth 
teaspoonful of salt, and a few grains of cayenne. Serve 
with lamb chops or a crown of lamb. 

Cranberry Relish 

Two quarts of cranberries, three and a half pounds of 
white sugar, one pound of seeded raisins, the rind of 
two oranges, chopped very fine, one cup of vinegar, juice 
of two oranges, one teaspoonful each of ginger, cloves, 
and cinnamon. Cook all to a marmalade, and put in jars. 
This is excellent with cold meats, especially chicken, tur- 
key, and game. 

Horseradish Sauce 

Beat one cupful of cream until stifT, then add two 
tablespoonfuls of fresh, or three tablespoonfuls of evapo- 
rated, horseradish root, one tablespoonful of vinegar, 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful 
of paprika. Good with roast beef, or veal, or on toma- 
toes to be served as a salad. 

Braised Tongue 

A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue 
in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two 



232 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

hours. Take tongue from water, drench with cold water, 
remove skin and membranes ; fasten the tip around against 
the thick part, tying or skewering firmly. Fry two onions, 
one turnip, and one carrot, all cut fine, in butter until 
brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Flour the 
tongue all over and put into a hot pan with the butter. 
Turn it on all sides until browned slightly. Put the 
tongue, the fried vegetables, a small piece of stick cinna- 
mon, one clove, and a bunch of sweet herbs into a 
casserole. Add one quart of the liquor in which the 
tongue was boiled. Close the lid as tightly as possible to 
keep in the steam. Place in the oven. After one and 
one-half hours open, turn the tongue, and add the juice 
of one lemon. Close as before and leave one-half an 
hour longer in the oven. Now put the tongue on a hot 
dish, and set it over hot water while the gravy is being 
boiled down for fifteen to twenty minutes. If it is not 
quite thick enough, mix two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch 
with a little cold water, stir it into the boiling gravy, and 
boil two or three minutes. Strain some of the gravy over 
the tongue and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. 
Tongue braised in this manner may be served surrounded 
by a soft puree of potatoes well seasoned with plenty of 
butter or rich hot cream, salt, and pepper. Serve all the 
sauce in a sauce-boat. 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 233 



^234 MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 



MORE WAYS OP COOKING MEATS 2^^ 



236 MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 




DESSERTS 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

HIS is a class of food products which appeal 
particularly to the taste and are not of any 
particular value from the nutritional point of 
view. I do not say this because I think 
desserts have no food value. They are 
usually made largely of sugar, which has a 
very considerable food value, but that is not 
the question at this point. When the dessert is served, 
as a rule the man who sits at the table has already eaten 
all he ought to. The dessert simply comes then as a 
burden to digestion. I do not mean at all to imply that 
the recipes that follow are of no value. This is not my 
meaning at all. The thing I wish to impress upon the 
reader is that desserts pander to the taste rather than 
minister to the needs of the body. Desserts, therefore, 
should be delicate and not served in very large quantities, 
and the diner who has his own welfare at heart will 
save a place for them. The sugars which enter so largely 
into the desserts are food products, but minister only 
to the production of heat and energy and the formation 
of fat. The deposition of adipose matter is the Nemesis 
which follows the over-eater. 



237 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 




HE first fresh-apple pie of the late summer 
has a flavor quite unlike those made with 
winter apples, and its appearance on the table 
is hailed with gustatory delight by those who 
are familiar with its delicious qualities. The 
excessive use of pastry, common in the old 
times, is not recommended ; but a pie made 
of light flaky paste, delicately flavored fruit, well baked 
and eaten while fresh, may occasionally help to complete 
a dinner when the first course is somewhat light. A pie 
like those often served at grandmother's may be made 
this way : 



Apple Pie 



Line a pie plate with pastry made in these proportions 
for one pie. One-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and one 
rounded tablespoonful of lard rubbed into one heaped 
cupful of sifted pastry flour. Wet with cold water to a 
stiff dough. Pat with rolling pin into an oblong, half 
inch thick, spread with one rounded tablespoonful of 
cold, hard butter in little dabs, dredge with flour, roll 
over, then pat down flat and roll, into a long narrow 
piece; roll over like a jelly roll and divide in middle. 
Stand one-half on end, pat flat, and roll out to fit the 
plate, a trifle large to allow for shrinking. 

Fill the plate with pared and sliced tart apples. Roll 

239 



240 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

the other crust and lay it on Hghtly without pressing 
edges together. Bake in a hot oven, and when brown 
and the apples are soft, run a knife between the crusts. 
Remove the top carefully to another plate. To the hot 
apple add a teaspoonful of butter and a mixture of half 
a cupful of sugar (or more if liked very sweet), a slight 
dash of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of any spice 
preferred, nutmeg, cinnamon, or allspice, or grated lemon 
rind. Mix carefully till butter and sugar melt, cover with 
top crust and serve. Or, take out part of the seasoned 
apple, lay the upper crust with top down on the pie, and 
cover with the remaining apple. Serve while warm. 

For festive occasions cover the top with whipped 
sweetened cream ; or with a meringue of two tgg whites, 
and two heaped tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar fla- 
vored with lemon juice, and brown it slightly. 

Mincemeat Without Meat 

Chop together one peck of green tomatoes and one 
dozen large apples. Add one tablespoonful of ground 
cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoon- 
fuls of allspice, one grated nutmeg, five pounds of brown 
sugar, two pounds of raisins, one pound of finely 
shredded citron. Chop two oranges and two lemons, 
and add with one cupful of vinegar and any jelly or fruit 
juice that you may have. Cook all together until toma- 
toes are tender. Then add brandy when making into 
pies. 

Mock Cherry Pie 

Chop one quart of cranberries, add two and one-half 
cupfuls of sugar, or if preferred, two cupfuls of sugar 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 241 

and one-half cupful of molasses. Then add one table- 
spoonful of flour, with one-half cupful of water, or one 
tablespoonful of cornstarch, wet with a little cold water 
to which one cupful of boiling water is added. If liked, 
add one cupful of chopped raisins. This makes two 
pies. 

Lemon Sticks 

Make a good paste, using one and one-half cupfuls of 
flour, sifted with one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, one^ 
fourth cupful of lard and butter, or other shortening, and 
ice-water enough to make a stiff dough. Roll out one- 
fourth inch thick, cut into strips one inch wide by four 
inches long. Bake in a quick oven. When cool, split 
and fill with lemon filling. Cook together one-half cup- 
ful of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, juice and rind 
of one lemon, one tgg, and one tablespoonful of butter, 
until thick. Cool and use to fill the pastry. 

Transparent Pie 

Line a pie-plate with a good pastry, and fill with the 
following mixture : Cream together one cupful of butter 
and two cupfuls of sugar; add the beaten yolks of four 
eggs and two tablespoonfuls of jelly. Bake until firm; 
cover with a meringue made by beating the whites of eggs 
with three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar and 
one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Bake fifteen minutes in 
a slow oven. 

Thanksgiving Brambles 

To one cupful raisins, seeded and chopped fine, add 
one lemon: juice, pulp, and grated rind; one-half cupful 



242 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of sugar, one ^gg, one tablespoonful of cracker-dust with 
one-half cup of chopped nutmeats. Put one tablespoon- 
ful of the mixture on a round, cut from plain pastry and 
three inches in diameter. Cover with another round, 
pinch edges together tightly, prick the top crust with a 
fork, and bake. If the fruit mixture seems very still, 
add a little water. 

Pumpkin Pie 

Into a quart of stewed, strained, and cooled pumpkin 
stir a quart of rich milk, a cupful of granulated sugar, 
cinnamon, and nutmeg to taste, and, when these are well 
mixed, six eggs beaten light. Beat all together for a 
minute, and pour the mixture into deep pie-plates lined 
with the very best pastry you can make. Bake in a mod- 
erately hot oven. When the custard is " set," lay paper 
over the pies until five minutes before taking them out 
of the oven. Then set upon the upper grating of the 
oven to brown. Eat cold, with American cheese. 

Date Pie 

Wash one pound of dates and soak over night, stew 
in same water till soft enough to rub through colander. 
Add one cupful of sour cream, two level tablespoonfuls 
of butter, yolks of three eggs, one teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon, one of nutmeg, and a little salt. Bake in one crust. 
Make a meringue of whites of eggs, if liked. 

Butterscotch Pie 

One cupful of sour cream, one tablespoonful of butter, 
one of flour, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of brown 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 243 

sugar, teaspoonful of vanilla, and a little salt. Beat to- 
gether, pour into one crust, and bake. Make meringue 
of whites of eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Brown in very slow oven. 

Cream Pie 

Mix one-half cupful of powdered sugar, and one-half 
cupful of flour, little salt. Spread over lower crust, then 
turn on one cupful of sour cream, stirring very lightly, 
not to break crust. Grate nutmeg over top, and bake in 
quick oven. 

Sour Cream Pie, No. 2 

One cupful sour cream, one cupful of sugar, one Qgg, 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, salt, cinnamon, and cloves to taste. Beat, and 
bake between two crusts. 

Pineapple Turnovers 

Roll plain paste thin and cut into four-inch squares. 
Upon each place one rounding tablespoonful of fresh 
sweetened pineapple drained from the syrup or pineapple 
preserve. Moisten edges of two sides with water or milk 
and fold into a triangle, pinching the edges together. 
Bake, or fry, in deep fat. Serve warm, sprinkled with 
powdered sugar. 

Steamed Date Pudding 

Cream half a cupful of butter, add one cupful of 
molasses, one cupful of milk, one pound of stoned and 



244 T'HE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

chopped dates, mixed with two cupfuls of stale bread 
crumbs, one teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoonful 
each of clove, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg, mixed and 
sifted with one cupful of entire wheat flour. Turn into 
a buttered pudding-tin and steam three hours. Serve 
with creamy sauce. 

Brov^n Betty 

To one quart of milk, one-fourth cupful of Indian meal 
scalded in the milk, add one cupful of sugar, one-half 
cupful of molasses, a dash of salt and ginger, one table- 
spoonful of butter, three-quarters of a cupful of raisins, 
one-half cupful of nuts. Put in oven and bake slowly 
about three and one-half hours. 

Rhubarb Pudding 

Sift together two cupfuls of flour, a pinch of salt, 
spices as desired, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
and half a cupful of sugar. Stir in one ^gg beaten with 
half a cupful of milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter; 
add two cupfuls of rhubarb cut into small pieces (use the 
pink part with the skin left on), bake twenty minutes, 
and serve with a sauce. 

Bread Pudding 

Pour one quart of hot milk over half of an ordinary 
loaf of stale bread, mash this mixture until smooth and 
add one tablespoonful of butter. When this is cool, add 
three well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful of white sugar, 
a little nutmeg, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cup- 




Ivory Cream. 
Recipe on Page 2^2. 




Grandmother^ s Strawberry Shortcake. 
Recipe on Page 24^. 




Gooseberry Amber. 
Recipe on Page 260. 




Steamed Rice, Molded and Garnished with Cherries. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 245 

ful of mixed citron, seeded raisins, and currants. Bake 
or boil this about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot 
with hard sauce. 



Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake 

Stem two boxes of strawberries. Reserve one cupful 
of the nicest berries for the top of the shortcake. Mash 
the remainder, add a half-cupful of sugar, and stir a 
minute to dissolve the sugar. Sift one pint of flour with 
a half-teaspoonful of salt and two level teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder. Rub in one tablespoonful of butter, and 
add enough milk just to moisten. Knead quickly, and 
roll out in the shape of the pan in which it is to be 
baked. Brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven for 
twenty minutes. Pull it apart without cutting — you 
can do this easily with two forks. Remove a portion of 
the crumb from the center, butter both pieces, place the 
bottom on the serving-dish, pour over the mashed berries, 
put on the top, garnish it neatly with the whole berries, 
dust thickly with powdered sugar, and send to the table 
with a pitcher of cream. 



Bunuelos 

Mix together one cupful of flour, one and one-half 
teaspoonfuls of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of sugar. 
Beat one tgg slightly, add three-quarters of a cupful of 
milk, and combine with dry materials. Add one table- 
spoonful of olive oil. Fry on a rosette iron in deep fat, 
and serve with an 



246 THE PURE FOOD COOK ^OOK 

Almond Sauce 

Grind two ounces of blanched almonds, and cook for 
ten minutes with one and one-half cupfuls of milk and one 
cupful of sugar. Add the yolk of egg after removing 
from the fire. 

Suet Pudding 

One teacupful of New Orleans molasses, one of sweet 
milk, one of chopped suet, three and one-half cupfuls of 
flour, one and one-half cupfuls of raisins, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
a little salt. Steam three hours. 

Sauce for Suet Pudding 

One-half cupful of butter creamed with one cupful 
of sugar, then add five tablespoonfuls of boiling water, 
one at a time. Flavor. 

Caramel Bread Pudding 

Scald one quart of milk, add one-half cupful of sugar 
which has been caramelized. When caramel is dissolved, 
pour the milk over two cups of stale bread crumbs. Add 
two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
Pour into a buttered pudding dish, and bake slowdy one 
hour. Serve with cream, plain or beaten. 

Apple and Bread Crumb Pudding 

Spread the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with 
a thick layer of bread crumbs well browned. Add lumps 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 2^7 

of butter, then a layer of well-sweetened apple-sauce, a 
sprinkling of salt and nutmeg, more lumps of butter, 
layer of crumbs, alternating with layers of apple-sauce 
until the dish is filled. Have the top layer of crumbs and 
butter. Bake covered for half an hour, then remove 
cover and brown. To elaborate add raisins, currants, and 
nuts. Serve hot with hard sauce. 

Apricot Dumplings 

Drain stewed apricots as dry as possible, and enclose 
two or three pieces of apricots in a round of rich biscuit 
dough rolled rather thin. Place the dumplings in a deep 
basin, sprinkle generously with sugar, nearly cover with 
boiling juice, dot with butter, and bake in a rather quick 
oven. Peach recipes can be adapted to dried apricots 
with delicious results. 

Brown Sugar Pudding 

Two cupfuls of light brown sugar; two cupfuls of 
boiling water, two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, 
one-half cupful of walnut meats broken into small pieces. 
Bring sugar and water to a boil. Thicken with corn- 
starch which has first been moistened in a little cold 
water. Cook in a double boiler until it is thick. Just 
before taking from the fire add the nut meats. Serve 
cold with whipped cream. 

Baked Indian and Apple Pudding 

Stir half a cupful of yellow cornmeal into one 
quart of scalded milk. Cook in a double boiler for 



248 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

thirty minutes, then add one teaspoonful each of sah and 
ginger, and half a cupful of molasses. Pour into a but- 
tered earthen baking dish, and bake for one hour, stirring 
occasionally. Add two cupfuls of apples, cored and cut 
in eighths, and bake, without stirring, for one hour 
longer, or until firm. Serve wuth cream. 

To Prepare a Souffle Tin 

Select a plain tin mold which will hold two cupfuls. 
Butter this well. Butter a double piece of thick white 
paper, and wrap it around the outside of the tin. Allow 
the paper to extend two inches above the top of the tin, 
then tie it securely. The paper should be removed just 
before serving the souffle. 

Lemon Pudding 

Beat the yolks of three eggs, and mix with three- 
fourths cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of butter. 
Beat thoroughly and add the juice of three good-sized 
lemons, with the grated rind of one lemon, and two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped walnuts. Fold in the whites 
of three eggs beaten until stiff, and bake in a buttered 
souffle tin until it sets. 

Lemon Bread Pudding 

Soak one cup of bread crumbs one hour in one pint of 
milk. The bread must be just right; second-day bread 
is best, not dry, nor broken in pieces, nor grated, but 
moist enough to be crumbled. Add one-half cup of 
sugar — more if liked — the grated rind of one-half a 



jusr HOW ro make desserts 249 

lemon, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake slowly 
about one-half hour. Cool and place on ice. Just before 
using, if made the day before, beat the whites of the two 
eggs until stiff, add juice of one-half a lemon, and a little 
sugar. Place the meringue on the pudding and brown 
in the oven. Then cool quickly and set on ice, for it 
adds to the flavor if very cold. 



Maple Tapioca Pudding 

Soak one cupful of tapioca in cold water or milk to 
cover, then cook in a double boiler until clear. Add the 
well-beaten yolks of two eggs, one-quarter teaspoonful 
of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, a third-cupful of 
powdered maple sugar, and one cupful of milk. Mix 
all thoroughly, then stir in the stiffly beaten whites of 
the eggs, and bake. If preferred, the whites may be re- 
served, sweetened, and spread over the baked pudding 
as a meringue, then lightly browned. 



Rice Waffles with Maple Syrup 

Soak one and one-half cupfuls of cooked rice in enough 
warm water to cover. Add two and two-thirds cupfuls 
of sour milk, two and one-half cupfuls of sifted flour, 
one level teaspoonful of salt, and one beaten egg. Beat 
all together thoroughly, and just before frying, beat in 
one-half teaspoonful of soda. Have the waffle iron very 
hot and use plenty of fat. Put a spoonful of the mixture 
into each compartment, cover and brown, then turn and 
brown on the other side. Serve the waffles with maple 
syrup as a luncheon or supper dish. 



250 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Persimmon Pudding 

Two ciipfuls of sugar and. a scant cupful of butter 
rubbed to a cream. Beat the yolks and the whites of 
five eggs separately and whip the yolks into the creamed 
butter and sugar. Whip for one minute and add a quart 
of milk gradually, beating all the while. Now stir in a 
scant quart of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful of 
baking powder alternately with the stiffened whites of 
the eggs. Season to taste with cinnamon and mace 
(ground). At the last, beat in a quart of persimmons 
which have been seeded and washed, and run through 
your vegetable press to a smooth pulp. This should 
make two large puddings. Bake in buttered molds which 
have funnels through the middle. They will require an 
hour's baking in a steady oven. Bake for three-quarters 
of an hour covered with paper. Turn out carefully, sift 
powdered sugar over them, and eat hot with cream. This 
quantity will serve twelve. 

Foamy Pudding Sauce 

One cupful of sugar ; two eggs. Beat sugar and yolks 
together in a bowl, set in boiling water. Then add whites, 
beaten stiff. Put a small piece of butter and one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla in a bowl and pour the hot sauce 
over just before serving. 

Nut Cream Sauce 

Cream together one-fourth of a cupful of butter and 
half a cupful of powdered sugar, beating in slowly one 
tablespoonful of thick maple syrup, three tablespoonfuls 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 251 

of whipped cream, and a small cupful of chopped nut 
meats. Keep in a cool place until ready to serve. 

Creamy Sauce 

To the beaten whites of two eggs add one cupful of 
powdered sugar gradually and one cupful of whipped 
cream. Add one teaspoonful of vinegar and half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla. Use as soon as prepared. 

Maple Hard Sauce 

Add one tablespoonful of butter, creamed, to three 
tablespoonfuls of powdered maple sugar; beat together 
until creamy, then add one teaspoonful of thick, sweet 
cream, and beat hard for five minutes. Chill before 
serving. Maple syrup may be used by boiling it with 
half its quantity of water until it will make a soft ball 
when a little is dropped into cold water. Stir until grainy 
and let it harden ; then grate or grind to a powder. 

Ambrosia 

Grate one fresh cocoanut, slice four oranges, four 
bananas, and one medium-sized pineapple. Fill a dish 
with alternate layers of all of the fruit and cocoanut, 
sugaring each layer to taste. Arrange it so that the 
cocoanut will come on the last layer. Assemble this 
dish at least three hours before it is to be served, and 
set on the ice. 

Sillabub 

Sweeten and season to taste two cupfuls of milk, and 
one cupful of thick cream, with vanilla, nutmeg, and 
cinnamon. Churn this in a sillabub churn or with a 



252 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

cream whip. Skim off the froth as it rises until it is all 
whipped and heap this on the dishes and serve imme- 
diately. This can be served on fresh or warmed-over 
cakes, or on lady-fingers. 

Ivory Cream 

Scald one pint of thin cream ; add three-fourths cupful 
of sugar and one tablespoonful of gelatine, which has 
been soaked in one- fourth cupful of cold water. Cool, 
add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and as it begins to stiffen 
fold in one cupful of cream, beaten until stiff. ]\Iold, 
and serve garnished with whipped cream and maraschino 
cherries, or use blackberries for both sauce and garnish. 

Baked Apples with Marshmallovv 

Wash and core tart apples and place in an earthen- 
ware baking dish with just enough water to cover the 
bottom. In the center of each apple place a tiny bit of 
butter and an eighth of a teaspoonful of salt. Cover 
and bake slowly till thoroughly cooked, adding a little 
water if necessary. Before the apples are quite done, 
press into the center of each a marshmallow ; replace in 
the oven ; in three minutes remove the cover and let the 
apples and marshmallows brown carefully. Serve cold 
with cream. Pears may be cooked in the same way. cut- 
ting a slice from the stem end, coring and placing 
the pear stem end up in the dish. 

Coffee Souffle 

Heat one pint of cold coff'ee with one tablespoonful of 
gelatine and one-half cupful of sugar. Pour onto the 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 253 

slightly beaten yolks of two eggs, cook over water until 
thickened. Remove from fire, add one teaspoonful of 
vanilla, one-eighth teaspoonful of salt, the stiffly beaten 
whites of two eggs, and allow the mixture to cool. As 
it begins to stiffen fold in one cupful of stiffly beaten 
cream. Mold and chill. 



Prune Tapioca 

Cut into quarters prunes that have been slowly stewed 
with sugar and a little grated lemon peel, and pour over 
the fruit when cold the following: Soak a cupful of 
tapioca in a pint of water for two hours, then cover with 
rich milk and cook until tender, stirring in just before 
removing from the fire the yolks of two well-beaten eggs, 
a heaping tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and a dust- 
ing of grated nutmeg. Cover all with a meringue made 
from the whites of the eggs and serve cold with a sauce 
made from the prune syrup. 

Apricot Mousse 

Soak over night half a pound of dried apricots and in 
the morning cook in the same water until tender, sweet- 
ening to taste; then drain and to about a pint of the 
fruit syrup add a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been 
dissolved in a little hot water; allow it to cool but not 
stiffen, and then fold in the stiffly whipped whites of two 
eggs and a cupful of whipped cream ; beat steadily until 
it is a light creamy mass, gradually adding the chopped 
apricots as you beat ; pour carefully into an ornamental 
mold, placing directly on the ice to chill ; unmold at serv- 
ing time and serve with an iced custard sauce. 



254 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Peach Melba 

Place in the bottom of a wide-brimmed glass half of 
a preserved peach, cover this with a layer of French 
vanilla ice cream, laying the other half of the peach 
on top : now cap with a tiny pyramid of sweetened 
whipped cream and pour over two tablespoonfuls of the 
peach syrup. Serve garnished with small crystallized 
cherries. 

Princess Cream 

Whip one pint of cream, add sugar, and flavor with 
vanilla. Grate some stale cake (sponge cake preferably), 
and moisten slightly with milk or water. Take a glass 
bowl, put in a layer of the cream, then a layer of the cake 
crumbs, putting little pieces of jelly on top of the cake, 
then another layer of cream, and so on; the top layer 
should be of cream decorated with jelly. 

Hamburg Sponge 

Place in the upper part of the double boiler one pint of 
milk, adding two well-beaten eggs and a heaping table- 
spoonful of sugar. Cook only until well thickened, and 
then remove from the fire, stirring in half a package of 
gelatine dissolved in a little hot water. Flavor with the 
juice and grated rind of an orange, and when the cream 
begins to cool and stiffen, beat to a foam with an egg- 
beater, folding in one tablespoonful of powdered sugar 
and a half pint of cream beaten solid: turn into wide- 
rimmed glasses that have been lined with macaroons, and 
place directly on the ice to chill. Serve garnished with 
crystallized cherries. (Add more sugar, if desired.) 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 255 

Grapefruit Cocktails 

Shred the pulp of three large grapefruit, carefully re- 
jecting all the white membrane, and place in a china bowl, 
adding four heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
four or five drops of cider vinegar, a little grated nut- 
meg, and the pulp of three tart oranges; allow the in- 
gredients to stand in the ice chest over night (so that a 
rich syrup may form), and when ready to serve put into 
tall, slender glasses, placing on each portion one or two 
red cherries. 



Orange and Grapefruit Cup 

This should always be prepared at least six hours be- 
fore serving. Shred, for each portion, half a grapefruit 
and half of a navel orange, arrange in layers in a stemmed 
crystal glass, sprinkling each layer with confectioner's 
sugar; do not fill the glass too full as a delicious syrup 
will form above the fruit, when placed in the ice chest to 
chill and ripen. Just before serving add a little cherry 
syrup, garnishing with the cherries, and serve very cold. 



Marshmallow Loaf 

Dissolve one tablespoonful of gelatine in half a cupful 
of hot water. Stir into this the beaten whites of four 
eggs. Add one cupful of sugar and half a cupful of 
cold water. Beat for one minute. Divide this mixture 
into three or four parts, flavoring each differently, and 
coloring each differently with vegetable coloring matter. 
Let this stand until it is stiffened, so that the mixture 
will not run. Dust a loaf cake tin with powdered sugar. 



256 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Put in one color, sprinkle with chopped walnuts, then in 
turn put in the other colors, with chopped nuts between 
each layer. Set it on ice to harden, and serve in slices 

with whipped cream. 



Apple Custard 

Take mellow apples of medium size. Pare, core, and 
bake until tender in a slow oven. Press through a sieve. 
To each cupful of apple pulp add half a cupful of cream, 
two level tablespoonfuls of sugar, lump of butjter size of 
egg-, and two stiffly beaten eggs. While the apple pulp is 
still hot, blend into it the butter. Heat the sugar until 
it is a syrup and add first the yolks of eggs, then the 
cream, and beat all vigorously. Pour into buttered cups 
and bake in moderately hot oven for fifteen minutes. 
Remove from the oven and quickly pour over it the stiffly 
beaten whites of the eggs, return to the oven to brown. 
Chill, then set in icebox. Serve with cream. 



Royal Cream 

Soak one-third of a box of gelatine in one quart of 
milk for an hour. Beat the yolks of three eggs and add 
a half-cupful of sugar. Put the milk over the fire in a 
double boiler. When hot. add the sugar and ^gg to it,, 
and stir constantly until creamy. Remove from fire, cool, 
and add the stiffly beaten whites. Beat mixture well for 
five minutes. Add one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn 
into a mold. When cold, serve with whipped or sweet- 
ened cream. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 2^7 
Cocoanut Blancmange 

Mix one-fourth cupful of cornstarch and one-fourth 
cupful of sugar with a little cold water. Add to two 
cupfuls of scalded milk and stir until it thickens. Cook 
in a double boiler for twenty minutes, stirring occa- 
sionally. Cool slightly, add one cupful of shredded 
cocoanut, the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, and one- 
fourth of a cupful of candied or Maraschino cherries, cut 
in small pieces. Chill in molds, wet with cold water, and 
serve with cream or a soft custard made with the yolks 
of eggs. 



Jellied Oatmeal 

Place three cupfuls of water and one of milk in the 
upper part of the double boiler, add a pinch of salt, and 
when boiling, stir in two cupfuls of oatmeal ; cover 
closely and cook for two hours over hot water ; then add, 
just previous to serving, one large cupful of stiffly 
whipped cream ; serve in small dishes, sprinkle thickly 
with chopped nuts, and accompany with sugar and thick 
cream. 



Angel Custard 

Heat a quart of milk in the double boiler and then 
pour it slowly on the stiffly whipped whites of four eggs ; 
sweeten the custard with two scant tablespoonfuls of 
pulverized sugar, flavoring with a drop or two of almond 
extract and one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn into small 
custard cups ; set the cups in a pan of hot water and 



258 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

cook in a moderate oven, until firm; then cover the tops 
with grated macaroon crumbs. 

Pear Ccndet 

Cook one-third cupful of washed rice in milk until 
rice is tender. Add two eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar, 
one-third teaspoonful salt. Turn on to a serving dish, 
and on it arrange halves of canned pears, wdiich have been 
cooked in the syrup. Sprinkle rice and pears with finely 
cut preserved ginger. 

Banana Compote 

Make a syrup by boiling together one cupful of sugar 
and two-thirds of a cupful of water ten minutes. Add 
grated rind and juice of half a lemon, one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of vanilla, and let stand until perfectly cold. 
Pour over four bananas halved and quartered. When 
thoroughly chilled, sprinkle with finely chopped nuts, and 
serve with beaten cream. 

Maple Cup Custards 

Beat three eggs slightly, add a pinch of salt, and three 
tablespoonfuls of scraped maple sugar. Pour over all 
three cupfuls of hot milk with one-fourth cupful of 
thick cream. Of course the latter may be omitted, if 
liked. Fill the custard into wetted custard cups, place 
these in a dish of hot water, and bake in a very slow oven 
until the custard is set. 

Grape Juice Souffle 

To one pint of grape juice, add two tablespoonfuls of 
granulated gelatine, and heat until gelatine is dissolved. 




Strawberry Compote. 
Recipe on Page 2^p. 




Orange Surprise. 
Recipe on Page 260. 




Choiix Pastry. 
Recipe on Page jpo. 




Strawberry Charlotte. 
Recipe on Page 2jp. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 259 

Strain and cool. When mixture begins to stiffen, beat 
in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs, and fold in one 
cupful of stiffly beaten cream. Turn into molds and 
chill. 

Jellied Prunes 

Cook one-third pound of prunes until soft ; remove 
stones, and cut meat in pieces. Soak one-half box of 
gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water, and add to one 
pint of the syrup in which prunes were cooked. Add one 
cupful of sugar, one-fourth cupful of lemon juice, and 
the prunes. Mold and chill. Serve with plain or whipped 
cream. 

Strawberry Charlotte 

Mash one box of prime berries through a colander, 
add two-thirds of a cupful of powdered sugar, and stir 
until it is dissolved. Soak a half-box of granulated 
gelatine in a half-cupful of cold water for thirty min- 
utes, then melt it over hot water. Add the strawberry 
juice, and stir continually until the mixture begins to 
thicken, then fold in a pint of cream whipped. Pour into 
a mold, and stand on ice to harden. Serve plain. 

Strawberry Compote 

Boil one cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of lemon 
juice, and a half-cupful of water together until they spin 
a thread. Pour, while hot, over one box of hulled berries. 
Heap one cupful of boiled rice in the platter, pour the 
hot berries over it, and serve either plain or with cream 
or milk. 



26o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Raspberry Jelly 

Over a small box of raspberries sprinkle a cup and a 
half of powdered sugar, and allow to stand until sugar is 
melted. Crush through a colander — there should be a 
pint of juice, but if not, add enough water to make a 
pint of liquid. Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of gelatine 
in a cup of warm water, and stir into the fruit juice, put- 
ting into the refrigerator to harden, When serving, 
place cubes of the gelatine in a tall glass, with a layer of 
whipped cream between and on top of layers of the 
jelly. This is much improved by pouiing the juice of 
more raspberries over the whole. 

Gooseberry Amber 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan ; when 
melted add one and a half pounds of gooseberries, three 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of one 
lemon. Let stew slowly until soft, then rub through a 
sieve. Beat in the yolks of three eggs, and add half a 
teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Line a pudding dish 
with good pastry. Cut out some of the pastry into small 
fancy rounds, brush the edge of the pastry with a little 
water, arrange the rounds of pastry on it, overlapping 
each other. Put the gooseberry mixture into the dish 
and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Cover with 
a meringue and brown slowly. 

Orange Surprise 

Cut oranges in halves. Remove juice and pulp, leav- 
ing the skins in good condition. For a pint of juice, 
soften half a package of gelatine in one-half cupful of 



JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 261 

cold water, and dissolve it in one-half cupful of boiling 
water. Add one cupful of sugar and the juice of half a 
lemon. Add orange juice and strain. Mold the jelly in 
teacups wet with cold water. Fill to the height required 
to fill the orange skins. Decorate jelly with almonds, 
candied cherries, and cooked sultana raisins. When 
ready to serve, remove from cups to skins. Cover with 
meringue and brown delicately in a very hot oven. 



262 MORE IVAYS OF MAKIXG DESSERTS 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 263 



264 MORE, WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 




SALADS 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

HE salad has. almost the same relation to the 
last part of the dinner that the soup has to 
the first. In other words, the salad should 
not be so much a food as a condiment. While 
this is true of many salads, it is quite untrue 
of some others. The ideal dinner salad is 
lettuce, romaine, endive or water cress with 
or without tomato. The lobster, potato, and chicken 
salads are, however, concentrated foods. They are very 
properly served as the chief item at a stand-up function, 
or the principal supper or luncheon dish, but are not at 
all suited for bringing a substantial dinner to a close. I 
say advisedly " to a close," because too often the dessert 
merely adds a heavy, indigestible sweet to the menu, 
tempting the diner to eat when he has already had 
enough, and it would be well to stop the dinner with 
the salad, or content one's self with a little fruit or a 
few nuts. Lettuce and tomatoes are composed chiefly 
of water. The oil in the salad dressing is nutritious, of 
course, furnishing an abundant supply of heat and 
energy, but comparatively little of it is used, and even 
including this, a salad cannot be regarded as a very sub- 
stantial addendum to the meal. 

Vegetable salads should be well washed to remove 
any adhering dust or dirt, as well as to be certain that 
no harmful germs are retained upon them. It is true 

265 



266 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

that mere washing will not remove harmful germs, but 
they are not so often attached to the lettuce or to the 
tomato as they are to the dust and dirt which may adhere 
to them. A thorough w^ashing of these materials, there- 
fore, before the preparation of the salad is a sanitary 
measure of great importance. 

The use of the salad among American families should 
be encouraged. It is too infrequently found on our 
tables, especially among farmers, who grow abundant 
salad materials in the garden. The attractive recipes 
which follow will do much, I am sure, to earn for the 
salad the increased popularity that it deserves. 




Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. 
Recipe on Page 262. 




Cucumbers and Cress. 
A Spring Salad Crisp and Appetizing. 




Tomatoes and Endk'e Salad Garnished zdth Capers. 
Serre a French Dressing with this. 




Pond Lily Salad. 
Recipe on Page 2^4. 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 

Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad 

Cook one and one-half cupfuls of chicken stock or 
wa^er with one finely chopped onion, one chopped red 
pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful 
of Worcestershire. Cook three eggs until hard, and cool. 
Soak, in enough cold water to cover, two tablespoonfuls 
of gelatine. Add the hot stock to the gelatine, and when 
thoroughly dissolved pour into an oblong wetted mold 
to the depth of one-half an inch. Set on ice until stiff- 
ened. Then arrange slices of the hard cooked egg on 
the jelly. Finally add the remainder of the eggs cut in 
slices and two cupfuls of diced chicken meat to the hot 
stock, and pour all into the mold. Chill and serve in 
slices with salad dressing, either with or without lettuce. 



Stuffed Egg Salad 

Boil four eggs until hard, and after shelling, cut length- 
wise into halves ; remove the yolks and beat to a paste, 
adding a tablespoonful of chili sauce, two tablespoonfuls 
of minced chicken, and a teaspoonful of melted butter; 
when blended fill into the egg whites, and arrange on a 
bed of crisp heart lettuce leaves, pouring over a thick 
boiled dressing and garnishing with capers and slices of 
pickled beets. 

267 



268 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Roast Beef Salad 

A very rare piece of roast beef is excellent for the 
salad. Cut in very thin pieces, and marinate in a French 
dressing to which a slice of onion finely chopped has been 
added. Serve on a platter garnished v^ith potato salad, 
pickled beets, and lettuce. 

Note: Any cold left-over vegetables may be mari- 
nated, and used as a garnish. 

Dandelions with Bacon 

A German salad is made as follows : Chop some tender 
young dandelion leaves in a bowl and in the meantime 
place some strips of bacon to fry out in a pan. When 
this is crisp add a cupful of vinegar, salt and pepper to 
taste, and two beaten eggs. Heat this and pour it over 
the greens. Serve with boiled-egg rings and the strips of 
bacon. 



Spinach Salad 

Wash thoroughly and boil a half-peck of spinach. If 
it is young and tender cook in its own juices, heating it, 
in a saucepan, very gradually to prevent burning. Cook 
twenty-five minutes or until tender. Old spinach is bet- 
ter cooked in boiling, salted water. Allow two quarts of 
water to one peck of spinach. When tender drain the 
spinach and chop it with six hard cooked eggs. Add 
one cupful of toasted bread crumbs and one-half cupful 
of minced boiled ham, if liked. Pack in small cups or 
molds. Chill on ice and when ready to serve surround 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 269 

each mold on the serving plate with olives, and dress 
with mayonnaise. 



Red Pepper Salad 

Mix one-half can of pimientos or sweet peppers with 
one cream cheese. Beat into the mixture sufficient 
mayonnaise to soften it slightly and add a few drops of 
onion juice, more if a decided onion flavor is liked. 
Pack in a mold, chill on ice, and when ready to serve, 
cut in slices, and place on crisp lettuce leaves. This 
makes a good luncheon salad. 

Cucumber Jelly Salad 

Peel two cucumbers and cut in slices, add one slice of 
onion, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. 
Simmer until cucumbers are tender in one pint of water. 
Add one tablespoonful of gelatine, dissolved in warm 
water. Line a mold with slices of fresh cucumber cut 
very thin, and pour in the jelly slowly. Set in the ice 
box to chill. Turn out on a bed of lettuce heart leaves 
and serve with French dressing, which has been mixed 
with a piece of ice until it is nearly as thick as mayon- 
naise. 

Potato and Tomato Salad 

Cut four cold boiled potatoes into cubes ; and two 
tomatoes into eighths. Thoroughly mix the potatoes 
with three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful of 
vinegar, one tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar, salt, and 
pepper to taste, and one tablespoonful of finely cut chives. 



270 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

IMound in the center of a platter, surround with the 
sections of tomatoes, and a border of lettuce leaves. 



Okra Salad 

Cut the little buttons from the ends of the fresh okras, 
then wash them and put them in a pot and cover them 

well with boiling water. Let them boil vigorously for 
twenty minutes, then take them off the stove, strain them, 
and put them in the ice box. Serve with French dressing. 

Beet and Pepper Salad 

Thinly slice four small boiled beets. Remove the 
seeds from and parboil two green peppers five minutes, 
then cut in strips. When very cold, serve in nests of 
lettuce with a French dressing made as follows : Mix 
together four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, one 
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, 
one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and. if liked, one tea- 
spoonful of finely chopped onion or shallots. 

Tomato Jelly Salad 

Turn into saucepan the contents of a can of tomatoes, 
adding a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of brown sugar, a 
pinch each of allspice and ground nutmeg, half a chopped 
onion, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne 
pepper ; simmer slowdy, pouring in a little cold water if it 
becomes too thick, and strain through a puree sieve, stir- 
ring into each pint of liquid a tablespoonful of gelatine 
that has been dissolved in half a cupful of hot water; 
turn into small ring molds, and when cold and firm, 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 271 

mold in nests of crisp lettuce leaves, filling the center 
with a mayonnaise of celery ; garnish with tiny stuffed 
olives and small capers. 

Cabbage Salad 

Select a well-shaped, crisp head of cabbage. Remove 
the coarse outer leaves, take out the heart of the cab- 
bage, and cut the edges into points. Chop the removed 
cabbage finely, discarding all coarse stalks or ribs. Sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and equal measures of salted 
whipped cream and mayonnaise dressing, and mix to- 
gether thoroughly. Fill the open space in the cabbage 
with this mixture, and decorate with finely chopped beets. 
Garnish with parsley. Crisp the cabbage before cutting 
by letting it stand an hour, or more, head downward, in 
very cold water. 

Waldorf Salad 

Chop rather finely four tart apples (squeezing over a 
little lemon juice), add two cupfuls of chopped white 
celery, and one cupful of mixed nut meats ; toss the in- 
gredients lightly together, blending in a large cupful of 
mayonnaise dressing, and arrange in individual portions 
in nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with grated tgg yolks 
and tiny pink radishes. A cream dressing can also be 
used here. 

Cleveland Salad 

Four cupfuls of boiling water, three lemons, one pack- 
age of gelatine, four cucumbers, and one-quarter of a 
can of pimientos, salt to taste, and paprika as desired. 



2^2 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

]\Iake a hot unsweetened lemonade, add a pinch of sah 
and paprika. Dissolve the gelatine in a cupful of water. 
When it is dissolved, mix it with the lemonade. Slice 
the cucumbers very thin and add the peppers, put both in 
a large mold, and pour the lemon gelatine over all. Set 
in the refrigerator over night. Serve with mayonnaise 
on a bed of lettuce. 



Pineapple Salad 

Cut into strips three slices of Hawaiian pineapple and 
one canned red pepper. Place on ice until time of serv- 
ing, then place on heart leaves of lettuce, and partially 
cover with cream mayonnaise, made as follows : Beat 
until stiff one-half cup heavy cream, and add three table- 
spoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing, and season with salt 
and paprika. If the mayonnaise has separated from 
standing, it will become smooth when added to the 
cream. 



Hawaiian Salad 

Choose any brand of Hawaiian pineapple and drain 
the slices carefully. Place one slice on each serving plate, 
which already holds the blanched leaves from lettuce 
hearts. In the center of the pineapple place a small ball 
of Roquefort cheese which has been softened until it can 
be molded with a little cream or milk. Add a few 
broken nuts, or omit these, if preferred. And, of course, 
a mild-tlavored cheese may be used, but the Roquefort 
cheese is peculiarly happy. Dress with a French dress- 
ing, to which are added two tablespoonfuls of stiffly beaten 
cream. 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 273 

Grape Salad 

From one cu]) of Malaga or any other large grapes, 
remove the seeds, and fill the cavity with finely chopped 
or ground nuts — walnuts preferred. Chop one large 
stalk of celery very fine and keep on the ice or in some 
cool place until ready to serve. A little while before 
serving,, mix the grapes and celery together with a 
mayonnaise or cooked dressing to which two tablespoon- 
fuls of cream have been added. Serve on chicory that 
has been kept on ice until it is firm and crisp. If chicory 
cannot be had, shred curly cabbage or lettuce. Either the 
feathery chicory, shredded lettuce, or curly cabbage gives 
the appearance of grass under the tent. The tents are 
made of cheese-sticks in the following manner : 

One and one-half cupfuls of flour, a little salt, one- 
half teaspoonful of baking powder, one-quarter of a cup- 
ful of shortening ; mix with ice-cold water ; roll out very 
thin and spread with grated cheese; fold and roll again; 
cut into oblong pieces about four by six inches ; then 
with the back of a silver knife mark dough into strips 
half an inch wide, but do not cut clear through; sprinkle 
again with grated cheese, and bake in a hot oven ; when 
done, cut through the center crosswise and bend in the 
shape of a '' V " tent ; on top stick the miniature Valley 
Forge flag ; place the tent over the salad as in the picture. 
The tent may be eaten with the salad. 



Cherry Salad 

Ripe red cherries, one head of lettuce, quarter of a 
pound of filberts, and mayonnaise dressing. Blanch the 
filberts by soaking in boiling water and rubbing ofif the 
skins. Remove the stones from the cherries and re- 



274 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

place them with the filberts. Arrange lettuce leaves in 
nests, place cherries in the center, and serve with mayon- 
naise dressing. 



" Red and White Currant and Raspberry Salad 

Take one pound of white currants and one pound of 
red currants, pick off their stalks. Place the red cur- 
rants in the center of the dish on which the salad is to 
be served ; then arrange around them alternately the 

white currants and raspberries. Whip up some cream, 
sweeten it and send to the table separately. 

Pond Lily Salad 

Remove the shells from four eggs cooked hard and 
around the center of each ^gg, with a small, sharp knife, 
cut deep a zigzag line. Separate the Qgg, following the 
line marked, which will give the tops an uneven surface. 
with scalloped or pointed edges. Wash the lettuce and 
throw into cold water. AMien crisp, remove, and shake 
out all the water. Arrange the egg, with its white edge 
and yellow center, on a lettuce leaf, like a pond lily with 
its pod. Garnish with small ornamentations of beet, cut 
in the shape of mushrooms. Serve at once with French 
dressing. 

Crab Meat Salad 

Use twice as much crab meat as celery. Cut vege- 
table stalks into fine pieces and stir them into the may- 
onnaise. Break the meat into pieces of uniform size, 
heap it upon a bed of lettuce leaves, and pour the dress- 
ing over the mount. Serve cold. 




Hawaiian Salad. 
Recipe given on Page 2/2. 




Grape Salad in Tent. 
Recipe given on Page ^75. 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 275 

Sardine Salad 

Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces and finely 
chop enough parsley to make one-half of a teaspoonful. 
Remove the skin and bones from a small box of sar- 
dines, then break the fish into small pieces. Lightly toss 
the celery, parsley, and fish together, and let them get 
very cold before serving. Serve cold. 

Oyster Salad 

Small oysters are best to use for salad, as cutting the 
large ones is apt to make the dish look unattractive. 
Scald the bivalves in their own liquor until the edges 
curl slightly. Drain them, wash to remove all pieces of 
shell, and set them on the ice to chill until serving time. 
To every quart of oysters allow two large stalks of 
celery cut into quarter-inch pieces. When time to serve 
toss the fish and vegetables lightly together in the salad 
bowl and pour over them a dressing made according to 
this recipe : Beat the yolks of three eggs until they are 
lemon colored, then add one level teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful each of pepper and prepared mustard, 
the grated yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and, lastly, two 
tablespoonfuls of olive oil poured in very slowly while 
the mixture is being beaten. Beat well until smooth, 
then, while stirring briskly, thin with three tablespoon- 
fuls of lemon juice. Mild vinegar can be substituted for 
the lemon juice if desired. A suggestion of horseradish 
and tabasco sauce is used with this combination. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Beat the yolk of one ^gg in a cold dish with a silver 
or wooden fork. Add one cupful of oil, drop by drop, 



2y6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

beating thoroughly. When it begins to thicken it may 
be thinned with lemon juice or vinegar, using two tea- 
spoonfuls in all. When all the oil and vinegar is mixed, 
the seasonings may be quickly and thoroughly beaten in. 
Use one-half teaspoonful each of salt and mustard, and 
a dash of red pepper. It is usually the salt which causes 
the mayonnaise to separate. This same mayonnaise may 
be mixed very quickly with a Dover egg-beater, but none 
of the quickly-made dressings will last without separat- 
ing, as will those made by the slower drop by drop 
method. 



Chiffonade Dressing 

This is extremely good to serve on lettuce, romaine, 
or any green salad. Into a glass jar put one hard- 
boiled ^gg, finely chopped, one teaspoonful of finely cut 
chives, one tablespoonful each of chopped red and green 
pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful 
of paprika, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, one- 
half cupful of olive oil, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
and one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. Allow it to 
become very cold, and just before serving shake the 
contents of the jar thoroughly. 

Chili Dressing 

Mix together six tablespoonfuls olive oil, two table- 
spoonfuls vinegar, one teaspoonful Tarragon vinegar, one 
teaspoonful finely chopped onion, one-half teaspoonful 
salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, one-fourth teaspoon- 
ful paprika, and two tablespoonfuls chili sauce. Let 
stand several hours, shake well, and serve on the salad. 



A CHAPTER OF SALADS 277 

Roquefort Cheese Dressing 

Mix together half a teaspoonful of sah, a quarter of 
teaspoonful of white pepper, six tablespoonfuls of oHve 
oil, and when well mixed add two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar or lemon juice. Beat all together until an 
emulsion is formed. Add to this an eighth of a pound 
of Roquefort cheese, crushed fine, and a little chopped 
pimiento. Serve on lettuce, chicory, or endive. 

Roquefort Sandwiches 

Cream one-half cupful of butter, and add one-fourth 
pound of ripe Roquefort cheese; mix until smooth; 
season with one-half teaspoonful of paprika, one-half 
clove of garlic (finely chopped), and sah to taste. 
Moisten with a little cream to make of right consistency 
to spread. Put between very thin slices of brown bread, 
or entire wheat bread. Cut into small shapes, and serve 
with the salad. 



278 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SALADS 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING SALADS 279 



2So MORE WAYS OF MAKIXG SALADS 



POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES 



By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 




HE function of the potato and other vege- 
tables is two-fold. The potato is hardly a 
succulent vegetable, but green corn, green 
peas, green beans, radishes, tomatoes, and 
similar articles of diet are composed chiefly 
of water. The potato itself has about seventy- 
five per cent, of water, while a radish has 
close to ninety-five per cent. In other words, a succulent 
vegetable like the radish is not much more than solidified 
water. It seems strange that a body containing ninety- 
five per cent, of water can be as firm and hard as a 
radish. It shows that the distribution of the materials 
forming the cells in which the water is contained is most 
advantageously made. The potato is, of course, a 
nourishing vegetable. It is composed largely of starch, 
although it has some protein and mineral matters of 
value, but it is essentially a starchy food. Its chief value 
as a food product lies in this fact. It is, therefore, a 
vegetable which is admirably adapted to supplementing a 
meat, fish, or poultry diet. The desire to eat potatoes 
with meat is not solely a function of taste. It is also a 
function of nutrition. I have said that meats, including 
poultry and fish, are not a balanced diet. They become 
so, however, when eaten with potatoes. 

The sanitary properties of the potato are well known. 

281 



28;^ THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Plenty of potatoes will prevent scurvy in long voyages. 
In this the potato is not superior to other vegetables, but 
it can be better preserved and carried longer distances 
than most others. Peas and beans in the green state 
are more succulent than the potatoes and they also have 
quite a different chemical composition, the nitrogenous 
elements being dominant. A diet composed largely of 
these vegetables is. therefore,, one which approaches the 
character of a meat diet. Xevertheless, it should not 
be forgotten that although peas and beans contain large 
quantities of nitrogen they are still very well balanced, 
as in a green state they carried both starch and sugar 
and digestible cellulose. 

The succulent vegetables have a distinct function in 
nutrition because of their salutary influence upon the 
digestive functions. With raw fruits, succulent vege- 
tables exert a most favorable influence on peristalsis 
and secure regular and proper movements of the bowqjs. 
Thus they not only minister to the taste and aft'ord valu- 
able nutrients, but they also have what may be called a 
regulating or medicinal effect upon digestion. The po- 
tato being largely starch should be avoided in cases of 
a tendency to obesity. By the a\erage person, or es- 
pecially by thin people, they are. on the contrary, to be 
eaten with freedom and benefit. Fortunately, the ad- 
vance in methods of preservation has rendered it pos- 
sible to have succulent vegetables at all seasons of the 
year. The process of sterilizing fresh vegetables, com- 
monly known as canning, extends the season from spring 
to winter. The people of the country are justly having 
more and more confidence in canned goods, so-called, 
because of the eft'orts of the canners themselves through 
their powerful organization to improve the quality of 
the materials used and the processes of preservation. 



POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES 283 

The use of artificial coloring matters and preservatives 
in goods of this kind has practically ceased, and the 
prejudice which has so long existed against them may 
well be laid aside. In the diet of man a generous por- 
tion of succulent vegetables finds a fitting place. 



JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 




HE best way to cook potatoes is to bake them 
in their jackets in an oven of 450 degrees 
to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. This seems hke 
a high temperature, but the potato inside 
does not get hotter than 212 degrees, and 
cooks by steam thoroughly. When the potato 
is taken out of the oven it must be pricked 
or broken at once, to permit the escape of the steam 
which has been generated in the cooking process, and 
which if not given egress, will condense into water and 
make the potato soggy and quite indigestible. If it is 
pricked with a fork it is best to warm the prongs for a 
few seconds before using in the first potato, to prevent, 
as much as possible, any condensation resulting from the 
hot steam coming into contact with the cold metal of 
the fork. It is easy to see that in this process there is 
no chance for loss and that if the potato is scraped out 
well from the skin (where lie many of the potash sahs), 
pretty full potato value is secured. Never cut open a 
baked potato ; always break it or it will be not mealy, but 
soggy, and barely fit to eat. 

The next best method — in point of economy — is to cook 
by steaming. Although the baking is a partial steaming 
process the actual steaming in the jackets not only 
renders the potato deliciously palatable, but the subsequent 
removal of the skins, before eating, if done carefully, 
does not carry away much of the valuable mineral salts. 
Steaming takes a little longer, but it is a good method 

285 



286 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

of cooking, ensuring little waste not only with potatoes, 
but with all vegetables. 

The process of boiling brings with it the question 
of boiling in the jackets, boiling without the jackets, 
the use of salt in the water, and the tempera- 
ture at which to start the potatoes. The most ap- 
proved method is that of boiling the potato in the 
jacket and of beginning the process with hot water. 
This takes less time, and preserves the flavor. Potatoes 
boiled without their jackets lose, of course, a great part 
of their mineral salts and tissue-making material, and 
they lose also much of the flavor which is imparted to 
them from the layer cut off in paring. If salt be added 
after fifteen minutes, when the potatoes are about half 
cooked, this may save some of the mineral matter and 
add a little to the flavor of the potatoes. 

Because potatoes are so lacking in fat, proteid, and 
mineral matter, it has become an invariable rule, con- 
sciously or unconsciously, to eat them with meats, and 
to prepare them so as to introduce the food constituents 
they lack. Thus creamed potatoes and potato au gratin 
introduce fat and proteid, and make pretty well-propor- 
tioned dishes, though, of course, on account of the super- 
abundance of starch, such dishes are not adapted to 
steady diet. Undoubtedly, like any other article of food 
the potato must be prepared attractively. It must not 
only look well, but must have a pleasant aroma. 



Boiled Potatoes 

Scrub the potatoes, scrape them if desired, and put in 
hot water. Boil until tender. If the potatoes are old 
and have become dry by evaporation it is sometimes 




Potatoes, French Fried. 
Recipe given on Page 28'j. 




Stuffed Eggplant. 
Recipe given on Page S35- 




Apples and Sweet Potatoes. 
Recipe given on Page 2p^. 




A Christmas Garnish for the Mashed Potatoes. 
Holly Leaves are cut from Green and the Berries from 

Red Peppers. 



JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 287 

wise to soak them for a little while in cold water, or to 
start them over the fire in cold water. Drain until dry, 
dust with salt, and cover with a thick cloth until ready 
to serve; then serve with garnish of parsley. 



Baked Potatoes 

Scrub with a vegetable brush, put into hot oven (500 
degrees Fahrenheit), and let cook until thoroughly soft, 
(forty-five minutes, or longer if the potatoes are large). 
Turn the potatoes occasionally to insure their baking 
evenly. Upon removal from the oven, break the skins 
at once or thoroughly prick with a warm fork prong to 
permit the escape of steam. Then wrap loosely in a 
napkin and slip potatoes and napkin into a dish, and serve. 



Potato, French Fried 

Scrape three or four potatoes, wash them thoroughly, 
and then cut into strips; wash them after they are cut, 
and dry thoroughly in a cloth. Have ready a pan of 
very hot clarified fat ; put the potatoes into a f rying- 
basket, plunge into the fat, and fry the potatoes until 
they are brown and crisp. When done, drain, sprinkle 
with salt, and serve on a folded napkin. This is sufficient 
for five persons. 

Savory Potatoes 

Six or eight potatoes, two small onions, one table- 
spoonful of finely chopped parsley, one heaping teaspoon- 
ful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth tea- 



288 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

spoonful of white pepper, half a cupful of milk, half-cup- 
ful of water, three heaping tablespoonfuls grated cheese. 
Put the butter in bottom of saucepan. Pare the potatoes 
thinly, chop onions and parsley, mix salt and pepper to- 
gether on a saucer. Cut the potatoes into slices and put 
a layer in the saucepan. Sprinkle in a little seasoning, 
then onion and parsley. Begin again with the potatoes 
and alternate. When all are used pour in the water. 
Cover closely and cook gently for twenty minutes. Xow 
pour in the milk and allow it to cook for another fifteen 
minutes. Lift the potatoes carefully on a flat dish, and 
strew the grated cheese over them and brown in the 
oven. This dish mav be cooked in a casserole. 



Stuffed Potatoes 

Bake the potatoes, and when they are done, take out 
of the oven, cut them in halves, and scoop the potatoes 
out of their jackets. Mash them until they are smooth 
with milk, butter, paprika, and salt. Put them back 
again into their jackets, and put them in the oven for a 
few minutes to heat and brown on the top. 

Anna Potatoes 

Cut about eight cold cooked potatoes into thin round 
slices, place them in a dish, sprinkle, over them two table- 
spoonfuls of grated Parmesan or American cheese and 
two tablespoonfuls of fresh bread crumbs ; spread well 
over them a piece of butter about the size of a nut, then 
place the dish in the oven. After ten minutes, when a 
golden brown, serve. This can be made in as many 
layers as desired. Paprika, if desired, adds flavor to this. 



JUST HOW ro COOK POTATOES 289 

Nut-Filled Potatoes 

Bake until soft and mealy six good-sized potatoes, 
prick to let off steam, and then cut directly in halves 
where they were pricked, and with a sharp spoon remove 
the pulp from the skins, turning into a warmed mixing- 
bowl ; mash thoroughly, adding a small cupful of rich 
milk or cream, salt and paprika to taste, one tablespoon- 
ful of minced parsley, one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
a pinch of poultry seasoning, and a small cupful of nut 
meats that have been passed through the meat chopper ; 
beat with a fork until very light and creamy and return to 
shells, which, after dusting, with browned bread crumbs, 
are placed in a hot oven for ten minutes to crisp and 
brown; serve garnished with small bunches of parsley. 

Stuffed Potatoes with Cheese 

Bake until soft five or six medium-sized potatoes, and 
with a sharp knife cut directly in halves, carefully re- 
moving the cooked potatoes into a mixing bowl ; now 
mash with a potato masher, and, when free from lumps, 
add a teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of minced 
parsley, half a cupful of rich milk, one small cupful of 
grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste ; beat with a 
fork until light and creamy and heap into the potato 
skins, dusting the tops with grated cheese, and return 
to the oven until crisp and brown on top. Serve very 
hot. 

Chantilly Potatoes 

Prepare some nicely seasoned, light, mashed potatoes, 
and mound on a platter. Beat one-half cupful of cream 



290 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

until stiff, add one-half cupful of soft cheese, grated and 
seasoned with salt and paprika. Pile lightly onto the 
potato and set on the top grate of the oven until the sur- 
face is nicely browned. Be sure that the oven is very 
hot. 

Molded Potatoes 

Press left-over mashed potatoes into baking-powder 
cans and chill. Slice in neat rounds, lay on a buttered 
dripping-pan in the oven, and bake till they become puffy 
and a delicate brown. Serve with broiled steak as a 
garnish. 

Potato Puff 

Add to two cupfuls of hot mashed potatoes, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, two well-beaten eggs, one-half cup- 
ful of milk, salt and pepper to taste. Put in a deep 
buttered baking-dish, and bake about twenty minutes in 
hot oven. 

Potatoes Rissolees 

New potatoes, or old ones which are cut down to the 
size of new ones, may be treated as follows : Fry in deep 
fat until a golden brown, sprinkle with salt, and place 
in a pan ; set in the oven until the potatoes are soft 
throughout. They may be served with or without a 
cream sauce. 

Potato Puffs 

Season two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes with salt, 
pepper, celery salt, and chopped parsley. Add the beaten 



JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 291 

yolk of one Qgg and sufficient flour to make it of the con- 
sistency to roll on a well-floured board. It should be 
one-half inch thick. Cut in circles four inches in diam- 
eter; place one tablespoonful or more of well-seasoned, 
chopped cold meat, moistened slightly with gravy or 
stock, upon one-half of each, moisten edges with cold 
water, fold, press together, and fry in deep fat. Serve 
hot. 

Mint Potatoes 

Wash small potatoes and rub off the skins with a 
coarse towel, or pare and scrape them. Put into boiling 
water with sprigs of mint sufficient to flavor them well; 
and cook until done, drain, and serve with drawn butter. 

Mashed White Potatoes and Turnips 

Prepare as mashed potatoes, adding an equal quantity 
of boiled and mashed turnips. Add three tablespoonfuls 
of butter to each pint of potato and turnip, with salt 
and pepper to taste. 

Fried Potatoes with Spanish Sauce 

Chop fine some cold boiled potatoes. Season and 
saute in hot fat until golden brown. Fold over like an 
omelet, slip on a platter, and pour over the potatoes the 
following sauce : Boil together for ten minutes, one-half 
can of tomatoes, one-half can of shredded pimientoes, 
and one-half can of button mushrooms. Season with 
salt, butter, and paprika or pepper. Thicken with two 
tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a cream with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Add to the sauce, cook until 



292 THE PURE FOOD COOK fiOOK 

smoothly thickened, stirring all the time. If liked, a 
little chopped onion may be used as an additional sea- 
soning. 

Potato Chowder 

Cut a slice of pork into small dice, fry to a light brown 
in a soup kettle. Then add three medium-sized potatoes 
and one onion, put through the meat chopper, or slice in 
small bits. Add pepper and salt and dredge over a little 
flour, cover with water and simmer until the vegetables 
are tender. Then add a pint and a half of hot milk. Let 
it all come to a boil, add a small piece of butter, and 
serve with toasted crackers. A tomato cut in small dice, 
or a little left-over stewed tomatoes, may be added. 

Scalloped Sweet Potatoes 

Boil the potatoes without peeling until half done. 
Scrape ofif the skins while they are hot and leave them 
to get cold. Then cut into slices almost half an inch 
thick, and arrange in a buttered baking-dish, scattering 
bits of butter and a little sugar (a teaspoonful to the 
layer) between them. When the dish is filled in this 
order, pour in a cupful of boiling water in which a table- 
spoonful of butter has been melted. Cover with bread 
crumbs — dry and fine — dot these with butter, and sprin- 
kle with salt and pepper. Cook, closely covered, for 
half an hour until brown. This is a Southern recipe and 
the product is delicious. 

A Dixie Potato Pie 

To half a pint of fresh milk, add one cupful of sweet 
potatoes, well mashed, with one tablespoonful of butter, 



JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 293 

and one-eighth cupful of cream, or milk. Beat until this 
is light and creamy. Into this mixture beat very lightly 
the yolks of four eggs ; add nutmeg and sugar to taste 
and the grated rind of one lemon or one small orange. 
A white meringue may be added to the top if desired. 

Browned Sweet Potatoes 

Select potatoes of uniform size, and pare; place in a 
frying-pan, and add water to a depth of about one-half 
inch. Add one tablespoonful of butter or other shorten- 
ing, and one tablespoonful of brown or white sugar. 
Cover and let boil furiously. The water will soon dis- 
appear as steam, and the potatoes will brown in the 
syrup that remains, which forms a delicious crust, keep- 
ing in the steam and flavor. 

Apples and Sweet Potatoes 

Peeled, sliced apples, and sweet potatoes (the potatoes 
are previously boiled, peeled, and sliced), arranged in 
alternate rows, are very good served with roast loin of 
pork or chops. Butter a shallow casserole, and lay 
enough butter over the potatoes and apples to moisten 
the whole. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. 
Add sugar if the apples are very tart. 

Sweet Potato Waffles 

To one cupful of mashed sweet potatoes add one cup- 
ful of flour, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one cupful of 
milk, one-half cupful of melted butter, and two eggs, the 
whites and yolks beaten separately. Cook on a waffle- 
iron. 



294 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES 295 



296 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES 



JUST HOW TO MAKE JELLIES AND 
PRESERVES 




OUSEKEEPERS have always found diffi- 
culty in making certain fruit juices " jell "^ 
some, such as those of the ordinary summer 
strawberry, raspberry, and other oversweet 
or overripe fruits, because they lack sufficient 
acid, and others, such as the juices from 
rhubarb, pineapple, and orange, which have 
sufficient acid, because they have not enough pectin, the 
jelly-making property of fruits. Recently, however, it 
was discovered at the University of Illinois, through ex- 
periments following those of Alice Dyar Russell with 
sweet fruits, that the lack of acid can be offset with 
tartaric acid. With this addition, perfect jelly can be 
made from even ripe blueberries ; and Miss Goldthwaite, 
also of the University of Illinois, discovered further that 
by using the inner white rind of the orange, together 
with a certain proportion of its juice, rhubarb, the de- 
spair of generations of jelly-makers, can be supplied 
with pectin, and made to ''jell." 

Valuable as is this latter discovery, it still cannot 
greatly help the women of those regions where the 
orange, either from lack of regular supply or because of 
its expense, is not yet a " stand-by." It is particularly 
to these women that the latest discovery concerning the 
citron-melon will mean much ; for it has been found that 
the enormous proportion of pectin which it contains may 

297 



298 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

be practically applied in ''jelling" a number of fruits 
that contain little pectin of their own. 

Unfortunately, the citron-melon is but little cultivated 
to-day. Although it can be found in many parts of the 
country, it usually appears only as a " volunteer," the re- 
sult of plantings of many years ago. Yet before the in^ 
troduction of the now familiar commercial or real citron 
— a candied citrus product — the citron-melon was so 
universally employed for the same purposes, for which 
the commercial citron is now used, that some recipes and 
writers still mention the common market melon of to-day 
as '' citron " or *' the citron." Such confused usage 
might be accepted as a quaint and harmless reminder of 
the past, were it not for this recent discovery which 
makes the old-time garden product of new interest and 
value to every woman who makes jelly. For the citron- 
melon still possesses those qualities that once made it 
esteemed — qualities capable of solving what have usually 
been the home jelly-maker's greatest problem. Further- 
more, these melons can be so easily and inexpensively 
grown that there is no reason why, once she knows of 
them, every woman should not be able to avail herself 
of their advantages. 

Although this pectin attribute which it contains has 
not been unknown to scientists at large, it was made to 
serve no practical purpose in the home until Mr. and 
Mrs. Theodore Mead, of Lake Charm, Oviedo, Florida, 
began experiments with guava jelly. 

Because of its peculiar character, the ordinary guava 
usually, upon first acquaintance, proves a stumbling- 
block in jelly-making, even to skilled and careful house- 
wives; and when Mr. and Mrs. Mead first came to 
Florida, though Mrs. Mead brought an unusual amount 
of brain-power to bear upon the guava, even she was 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 299 

balked by its refusal to " jell." Mr. Mead— a graduate 
of both the regular and agricultural courses at Cornell, 
by instinct and training a chemist, and also specially in- 
terested, as a practical pomologist, in all Florida fruits — 
suggested adding to the guava some pulp from citron- 
melons, which were then plentiful in their grove. Mrs. 
Mead did this, and immediately the stubborn juice 
'' jelled." But as her experience grew and she learned 
to overcome the obstinacy of the guava, she preferred to 
use only its pulp and juice, and she did not carry out 
further experiments with the citron-melon. Experi- 
ments with it in connection with the guava and a num- 
ber of other fruits have been carried on by the writer, 
however, and have continued to prove its practicability 
and value as " first aid " to jelly-makers. 



Rhubarb Jelly- 
Rhubarb is almost unknown in Florida, where the ex- 
periments were made, yet two or three trials with it 
proved satisfactory — equal amounts of citron-melon and 
rhubarb were cut into small cubes, and for each two 
quarts one half-pint of water was added at first and later 
a scant pint. Very little additional water is ever needed 
with citron-melon. The mixture was cooked very slowly, 
with frequent stirring and mashing, until it formed a 
soft pulp, resembling thick rhubarb sauce. It was then 
drained for twenty-four hours, measured, boiled for fif- 
teen minutes — being skimmed meantime. Then an equal 
measure of sugar was added. Fifteen minutes was al- 
lowed for boiling^skimming again — and then, having 
" jelled," it was poured into glasses. With the next ex- 
periment, one quart each of rhubarb, melon, and water 



300 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

were used, cooked — not so thick as in the first experi- 
ment — in a fireless cooker and drained but twelve hours. 
The resulting juice was thinner, and required longer to 
"jell." 

Orange Jelly 

Three trials, also, were made with orange jelly com- 
bined with the citron-melon, using, in small cubes, equal 
measures of citron-melon pulp, and the inner, soft pulp, 
and juice, of the orange. Neither white nor yellow rind 
was added, and no water. This combination w^as brought 
to a boil in the morning, then placed in a fireless cooker 
till evening, when it was placed to drain till the next 
morning. The strained juice was boiled till reduced one- 
half — being skimmed meantime — then an equal measure 
of sugar added. The jelly formed within from fifteen 
to twenty minutes thereafter. The three trials showed 
practically no variation. It should perhaps be added that 
orange jelly had previously been made with the juice 
and rind of oranges, but the result was darker and less 
pleasing in flavor. 



Pineapple Jelly 

In experimenting with pineapple jelly, a firm pineapple 
was used, which, although ripe, was not yet entirely yellow. 
A small quantity was made at a time. One quart each of 
diced pineapple and citron-melon' and one pint of water 
was brought to a boil and mashed thoroughly, then 
cooked to a soft pulp in a fireless cooker. This mixture 
was then strained overnight, and resulted in one pint and 
a half of juice. This was boiled ten minutes, when an 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 301 

equal measure of sugar was added. It " jelled " about 
fifteen minutes later. With a very sweet, too ripe pine- 
apple, a tablespoonful of lemon juice added for each pint 
of strained pineapple and citron-melon juice would prob- 
ably aid the flavor and shorten the process. 

With both the rhubarb and orange jellies the tests 
were made without the addition of any other fruit juice 
or -rind, but ordinarily the flavor might be better liked if 
some grated yellow rind of orange or lemon were used. 
In the orange-citron-melon jelly, while the flavor is ex- 
cellent, it is not pronouncedly orange, and as for the 
rhubarb, many people who do not care for that flavor 
alone would probably like the jelly with orange or lemon 
added. 

Citron-melon may be preserved or pickled separately, 
like watermelon, and dried or candied for use in cakes, 
mincemeat, or to serve as a confection. It may also be 
baked, or used as a sauce, as are apples ; in either of 
these forms it makes an acceptable pie-filling — indeed, 
from this fact came its old name of " pie-melon." 

Here are a few recipes for preparing citron-melon 
alone : 

Dried Citron for Cakes, Mincemeat, and Confections 

To dry in large pieces, quarter the melon, peel off 
outer rind, and remove seeds. For one medium-sized 
melon, dissolve three lumps of alum, each the size of a 
large pea, in two quarts of soft water, and place them 
in the vessel with the melon, which should be covered 
by the water. Let all come to a boil and cook till the 
melon can be pierced with a straw. Drain, place in an- 
other vessel with an equal measure of sugar (no water), 
and boil for thirty minutes. Drain out on a buttered 



302 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

sieve or plate, and let dry in a cool oven or heater. In 
about five weeks it should be ready for use. 

To crystallize citron-melon in smaller pieces, as a con- 
fection, remove the seeds and the softer pulp near them. 
Wash, drain, and drop into boiling, slightly salted water. 
Cook till barely tender — it must not get too soft. Drain 
thoroughly, and place in a syrup made with an equal 
measure of sugar and water, cooked till moderately 
thick; then when the melon is added, cook till the syrup 
is '' ropy," and drain the pieces out onto a buttered sieve 
or plate, and set them away to dry. Grated lemon or 
orange-peel or any preferred spice may be added while 
the melon cooks. 

Baked Citron-Melon or Sau'^e 

Pare off outer rind and cut into pieces about two by 
three inches. Remove seeds, wash, and drain. Slice 
thin one lemon, or add its juice and rind, for each pint 
of melon used; add a saltspoonful of salt and about a 
half-pint of sugar — the exact amount depending on in- 
dividual taste. Water is usually not necessary if the 
sauce is cooked carefully in a double-boiler, although 
in a fireless cooker or an earthen baking-dish enough 
water may be added to cover the bottom of the vessel. 
Cook till the mixture is clear, but not too long or the 
pieces will lose their shape. For sauce, however, the 
melon may be cooked longer, and mashed or sieved or 
put through a colander, being then put back on the stove 
to cook down somewhat, if it is too thin. 

Preserved Citron-Melon 

Peel and cut into pieces of shape and size preferred. 
For each pint of melon allow one-fourth pint of water, 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 303 

with a saltspoonful of salt. If a rich preserve is wished, 
allow one pound of sugar and two sliced lemons for each 
pound of citron. For a more simple preserve, allow 
seven pounds of sugar to ten of melon and six (or more) 
lemons. Cook slowly till clear, and seal when the mix- 
ture is hot. (Citron is sometimes soaked overnight in 
rather strong salt water, then drained and soaked in 
clear water for two hours before draining and presev- 
ing.) 

Citron-Melon Chips 

Peel and slice the melon thin, then cut it into strips 
or half-inch squares and remove the seeds. Weigh, and 
allow an equal weight of sugar. Mix, and let stand 
overnight in a bowl, together with three thin-sliced 
lemons for each quart of chips. In the morning put the 
melon and the syrup which has formed into a preserving- 
kettle. Simmer — skimming meantime — till the syrup is 
like honey, then seal hot. Ginger-root may be added as 
well as lemon, if this is liked. 



Crab Apple Jelly 

Remove stems and wash fruit. Cut out all imperfect 
parts and the blossom end ; divide into quarters, but do 
not pare. Put into the kettle with half as much water, 
by measure, as fruit. Turn into bag and drain, without 
squeezing. Allow equal measures of juice and sugar. 
If liked less sweet use only three-fourths sugar. Heat 
the juice, boiling twenty minutes, then add hot sugar and 
cook until it jellies on a cold plate. 



304 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Rhubarb Jelly 

Allow one part by measure of tart apples to two parts 
of rhubarb and just enough water to start cooking. 
When tender, drain, and proceed as in other jelly. This 
is clear, tart, and especially good for jelly rolls. 



Quince Jelly 

A mixture of from one-third to one-half apples im- 
proves quince. Rub the quinces with a coarse cloth. 
For every two quarts of fruit add one of water. Sim- 
mer until tender, drain without squeezing, and make into 
jelly in the usual way. Take the parings and cores and 
simmer in half as much water until tender. Strain and 
add to the pulp left in the bag. Add three- fourths of a 
pound of sugar to every pound of pulp, and cook slowly 
for marmalade. Long cooking will give a beautiful pink 
color. 

Barberry Jelly 

Use one quart of barberries and one cup of thorn apple 
cooked in water enough to cover. Strain, and use a little 
more than a cupful of sugar to a pint of the juice. 



Pink Grape Jelly 

Put the pulp of any kind of ripe grapes into the kettle, 
using as little water as possible to start cooking. When 
the pulp falls to pieces, drain without squeezing. Add 
lemon juice varying from one to four tablespoonfuls for 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 305 

three or four glasses of jelly, according to the ripeness 
of the grapes. Use equal parts of sugar and the juice and, 
just before it jellies, a tiny speck of vegetable pink color- 
ing matter. 

Purple Grape Jelly 

Make exactly like pink jelly, omitting the artificial 
coloring matter, but add skins. Do not squeeze the 
jelly bag 

Green Grape Mint Jelly 

Wash the desired amount of unripe green grapes, put 
them in a preserving kettle, and heat until they can be 
easily crushed. Add to each pound of grapes one bunch 
of fresh, well-washed mint bruised in a bowl, and cook 
until the grapes are soft enough to drain. Turn this 
into a jelly bag and let it drip, and then measure the 
amount. Boil the juice and add for each pint one scant 
pound of hot sugar and boil for twelve minutes, or until 
a little of it jellies on a cold plate. Color mint green 
with vegetable coloring liquid and fill glasses. 



Pears with Ginger 

Soak three-fourths of a pound of green ginger root 
in cold water for two days. Drain and then add to one 
pint of this water, five pounds of sugar, eight pounds of 
firm, hard unpeeled pears, without cores, and cut into 
pieces, the ginger root scraped and cut in thin slices and 
the yellow peel and juice of four lemons. Cook this for 



3o6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

two hours, or until the fruit is transparent and the 
syrup thick. 

Barberry Sauce 

To one quart of barberries add a pint of water and 
cook one hour; then add three-fourths of a quart of 
sugar, and boil fifteen minutes longer. 



Barberry Preserve 

Barberries may be preserved in white vinegar and 
used as a garnish for meats. 



Pineapple Preserved Without Cooking 

Peel and cut a pineapple in small cubes and add to each 
pound one and a fourth pounds of granulated sugar. 
Turn this into a stone crock, stir it every day for three 
days, then pack it into cold, steriHzed glass jars, and seal. 
Serve with ice cream or with rolls at breakfast. 



Grape Conserve 

A basket of grapes, one and one-half pints of sugar, 
one and one-half pounds of seeded raisins, half a pound 
of walnut meats. Remove pulp from grapes, boil five 
minutes. Put through a colander to remove seeds and 
boil. Add raisins, sugar, and nut meats chopped fine 
and boil about thirty minutes until thick. This is de- 
licious either with meats or plain blancmange. 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 307 

Plum Conserve 

Stone and chop finely ripe damson plums. To each 
quart (after they are chopped) add two cupfuls of 
chopped and seeded raisins, six sour oranges chopped 
tine with some of the yellow peel grated, and five cupfuls 
of sugar. Cook slowly until it is thick and transparent, 
and turn it into glass jars. 

Green Gage Jam 

Wash, but do not peel, six pounds of plums, remove 
the stones and to each pound of fruit add three-fourths 
of a pound of sugar. Dissolve the sugar over the fire 
in a very little water, a third of a cupful to each pound, 
boil and skim. Add the fruit and cook it quickly until 
it jellies. This is the English method of making jam. 

Grape Marmalade 

Pulp the grapes and cook the pulps until tender. Press 
through a sieve and add to the skins, allowing three- 
fourths of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Cook 
slowly, but do not make it stiff. 

Plum Butter 

Take the large red plums that grow wild in some sec- 
tions of our country and are known as '' wild goose " 
plums. They are delicious when raw, but are bitter and 
sharp when cooked. This is on account of the seed 
which '' clings." Cook the plums until tender and then 
put through a sieve. Mix with an equal amount of sweet 



3o8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

apples and cook until mashed, then add sugar to taste — 
almost equal parts. ]\Iany plums are impossible when- 
cooked. If they are put in clear water and allowed to 
heat slowly to the boiling point, this objectionable fea- 
ture, which is in the skin, will be eliminated. Throw 
away that water and proceed to can or preserve. 

Pear and Peach Jam 

Take equal quantities of peaches and pears, and to 
every quart add the juice of one lemon and one orange, 
and the peel of the orange. (Boil the orange peel in two 
waters and drain, then cut into thin strips, and add to 
the fruit.) Allow the fruit to simmer, uncovered, for 
half an hour, and add a pound of sugar to every pound 
of fruit. If you have ten pounds of fruit you can 
safely deduct one pound of sugar, and the fruit will keep 
all right. Boil slowly about ten minutes after sugar is 
added, stirring often to prevent burning. Pour into 
jam pots and cover with paraffin. 

Pear and Cranberry Jam 

Take two parts of pears and one part of cranberries, 
run through a chopper and cook as above, adding the 
peel of an orange to each quart of pulp. 

Honeyed Gooseberries 

Remove each seed from green gooseberries with a 
long needle, so as to keep the fruit in perfect shape. To 
each pound of fruit add half a pound of white honey. 
Stir together in a jar and allow it to stand three days, 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 309 

then turn into a preserving kettle and heat it slowly. 
Let it simmer until the berries look clear and the juice 
is thick, which will take about half an hour. Put into 
small jars and seal. 

Fruit Preserve (Apples, Pears, and Plums) 

Peel and cut into small pieces the apples and pears. 
Skin, stone, and cut up the plums. Use equal propor- 
tions of each fruit after all are cut up. Use a pound of 
sugar to each pound of fruit. Boil until of marmalade 
consistency. Take from the fire and add a handful of 
blanched almonds. Seal in glasses. 

Euchred Plums and Pears 

Nine pounds of fruit, six pounds of white sugar, two 
quarts of vinegar, one ounce of cinnamon. Boil the 
vinegar and spice together ; pour it over the fruit, which 
has been previously placed in a large crock or bowl, and 
let it stand for twenty-four hours. Pour it back over the 
fruit in the bowl. Repeat the process for five mornings, 
the last time boiling the fruit about fifteen minutes. Put 
in canning jars and cover while hot. This recipe is good 
also for peaches or prunes. 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 

To seven pounds of peaches allow three and three- 
quarters pounds of white sugar, one quart of vinegar, 
two ounces of stick cinnamon. Peel the peaches and 
insert one or two cloves in each. Boil the sugar and 
vinegar with several sticks of cinnamon, for five minutes. 



310 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

then put in the peaches. When the fruit is tender, re- 
move it carefully from the syrup and put it in jars. 
Boil the syrup, reducing it nearly half, and pour it over 
the peaches in the jars. 

Spiced Peaches 

For six pounds of fruit use three pounds of granu- 
lated sugar and one pint of vinegar. Into each peach 
insert two cloves. Put into the sugar and vinegar one 
ounce of stick cinnamon (which should be in a cheese- 
cloth bag), and boil. When the mixture is boiling hot 
place the fruit in it and cook it until it is tender. Put it 
into jars and seal at once. 

Rhubarb Relish (for meat course) 

Cut into small pieces one cup of pie-plant or rhubarb. 
Add one-half cupful of water, one and one-half cupfuls 
of sugar, the pulp and sliced rind of a lemon and an 
orange, one-half package each of seeded raisins and cur- 
rants. Cook all over a slow fire. Seal in glasses when 
thick. 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 311 



312 MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 313 



314 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES 315 



3i6 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES 




JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 

N the cooking of vegetables nutritive value 

and digestibility need not be sacrificed when 

a method , is used which secures the best 

flavor and a palatable result. First one 

should understand that the framework of 

vegetables, known as cellulose, and the starch 

which most contain, are almost impossible of 

digestion in their raw state. These must be softened and 

changed by cooking, or the vegetable remains incapable 

of nourishment. 

Take an unripe apple. We have been warned against 
them ever since we made our first furtive trial upon for- 
bidden fruit. The green apple is hard and woody be- 
cause of its cellulose framework. Then nature sets to 
work, and aided by the heat of the sun, forms the acids 
in the fruit, and the hard, cellulose framework in part 
breaks down and dissolves. The same process takes 
place when cabbage is changed into sauerkraut. 

In general, vegetables need long, slow cooking, and the 
drier, the more compact they are, the longer cooking 
and more moisture they need. 



Boiled Asparagus 

All green vegetables, roots, and tubers should be crisp 
and firm and thoroughly clean when put on to cook. 

317 



3i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

With asparagus, cut off the woody part and wash well. 
If this is to be cooked in the casserole, lay it in with 
heads all in one direction, and half cover with boiling 
water. Cover the casserole and place in an oven suffi- 
ciently hot so the water will simmer. Cook until the 
asparagus is tender, a matter of from twenty to forty 
minutes, depending upon the tenderness and freshness 
of the vegetable. Serve on toast with or without a thin 
cream sauce; or the juice in which the asparagus has 
been cooked may be cooked down, a little cream added, 
seasoned, and poured over the asparagus. The water 
should not be thrown away, for valuable salts and much 
flavor are held in it, and it may be used for soup. The 
asparagus may be cut into short pieces if desired. One 
bunch will serve four. 

Spinach 

Spinach has comparatively little food value, but it is 
valuable in other ways. It is a most abused vegetable 
in cooking. It is not difficult, but takes much time and 
water and patience to prepare, for every leaf must be 
scrupulously clean if it is to be eaten with delight. To 
clean the spinach, cut off the roots, break each leaf apart, 
and drop them into a large pan of cold water. Rinse and 
put in another pan, letting fresh water run over them. 
Continue doing this until there is not a trace of sand or 
dirt in the pan. Drain and put the spinach in a large 
kettle, adding for a half-peck of spinach about half a 
cupful of water. Cover carefully and boil ten minutes. 
Pour into a colander to drain. Pour cold water 
over it and let it thoroughly drain. Chop fine and 
reheat in milk, cream, or butter, and serve. Spinach 
holds enough water for ten minutes of cooking, 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 319 

and the half-cupful is added merely for precaution's 
sake. The spinach should be pressed down, and if pos- 
sible, turned over once during the cooking. When cooked 
in this way the vegetable will retain its salts and its flavor 
and be much more delicately palatable than when boiled 
in a quantity of water for a longer time. One-half peck 
will serve four. 

Peas 

Peas should be shelled and the shells put in a sauce- 
pan and covered with boiling water. Cook for thirty min- 
utes, drain and put the shelled peas into this water; add a 
very little sugar, if liked, put in the casserole, and cook, 
simmering slowly until the peas are tender. It is prac- 
tically impossible to give the time of cooking, so much 
depends upon the freshness and maturity of the peas. 
From twenty to thirty minutes, or in the oven from 
thirty to forty, should suffice. They must not be over- 
done. Two quarts will serve four. 

String Beans 

String beans should be blanched. Free them from 
strings, cut up, and soak in cold water, for a longer or 
shorter time. If they are fresh and crisp, twenty minutes 
will do; if wilted, a few hours are needed. Drain, put 
them into rapidly boiling, salted water, and boil rapidly, 
cover ofif, for ten minutes. Drain, let cold water run 
over them, then put them in the casserole with one-half 
cupful of boiling water and one rounding tablespoonful 
of butter for each quart of beans. Cover and cook for 
twenty or twenty-five minutes in a medium hot oven. 
Do not overcook. Season and serve. One quart will 
serve four. 



320 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Cauliflower, cabbage, and brussels sprouts must all 
be soaked for thirty minutes in cold water to which salt 
has been added in order to free them from any insects 
hidden in the leaves. Break the cauliflower into flow- 
erets and cut the cabbage in pieces if the casserole is to be 
used. Half cover with water and cook in the oven, the 
cabbage for an hour or more, depending upon its age, 
the cauliflower from thirty to forty minutes. 

When the cabbage is nearly done, if more than a 
little water remains, pour it off until about one-half cup- 
ful is left. Add one rounding tablespoonful of butter 
or bacon fat, and cook uncovered for the remainder of the 
time. The cauliflower should be cooked until done, 
drained, and served with a cream or hollandaise sauce. 

Brussels sprouts should be prepared for cooking by 
removing any outside leaves after soaking, and putting 
in the casserole with, for a quart of sprouts, one cupful 
of stock and one rounding tablespoonful of butter. 
Cook until tender. Remove cover of the casserole, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, add more butter if necessary, 
and serve without sauce. One quart will serve six. 

There is but one way of finding out when vegetables 
are done, and that is to try them. Salt should be added 
when the cooking is nearly or all done, and the time for 
cooking in the casserole should be from ten to forty 
minutes more than cooking on the stove. They do not 
need careful watching while cooking in this way, and 
will be found to be very delicious. 

Baked Lentils 

\\'ash a quart of lentils and put them into a sauce- 
pan with a quart of cold water ; add a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice, two small onions, each stuck with two 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 321 

cloves, two or three red peppers, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a bunch of garden herbs, including plenty of parsley 
and a small sprig of mint. Place in the pan, well covered, 
over a moderate fire until the water has been absorbed 
and the lentils are soft, but not pulpy. This should not 
take more than half an hour. Then take out the herbs, 
onions, and cloves, put the lentils into a buttered earthen- 
ware dish, cover the top with a light layer of browned 
bread crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, dot it over 
with tiny pieces of butter, and bake it in a quick oven 
just long enough to give it a rich brown crispness. 
Serve with a good brown gravy. Pork or beef can be 
boiled with the lentils if the flavor of meat is desired. 
If German lentils are used in carrying out this recipe, 
they should be soaked at least twenty- four hours, and 
then boiled in the water in which they were soaked to 
secure the best results. 



Lentil and Mushroom Cutlets 

Prepare a quart of lentils as in the recipe for baked 
lentils. Add to them half a pound of fresh mushrooms, 
previously cooked in their own liquor, and lightly fla- 
vored with mace. Set aside the liquor for gravy and add 
to the lentils and mushrooms two tablespoonfuls of red 
currant jelly, two cupfuls of fine browned bread crumbs, 
a dessertspoonful of meat extract, or more if required to 
take up the moisture of the browned bread crumbs, a little 
red pepper, and celery salt. Add three unbeaten eggs, one 
at a time, until the mixture is well bound together. Shape, 
brush with tgg, coat with browned bread crumbs, and fry 
in deep fat, as you would chicken cutlets. With the 
cutlets serve a well-seasoned brown gravy, using mush- 



322 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

room liquor as foundation and adding at the last mo- 
ment another small spoonful of the red currant jelly. 
One-half this recipe will serve eight. 



Baked Lentils and Cheese 

Prepare the lentils as for baked lentils, but sprinkle 
three layers of grated cheese into the baking dish between 
layers of lentils. On the top put thick slices of fine ripe 
tomatoes, arranged thickly, so as to cover the lentils. 
Over the tomatoes sprinkle finely chopped parsley and in 
the center of each slice of tomato put a tiny piece of 
butter. Bake quickly and serve hot with or without 
gravy. 

Red Kidney Beans with Cheese in Chafing Dish 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer, add 
one can of red kidney beans, one small green pepper 
minced finely, and a little onion or minced chives if liked. 
Cook until the peppers are tender. Add one and one-half 
cupfuls of grated cheese, and when melted serve on 
toast. 

Mint-glazed Carrots 

Wash and scrape three carrots and cut in one-fourth 
inch slices. Parboil for ten or fifteen minutes, drain, 
put into a saucepan with one-third cupful each of sugar 
and butter, and one tablespoonful of chopped mint leaves. 
Cook very slowly until glazed and perfectly tender. 
Serve hot, and as a border surrounding a mound nf 
green peas. 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 323 
Mashed Carrots 

Scrape the carrots, wash them, and lay them in cold 
water for half an hour. Cook until tender in boiling 
water ; then drain and mash with butter as desired, season 
with pepper and salt, put in a vegetable dish, garnish with 
parsley, and serve very hot. 

Corn Pudding 

Grate twelve ears of sweet corn. Add four table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter and one teaspoonful of salt. 
Fold in the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten sep- 
arately. Bake this in a well-buttered casserole dish, in a 
quick oven, for forty-five minutes. 

Onions and Cheese 

Wash and peel four large onions, and cut them into 
slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Butter a baking-dish 
and lay the slices in it, placing them close together. 
Sprinkle the onions with salt and pepper, and bake half 
an hour, or until the onions are tender, then cover each 
slice thickly with grated cheese, put in the oven again 
and serve when cheese is melted and browned. Serve in 
the baking-dish or lift out on to a hot platter. Individual 
casseroles can be used to advantage when preparing 
onions in this way. 

Roast Nut and Barley Loaf 

Make a brown sauce with two tablespoonfuls of olive 
oil, one-half of a cupful of browned flour, and use water 



324 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

or vegetable stock for thinning; chop one large onion 
fine, and fry it in one tablespoonful of oil or butter, 
then mix the onion and the sauce with two cupfuls of 
cold boiled pearl barley, one cupful of finely ground 
roasted peanuts, one cupful of fine bread crumbs, one 
teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper. 
With the hands, mold into a loaf, place in a roasting pan 
which has been well buttered and let cook in the oven 
for ten minutes ; then add one tablespoonful of butter 
and one cupful of hot water, and baste ever}' five minutes 
for half an hour. Make brown sauce in the same pan 
and serve with caper sauce. 

Baked Celery with Cheese 

Wash celer};, cut in one-inch pieces, and soak in boiling 
salted water until tender. Drain and reserve stock. 
AA'ith it make a sauce, using four tablespoonfuls of butter 
and four tablespoonfuls of flour. Add the drained ztXtvy, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of 
pepper, and half a cupful of grated cheese. Pour into a 
buttered baking-dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and 
bake until the crumbs are delicately browned. 

Baked Hominy 

Mash enough left-over hominy to fill an ordinary bak- 
ing-dish after all the lumps are eliminated. Add two 
eggs, one teaspoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of 
flour, with one teaspoonful of baking powder, salt, pep- 
per, and about half a cupful of milk, to make a stiff 
batter. Put all this in a dish and bake three-quarters 
of an hour. 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 325 
Italian Polenta 

Make a desired quantity of Indian meal mush, stirring 
it with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour, and 
when quite thick add a small piece of butter, a little 
grated Parmesan cheese, and an tgg beaten until light. 
Beat for two or three minutes, then pour into bread 
tins, moistened with cold water, and set away to cool. 
When it is cold, cut into one-half inch slices, and put 
in layers in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with grated 
cheese, and add a little butter to each layer. Bake in a 
slow oven until the melted cheese has formed a crisp 
brown coating over the polenta. Make a thick sauce of 
concentrated tomatoes and pour over while very hot, and 
immediately before serving. 

Macaroni Savory in Chafing Dish 

Boil and blanch macaroni and drain one quart of it. 
In the meantime mince two small green peppers and two 
small onions. When ready to serve, cook the peppers 
and onions in half a cupful of olive oil in the blazer for 
fifteen minutes, tossing them constantly. Add one cup- 
ful of tomatoes and half a cupful of grated cheese. When 
the cheese is melted, dust with salt, and serve with the 
macaroni in ramekins. 

Spaghetti 

Break one-quarter of a pound of Italian spaghetti into 
pieces one inch long and sprinkle into plenty of boiling 
water. Add two rounded tablespoonfuls of butter and a 
small onion sliced thin. Cook it slowly for one hour. 



S26 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

The spaghetti should then be well done and the water 
boiled down to a creamy liquid. Ten minutes before 
serving add a cupful of finely grated cheese and three 
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. If this is not a sufficient 
amount of the sauce, add enough to flavor the spaghetti 
to taste. Serve the spaghetti with a little grated cheese 
over the top and garnish with finely chopped parsley. 

Mushrooms Baked under Glass 

Pare the mushrooms and cut off the stems. Put thin 
slices of toast, browned only on the underside, on the 
nappies which come with the bells. Saute the mush- 
rooms very delicately in butter and place them on the 
toast. Cover with the bells and bake from fifteen to 
twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. Take from the 
oven, add one tablespoonful of hot cream, a little salt and 
pepper to each nappy, re-cover with bells, and serve. 
Some of the recipes say to saute the mushrooms in the 
butter, add the cream, and simmer. Then put on the 
toast and simply heat in the oven. When this method is 
used the greatest care has to be employed not to let the 
cream cook. The first method insures better results in 
cooking the mushrooms without burning and sticking, 
and produces, therefore, a more delicate flavor. 

French Peas, Normandy Style 

Cut two thin slices of bacon into small dice, and place 
in a saute pan with four small onions, sliced. Cook 
until the onions begin to brown; add the liquor from 
one can of small peas, and cook until the onions are 
thoroughly tender. Add the peas, salt, and pepper to 
taste, and simmer for twenty minutes. If necessary to 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 327 

thicken, take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of 
one tgg at once, and stir until the mixture thickens. 
There should be enough heat to cook the ^gg without 
keeping it over the fire. There is danger in too much 
cooking, for fear the Qgg yolk will cook hard, and there- 
fore separate. Serve at once. 



Summer Squash 

Slice a good-sized onion into a tablespoonful of melted 
butter or olive oil. When slightly browned, add a sum- 
mer squash cut into small dice. Season with salt and 
pepper. Cover and cook until squash is tender. 

Boiled Jerusalem Artichokes 

Put one pound of artichokes into cold water. Scrape 
the artichokes with small knife until they are white all 
over, then put them in a pot of boiling water. Cook them 
vigorously for a good half-hour, then strain the water 
off and serve very hot with plenty of butter, pepper, and 
a little salt. 

Fried Celery 

Make a batter with two cupfuls of flour and two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, well sifted together, one and 
a half cupfuls of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup- 
ful of melted butter, and a speck of salt. Cut as many 
stalks of celery as desired in pieces three or four inches 
in length, and cook in boiling salted water until tender. 
Drain and let dry on a platter; dip them into the batter 
until well coated and fry in hot fat until brown. Serve 
on a flat dish with a border of celery leaves. 



328 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Smothered Tomatoes 

Cut six small tomatoes in halves crosswise. Arrange 
them in a baking pan, with the skin side down. Pour 
over them three tablespoonfuls of melted butter and some 
finely minced parsley. Season with pepper and salt and 
cover over with another pan and cook until they are soft. 

Tomato Curry 

Cook one tablespoonful of minced celery, one of minced 
green pepper, and one teaspoonful of minced onion in one 
tablespoonful of butter, lay in four large slices of tomato 
which have been rolled in flour and cornmeal mixed, 
and cook them on both sides without breaking them. 
Have toast covered with finely minced chicken or lamb, 
and lay a slice of tomato on each. Add to the pan one 
teaspoonful each of corn starch and curry powder dis- 
solved in one-half cupful of cream. When boiling pour 
over the tomatoes. The meat may be omitted. 

Tomatoes a la Tom 

Cook slowly three slices of bacon diced. Remove the 
veins and seeds from four green peppers and cut in 
small pieces. Peel four medium-sized onions and cut 
in small pieces. Add the peppers and onions to the bacon 
and cook until a nice brown. Remove to a covered dish 
to keep hot. Slice six large ripe tomatoes and dip each in 
flour in which salt and pepper has been dusted. Fry in 
half butter and half lard. Turn them carefully and 
brown on both sides. Remove to a platter and pour the 
bacon, peppers, and onions over them. Pour over all a 
cream sauce made of a tablespoonful of flour rubbed 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 329 

smooth in a tablespoonful of butter in the same frying- 
pan. Add one cupful of milk and cook until thick. 

Tomato Rabbit 

Cook one tablespoonful of chopped onion in one table- 
spoonful of butter five minutes. Add one cupful of to- 
matoes, cook two minutes, and strain. In a saucepan, 
or the blazer of the chafing dish, melt two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and three- 
fourths of a cupful of thin cream. Cook until thickened, 
then add two cupfuls of cheese cut in dice or thinly 
shaved, the tomato, and one-half teaspoonful each of 
mustard and salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika. 
Stir until cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth. 
Add two slightly beaten eggs, cook one minute, and 
serve on toast or heated crackers. 

Rice with Tomato and Cheese 

Pick over and wash half a cupful of rice. Place in 
the upper part of a double boiler with three cupfuls of 
boiling water, and boil five minutes. Add one cupful of 
tomato puree, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one tea- 
spoonful each of chopped onion and green pepper, cooked 
until soft in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook in the 
double boiler, without stirring, until the rice is soft, then 
add half a cupful of grated cheese. Stir with a fork 
and serve as soon as the cheese is melted. 

Cabbage Hors d'Oeuvre 

Two cupfuls of raw cabbage, two tablespoonfuls of 
chives, one fresh red pepper, and a few olives. Chop all 
separately and cover with a French dressing. 



330 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Celery Croquettes 

Cut the outer green stalks of a bunch of celery into 
small pieces and boil in slightly salted water until very 
tender ; drain and mash to a paste, adding a small cupful 
of grated bread crumbs, a high seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, the yolk of one hard-cooked ^gg, blended with a 
quarter of a teaspoonful of French mustard, one table- 
spoonful of cream sauce, and the beaten yolk of one tgg\ 
mix the ingredients thoroughly and, with floured hands, 
form into small croquettes, frying in deep fat (any 
vegetable oil) to a golden brown; serve on a folded 
napkin, inserting in the top of each a sprig of parsley, 
attached to a small toothpick. 



Black Bean Soup 

Soak a quart of the beans all night. In the morning 
turn off the water and cover them with boiling water for 
half an hour; drain again and add two quarts of boiling 
water, slightly salted. Boil slowly until the beans are 
broken to pieces. Rub through a sieve back into the 
pot with the water in which they were boiled, and pour 
in upon the puree a quart of good stock. Simmer for 
half an hour; season with onion juice, salt, and pepper 
to taste. Thicken with a roux of browned flour rubbed 
to a paste with butter, using a tablespoonful of each to 
a pint, then cook for a minute, boil up once, and it is 
ready to serve. Have ready diced or fried bread to 
put upon the surface when it goes into the tureen or into 
plates. Some prefer sliced lemon, peeled, and laid upon 
the top of the soup, to the fried bread. 







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Celery Croquettes. 
Recipe given on Page jjo. 







Shad Roe Croquettes. 
Recipe given on Page i6j.. 




Lentils, Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. A Salad 

Dressing may he added if liked. 

Directions for Cooking the Lentils on Page S^o. 



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Green Peppers Stuffed with CauMower. 
Recipe given on Page jj^. 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 331 
Belgian Corn Fritters 

To one can of corn add the beaten yolks of two 
eggs and one cupful of flour which has been sifted with 
one teaspoonful of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of 
salt, and one-third teaspoonful of paprika. Beat well 
together, then add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped 
parsley. Fold in the stifliy beaten whites of two eggs. 
Cook in a frying pan, preferably in bacon fat, dropping 
a large tablespoonful in the pan. Fry golden brown on 
each side and serve garnished with strips of bacon. 

Mint Peas 

Cook the peas in the regular way, but add one or two 
mint sprigs while cooking. This adds a delicate flavor 
of mint. 



Mock Beef a la Mode 

Beef a la mode is a substantial dish. Cut a Hubbard 
squash into thick slices, remove the outer skin and the 
pithy inside portion which contains the seeds. Butter a 
deep stone baking-dish. Arrange a layer of the squash ; 
dust with salt and pepper; add a thinly sliced onion and 
a layer of tender carrots, thinly sliced, with a thin cover- 
ing of chopped parsley. Repeat with alternate layers 
until the dish is full, and then fill up with beef-stock. 
Cover and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Make 
a thick brown gravy with some more stock ; add a table- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce or mushroom-ketchup ; 
arrange squash cutlets and other vegetables on a heated 



332 THE PURR FOOD COOK BOOK 

dish, and pour the gravy over it. Garnish with small yel- 
low turnips which have been boiled, and fried hominy. 
Serve with potatoes and tender cabbage. Remember, a 
large Hubbard squash must be used for this dish. When 
properly cooked you can hardly detect that no meat has 
been used. 

Red Cabbage 

Wash a large head, quarter, shred fine, wash again, and 
drain. Put a lump of drippings in a deep skillet, test 
with shredded onion; when the onion browns put in the 
cabbage, stir well, add boiling water to cover, and cook 
an hour. Then add three large apples, sliced thin, and 
a small pinch of salt ; let boil ten minutes, then stir in a 
level tablespoonful of flour wet smooth in three spoon- 
fuls of vinegar. Boil up, and serve hot. A variant, much 
approved in some kitchens, is to slice sweet potatoes in- 
stead of apples. Finish the same. 



Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower 

Cut a thin slice from the stem end of large green 
peppers and remove seeds. Parboil ten minutes and fill 
with creamed cauliflower. Sprinkle tops with buttered 
crumbs and bake until skins are tender, basting occa- 
sionally with butter and water. 



Okra 

Test with the thumb-nail. Unless the nail cuts it 
freely the pods are too tough. But do not throw away 



JUST HOW ro COOK VEGETABLES 333 

the tough ones. Shell the seed from them and either 
dry to use in soups, or to cook alone, when they should 
be served with butter, vinegar, and salt. Cut stems off 
the pods, cook whole those half-grown or under, but cut 
those more mature into half-inch slices. Boil tender, 
in water very slightly salted. When a fork pierces them 
readily they are cooked enough. Drain them well, lay 
in a deep pan or hot dish, dress liberally with butter, 
pepper, salt, and vinegar, and set for five minutes in a 
hot oven. They should be served very hot. 



Mock Pork 

Mock pork requires squash, but the white, summer 
variety. Select a nicely shaped, large squash. Be sure 
not to get one that looks at all yellow, for if you do it 
will have to be peeled, which is undesirable, as peeled 
squash is apt to fall to pieces in the cooking. Cut a 
circle with a sharp knife all around the squash, and re- 
move, to enable you to scoop out the seeds ; then fill with 
.the following dressing: One pint of stale bread crumbs; 
one onion chopped fine ; one-half teaspoonful of powdered 
sage; a teaspoonful of dried mustard; two ounces of 
butter cut into small pieces ; half a teaspoonful of salt 
and pepper; mix thoroughly; moisten with two beaten 
eggs. After the squash is filled, replace the piece that 
was cut out, put into a baking pan, and cook for two 
hours. Use bacon or pork drippings to baste with. To 
make the gravy which should accompany it, fry a sliced 
onion golden brown in butter ; add pepper and salt to 
taste, and half a pint of milk; stir constantly, cook until 
golden brown, and the consistency of thick cream. Put 
the baked squash on a hot platter; pile up a wall of 



334 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

apple sauce around it; mashed turnips and new potatoes 
are the nicest vegetables to serv^e with it. 



Escallop of Green Corn 

Eight small or six large ears of tender corn, one quart 
of ripe tomatoes, a half-pint of mild onions, heaping 
tablespoonful butter, teaspoonful sugar, half-teaspoonful 
salt, dust of black pepper or one large green pepper 
shredded fine. Peel tomatoes, cut in thick slices, slice 
onions thin, blanch, and drain, cut corn from cob, saving 
all the milk, put a layer over the bottom of an earthen 
dish, cover with sliced tomatoes and onions, then sprinkle 
with salt and sugar, and dot with bits of butter and 
shreds of pepper. Repeat till dish is full, putting plenty 
of butter on top, pour over the milk from the corn, and 
bake in a very hot oven twenty-five to thirty minutes. 
Serve hot or cold. If served cold, with a sharp French 
dressing or a boiled vinegar dressing, it makes a satis- 
fying salad. 

Summer Hot Pot 

Select medium-sized tomatoes which are just ripe, but 
nothing more, for they must be quite solid. Dip in scald- 
ing water, to loosen their skins : peel, and cut into quar- 
ters or halves, according to size. Put a layer at the 
bottom of a casserole; then a layer of onions. They 
should not be any larger than marbles. Xext a layer of 
potatoes, cut into slices ; scatter a little chopped parsley 
with salt and pepper ; repeat with more tomatoes and the 
different ingredients until you have enough for your 
familv. Barelv cover with meat stock, bring to the boil, 



JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 335 

then draw back where it will slowly simmer for an hour 
or bake in an oven. We like either cauliflower and peas, 
or asparagus and spinach with it. 

Steamed Squash in Shell 

Carefully cut the top from a squash preferably oval in 
sh'ape, though the round ones may be used. Steam it 
until tender. Scrape out the pulp and pass it through a 
vegetable sieve or mash it and beat until very smooth. 
Make a cream sauce : melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when blended, one 
cupful of milk. Season highly with salt and pepper, and 
cook until thickened, stirring to prevent lumps. Beat 
into the squash pulp, season again if not sufficient, and 
pack the mixture into the shell. Cover with buttered 
crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. Brown in a 
hot oven, and serve from the shell. 

Stuffed Eggplant 

Cut in halves without peeling, cook in boiling salted 
water fifteen minutes. Remove pulp, chop, and mix with 
one cupful of stale bread crumbs. Season with salt, pep- 
per, butter, and onion juice. Cook for five minutes, cool, 
add one beaten ^gg, and fill the eggplant halves. Cover 
with buttered crumbs and bake twenty-five minutes. 

Hulled Corn 

One quart of corn, one heaping tablespoonful of sale- 
ratus put into a kettle of water on the stove. Keep the 
corn covered with two or three inches of water, and boil 



336 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

until you can take a kernel in your fingers and slip off 
the hull. Remove from stove and wash in three or four 
waters ; then boil until tender. 



Corn Cakes to Serve with Meat 

One cupful of canned corn, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
one cupful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, three- 
fourths of a cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of baking 
powder, and two well-beaten eggs. To the corn add 
milk, sugar, and eggs well beaten. Mix and sift salt, flour, 
and baking powder. Combine mixtures, drop by spoon- 
fuls into hot buttered muffin-ring set in a buttered baking- 
pan, and bake in a moderate oven until firm. A delicious 
accompaniment to roast beef. 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 337 



338 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 339 



340 MORE WAYS OF COOKIXG VEGETABLES 



MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 341 



342 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 




LMOST every one who has made brine pickles 
has had the maddening experience of having 
them turn soft. In factories this has caused 
much loss of money — in Michigan, for ex- 
ample, the loss from this cause is estimated 
at an average of about $i,ooo a year for each 
factory; in homes it has caused much loss of 
labor and temper, for what is true of the factory's 
tank in regard to pickle softening is just as true of 
the housewife's two-gallon crock. The difference is 
that whereas the factory has been able to carry on ex- 
pensive investigations into the cause of pickle spoilage, 
the housewife could only hope for better luck next year. 
Now, however, the time has come when the housewife 
can, if she will, make use of the factory's knowledge. 

Investigations of especially noteworthy thoroughness 
have been made by Dr. Otto Rahn, who is in charge of 
the canners' fund of the University of Illinois. His work 
occupied a period of six months; but as six calendar 
months mean three pickle years practically every char- 
acteristic of the conditions likely to be met with in brine 
pickling is covered thereby. Dr. Rahn, setting out to 
understand the normal brine pickle from the very begin- 
ning, first ascertained just what happens to a cucumber to 
change it into a pickle. In this connection, he discovered 
one very interesting fact: it is not the salt in the brine 
that causes the pickle to keep. Salt, and that in good 
measure, is absolutely necessary to pickle keeping, but 

343 



344 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

salt alone is not enough. The essential factor in keeping 
brine pickles is the acid, probably lactic acid, which forms 
through the action of bacteria. Many manufacturers do 
not know that their brine contains acid, yet the instant it 
does not contain it the pickle is on the way to destruction. 

There are no bacteria in a healthy cucumber, nor are 
there any in strong brine ; then how do they get into the 
pickle-tank? They ride in in thousands on the outside 
of the cucumber, especially if a little soil adheres. Im- 
mersion in strong brine finishes the life story of most of 
them, but a few regard it as a chance to prove themselves. 
And from within the cucumber comes their food. The 
cucumbers shrink in the brine, giving off water, and with 
it sugar, and other traces of bacterial food. Sugar is 
especially acceptable to the busy bacteria, and the kinds 
that can tolerate the salt immediately begin to grow and 
decompose the sugar. Acid and gas follow upon this 
decomposition. The gas escapes and makes the familiar 
froth, while the acid reveals its presence by its action 
upon the color of the pickles, turning their grass-green- 
ness to the olive-green everywhere recognized as the cor- 
rect tint for pickles. When the frothing ceases, the acid 
becomes fairly strong, and as it is a rather capable dis- 
infectant, it will kill most of the bacteria in the brine. 

But the trouble is, that there is more than just this acid 
formed in the brine. The brine and the cucumbers in 
combination possess not alone the power of establishing 
their own preservation, but also the power of bringing 
about their own destruction. Besides the bacteria, a 
skum-yeast is always present in the brine. This skum- 
yeast destroys the lactic acid, and leaves the pickles open 
to destruction. Were the growth of this skum-yeast pre- 
vented so that the acid would remain in the brine, pickles 
undoubtedly could be kept for centuries. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 345 

But the encouraging fact brought by the investigations 
is that the prevention of skum-yeast is not impossible or 
even excessively difficult. Skimming it off is an ineffi- 
cient and unsatisfactory method of getting rid of it, be- 
cause it always grows in again; but it cannot tolerate 
sunlight, and it must have air. The old-fashioned out- 
door tanks were not bothered much with skum-yeast; 
trouble started when the roof was built. As for the 
necessity of air to skum-yeast, that is attested by the very 
fact that it grows as a skum. On the other hand, the 
bacterium which forms the acid in the brine has just the 
opposite characteristic — it avoids the air. Sunlight, too, 
would kill it, but it grows at the bottom of the tank, or 
jar, where there is no light. So it becomes apparent that 
whatever shuts the air from brine pickles encourages the 
presence of acid, and also discourages the skum-yeast. 

Dr. Rahn's experiments proved this point very clearly. 
He experimented with pickles in glass jars and also in 
barrels, with precisely similar results. In the case of the 
barrels, six barrels of cucumbers were brined in the usual 
way ; then three of them were kept open, while the other 
three were covered with about two inches of cottonseed 
oil, after the barrels were headed up, air-tight, with but 
one small hole for the gas to escape. All six barrels 
fermented normally, but at the end of twenty-two months 
the pickles in the three open barrels were so soft that they 
could not be taken out without falling to pieces, while 
those in the closed barrels were in first-class condition 
and of excellent flavor. The brine of the open barrels 
showed no trace of acid, in fact, it was slightly alkaline, 
while the brine under oil had not changed its acidity in 
twenty-one months. Do not, however, suppose from this 
that cottonseed-oil is the essential of preservation. What 
is to be recommended is the exclusion of air. 



346 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Indeed, cottonseed-oil cannot be used by manufacturers 
or housewives, because it would make the pickles oily, 
and eventually rancid. There is, however, paraffin, that 
noble ally of the jelly- jar. This gave complete satisfac- 
tion when tried on a two-gallon jar of pickles; and even 
in factories its use would not be too expensive, as the 
paraffin could be remelted and used year after year. But 
of course, in case of its use, care must be taken not to 
pour it on until the fermentation has ceased, as otherwise 
the gases arising from the brine would tear it to pieces 
and make a remelting necessary. But the great fact is 
that exclusion of air will result in the retention of the 
acid and the prevention of the formation of the skum- 
yeast which destroys the acid, thus causing the pickles to 
keep indefinitely. 

There is also an earlier stage in the life history of a, 
pickle, when certain bacteria can get in their w^ork of 
destruction, and should consequently be guarded against. 
This is the period before normal fermentation begins. 
In Dr. Rahn's opinion, the spoilage that may then occur 
is due to the action of one of the so-called potato bac- 
teria. These stand salt well, and if they happen to be 
present in fairly large numbers, they can do great dam- 
age, for they grow very fast. Fighting these bacteria, 
however, is not difficult. Putting in brine from a fer- 
menting tank or jar, or even a little vinegar, will speedily 
cause their career to cease. Where this is not possible, 
attention to temperature and whatever induces rapid fer- 
mentation will put them out of the ranks of trouble- 
makers. Also, pickles should be compelled to stay under 
brine instead of being allowed to poke out where the 
potato bacteria can catch them. 

In short, the great secret of successful pickle-making 
lies in bringing about acid fermentation quickly, and 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 347 

after this is over, in preserving the acidity of 
the brine. 

Since some bacteria are necessary for the keeping of 
pickles, it is not advisable to rid the outside of the cucum- 
bers of bacteria before putting them into brine, for then 
the good would perish with the evil bacteria. Neither 
is it necessary to wash the cucumbers, since all brine 
pickles are washed anyway before being eaten. In the 
case of dill pickles, of course, this does not apply. They 
are eaten as they come from the tank, and therefore the 
cucumbers used in making them should be washed be- 
fore pickling. It has been recommended by a German 
bacteriologist that a little whey from sour milk be put 
into the pickle-barrel to hasten the fermentation. But 
this practice has been tried with dill pickles only — brine 
pickles being unknown in Germany. 



Tiny Cucumbers or Gherkin Pickles 

Select one hundred very small prickly cucumbers 
or gherkins, of uniform size, and cover them with cold 
water. In an hour drain and turn them into a large 
crock. Add one cupful of salt to sufficient boiling water 
to cover the cucumbers and pour this over them. Cover 
the crock closely and let it stand for two days. After 
this, drain, rejecting those that may be imperfect or 
soft, and pack them in a clean crock. Heat one quart 
of cider vinegar with half a cupful of brown sugar until 
it boils, skim, and add half a cupful of fresh horseradish 
slivers, one red pepper, and two small shredded green 
peppers, half a cupful of nasturtium seeds, half an 
ounce of celery seed, a quarter of an ounce of stick 
cinnamon, two ounces of white and brown mustard seed, 



348 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

one teaspoonful of alum broken into small bits, half of 
a small onion sliced, one dozen cloves, and a small blade 
of mace. \\'hen this is boiling, strain and pour it into 
the crock, stirring the cucumbers from the bottom. 
Cover closely and let it stand for a week, then reheat the 
liquid, pack the pickles in glass jars, fill with hot vinegar, 
and seal the jars; or replace the pickles in crocks and 
cover closely. They will be ready for use in six weeks. 
If the flavor of Tarragon vinegar is preferred, use half 
Tarragon and half cider vinegar. 

East Indian Pickles 

Slice two quarts of green tomatoes, six small onions, five 
medium-sized green cucumbers, and a small head of red 
cabbage. Place them in a crock in separate layers with 
a sprinkling of salt between each layer. After twenty- 
four hours cover with the following boiling mixture 
(which should be drained oft and reheated each dav for 
three days ) : Three pints of cider vinegar, a fourth of a 
pound of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery 
seed, two small green peppers, shredded, one and a half 
pounds of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of black 
pepper, and one-fourth of a cupful of turmeric. On the 
third morning add two cupfuls of Tarragon A'inegar. one 
tablespoonful of mustard, half a cupful of salad oil, and 
one teaspoonful of curry powder. Seal in glass jars 
and use after six weeks. 



Green Tomatoes and Pepper Relish 

Chop finely one peck of green tomatoes, three large 
onions, six green peppers with the seeds removed, boil 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 349 

them three minutes in two quarts of very weak vinegar, 
drain, and turn into glass jars. Scald three quarts of 
vinegar with two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of 
white mustard seed, one tablespoonful each of cinnamon, 
cloves, and allspice, three tablespoonfuls of salt, and one 
teaspoonful of celery seed. When this is boiling, pour it 
over the chopped ingredients and seal the jars. 



Green Tomato Sweet Pickles 

Slice thinly one peck of green tomatoes and cover them 
with one gallon of water mixed with one cupful of salt. 
The next day drain this thoroughly. Heat two quarts of 
vinegar with three cupfuls of brown sugar and two table- 
spoonfuls of mixed spices in a bag. With a skimmer 
plunge a few of the tomatoes at a time into this boiling 
vinegar. Cook for a few moments, and put them immedi- 
ately into hot glass jars. Fill them with the boiling hquid 
and seal. 



Stuffed Green Peppers (or Mangoes) 

Cut the tops from the peppers (or mangoes), remove 
the seeds, and cover both the tops and the peppers with a 
brine strong enough to hold up an ^gg, then leave them 
for three or four days. Drain and stuff them with shaved 
cabbage seasoned with mustard seed, celery seed, chopped 
onion, grated horseradish, a suspicion of mace, and a 
little brown sugar, all moistened with salad oil. Tie on 
the tops, pack in a crock, and pour over them boiling Tar- 
ragon vinegar. Seal, and do not use them before two 
months have elapsed. 



350 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Mixed Mustard Pickle 

Slice one quart of onions, one quart of small green to- 
matoes, and one large peeled cucumber. Break one head 
of cauliflower into small pieces, and cut one quart of 
green or wax beans into half-inch lengths. Cover each 
of these with salt and water, also one quart of button 
onions, one quart of tiny cucumbers, and two red peppers 
and two green peppers shredded. The next morning 
boil them until they are tender, drain them and toss them 
together. Boil one quart of vinegar with one cupful of 
sugar mixed with a third of a cupful of flour and a 
fourth of a pound of mustard. When this is thick, add 
one teaspoonful of celery seed, half a cupful of butter, 
and one tablespoonful of turmeric. Add this to the other 
ingredients, and turn all into glass jars, and seal. 

Tomato Catsup (Uncooked) 

Chop finely half a peck of ripe tomatoes, three red 
and three green peppers (without seeds), four celery 
stalks, and two onions ; add one cupful of grated horse- 
radish in one cupful of Tarragon vinegar, half a cupful 
of black and white mustard seed, one cupful of brown 
sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, three tablespoon- 
fuls of salt, and one pint of cider vinegar. ]\Iix this well 
and put into jars or bottles and seal. 

Pepper Hash 

Chop finely twelve green peppers, twelve sweet red 
peppers, and twelve very small onions ; add three table- 
spoonfuls of salt, and let it simmer for ten minutes ; then 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 351 

drain and add one quart of vinegar and one cupful of 
brown sugar. Let it come to a boil, and then turn it 
into jars. Use this for sandwiches. 

Cucumber Catsup (Uncooked) 

Peel and chop six green cucumbers (table size), add 
one green pepper, and two small onions minced. Drain 
this and add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and turn 
it into glass jars. Use this for sandwiches. 

Chili Sauce 

Chop four quarts of ripe tomatoes, four medium-sized 
onions, and one red pepper; add two cupfuls of vinegar, 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of 
salt, and two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. Boil this one 
hour and turn it into jars and seal. Use with salad 
dressing and as a relish for cold meats. 

Ripe Tomato Sweet Pickle 

Peel and weigh tomatoes of uniform size, taking care 
that they are not overripe. Lay them carefully in a 
stone crock, and cover them with cold vinegar. The 
next day take up the tomatoes carefully in a skimmer, 
and lay them on a plate and place the plate in the bottom 
of a kettle. To half of the vinegar add sugar weighing 
half the weight of the tomatoes, heat this and add a 
bag of whole spices ; pour this gently over the tomatoes, 
and place it over a low fire to keep very hot (not boiling) 
for four hours. Pack these in the crock and cover. 
Serve with meat. 



352 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Yellow Egg Tomato Sweets 

In the morning, scald quickly, and peel six pounds of 
tomatoes. Cover them with one quart of water mixed 
with one pint of vinegar and one tablespoonful of salt, 
and let it stand over night. Drain the tomatoes and to 
each pound use three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Pack 
in layers and let stand until morning. Pour off the syrup 
and add small, thin slices of lemon, a few pieces of ginger 
root, four drops of oil of cinnamon, and two drops of 
oil of cloves. Boil this syrup until it is thick, add the 
tomatoes and cook until they are transparent. Pack them 
into small jars, and fill with the thick syrup. Serve them 
with chicken or meats. 

Spiced Currants 

For every five pounds of currants take two quarts of 
water and one pint of vinegar, one tablespoonful ground 
cinnamon, and four pounds of sugar; two teaspoonfuls 
ground cloves ; one teaspoonful each of ground allspice 
and mace. Boil the currants with the sugar. When 
quite thick, add the vinegar and spices and boil, stirring 
well for fifteen or twenty minutes more. Store as jelly. 

Preserved Watermelon Rind 

Peel the rind from one-half of a melon, rejecting all of 
the soft pink part. Chop it finely or cut it in a meat 
grinder. Place it over night in a bowl with a sprinkling 
of salt over each layer of chopped rind. In the morning 
draw off all the liquid and freshen it in cold water, by 
washing it two or three times. Place it on the fire in 
the preserving kettle with one cupful of sugar to every 



JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 353 

cupful of rind, and let it boil for two or three hours. 
Add the grated peel of three lemons or the peel cut in 
thin bits and the pulp cut into small pieces. Reject the 
seeds. Seal in small jars, not jelly glasses. 

Grape Conserve 

Remove the pulp of five pounds of grapes. Cook it 
and take out the seeds. Chop two pounds of raisins and 
half a pound of English walnut meats. Add the grated 
rind and juice of three oranges and four pounds of granu- 
lated sugar. Cook all together until i" is quite thick. 

Beet Chowder 

To two cupfuls of finely chopped beets (boiled) add 
two cupfuls of chopped cabbage and one cupful of horse- 
radish. Heat it and pour over the mixture the follow- 
ing: Two cupfuls of vinegar, one pound of sugar, one 
tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of mustard. 
This will keep indefinitely if put in glass jars. 



354 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES 355 



356 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES 




ICE CREAM AND CAKE 

By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. 

iJROM a nutritive point of view, both ice cream 
and cake are valuable foods. They are some- 
what of the same nature, namely, largely 
sugars. Ice cream, however, contains quite a 
quantity of protein and fat derived from the 
cream. Cake contains some protein and fat 
also, the proteins being derived from the flour 
and the fat added as " shortening " in the process of 
making. Thus it is seen that ice cream and cake are 
largely heat- forming bodies due to the sugars and fats 
which they contain. They are, however, by no means 
devoid of protein, building materials, so that to a certain 
extent they may be regarded as balanced foods, though 
the balance is by no means perfect. There is more fat 
or oil and sugar in ice cream and cake than the needs 
of the body demand. Hence, a due regard for health 
would indicate that these desserts are to be eaten in 
somewhat limited quantities. Above all, the person who 
sits at the table should satisfy his appetite in a restrained 
manner. It should not be all wasted upon the first dishes 
that come, but a portion of it should be reserved for 
dessert, when it consists of nutritious foods like cake 
and ice cream. If this were done, the damage which so 
often results from eating desserts would be avoided, for 
the harm usually is due to the fact that the nutritional 
needs of the body have been gratified before the dessert 
is reached. Only large children and grown people should 
partake of these articles of food ; the young child will 
do far better to have his meal without dessert. 



357 




A Souffle Tin. 

Directions for Making are on Page 248. It is Useful 

for Baking all Souffles. 




Raspberry Jelly. 
Recipe zvill he found on Page 260. 




Acorn Cakes. 
Recipe will be found on Page ^pi. 




Devil's Food Pudding. 
Recipe will he found on Page 385. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 




HE parfaits, mousses, and biscuits (pro- 
nounced, in French, " biskwee ") are par- 
ticularly practical desserts, as they need no 
stirring during the freezing process. Taken 
as a whole there are perhaps no desserts 
other than the multitudes of frozen ones that 
so pleasantly bring a dinner to its close. They 
are practical, too. They can be made and left to ripen 
some hours before serving. This enables the cook to set 
the dessert aside and do all the rest of her work up to 
the last minute. And again, they are less trouble to 
prepare than pies, cakes, or puddings. , 

These simple concoctions are in general a light ice 
cream, having as a base custard, creams, whipped eggs 
reinforced with fruits, syrups, and gelatine ; or com- 
binations of these. The most frequent base is whipped 
cream. The cream must be beaten until very stiff, fla- 
vored as desired, and placed in a mold in the ice for three 
to four hours. All ingredients must be carefully folded 
into the cream to preserve the mosslike texture of the 
frozen product. Gelatine can be used with thin cream ; 
and the whip of thin cream as well. The proportions of 
sugar and flavorings are about double those needed for 
an ordinary pudding which is not to be frozen. 

When using fruit it is generally better to use the 
juices, or pulp, as bits of fruit may become too much 
like lumps of ice. 

359 



36o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

The difference between parfaits and mousses may be 
said to consist in the use of eggs and syrups in parfaits 
and the sugar and gelatine in mousses. The biscuits are 
merely mousses molded in individual forms. 



How to Mold These Desserts 

While preparing the mixture, place the mold on ice 
until it is thoroughly cold, then put in the mixture by 
spoonfuls and spread it carefully throughout the mold. 
Fill so that when the cover is put on some of the mixture 
will be forced out. Cover the top of the mold (before 
putting on the lid) with buttered paper or soft wrapping 
paper a little larger than the surface to be covered. 
Put on the cover, and bury the mold in the freezing 
mixture for from three to four hours. If this method is 
followed, no salt can possibly enter the mold. 



To Freeze 

The ordinary proportion for freezing is three parts 
of ice to one of rock salt, but here we suggest two parts 
of ice to one of rock salt. When rock salt and ice of 
about the same size are mixed, the salt melts the ice. 
In this way the salt, too, dissolves, so that both solids are 
liquefied. The heat which causes this to happen is drawn 
from the ice cream which is to be frozen, as it is by this 
extraction of heat that the freezing process takes place. 
The best ice for freezing is porous or snow ice, as the 
air holes permit the salt's easy access to the ice, causing 
it to melt rapidly. Do not draw off the water in the 
freezer until the ice floats on top (this liquid is colder 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 361 

than the unmelted ice), because the freezing process is 
at its height and the water from this time on will rise in 
temperature and can then be drawn off. If necessary, at 
this point, more of the freezing mixture can be added. 



To Remove from the Mold 

Wash the mold in cold water, remove all brine, and 
wipe perfectly dry. Remove cover and paper. Invert 
the mold on a flat dish, and if the room is warm it should 
slip out comfortably. If it does not, rinse a cloth in hot 
water and wrap it about the mold for a fraction of a 
minute until the contents slide out readily. 

It is better not to let mousses or parfaits freeze very 
hard, as they are difficult to remove from molds and are 
not pleasant to eat. Very often to obviate the difficulties 
encountered on removing these frozen desserts, the mold 
is lined with a sherbet whose melting point is a bit 
higher than the mousse or parfait. The sherbet melts 
more quickly and therefore slips away from the mold 
more readily. 



Lemon Parfait 

Make one cupful of thick lemon syrup by heating one 
cupful sugar with one-half cupful of water. Add the 
juice and grated rind of three lemons. Pour this over 
two beaten tgg yolks. Cook in a double boiler until it 
thickens. Remove from the stove and when it cools com- 
bine it with one pint (two cupfuls) of thick cream beaten 
until stiff — or the whip from thinner cream. Fill molds 
and pack in ice and salt for three or four hours. 



362 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Coffee Parfait 

Pour a syrup of one-half of a cupful of sugar and one 
cupful of strong cofifee over two beaten eggs. Cook this 
in a double boiler until it thickens. Remove from stove, 
and when it is cool, combine it with one pint (two cup- 
fuls) of thick cream, beaten until stiff — or the whip from 
thinner cream. Fill molds and pack in ice and salt for 
three or four hours. 



Walnut Mousse 

Whip four cupfuls of cream until thick. Flavor with 
a teaspoonful of vanilla. Fold in two cupfuls of walnut 
meats until all are included. Pack in mold and freeze for 
three hours. Serve with chocolate sauce. Thin cream 
can be used with one ounce of gelatine dissolved in one- 
quarter cupful of w^ater. 



Mint Biscuit Mousse 

Rub off the yellow rind of three lemons on six lumps of 
loaf sugar, then crush the sugar to a powder, adding four 
tablespoonfuls of mint extract, made from steeping in 
boiling water a handful of bruised mint leaves. Mix 
in carefully a cupful of grated macaroon crumbs, the 
yolk of one well-beaten ^gg, and a pint of stiltly whipped 
cream. Beat steadily for five minutes, and turn into 
small tin molds or forms having watertight covers. Bury 
this in chopped ice and rock salt for three hours before 
serving. Serve in individual portions on squares of 
sponge cake accompanied by any desired sauce. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 363 

Ginger Mousse 

Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatine in one- 
fourth of a cupful of cold water, add a pinch of salt and 
three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar. Stir and 
strain gradually into two coffee cupfuls of cream whipped 
very stiff and flavored with two tablespoonfuls of ginger 
syrup, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Before 
freezing, add one cupful of preserved crystallized ginger, 
cut in very small pieces. 

Pineapple Mousse 

To one cupful of pineapple syrup, heated, add one 
tablespoonful of gelatine softened in one-fourth of a 
cupful of cold water, one cupful of sugar, and two table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice. Strain and let cool. As the 
mixture thickens, fold in one quart (four cupfuls) of 
whipped cream. Mold, pack in ice and salt, and let 
stand for four hours. 

Frappes 

A frappe is a half-frozen ice, of a mushy consistency, 
and of a granular texture. Gelatine is not used and 
sugar alone is often employed instead of the usual sugar 
syrup. This makes the combining of ingredients for 
frappes simpler than for other dishes. Their coarse, 
granular texture in contrast to the smooth, fine-grained 
texture of creams and sherbets is produced chiefly by 
the different proportions of salt and ice, used in freezing. 
The smaller amount of salt used, the finer the grain and 
the smoother the texture; the more salt, the coarser the 



364 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

grain and the more granular the texture. A frappe tex- 
ture can be obtained without the use of the freezer. 
which greatly reduces one's labor. 



To Freeze 

The mixture should be poured into a mold or any 
tight-fitting utensil, filled to overflowing, a piece of wrap- 
ping paper laid over the top. the cover fitted on closely, 
and the mold well packed in a mixture of ice and salt. If 
a very coarse texture is desired, use equal proportions of 
salt and ice : if a finer texture is wanted, use one part 
salt to two of ice : if a smooth cream texture, one of salt 
to three of ice. Allow the mixture to remain for three 
hours in the mold, and if the smallest amount of salt is 
used allow five or six hours. 

Frappes, being real thirst quenchers, are especially used 
to serve from the punch bowl at teas, receptions, and 
dances, and are superior to ice cream and sherbets for 
such occasions. For a dessert, a garnish of whipped 
cream and additions of pieces of fruit make an attractive 
modification. \\^hipped cream may be placed on top of 
the frappe after filling a mold two-thirds full and all 
frozen together successfully. There are some, however, 
who dislike to eat fruit that is stifi^y frozen. There are 
two classes of frappes : in one, the fruit finely cut or 
chopped is used with the juice, giving rise to the name 
granites : in the other, the fruit juice alone is used, di- 
luted as for an ice. 

Tea Frappe 

Boil one cupful of sugar and two cupfuls of water for 
fixve minutes to make a syrup. Add one pint of fairly 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 365 

strong tea, freshly made and cooled, then the grated rind 
and juice of three oranges, the juice of two lemons, and 
one can of grated pineapple. Freeze in a freezer if de- 
sired, or turn into a mold, cover the top with paraffin 
paper or buttered paper, place a cover on it tightly, and 
pack in a mixture of equal parts of salt and ice for three 
hours. Remove from the mold and garnish with slices 
of lemon or crushed mint leaves dusted with powdered 
sugar. 

• Coffee Frappe 

Make coffee the strength desired, strain it carefully and 
cool and sweeten to taste, then place it in a mold, and 
pack as for all frappes. One cupful of cream may be 
added before packing if desired. Garnish with whipped 
cream in serving. 



Chocolate or Coffee Frappe 

Make chocolate or cocoa as if for a beverage, add to 
four cupfuls one cupful sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla, 
and one cupful of strong clear cofifee. Freeze in a freezer 
or mold in ice and salt. Serve in tall sherbet glasses, and 
garnish with whipped cream. 



Fruit Juice Frappe 

Two cupfuls of fruit juice; one cupful of sugar, and 
two cupfuls of water to make a syrup; the juice of two 
lemons. Cool, mix, and fill a mold. Bury in equal pro- 
portions of salt and ice for three hours. If a finer tex- 



366 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

ture is desired, use one part of salt to two of ice and 
allow five or six hours for freezing. 



Orange and Grape Juice Frappe 

Add one cupful of sugar to two cupfuls of grape juice 
and one cupful of orange juice. Add one-fourth of a 
cupful of lemon juice. One cupful of cream may be 
added if desired. Fill the mold and pack with ice and 
salt. Garnish with whipped cream in. serving. 



Cider Frappe 

To four cupfuls of sweet cider add one-half of a cup- 
ful of sugar and the juice of one or two lemons. Freeze 
as other frappes, packing in salt and ice. 



Granites Made with a Syrup 

]\Iake a syrup of one cupful of sugar and two cupfuls 
of water. Cool and add two cupfuls of crushed or 
chopped fruit and juice, and the juice of one or two 
lemons. Pack as for frappes for five hours. 



Banana Granite 

Pour over four large ripe bananas, thinly sliced, the 
juice of one lemon and three-fourths of a cupful of 
sugar. Cover this and chill it for an hour. To this add 
the grated peel of the lemon and two cupfuls of ice 
water. Place it in a mold and pack it in equal propor- 
tions of ice and salt for five or six hours. Peaches or 
apricots may be substituted for bananas. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 367 

Bombe Glaces 

The regular bombe glace is a sherbet or an ice, lining a 
mold, the center being filled with a charlotte russe mix- 
ture. This involves several distinct processes, — the freez- 
ing of a sherbet, the making of the charlotte russe mix- 
ture and the use of gelatine, the packing in the mold, and 
the burying of the mold in salt and ice. A satisfactory 
bombe glace may be made in a much simpler way, the 
only difference being that the whipped cream forms a 
layer on the bottom of the mold instead of filling the 
center. Pour the mixture into the mold, filling it two- 
thirds full. Fill it to overflowing with sweetened and 
flavored whipped cream, and cover with paraffin or but- 
tered wrapping paper before placing the cover. Pack it 
in a mixture of ice and salt in proportions to produce a 
fine or coarse texture as desired. 

Orange Bombe Glace 

Fill a mold two-thirds full of orange juice to which 
the juice of one lemon and sugar as desired have been 
added. Fill the mold to overflowing with two cupfuls of 
heavy cream, whipped, sweetened with one-half of a 
cupful of powdered sugar, and flavored with one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla. Cover the top with paraffin paper 
or buttered wrapping paper, fit the cover on tightly, and 
bury in ice and salt mixture for five or six hours. One 
cupful of broken walnut meats added to the whipped 
cream is a delicious variation. 

Coffee Ice Cream 

Scald, in a double boiler, one pint of milk with one-half 
cupful of dry coffee. Strain onto three slightly beaten 



368 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

tgg?^, one cupful of sugar, and one-fourth teaspoonful of 
salt. Return to fire and cook until mixture coats the 
spoon. Add one quart of cream and freeze. Serve with 

Marshmallow Sauce 

In the upper part of a double boiler, put one-fourth 
pound of marshmallows. When melted, pour on a syrup 
made by boiling one cupful of sugar and one-fourth cup- 
ful of water ten minutes. Add one-half teaspoonful of 

vanilla and cool. 

Marmalade-Parfait 

Put half a cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a 
cupful of cold water in a saucepan and stir over a 
moderate heat until the sugar is dissolved; then let it 
cook slowly without stirring until a little dropped in cold 
water will form a ball rolled between the fingers. Re- 
move immediately from the fire, and pour slowly upon the 
stiflily whipped whites of three eggs, beating constantly 
until cold, and then fold in a pint of whipped cream and 
three tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade fbe careful 
not to let any liquid that may have drained from the 
cream go into the parfait). Pour at once into a water- 
tight mold and bury in ice and rock-salt for three hours 
before serving. 

Marshmallow Parfait 

]\Iake a syrup by boiling together in a granite 
saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar and one cupful 
of water until it spins a thread, then pour, while boiling 



JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 369 

hot, on the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, and con- 
tinue beating to a smooth, creamy mass, gradually whip- 
ping in one pint of whipped cream. Flavor to taste and 
put into the freezer. Turn the handle for four or five 
minutes, and when frozen to the consistency of mush, 
stir in one cupful of chopped nut meats, and cut up 
marshmallows. Freeze until firm and smooth, repacking 
in ice and salt for two or three hours before serving. 

Dolly Madison's Ice Cream 

One full pint of milk, one cupful of white sugar, four 
tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, two well-beaten eggs. Let 
the milk come to a boil. Beat the eggs, sugar, and flour 
together, stir these into the boiling milk, and let all cook 
for twenty minutes. When cold add one teacupful of 
sugar and one quart of rich sweet cream. Flavor with 
a vanilla bean, which should be put in the milk to boil. 
Put into a freezer and turn until hard. 

Dolly Madison's Frozen Custard 

Boil together one quart of milk and a small teacupful 
of sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and 
one teaspoonful of sifted flour. When cold add the 
beaten whites of the eggs and one pint of rich cream. 
Drop into the boiling milk a sprig of peach-tree leaves, 
which imparts a flavor resembling almond essence. Re- 
move the sprigs just before freezing. 

Mint Fruit Sherbet 

Place in a large mixing bowl a bunch of fresh mint, 
bruise the leaves, and pour upon them a quart of boiling 



370 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

hot sugar syrup; then add the juice of two lemons and 
the grated rind of one, the pulp of half a pineapple, and 
a tiny pinch of ground cinnamon ; cover the contents of 
the bowl closely and let stand until quite cold. Have in 
readiness a chilled freezer, into which is strained the 
fruit puree, and after adjusting the cover, freeze to the 
consistency of soft snow ; now pour in slowly the stiffly 
whipped whites of two eggs, the other half of the pine- 
apple flaked into tiny particles and a tablespoonful of 
grated cocoanut. Continue freezing until firm and 
smooth. Serve in small crystal or glass sherbet cups, 
covered with minced candied orange peel. 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 371 



372 MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 373 



374 MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 




JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 

N cake-making, correct measurements are par- 
ticularly necessary. Good judgment and ex- 
perience have taught some cooks to measure 
by sight, but the majority need accurate 
guides. Use standard measuring cups, prefer- 
ably glass, the regulation tea- and table- 
spoons, and a case-knife to level the measures. 
For the mixing and beating, a wooden spoon with slits is 
good. 

Only the best ingredients are worthy to be made into 
cake. Economize on the quantity, but never on the 
quality, of materials. Coarse granulated sugar is apt to 
give a coarse texture, so choose the fine granulated for 
cakes. Bread flour contains more of the sticky gluten 
than pastry flour, therefore cake made with it is never so 
light and tender. All baking-powder mixtures are better 
when the more easily raised pastry flour is used. But 
if bread flour must be used, measure two tablespoonfuls 
less for every cupful called for in a recipe. Never try to 
put a cake together until all the ingredients are measured 
and ready, the pans are properly buttered, and the fire 
is attended to. The fire must last without replenishing 
until the baking is completed. 

Sponge Cake 

Sponge cakes depend for their lightness upon the 
amount of air which is beaten into the mixture before 



375 



376 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

baking. The following is a safe general rule. It is often 
varied, and with good results, provided a larger amount 
of air is entangled in the batter. Never stir a sponge 
cake batter, as the air already entangled is thus allowed 
to escape. Beating, cutting, and folding are the correct 
strokes. 

Separate the eggs and beat the yolks until very thick 
and lemon-colored; beat the whites until stiff and dry. 
Add the sugar to the yolks and beat again, then add the 
flavoring. Beat in the whites and finally cut and fold 
in the flour sifted with the salt. For this stroke use a 
case-knife, adding the flour gradually and cutting it in. 
Never stir it. Three eggs, one-half cupful of sugar, 
one-half cupful of flour, a pinch of salt, one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, and grated rind from one-half a lemon 
are the correct proportions for a small loaf. 



Butter Cakes 

Butter cakes depend for their lightness upon the gas 
carbon dioxide obtained from baking powder or soda 
and cream of tartar. There are almost as many methods 
for putting together a batter as there are cakes. The 
following is not the only correct method, but any butter 
cake may be put together with success by just this 
method. It is a safe one to learn and use when only 
proportions are know^n. Measure the dry ingredients 
and mix and sift all save the sugar together. Measure 
the butter, and cream it with the sugar. Butter may be 
softened by leaving it in a warm room; measure by 
packing it solid and level into the cup or spoon. Beat 
with a wooden spoon until light and creamy. Add the 
yolks of the eggs or the whole eggs, beaten until light, 




Flag Cakes: Any Cake may he cut in Oblongs and iced in 
Plain White, then decorated with red Candies to 
form the Stripes and blue Candies to form 
the Stars of The Flag. 




Date Sandwiches: Lady Fingers with a Filling of Chopped 

Date and Nut Meats. For the Afternoon 

Tea Tray. 




Red and JVhite Currant and Raspberry 
Recipe on Page 2/4. 




Cherry Salad. 
Recipe on Page 2'/^. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 377 

the liquid, and then the flour, or the two latter may be 
added alternately, always beginning with the flour. Add 
the whites last if they alone are used or if they are beaten 
separately, in order not to lose the air beaten into them. 

Beating alone makes a cake fine-grained, but a cake 
may be light and tender, thoroughly eatable, with but 
little beating. Never stir a cake after the final beating, 
because, as with the sponge cake^ the air is thus allowed 
to escape. 

Fruit, when added immediately after the sugar, as in 
dark fruit cake, need not be floured. When this cannot 
be done on account of discoloring the batter, the fruit 
must be floured and beaten in last. Another good way 
is to fill the pans half full with plain batter, then add 
the floured fruit to remaining batter and put in pans. 

Butter the pans thoroughly, then dredge with flour, 
shaking all the superfluous flour from the pan. A narrow 
strip of buttered paper, reaching over the sides, may be 
used in a well-buttered pan. 

In filling, be especially careful to fill corners and sides, 
leaving a slight depression in the center. When baked 
the cake will then be flat on top. Many blame the oven 
or the batter for a " hilly " cake, when it is merely the 
way the batter was heaped in the pan. 



Mysteries of Baking 

Much, after ah, depends on the baking. Many a prom- 
ising cake has been ruined in the oven because there 
must be so much left to individual judgment. There 
are no hard-and-fast rules which can be laid down for 
cake baking. The stereotyped cooking-school rule is help- 
ful. It divides the time into quarters : in the first quarter, 



378 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

the batter rises ; in the second quarter it continues to rise 
and begins to brown ; in the third quarter it continues 
browning; in the fourth quarter it finishes baking and 
shrinks from pan. 

If the oven is too hot the back covers may be raised. 
It is safer to put a pan of cold water into the oven rather 
than to put a paper over the cake, as is commonly done 
to prevent burning. As soon as heated, refill with cold 
water, if necessary. 

Do not move a cake until it is risen to its full height ; 
after that there is no danger of its falling. Open the 
oven door as often as necessary, provided it be done 
carefully and slowly. It is the rush of cold air into the 
oven which causes the cake to fall. 

Fruit cake and pound cake are done when they are 
firm yet springy to the touch. With other cakes, the 
best test is the shrinking from the pans. Keep the oven 
heat uniform and do not attempt to use the oven for any- 
thing save the cakes. A slow oven causes a coarse- 
textured cake, while too hot an oven will make the cake 
crack in the center. 

Invert the cake, after baking, on a wire cake rest. If 
it sticks, loosen around edges with a knife and leave it 
inverted, to be helped out by its own weight. 

If boiled frosting is made, the cake may be hot or cold 
w^hen it is frosted, but never put an uncooked frosting on 
a cold cake. 



Shaker Nut Cake 

One-half cupful of butter, one cupful of light brown 
sugar, two beaten eggs, one-half cupful of w^ater. one 
teaspoonful of lemon, one and one-half cupfuls of flour 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 379 

sifted with one teaspoonful of baking powder, one cupful 
of hickory or butternut meats, coarsely chopped. Bake 
in three round, shallow pans, in a slow oven. Cool and 
put together with maple fondant (made with maple sugar 
like ordinary boiled frosting), ornamenting the top of 
the loaf with nut meats which have been sparingly 
sprinkled with salt and baked for ten minutes in a mod- 
erate oven. This renders nuts much more toothsome as 
well as digestible. 



Apple Sauce Cake 

One cupful of unsweetened apple sauce, one and one- 
half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of shortening, yolk 
of one tgg, one level teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-half 
teaspoonful of cloves, one-half level teaspoonful of soda, 
one level teaspoonful of baking powder, and two cupfuls 
of flour. Strain apple sauce through a sieve, add the 
soda, melted shortening, and flour sifted with baking 
powder and spices. Beat all together thoroughly and 
bake in two layers. Put together with a simple frosting. 



Crispettes 

Beat two eggs and stir into them a cupful of white and 
brown sugar, mixed, and four tablespoonfuls of sifted 
flour, then a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of vanilla. 
Beat thoroughly and add a cupful of English walnuts, 
chopped fine. Drop the dough by the teaspoonful into 
buttered pans, allowing three inches for cakes to spread. 
These are delicious for afternoon tea, or when served 
with fruit for dessert. 



38o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Peter Pans 

One-half cupful of equal parts of butter and lard, 
one-half cupful of dark brown sugar, one &gg, well beaten, 
one-half cupful of Porto Rico molasses, two-thirds cupful 
of slightly soured milk, one teaspoonful of powdered 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. In two 
cupfuls of sifted flour thoroughly blend one teaspoonful 
of soda, one-half cupful each of finely chopped raisins 
and nuts. Cream butter and lard with sugar; add the 
ingredients in the order given, beating all very thor- 
oughly; bake in well-buttered small patty tins or drop 
on well-buttered tins and bake in hot oven. Desirable 
for teas and luncheons. 

Hot Water Spice Cake 

Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of 
molasses, one teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, and 
lemon extract, two cupfuls of flour, one-half cupful of 
chopped raisins, one teaspoonful of soda, one cupful of 
boiling water. ]\Iix in order given, sifting cloves and 
cinnamon with the flour and adding the soda dissolved 
in the boiling water the last thing. Bake in layers in 
a moderate oven. Use the whites of the eggs for frosting. 

Hot Water Chocolate Cake 

Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful of sugar, 
yolk of one ^gg, two squares of chocolate cooked in one- 
half cupful of boiling water, one teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in one-half cupful of boiling water, one tea- 
spoonful of baking powder sifted with one and one-half 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 381 

cupfuls of flour, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix 
in order given and bake in a square loaf in a moderate 
oven for thirty minutes. Cover with boiled frosting, 
using the white of the ^gg left from the cake for the 
frosting. It is rather unusual to have both soda and 
baking powder as called for in this recipe, but it is im- 
possible to get light spongy cake if a larger amount of 
one alone is used. Follow the directions exactly and 
you will be surprised at the delicious cake which is the 
result. 

Maple Drop Cakes 

Two cupfuls of maple syrup, one-half cupful of cream 
or milk, two eggs, one-half cupful of melted butter, three 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and flour enough to make 
a soft batter. Bake in gem pans. 



Oatmeal Drops 

One cupful each of sugar and butter, creamed together, 
two eggs, two cupfuls each of flour and rolled oats, five 
tablespoonfuls of milk^ one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one- 
half teaspoonful each of salt and soda sifted with the 
flour, one cupful each of raisins and English walnuts 
finely chopped. Mix nuts and raisins before putting 
through the chopper. Drop the dough by half-teaspoons, 
a couple of inches apart, on inverted pans or rimless tin 
sheets and bake in a moderate oven. 



Rich Short Bread 

Rub to a cream three-fourths of a pound of butter, add 
one-half cupful of sugar, the beaten yolks of four eggs. 



382 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

and one pound of flour. Stir in the peel of one lemon 
and one-half cupful of blanched almonds, both finely 
chopped. Knead this till it is a smooth dough and roll 
out on a floured board to the thickness of one-fourth of 
an inch or more. Cut into squares. Have ready a plate 
of linely chopped candied peel, nuts, shredded citron, and 
a little sugar. Into this lay one side of each square 
before putting them in the pan to bake. The mixture 
will adhere to the cakes more satisfactorily than when 
sprinkled on. 



Scotch Cookies 

Two and one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, two and one- 
half cupfuls of flour (leaving out one-half cupful for 
rolling), one cupful of sugar, two eggs, three tablespoon- 
fuls of milk, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of soda, 
one-half cupful of butter, one-third cupful of beef drip- 
pings, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of 
spices — cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove mixed. Cream 
shortening and sugar; add eggs, well beaten, and the 
milk in which the soda has been dissolved. ]\Iix the 
remaining ingredients, then stir all together. Set aside 
to get cold before rolling thin. All cookies containing 
rolled oats need a sharp cutter. This rule makes a large 
quantit}'. 



Fruit Bars 

]\Iix two and one-half cupfuls of flour, scant two and 
one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, one cupful each of butter 
and brown sugar, one-half cupful of sour milk, and one 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 383 

teaspoonful of soda. Flour the board generously, roll 
thin, and cut with a narrow, oblong cutter. Stone and 
put through a chopper one and one-half pounds of dates, 
roll this mass also into a thin sheet, and cut with same 
cutter. Put a layer of date paste between every two of 
the cooky dough, sandwich fashion, and bake in a hot 
oven. When cold pack edgewise in a jar — and hide the 
jar. Ordinary cooky dough may be manipulated suc- 
cessfully, in a similar way. Cut out in circles and use 
jelly, chopped figs and pecans, chopped candied fruits; 
in fact, any appetizing mixture of this sort, for a filling. 
Lay a teaspoonful of " sweetmeats " in the center of a 
round ; wet edges with milk before covering with a second 
circle; press edges together and bake quickly. 

Gingersnaps 

If gingersnap dough is mixed at night and stands in 
a cool place till morning, it can be handled far more 
easily and with less flour. It makes these wafers de- 
licious to leave out the ground ginger and add preserved 
ginger finely chopped instead. This simple recipe is ex- 
cellent : One cupful of best Porto Rico molasses — scald 
and cool — one-half cupful of softened butter, one-half 
teaspoonful each of soda and salt, one teaspoonful of 
yellow ginger and flour to roll very thin. Cut into rounds 
and bake in a moderate oven. Molasses mixtures burn 
easily. 

Marshmallow Cake 

Beat one-half cupful of butter to a cream, add one and 
one-half cupfuls of sugar gradually, and beat until 



384 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

creamy. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk with 
two cupfuls of flour into which have been sifted three 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat the whites of live 
eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
of salt. Fold gently into the batter, and when well 
mixed add one-half of a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake in 
shalloAv. round tins and when cool fill with marshmallow 
filling made as follows : 

Marshmallow Filling 

Add two cupfuls of sugar to one-half cupful of milk. 
heat slowly to boiling point, and boil five minutes. Break 
one-half a pound of marshmallows into pieces and melt 
in the double boiler. Add four tablespoonfuls of hot 
water and cook until the mixture is smooth. Add the 
milk syrup to this, stirring steadily. Take from the fire 
and beat until cool and thick enough to spread. Add 
one-half teaspoonful of vanilla, and then spread between 
the cake. This may be used for the top as well, or an 
extra frosting made with one cupful of fondant, the 
white of an &gg, beaten until stitt". and one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of vanilla. IVIelt the fondant, add the white of 
the tgg, and stir over the fire for a couple of minutes. 
Remove and beat until cool and stiff enough to spread. 
Flavor with vanilla and lemon juice. 

Chocolate Gingerbread 

Place in a mixing bowl half a cupful of molasses, one 
tablespoonful each of melted lard and butter, half a cupful 
of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, 
a quarter of a teaspoonful each of grated nutmeg and 

ground ginger, and a heaping tablespoonful of grated 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 385 

sweet chocolate mixed to a paste with a Httle warm 
water ; blend the ingredients thoroughly and then stir 
in one teaspoonful of baking soda, dissolved in a small 
cupful of sour cream and sufficient sifted flour to form 
a cake batter. Pour into an oblong greased cake pan 
and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven, 
covering when cold with a chocolate frosting. 

Buttermilk Gingerbread 

One large cupful of molasses, one well-beaten ^gg, two- 
thirds cupful of buttermilk; fill the cup up with any 
shortening, two teaspoonfuls of soda, a pinch of salt, one 
tablespoonful of ginger, and flour enough to make a 
pouring batter. 

Devil's Food Pudding 

Mix together one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of 
butter, and one-third of a cake of chocolate (melted) ; 
then add two well-beaten eggs, half a cupful of sour 
milk, one teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little 
hot water, and about two cupfuls of sifted flour ; beat 
until very light, flavoring with half a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract, and bake in layer greased cake pans, 
allowing about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 

Mocha Cake 

One cupful of sugar, one cupful of flour, one tea- 
spoonful of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 
one large tablespoonful of melted butter, one-half cupful 
of boiling milk, two eggs, not beaten. Sift the flour, 
sugar, cream of tartar, and soda together twice. Add the 



386 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

butter, then break in the eggs, beat. Add the milk last. 
Beat thoroughly. Bake in a moderate oven twenty 
minutes. 

Mocha Frosting 

One cupful of powdered sugar, a small piece of butter, 
two tablespoonfuls of coffee, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. 
Cream the butter and sugar and add the cocoa, then 
coffee and vanilla. Add more sugar, if necessary. 
Spread with a knife dipped in hot water. 

Mary's Cake 

One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of 
butter, one cupful of tepid water, two and one-half cup- 
fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of almond extract, two 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of 
salt. Whites of four eggs. Bake in layers, in a quick 
oven. 

Filling for Mary's Cake 

One cupful of sour cream, one cupful of sugar, boil, 
then beat in yolks of four eggs and one cupful of chopped 
nuts, with one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Buttermilk Cake 

Two cupfuls of coffee C sugar, one cupful of butter, 
two cupfuls of buttermilk, two level teaspoonfuls of soda, 
one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful 
each of cloves and nutmeg, one cupful each of seeded 
raisins and currants, and flour to make a not too stiff 
batter. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 387 

Feather Cakes 

Cream a quarter of a cupful of butter, gradually add 
one cupful of sugar, yolks of two eggs, half a cupful of 
milk, and one and one-half cupfuls of flour, mixed and 
sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, fold into 
the stifily beaten whites of two eggs, and add a quarter of 
a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake forty minutes in a mod- 
erate oven. Cover with white frosting. 

Date Cookies 

Have ready a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, 
half a teaspoonful of baking powder, two cupfuls of 
flour, the yolk of an ^gg, a cupful of chopped dates, 
and enough milk to moisten. Cream the butter and sugar 
and add the tgg yolk beaten with a little milk. Add the 
dates and the mixture of moist ingredients. Add more 
milk if the dough is too stiff to roll out. Cut out thin 
cookies and bake. As this rule makes as many as sixty 
cookies, the dough for variety's sake may be divided into 
several parts and each part flavored in a dififerent fashion, 
chopped dates being used in only one portion. Another 
may be flavored with orange, a third with lemon, and a 
fourth with chocolate. Cocoanut may be used in the 
fifth. Orange rind and cocoanut together will make 
delicious cookies. 

Black Rocks 

One and a half cupfuls of brown sugar, a scant cupful 
of shortening, three eggs, half a teaspoonful of ground 
cinnamon, three-fourths of a cupful of raisins cut in- 
small pieces, half a cupful of chopped walnut meats, one 



388 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

teaspoonful of vanilla, five tablespoonfuls of hot water, 
one teaspoonful of soda, and one teaspoonful of baking 
powder stirred into three cupfuls of flour. Beat well and 
drop from a spoon onto buttered pans. Bake in a mod- 
erate oven. 

Chocolate Crisps 

Turn into a mixing bowl three tablespoonfuls of grated 
chocolate, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, a pinch each 
of ground cinnamon and nutmeg, half a cupful of brown 
sugar, and half a cupful of mixed shortening and butter 
(melted). Mix these ingredients thoroughly and then 
add half a cupful of thick sour cream in which a scant 
teaspoonful of baking soda has been dissolved, and suf- 
ficient sifted pastry flour to form a cooky dough ; roll 
out on the bread board into a very thin sheet and with 
a cutter stamp into thin wafers ; dust these lightly with 
grated sweet chocolate and bake in a quick oven for about 
seven minutes. 

Butter Cakes 

One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of brown sugar, 
three cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of ground cin- 
namon, and one ^gg. Cream butter and sugar, add cin- 
namon and tgg, add a little flour at a time, knead until 
well mixed, roll out on a cake board one-quarter of an 
inch thick, cut with cake cutter. Bake in a hot oven 
until brown. These are delicious with afternoon tea. 

Buttermilk Cookies 

Cream two cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of butter, 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 389 

add one cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of soda, 
spices or flavoring to taste, and flour sufficient to roll. 



Lace Cakes 

Mix thoroughly together one tablespoonful of melted 
butter, one cupful of granulated sugar, two well-beaten 
eggs, one teaspoonful of vanilla, a little grated nutmeg, 
and two and a half cupfuls of oatmeal into which have 
been stirred two and a half teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. Have the batter quite stiff and drop by the 
teaspoonful on a buttered baking sheet, having them 
about an inch apart. Bake in a moderate oven until 
crisp and brown on the edges. 

Coffee Squares 

Cream one-half cupful of sugar with the same quantity 
of butter, adding one well-beaten ^gg, half a cupful of 
strained black coffee, a pinch of salt, half a cupful of 
milk, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted with 
two cupfuls of flour ; beat thoroughly and then stir in 
half a cupful of floured currants. Pour into a well- 
buttered square pan, and after sprinkling with cinnamon 
and powdered sugar bake in a moderate oven for three- 
quarters of an hour. Cut when cold into small squares. 

Orange Puffs with Orange Sauce 

Make a cake mixture, using half a cupful of butter, 
a cupful of sugar, two eggs, three-fourths of a cupful 
of milk, two cupfuls of flour, four teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder, and half a teaspoonful of orange extract. 
Bake in muffin pans and serve hot with orange sauce, 



390 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Orange Sauce 

Mix half a cupful of sugar with one and a half table- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
of salt. Add a cupful of boiling water and boil five 
minutes. Add the grated rind and juice of two oranges 
and two tablespoonfuls of butter. 

Choux Pastry 

Put four tablespoons of butter into a saucepan, add 
a cupful of water, bring to boiling point, add quickly two 
cupfuls of sifted flour and a pinch of salt, stir well with 
a wooden spoon until the mixture leaves the sides of the 
pan, remove from the fire, allow to cool, but not become 
cold, add four eggs, beating each one thoroughly in. 
Put away in a cool place for one hour. Put into a 
forcing bag with a plain tube and force on to a baking 
tin into small rounds, brush over with beaten ^gg, and 
bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. When cold split 
them open on one side and fill them with orange filling. 
Sprinkle powdered sugar on the top. For the orange 
filling, melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, 
add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs, 
grated rind, and strained juice of one orange, and stir 
over the fire till the mixture thickens, but do not allow 
it to boil. Then add one dessertspoonful of cake crumbs 
and one teaspoonful of lemon juice; when cold, the mix- 
ture is ready for use. 

Bangor Brownies 

Cream one-half cupful of butter with one cupful of 
sugar, add three squares of chocolate (melted), two eggs 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 391 

slightly beaten, one cup of chopped walnuts, and one-half 
cupful of sifted flour. Bake in a thin layer, on a cooky 
sheet, for ten minutes in a moderate oven. When done, 
cut in strips or squares. 



Acorn Cakes 

Cream half a cupful of butter with one and three- 
quarter cupfuls of sugar, add two well-beaten eggs, half 
a cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of baking soda, 
one-third cupful of melted chocolate, three cupfuls of 
sifted flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, half a 
cupful of chopped nut meats, one teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract, and two-thirds cupful of water. Mix and pour 
into a shallow, buttered cake tin, and bake in a moderate 
oven for three-quarters of an hour. Cool and cut into 
squares. Cover with white frosting and decorate with 
candy acorns. 

Valentine Cakes 

Cream half a cupful of butter with two cupfuls of 
sugar and add one cupful of sweet milk, alternately with 
two cupfuls of flour mixed and sifted with two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder. Fold in the well-beaten whites 
of four eggs and flavor with vanilla. Bake in a square 
pan. When cool cut into hearts, using a heart cutter, 
cover with a chocolate icing over which sprinkle cocoa- 
nut. For the icing, place one cupful and a half of sugar 
with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a third of a cake 
of chocolate in a saucepan and boil until it will rope when 
poured from the spoon. Pour this over the beaten whites 
of two eggs. Beat until it thickens. 



392 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

Sugar Cookies 

Cream two cupfuls of sugar with one cupful of butter, 
or other shortening, add two well-beaten eggs, and beat 
till very light. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk 
and one cupful of flour sifted with one-half teaspoonful 
of salt and one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. Then add enough more flour to make a dough 
stiff enough to roll out. Cut with a biscuit cutter, 
sprinkle with granulated sugar^ and bake in a quick oven. 
They may be flavored with lemon, or vanilla if preferred. 



Soft Molasses Cookies 

One cupful of butter^ one cupful of brown sugar, one 
cupful of molasses, brown Porto Rico, one cupful of 
sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one teaspoonful of 
ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, two large teaspoon- 
fuls of vinegar. Make very soft with flour and bake in 
a moderate oven. They burn very easily. 



Chocolate Nut Wafers 

Mix in the order given : one cupful of sugar, two 
squares melted chocolate, one-half cupful melted butter, 
yolks and whites of two eggs beaten separately and then 
together, one-half cupful flour. Spread very thinly over 
cooky sheet and sprinkle on it one cup of coarsely 
chopped nut meats. Bake not too brown. Cut in oblongs 
and remove. This makes a large quantity. They are 
popular for teas or with ice cream or frappe. 



JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 393 

Chocolate Cake 

Cream one tablespoonful of butter with one cupful of 
sugar, and add the beaten yolk of one egg. Add one- 
half cupful of milk and three-quarters of a cupful of 
sifted flour. Add one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved 
in a little water and then two squares of melted chocolate, 
one teaspoonful of vanilla, and another half-cupful of 
milk; finally add three-quarters of a cupful of. flour sifted 
with one-half teaspoonful of baking powder and a half- 
teaspoonful of salt. Beat together thoroughly. The 
mixture will be thinner than the average cake batter. 
Bake in a moderate oven. Frost while hot. 



Graham Torte 

Separate five eggs ; beat the yolks until thick and yel- 
low, then add two level cupfuls of granulated sugar and 
cream together. Grind enough graham crackers in the 
food chopper to make one and one-half cupfuls. Stir into 
this one teaspoonful of baking powder and one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt. Add to the sugar and ^gg mixture 
with one cupful of ground nutmeats. Finally, cut in the 
whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in two layer 
cake pans. Make the filling as follows : Heat one cupful 
of milk with one cupful of sugar in a double boiler, add 
one tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a very little cold 
milk. Stir while it thickens, then cook fifteen minutes; 
pour over a beaten ^gg, return to the double boiler for 
a moment's cooking. Then add one teaspoonful vanilla, 
and set away to cool. Serve the torte with this filling 
and with whipped cream on top. 



394 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 395 



396 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 



MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 397 



398 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 




JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 

HEN practically all coffees were sold as either 
Java or Java and Mocha, the housekeeper 
was perfectly satisfied. She knew exactly 
what it was she wanted, and expected to get 
it at whatever price suited her fancy. When 
she objected to paying thirty-five to forty 
cents the pound there was not the slightest 
difficulty in accommodating her, and even at less than 
twenty cents, pound packages could be obtained, branded 
in large type with the magic words, " Old Government 
Java and Mocha Coffee." 

A great change in the methods of preparing and label- 
ing foods has taken place within the last few years due 
to the enactment of the Food and Drugs Act of June 
30th, 1906. A multitude of masqueraders have been 
unmasked, and many thousands of packages must now 
stand forth for what they really are. The housekeeper 
is all at sea. The coffee does not taste the same as it 
used to. Great has been the fall, far-reaching the frauds 
that have been stopped. Therefore, it is not strange to 
find the housekeeper slow to look with favor on the 
package commodity that for many years has been grossly 
misrepresented. 

Briefly, a few of the coffees that were offered under a 
Java and Mocha label and that found favor so long as 
the price was low and they made a good appearance, were 
as follows : Santos coffee from Brazil was the worst 
offender, for the reason that about three times more 



399 



400 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

coffee is grown there than is grown in all the other 
coffee-producing countries put together, and naturally 
over seventy-five per cent, of our breakfast beverage 
is that particular growth. Santos coffees were packed 
straight or in combination with small amounts of other 
coffees as Java, or Java and Mocha, and sold at the 
lowest possible figures. When a slightly better value 
was desired, a percentage of Maracaibo was used with 
Santos or with the smaller bean Bourbon-Santos, this 
latter combination more nearly resembling the genuine 
Java and Mocha in appearance. 

Other packers claimed that a Bucaramanga was not 
only similar in style to a Sumatra coffee, then known as 
Java, but of the same character in the cup. Some deal- 
ers have even contended that it was impossible to detect 
any difference. There were therefore combinations of 
Bucaramanga and small bean Bourbon-Santos sold as 
Java and Mocha. 

A degree higher in cup quality, as well as in price, are 
combinations of Bogota and Bourbon-Santos. Eliminat- 
ing the packages containing Brazil coffee only, and no 
other combination of coffees has had so wide a distribu- 
tion as Java and Mocha. An acid Bourbon-Santos is 
the nearest approach in the cup to Mocha of any coffee 
grown, and it is supposed to have been cultivated in the 
first instance from Mocha seed. In appearance it is far 
superior to the irregular quakerish Mocha, though 
usually equally inferior in the cup. This is not always 
the case, as there are winey Bourbon coffees that out- 
drink some of the world-famed coffees from Arabia, 
although such coffees are rare. 

Bogota (Colombian coffee) found a market as Java, or, 
in connection with Bourbon-Santos, as Java and Mocha, 
for three reasons : First, the price was less than de- 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 401 

manded for coffees from the Dutch East Indies. Sec- 
ond, the roast was very much handsomer than that of 
coffees from Java or Sumatra, excepting certain washed 
types. Third, on account of the real merit there is in 
this growth of coffee. 

It should be noted that some of the finest coffees 
grown, equaling if not exceeding the coffees of the 
Dutch East Indies, are produced in Colombia (Bogota), 
Guatemala, and in Mexico. 

It has been frequently stated that the housekeeper 
was more or less responsible for the misbranding of 
coffee. There is some truth in the statement, for the 
consumer has insisted upon obtaining Java and Mocha 
at whatever price it was their purpose to pay. How- 
ever that may be, it also is quite true that the buyer for 
the most part received fair value for the amount paid. 
Whose ever the fault, the fact remains that under the 
proper labels many brands are for the most part de- 
cidedly unsatisfactory in the cup. The housekeeper is 
beginning to realize that she has been purchasing a 
much lower grade of goods than she supposed. In other 
words, the veneer is off, the true material stands re- 
vealed, and she doesn't like it because it is not what she 
supposed it to be. 

Naturally the questions arise, What is a good coffee? 
How is the purchaser to know what to ask for, and is it 
possible to get Java and Mocha? In this discussion we 
must eliminate coffees bought for a price, or those bought 
for a premium. Neither of these propositions results in 
satisfactory brands of coffees. 

Rio coffee is harsh and unpleasant in taste, and de- 
mand for it is rapidly decreasing. Santos coffees with 
even a touch of the harsh Rio tang are to be avoided, 
and although smooth drinking Santos coffees have a 



402 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

place, they are rather lacking in character and snap. A 
combination of Venezuelan coffee known as Maracaibo 
with Santos is the next step toward desirable cup re- 
sults. This coffee, however, is inclined to be irregular 
in roast and does not produce uniform results in the 
cup, as it is inclined to turn bitter if permitted to stand 
even a short time. 

Maracaibo coffees, as a rule, are heavier in the cup 
than Santos, more decided in character, but more uncer- 
tain in cup results. They are also inclined to be irregular 
roasters. 

Above this we reach the coffee of Colombia known as 
Bogota. Many satisfactory blends are combinations of 
Bogota and Bourbon-Santos in varying proportions. 
There is nothing in a moderate price coffee that will 
give better results than a blend composed of two parts 
full-bodied Bogota and one part acid Bourbon-Santos. 
Properly made a smooth palatable liquor results. 
Bogota coffee develops into a large handsome bean, a 
uniform roaster, full of flavor, body, and aroma. The 
stripe down the center of the bean is pronounced and 
at one end this stripe is inclined to make a slight twist 
or turn. It is a very satisfactory coffee to use alone, 
and if the housewife can purchase a good Bogota it is 
always possible for her to prepare a good cup of 
coffee. 

These are the growths of really fine coffees. There 
are of course, Segundas, or second grades, many of 
which drink well, but we are considering only the fancy 
types. Blends composed of Bogota together with a 
Guatemalan, or a Mexican coffee or both, produce some 
of the highest types obtainable. A Guatemala has a 
lighter body, is slightly smoother in appearance than a 
Bogota and has a straight stripe inclined to open some- 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 403 

what wider. It is full of aroma and gives forth a spicy 
fragrance that is most delightful. 

The Mexican bean is usually smaller, slightly more 
rounded, and roasts with a more open stripe than either 
of the two coffees just mentioned. It has a heavy acid 
character which blends particularly well with a smooth 
Bogota, while the Guatemala adds the delicate aroma 
peculiar in this coffee. 

As against coffees from the Dutch East Indies it is 
merely a matter of preference. Coffee drinkers that are 
looking for the musty character of the Old Crop Sumatra 
coffee find this character only in such coffees. It is 
the coffee now known as Interior Padang grown in 
Sumatra which was formerly the Old Government Java. 
The coffee is an irregular roaster due to the method of 
curing and ageing. All coffees improve by being held in 
the warehouse, but no coffees are now mellowed by being 
stored for varying periods of time as was formerly the 
case with the coffees controlled by the Dutch Govern- 
ment. In addition to this, the long voyage under a 
tropical sun around the Horn in sailing vessels further 
mellowed and colored the coffee. These coffees are 
no longer held, as used to be the case, and it is probable 
that the last sailing vessel from the Dutch East Indies 
to bring in a cargo of coffee arrived in May, 1913. The 
coffees in future will come forward in the faster steam 
vessels and the benefit of the long voyage will be lost. 

The coffee actually grown on the island of Java and 
now sold as genuine Java is a large smooth roasting bean 
with a straight regular stripe. The cup character is 
quite different from the Padang coffees, but it is very 
much smoother and has an individual quality easily 
detectable. . 

The Mocha coffee of Arabia is a small irregular bean, 



404 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

one of the poorest roasting coffees grown, containing a 
considerable quantity of broken and misshapen berries. 
In the cup its merit is at once apparent, as it has a pe- 
cuhar winey acid reproduced in no other coffee. A 
straight Arabian Mocha made full strength furnishes a 
most excellent after-dinner coffee. 

There are innumerable combinations that may be 
made up by using coffee from the Dutch East Indies 
together with the three superior growths of the western 
hemisphere. It is quite apparent that such combinations 
are necessary in order to satisfy the different demands 
of the various consumers. 

If you would have the best flavored coffee, buy it in 
the bean and grind it fresh each time it is to be made. 
If a method of making coffee is selected which demands 
pulverized coffee, the most satisfactory mill is a hand- 
driven miniature of the type used in the shops, run by 
hand or motor power. The cheaper mills are satisfactory 
when fine granular coffee is desired ; they can be ad- 
justed from " very fine " to " coarse " and can be ob- 
tained at practically all prices. 

Actual tests in coffee making show a remarkable in- 
crease in strength, the more finely ground is the coffee. 
Each granule of ground coffee consists of minute com- 
partments which are broken into more and more as the 
berry is more finely ground. The coarser the grind the 
less the yield. The finer the grind the quicker and 
stronger the yield. 

No less important is the fresh grinding, for coffee, even 
in the tightest of containers, depreciates in flavor very 
fast. Coffee pulverized fresh each day for four days 
was tested blind at the expiration of that time. Each 
day's grinding was readily identified, some flavor and 
aroma being lost with each day's standing. So notice- 



JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 405 

able is this, that when fresh ground coffee is used, the 
familiar " spoonful to the pot " may be omitted with no 
loss in strength. 

There are four common methods of making coffee : 
boiling, steeping, percolating, and filtering. 

To boil coffee is practically to spoil coffee, for in the 
process the coarse fibrous shell is broken down and 
adds its crude flavor to the delicate flavor oils of the 
coffee bean. Moreover, the liquid must be '' cleared " 
with eggs, adding a foreign matter which is no improve- 
ment in flavor. Finally this method yields a relatively 
high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin, and it 
is the latter especially that dietitians now question as 
possibly harmful to certain individuals. 

When coffee is '' steeped," it is placed in cold water, 
brought quickly to a boil, then removed and settled with 
a dash of cold water. As in the boiled coffee the coffee 
is used ground *' medium fine." Practically the same 
criticisms may be made to this method : Perfectly clear 
coffee is difficult to obtain ; the full aromatic flavor is 
prevented, because other elements injurious to flavor 
are extracted ; and this method too yields a high per 
cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin. 

Percolating coffee results in a practically clear bever- 
age. Many users of percolators think that the boiling of 
the water forces it to rise through the tube. Instead, it 
is the force of condensation, and the temperature ranges 
between 130 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahren- 
heit. The water does not boil at all. Percolating coffee 
produces clear coffee and a better flavor to many palates 
than the previous methods, but this method also shows 
a high per cent, of caffeine and coffee-tannin. Thus it 
seems to make little difference in regard to the tempera- 
ture of the water as to the extraction of these com- 



4o6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK 

pounds. Instead, it is the length of time the coffee is 
in contact with the water. The quicker the coffee is 
made, then, the less caffeine and coffee-tannin will be 
present. 

For this reason especially many will be interested in 
the fourth method : filtering the coffee. Filtered coffee 
is made so rapidly that only small per cents of caffeine 
and coffee-tannin are present in the finished beverage, 
while the flavor and aroma are excellent. In this method 
only finely pulverized or powdered coffee can be used 
successfully. In its simplest form fresh boiling water is 
poured through the coffee held in a cloth strainer, above 
a tea cup. 

For some reason, certain metals have an effect on 
coffee flavor, so the use of china or glass is advisable. 

A recipe sanctioned by Dr. Wiley reads as follows : 



How to Make Coffee 

The best method of brewing coffee, as determined by 
the Better Coffee-Making Committee of the National 
Association of Coffee Roasters, after thorough experi- 
ment, and correspondence with experts, including Dr. 
Harvey W. Wiley : 

Fill a kettle with fresh cold water and put it on to 
boil. Place over an open china teapot, kept just for 
coffee (as metal is deleterious), a clean, wet, old linen 
napkin, or a new square of unbleached muslin, letting it 
sag toward the center. Put into the depression four 
heaping tablespoonfuls (for four cups of coffee) of 
finely pulverized coffee. This fine pulverization is very 
important. Ordinary ground coffee will not do at all, 
and gives weak infusions. 



JUST HOW rO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 407 

When the water in the kettle is boiHng fiercely, pour 
it through the coffee slowly until four cupfuls have gone 
through, or a trifle more, for four cupfuls of coffee. 

Cover and take at once to table. 

Wash the cloth immediately after breakfast and keep 
it in a jar of cold water, never permitting it to get dry, 
and freshening the water every day. Keeping the cloth 
sweet is absolutely essential. Every effort should be 
made to this end. The least souring ruins the coffee. 

Follow these directions strictly, paying special atten- 
tion to having the coffee very fine, like flour, and the 
water boiling, and you will have excellent coffee even 
though you buy cheap blends. 



4o8 MORE WAYS OF MAKING COFFEE 



COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES 



COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES 



TITLE PAGE 

Ambrosia 251 

Angel Custard 257 

Apple Custard 256 

Apples, Baked, with Marsh- 
mallow 252 

Apples, Stuffed for Roast 

Pork 230 

Apricot Dumplings 247 

Artichokes, Boiled Jerusa- 
lem 327 

Asparagus, Boiled 317 

Banana Compote 258 

Barberry Preserve 306 

" Sauce 306 

Beans, Red Kidney, with 
Cheese in Chafing Dish. . 322 

Beans, String 319 

Beef, Braised with Oysters 207 

" , Casserole of 210 

" Loaf — Mexican Sauce 217 

" Olives 219 

" , Parker House Roast 215 
" Tongue en Casserole 212 
Beefsteak, Just How to 

Broil 202 

Beefsteak, Rolled 216 

Beet Chowder 353 

Biscuit, Buttermilk 87 

" , Buttermilk Spoon. 87 

" , Sour Cream 88 

" , Swedish 78 

Black Rocks 387 

Bobtee 218 

Bombe Glace 367 

Bouillon, Jellied 113 

, Royal 113 

Bread 70 

" , Bishop's 86 

" , Custard Corn 86 



TITLE PAGE 

Bread, Hominy Spoon... 87 
" , Just How to Make. 75 

" , Nut 85 

" , Pennsylvania Dutch 80 

Puffs 80 

Breakfast Breads, Just How 

to Make Hot 81 

Breakfast, What to Serve 

for 12 

Brioche Cakes 89 

Brown Betty 244 

Brownies, Bangor 390 

Buckwheat Cakes 84 

90 

Bunuelos 245 

Cabbage, Hors d'Oeuvre. . 329 

Cake, Apple Sauce 379 

" , Buttermilk 386 

" , Chocolate 393 

" , Hot Water Chocolate 380 
" , Hot Water Spice.... 380 
" , Just How to Make. . 375 

" , Marshmallow 383 

" , Mary's 386 

" , Mocha 38s 

" , Shaker 378 

" , Sponge 375 

Cakes, Acorn 391 

" , Butter Z7^ 

" , " 388 

" , Feather 387 

" , Lace 389 

" , Maple Drop 381 

" , Valentine 391 

Calves' Hearts 212 

Cape Cod Creamed Fish 

and Potatoes 165 

Carrots, Mashed 323 

" , Mint-Glazed Z^^ 



411 



412 



INDEX 



TITLE PAGE 

Celery, Baked, with Cheese 324 

" , Fried 327 

Cheese Cream, with Rice. . 105 

Custard 138 

" Timbales 137 

Chestnut Stuffing 177 

Chicken a la King (Wal- 
dorf) 175 

Chicken, Curried 180 

Cutlets 180 

" , Fried 181 

" Rechauffe 179 

" , Roman 180 

" , Spanish Fricassee 178 

Chocolate Crisps 388 

Chowder, New England 

Fish 159 

Citron, Dried, for cakes, 
mincemeat and confec- 
tions 301 

Citron-Melon, Baked, or 

Sauce 302 

Citron-Melon Chips 303 

" " Preserved . . 302 

Cocoanut Blancmange , . . 257 

Codfish, Creamed 157 

" , Creamed Salt .... 165 

" , Mexican 154 

Puff 156 

" , Salpicon of 156 

Coffee Cakes 79 

" , Just How to Make 406 
Coffee, Just How to Buy 

and Make 399 

Coffee Souffle 252 

" Squares 389 

Cookies, Buttermilk ...... 388 

" , Date 387 

" , Scotch 382 

" , Soft Molasses . . . 392 

" , Sugar 392 

Corn Cakes to Serve with 

Meat 336 

Corn Fritters, Belgian .... 331 
Crab Meat, Flaked, in the 

Chafing Dish 162 

Crab Rabbit 162 

Crabs and Shrimps, Span- 
ish Style 162 



TITLE PAGE 

Cranberry Relish 231 

Cream Scones 90 

Crispettes . . , 379 

Croquettes, Celery 330 

, Shad Roe 165 

Cucumber Catsup (Un- 
cooked) 351 

Currants, Spiced 352 

Dandelions with Bacon. . . . 268 

Desserts 237 

Desserts, Just How to 

Make 239 

Devil's Food Pudding .... 385 
Dinner, What to Serve for 13 

Dressing, Chiffonade 276 

" , Chili 276 

" , Mayonnaise .... 275 
" , Roquefort Cheese 277 

Egg, An English 136 

" , A New Deviled 131 

Eggplant, Stuffed 335 

Eggs .^ 123 

" a la Golden Rod. . . . 136 
" and Cheese Cream.. 133 

" au Gratin 135 

" , Baked, with Cheese. 135 

" , Belmont 136 

" , Bollerino 131 

Eggs, Bread, and Bacon in 
Chafing Dish 134 

Eggs, Crisfield, Scrambled. 134 

Eggs, Deviled, a la Fro- 
mage 131 

Eggs, Ham and Spanish.. . 132 

" , Hamburg 132 

" in Baked Potatoes.. 139 
" , Just How to Cook. . 128 
** , How to Preserve. 125 
" , Piquant Scrambled.. 135 

Eggs, Poached, in Milk or 
Cream 133 

Eggs, Poached, with 
Creamed Celery 132 

Eggs, Scotch 134 

Eggs, Whole, with Smoked 
Beef 133 

EngHsh Cottage Pie 218 



INDEX 



413 



TITLE PAGE 

Escallop of Green Corn... 334 

Filling for Mary's Cake. . . 386 
Fish 145 

" , Just How to Cook. . . 147 

" , Sauted 153 

" Stew 159 

Frappe, Chocolate or Coffee 365 

" , Cider 366 

" , Coffee 365 

" , Fruit Juice 365 

Frappe, Orange and Grape 

Juice 366 

Frappe, Tea 364 

Frappes 363 

Frozen Custard, Dolly 

Madison's 369 

Frozen Desserts, Just How 

to Make 359 

Fruit Bars 382 

Fruit Preserves CApples, 

Pears, and Plums) 309 

Gems, Cream Rye 88 

German Luncheon Dish . . . 229 

Gingerbread, Buttermilk . . 385 

" , Chocolate . . . 384 

Gingersnaps 383 

Good Cooking 3 

Goose, Roast 179 

Gooseberries, Honeyed . . . 308 

Gooseberry Amber 260 

Graham Crisps 82 

" Gems 90 

Torte 393 

Granite, Banana 366 

Granites Made with a 

Syrup 366 

Grape Conserve 306 

353 

" Juice Souffle 258 

" Marmalade 307 

Grapefruit Cocktails 255 

Green Peppers Stuffed with 

Cauliflower 332 

Green Tomatoes and Pep- 
per Relish 348 

Halibut, Baked 154 



TITLE PAGE 

Halibut, Baked, Spanish 

Style 156 

Halibut in Lemon Sauce.. 153 

Ham, Baked 227 

" , Baked, Sliced 226 

" , Kentucky 225 

, Southern 226 

Timbales 227 

Trifle 228 

Hamburg Sponge 254 

Hash in Disguise 217 

Hollandaise, Mock 164 

Hominy, Baked 324 

Hulled Corn 335 

Ice Cream, Coffee 367 

Ice Cream, Dolly Madi- 
son's 369 

Italian Polenta 325 

Ivory Cream 252 

Jam, Green Gage 307 

, Pear and Cranberry. 308 
" , " and Peach .... 308 

Jellied Oatmeal 257 

Jellies and Preserves, Just 
How to Make 297 

Jelly, Barberry 304 

" , Crab Apple 303 

*' , Green Grape Mint . . 305 

" , Orange 300 

" , Pineapple 300 

" , Pink Grape 304 

" , Purple Grape 305 

" , Quince : 304 

" , Rhubarb 299 

" , Rhubarb 304 

Johnnycake, Apple 85 

Kidney, Deviled 229 

Lamb Souffle 221 

" Timbales 2-21 

Lemon Sticks 241 

Lentil and Mushroom Cut- 
lets 321 

Lentils, Baked 320 

" , Baked, and Cheese 322 



414 



INDEX 



TITLE PAGE 

Liver with Bechamel Sauce 228 
Loaf, Roast Nut and Bar- 
ley Z23 

Luncheon, What to Serve 
for 12 

Macaroni Savory in Chaf- 
ing Dish 325 

Mackerel, Baked Salt IS5 

" , Molded 159 

Maple Cup Custard 258 

Marshmallow Filling 384 

Loaf 255 

Meat 185 

Meat Balls with Horse- 
radish Sauce 220 

Meat Loaf with Hard 

Cooked Eggs 216 

Meats, Just How to Buy.. 187 
" , Just How to Cas- 
serole 209 

Meats, Just How to Cook. 214 
" , Just How to Roast 200 
" , Moderately Quick 

Cooking 195 

Meats, Quick Cooking .... 195 
" , Ready Cooked and 

Market By-Products 199 

Meats, Slow Cooking 196 

Menus, Just How to Plan. 9 

" , Autumn 41 

" , Spring 14 

" , Summer 32 

" , Winter 56 

Mexican Delight 114 

Mincemeat without Meat. . 240 

Mint Chicken Cream 176 

Mocha Frosting 386 

Mock Beef a la Mode 331 

" Duck 219 

" Pork 333 

Mousse, Apricot 253 

" , Ginger 363 

, Mint Biscuit 362 

" , Pineapple 363 

" , Walnut 362 

Muffin, Entire Wheat or 

Graham 83 

Muffin, Raised 84 



TITLE PAGE 

Mushrooms Baked under 

Glass 326 

Mutton, Roast Leg of 220 

Noodle and Ham Pudding 227 

Oatmeal Drops 381 

Okra 332 

Omelet, Bacon and Potato 139 

" , Cereal 137 

" , Lattard 138 

" , Potato 139 

" , Rice 137 

" , Ripe Olive 140 

" , Spinach 139 

Onions and Cheese 323 

Orange Bombe Glace 367 

Orange Puffs, Orange 

Sauce 389 

Orange Surprise 260 

Orange and Grapefruit 

Cup 255 

Oysters, Broiled, a la Fran- 

gaise 160 

Oysters, Scalloped 161 

Pancakes, Entire Wheat... 84 

Parfait, Coffee 362 

" , Lemon 361 

" , Marmalade 368 

■' , Marshmallow . . . 368 

Parker House Rolls 80 

Pastry, Choux 390 

Peach Melba 254 

Peaches, Spiced 310 

'' , Sweet Pickled . . . 309 
Peanut Butter Pinwheels.. 88 

Pear Condet 258 

Pears with Ginger 305 

Peas 319 

Peas, French, Normandy 

Style 326 

Peas, Mint 331 

Pepper Hash 350 

Persian " Piloh " loi 

Peter Pans 380 

Philadelphia Scrapple .... 225 
Pickle, Mixed Mustard 350 



INDEX 



415 



TITLE PAGE 

Pickle, Ripe Tomato Sweet 351 

Pickles, East Indian 348 

Pickles, Green Tomatoes 

Sweet 349 

Pickles, Just How to 

Make 343 

Pickles, Tiny Cucumbers or 

Gherkin 347 

Pie, A Dixie Potato 292 

' , Apple 239 

' , Butterscotch 242 

' , Cream 243 

' , Date 242 

' , Mock Cherry 240 

' , Pumpkin 242 

' , Sour Cream, No. 2. . . 243 

' , Transparent 241 

Pineapple Preserved with- 
out Cooking 306 

Pineapple Turnover 243 

Planked Lake Superior 

White Fish 164 

Plum Butter 307 

" Conserve 307 

Plums, Euchred, and Pears 309 
Pork Tenderloins, Parisian, 
in the Chafing Dish .... 225 

Potato Chowder 292 

Puff 290 

Puffs 290 

Potatoes, Anna 288 

" , Apples and Sweet 293 

, Baked 287 

, Boiled 286 

" , Browned Sweet . 293 

, Chantilly 289 

" , French Fried . . . 287 
" , Fried, with Span- 
ish Sauce 291 

Potatoes, Just How to 

Cook 28s 

Potatoes. Mashed White, 

and Turnips 291 

Potatoes, Mint 291 

, Molded 290 

" , Nut-filled 289 

" , Rissolees 290 

" , Savory 287 

" , Stuffed 288 



TITLE PAGE 

Potatoes, Stuffed, with 

Cheese 289 

Potatoes, and Other Vege- 
tables 281 

Pot Roast of Beef, Just 

How to Cook 205 

Pot Roast, Epicurean .... 208 

" , Left-Over 207 

Poultry 171 

Poultry, Just How to Buy 

and Cook 173 

Princess Cream 254 

Prune Tapioca 253 

Prunes, Jellied 259 

Pudding, Apple and Bread 

Crumb 246 

Pudding, Baked Indian and 

Apple 247 

Pudding, Bread 244 

" , Brown Sugar . . . 247 
" , Caramel Bread . . 246 
Pudding, Caramelized Rice 

and Apple 105 

Pudding, Corn 323 

" , Frozen Rice .... 106 

" , Lemon 248 

" , Lemon Bread . . . 248 
" , Maple Tapioca. . 249 

" , Persimmon 250 

" , Rhubarb 244 

" , Steamed Date . . 243 

" , Suet 246 

Puree Jackson 114 

" of Tomato 118 

Ragga Muffin 82 

Raspberry Jelly 260 

Red Cabbage 332 

Rhubarb Relish (for meat 

course) 310 

Rice 95 

" , Baked loi 

" Boiled — Carolina .... 102 
" , Boiled — Japanese . . . 100 

" , Carrotina 104 

" Croquettes 107 

" Cups 104 

" , Hindu Vegetable .... 102 
" , Just How to Cook ... 96 



4i6 



INDEX 



TITLE PAGE 

Rice, Mexican loo 

" , Steamed 99 

" , Vegetarian loi 

" and Quinces, Iced 

Compete of io6 

Rice and Sausage, Baked. . 103 
" with Tomato and 

Cheese 329 

Rolls, Raised Split 83 

Rough Robin 86 

Royal Cream 256 

Salad, Beet and Pepper . . . 270 

" , Cabbage 271 

" , Cherry 273 

" , Cleveland 271 

" , Crab Meat 274 

" , Cucumber Jelly .... 269 

" , Grape 273 

" , Hawaiian 272 

" , Jellied Chicken and 

Egg 267 

Salad, Okra 270 

" , Oyster 275 

" , Pineapple 272 

" , Pond Lily 274 

" , Potato and Tomato. 269 

" , Red Pepper 269 

" , Red and White Cur- 
rant and Raspberry 274 

Salad, Roast Beef 268 

" , Salmon 158 

" , Salmon Jelly 157 

" , Sardine . . . . ; 275 

" , Spinach 268 

" , Stuffed Egg 267 

" , Tomato Jelly 270 

" , Waldorf 271 

Salads 265 

Sally Lunn 82 

Sally Lunns 89 

Salmon, Parisian 158 

, Planked, with Po- 
tato Balls 15s 

Salmon Shells 157 

Sandwiches, Jellied Chicken 178 
" , Roquefort . . . 277 

Sauce, Almond 246 

" , Chili 351 



TITLE PAGE 

Sauce, Creamy 251 

" , Currant Mint 231 

" , Drawn Butter 163 

" , Foamy Pudding . . . 250 

" , Hollandaise 163 

" , Horseradish 231 

" , Lobster 163 

" , Maple Hard 251 

" , Marshmallow 368 

" , Mexican 217 

" , Nut Cream 250 

" , Orange 390 

" , Ripe Olive 140 

" , White Mushroom . . 181 
" for Suet Pudding . . 246 

Sausage Bundles 228 

Sherbert, Mint Fruit 369 

Short Bread, Rich 381 

Shrimps, Savory, in Chafing 

Dish 161 

Sillabub 251 

Souffle Tin, To Prepare a 248 

Soup, Black Bean 330 

" , Crab, a la Maryland 117 
" , Cream of Celery .... 119 

" , Cream of Corn 119 

" , Cream of Fish 160 

" , Cream of Lettuce, ..116 

" , Cream of Rice 103 

" , Creole 115 

" , East Indian 105 

" , Lentil and Tomato. 117 

" , Mock Oyster 118 

" , Mushroom 113 

" , Southern Tomato ... 116 

'' , Spanish 115 

" , Swedish Fish 117 

" , White 115 

Soups Ill 

Spaghetti 325 

Spare-ribs stuffed with ap- 
ples and prunes 224 

Spider Corn Cake 91 

Spinach 318 

Squash, Steamed in Shell . 335 

" , Summer 327 

Steak, Flank, with Onions. 216 

" , Swiss 215 

Stock, Vegetable 114 



INDEX 



417 



TITLE PAGE 

Strawberry Charlotte 259 

Compote 259 

Shortcake, 

Grandmother's 245 

Stuffed Green Peppers (or 

Mangoes) 349 

Stuffing 179 

Summer Hot Pot 334 

Supper, What to Serve 

for 14 

Sweetbreads, Masked .... 229 
Sweet Potatoes, Scalloped . 292 

Thanksgiving Brambles . . . 241 
Tomato Catsup (uncooked) 350 

" Curry 328 

Rabbit 329 

Sweets, yellow tgg 352 

Tomatoes a la Tom 328 

Tomatoes, Smothered 328 

Tongue, Braised 231 



TITLE PAGE 

Turkey, Roast, Chestnut 

Stuffing 177 

Turkey, Wild 175 

Veal, Casseroled 212 

, Bavarian, Chops . . . 222 

, Creamed 223 

^" Cutlet, Baked 222 

Dandy 223 

Loaf 224 

Paprika 223 

, Sour Cream Gravy. 221 
Vegetables, Just How to 
Cook 317 

Wafers, Chocolate Nut .... 392 
Waffles, Rice, with Maple 

Syrup 249 

Waffles, Sweet Potato 293 

Watermelon Rind, P r e - 

served 352 



